"The budget should be balanced, the Treasury should be refilled, public debt should be reduced, the arrogance of officialdom should be tempered and controlled, and the assistance to foreign lands should be curtailed lest Rome become bankrupt. People must again learn to work, instead of living on public assistance." Cicero - 55 BC
..... The NDP approach: if the facts don't fit your ideology, just pretend the facts don't exist.......
It should be fairly easy to tell if something is out of alignment with the rail on that setup. Sight down the rail or hold a straight edge to it to see if there is a bend or kink in it where the handguard attaches to the receiver. If the rail is one continuous straight line then measure the distance from the barrel to the handguard where the barrel exits the handguard. The barrel should exit dead center. With a rail that long if something is cockeyed it should stand out if it's not true to the bore.
Where are you located?
When you're max to the left, loosen the cap screw, lift it up a bit and turn it to the right all the way making sure the bottom part doesn't turn.
Then try zeroing again without paying attention to what you're seeing on the turret itself.
Once you're satisfy with you zero, loosen the top screw again, then turn the cap to line the 0 mark with the bottom part.
Push it down and tighten the screw gently.
That should solve the issue.
If that's not an option or doesn't work, check the followings:
- You may have defective scope.
- Your un-intentional compensation when pulling the trigger or bad flinching habit.
If none of the above works, find another hobby
The only advantage to a light rifle is it's weight, all other advantages go to the heavier rifle..
That will do nothing. Optics are built with a maximum internal adjustment, changing the elevation dial to zero wont change your total erector tube travel. Unless I'm mistaken, the M-308 only has a zero reset feature, not a zero stop.
Troy makes quality stuff and I have a hard time believing the picatinny rail on the upper is to blame, but weirder things has happened...
I wouldn't bother messing around with anything else until you can verify erector tube movement within the scope. Get a bore sighter, or use a grid target and a fixture to hold you rifle down securely and watch for movement. That alone will tell you whether the problem lies within the scopes traveling assembly, or in the mounting hardware. My money is on the mounting hardware.
I had a Remington 700 I could not bore sight, I could not bring the reticle over far enough. It had weaver bases, Leupold PRW rings and was holding on a Leupold VX-3. Bought brand new (but exactly the same) weaver bases and that solved that.
Hunt Hard, Hunt safe, Eat Well.Originally posted by MEATEATER
If anyone says blacktails there lying no one can figure them out
Did you torque your scope rings or just tighten them up? Recently had a buddy with a similar problem and he had his scope rings way too tight not allowing anything to move inside.