arrow spline

[cblock]

so, I recently got a PSE rogue x, the 08 model.
its a great bow, seem quite fast too.
anyways, before I got the bow I had bought some new arrows and realized after I got home they were a little heavy for my draw weight.
now I had the bow set to 65# but at the moment I cant really pull that back, so I back it off to about 60#. ( turned the bolts about 4 revolutions)

now the arrows I got they are carbon hunter 75-90.
great arrows, but im thinking they are a bit much for the bow.

I was wondering other then a slower arrow speed, what other things would happen with over spine arrows?

[Bowzone_Mikey]

first off its Spine ...like your back bone ...not spline

they might be a little stiff ..it depends on how long the arrow is, how heavy of a point you have on them ...

Arrows are ment to flex abit when they come off the bow ...not to the point of a wet noodle nor should they rock stiff either

the best way know is to see them fly ... Try shooting through a sheet of paper ... I will try to paper tuning chart ....and post it up

one way to weaken your arrow spine is to put a heavier tip ... for ex: if you have 100 grain FP, put on a 125 grain point

try this link for info

http://www.papertuning.com/

[cblock]

ok thanks, ya i realized it was spine, after the fact. haha.
anyways, I have watched them in flight, they dont seem to bad, but ill check that link.
the arrows are 29" and 100grain field points

[Jonas111]

I myself don't believe in paper tuning. There is way too many variables that can make your paper tuning turn into a nightmare. Variables being, How far away do you put the paper? Does the arrow flex properly at that distance?

Go to you tube and watch a slow motion video of a carbon arrow after it leaves the bow. It is constantly flexing the whole way to the target. Now imagine that shooting through paper and it being consistent tares at certain distances.

There is software you can buy for like $25 that will help you with arrow spine. You can also drive your self crazy trying to get the perfect arrow. Kind of like I am doing right now. I would look up what it recommends on the arrow manufacturers website and go with that particular spine arrow for yourself.

Then once you have the proper arrow spine don't cut your arrow too short, it stiffens the arrow up and then alters your spine again. I have a 27DL and my arrows are 29" long. That is just the shafts not including tips and knocks. I am shooting 60lbs, CXL SS 250 with 75 gr tip. My total weight with fletching and everything is 323 gr with an FOC of 11%. These arrows shoot the best out of my target bow.

Don't over read into arrows and if you want to set up your bow, do walk back tuning. Punch it on google and you will see quickly what to do. That is all I ever do with my bows and it works. The paper tuning has lead me in all kinds of different directions.

Good luck

[Bow Walker]

Jonas111 - arrow tuning is not difficult or mystical. Paper tuning, when done with an arrow that shoots pretty well out of your set up, only fine-tunes your arrow rest and/or your nocking point.

The paper is setup approximately 15 feet in front of the shooter and only about 10 feet from the target. The flex of the arrow as it leaves the bow does not come into play at all. Seems like it would - but it doesn't.

Left or right tears mean an adjustment to your arrow rest. Up or down tears mean an adjustment to your nocking point. It's easy and it goes quickly.

In your case, you could be using a much shorter arrow shaft - and consequently you could drop down to the next weaker spine - while picking up a whole shite-load of speed. It's all in the tuning and how long you cut that weaker shaft.

If you're using a drop away rest that is mounted 2" to 3" behind the Berger hole, your arrow shafts could conceivably be cut down to 25" or 26" while still maintaining the proper spine for your setup.

There's no need to be shooting targets with arrows that resemble ski poles when a properly tuned/built arrow will do the job much better and a hellova lot faster.

Hunting is a slightly different matter, as a higher KE is preferable. Try it. You'll like it.

[Jonas111]

Please don't get me wrong, all I am trying to say is that paper tuning is for the fine tuning of a bow. It is not necessary. I know some may not agree but for the average shooter out there you don't need to paper tune.

A simple walk back tuning would adjust your rest to the right spot in minutes. It is simple and easy and I like the KISS method.

I do paper tune my arrows but only the arrows that I use for target only. I want those arrows to fly perfect so I spend the extra time on them.

Thanks for your post, I keep learning more and more everyday.

[Onesock]

If you shoot broadheads paper tuning is a must.

[Bowzone_Mikey]

If you shoot broadheads paper tuning is a must.

Yep ...

also if people actually understood what happens to an arrow in flight ... ie: flexing ... they would see paper tuning as an invaluble tool

Paper tuning proves that your center shot is on , nock point is set and arrow is spined properly .... by showing that your arrow isnt skidding through the air ... however if its just flexing through the air(correct spine) it will settle at 3 yards off the bow and shoot good through the paper

[hardnocks]

I agree with jonas i don`t paper tune . i just find their are better ways to arrive at the same place.

[Ruger4]

I agree with jonas i don`t paper tune . i just find their are better ways to arrive at the same place.

walk back is a better way of tuning imo , I'd have to agree with Jonas and Hardnocks as well