I'm just getting back into bow hunting ,I picked up a second hand Darton bow .I have it driving tacks with field points.I tried a 125 gr. muzzy practice broad head and it is shooting low and left .Any help will be greatly appreciated .
I'm just getting back into bow hunting ,I picked up a second hand Darton bow .I have it driving tacks with field points.I tried a 125 gr. muzzy practice broad head and it is shooting low and left .Any help will be greatly appreciated .
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Is it paper tuned?
Kirby
Huuked on foniks wurked fur me
Originally Posted by StoneChaser
If your cams are timed correctly and your bow is tuned correctly and it still doesnt shoot bheads the same as FP's...
1. Make sure you are shooting a properly spined arrow
2. Make sure you are shooting the same grains as your field points.
3. Make sure your broadheads dont wobble when you spin test them
then move your rest in micro adjustments untill the bheads are hitting the same spot as your FP's. In your case you would move your arrow rest low and left a hair. then re sight in your pins and your field tips and Bheads should be at the same place.
"Using your legs to go up a road is called walking, not hiking and if you have a gun over your shoulder or a bow in hand it's called road hunting."
-Goat Guy. Dec 3/09.
I will definitely give this a try ,I have found some info on the web . I had a buddy in Ft.Mc Murray time it after he put in a different module.The arrows should be the right spine and the field points and Bheads are the same grain . I am sure I will be back asking more questions
Proper spine and properly aligned heads-inserts-shafts are critical. So is spin testing to check if everything is square and in line.
Good luck and check back to let us know how you're making out.
what kind of fletching are you using? is it helical or straight ... what BH are are you using .. are the blades straight or offset. If your fletches are at 2 degree offset and you blades are straight ... they will fight one another in flight ...
Without actually seeing your setup I would venture a guess that your vanes are too small to stabilize your head .... Probally shooting a 3 " vanes ... try a 4 or 5" ...you will lose a bit of speed but gain alot in accuracy
I have had this discussion with a few knowledgeable archers/bow hunters and they claim trying to get the broad head to shoot the same as a field point is, in some cases, an unrealistic goal. Some archers/bow hunters have two sights, one for field points and one for broad heads. If my arrows are flying fine then I move my sight to zero in the broad head.
If your arrows are flying well and drop in a relatively straight line as you increase the distance then your bow is fairly well tuned.
You can always practice during the summer with field tips, then re-sight in for BH- in theory you should be able to get them to hit the same, but it can be frustrating event if you're not being helped by a pro. Also, pay close attention to your broadhead blades- many of them will be slightly bent after hitting a target only a few times. I know I'll catch some flack for this comment, but a mechanical, if legal in your area, will fly like a field point. And,with a well placed shot, they kill just like any other head. But, we've all made poor shots in our lives, and there's no doubt I'd rather be tracking a poorly hit animal with a muzzy in him than a mechanical.
delettteeedd
Last edited by Derek_Erickson; 03-26-2008 at 08:45 PM.
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