50lbs vs 60 at different yardages

[Mike26]

So right now I have my bow set to 50lbs while i get used to it and using different techniques. What I would like to know is what kind of difference would going up the 10lbs make to my sights at different yardages. I have a really good grouping at 10 and 20 yards right now 30 yards is good, 40 yards has room for improvement and 50 yards is kind of all over the map, but low, I still have to adjust my sight but won't make a difference for the side to side.
thanks for your help

[TheProvider]

Your pins should get closer togeather and you;ll have to adjust your sites seeing how raising your bow weight will raise the speed resulting in your arrow hitting higher. Also makesure once you raise your bow weight that your arrows are still the proper spine

[Mike26]

Your pins should get closer togeather and you;ll have to adjust your sites seeing how raising your bow weight will raise the speed resulting in your arrow hitting higher. Also makesure once you raise your bow weight that your arrows are still the proper spine

Thank you, my arrows were selected with the notion I would be setting the bow to 60lbs, so it sounds as if I shouldn't be so concerned with sighting it in as much as I should be with control to keep tight groupings, and worry more about sighting in once I get it tuned up to 60lbs.

[TheProvider]

You should still sight it in properly, it'll only take a few mins to adjust your pins vertically. Tighter groups will come thru practice and better form.

[Eagle1]

at 20 and posably 30 the pins won't move much, but out farther they should get a little closer than they are now.
once you get to 60lbs make sure you resight, won't take long, cause at longer distances you will be shooting high and that could mean right over the top of " Mr big"
No matter the draw weight always , always try to to shoot to the best of your ability.

[Bow Walker]

Like they said, pin gaps will tighten up a bit. By the way you describe your current groupings it sounds like the little movements in your bow hand are affecting the point of impact.

Trying to hold the pin steady on the bullseye at any distance usually results in more pin movement rather than less. Grip the bow lightly, the pressure from drawing will hold it firmly in your hand and the wrist strap will keep it there after the shot.

Don't concentrate on the pin - concentrate on bullseye or the tiny spot that you intend the arrow to hit, the pin will naturally follow your eye. I do what I term as a "drive-by-shooting". I know that if I try to keep the pin on the exact spot I want to hit the damned thing will jump and jitter all over. So I let the pin "float" over the bullseye - sorta like a gentle figure '8' - and the release "just happens". This method has not won me any championships or medals but it has put a fair number of deer into the freezer.

There are quite a number of ways of aiming. The trick is to find the one that works for you. I hope BZM can add some comments on the art of aiming and releasing. Oh, by the way, I am not a proponent of back-tension releases for use when hunting. I don't use one for target or 3D either. I use a Fletch Hook release and I gently squeeze the trigger - I don't jerk it. Firing a trigger release is just like shooting a rifle, you got to slowly squeeze rather than pulling or jerking the trigger.

[Jim Prawn]

Keep in mind that your arrow will be losing energy fast after 40 yards and any bone in the way at 50 yards or more could easily lead to a lost animal. I'm a bit old fashioned but 35 yards was my limit with my old compound. Even with my new excalibur crossbow at 225 lbs/350 fps with a scope (yeah I know its not really bow hunting - but its legal!) 50 yards is my max. Certainly if you were to chase anything bigger than an island deer, be careful.
JP