WTF did this guy do to me?

[The Silent Stalker]

Calling all archers! I am new to archery this year, and have been having a lot of fun with it. I had a new peep sight installed last week, at one of the archery shops in the lower mainland. They seemed very cool and helpful and even looked at my stance and shot. This is where I got screwed. I have been shooting good groups until then, but they said my stance and anchor points were wrong. Now, I seem to have my string pushed into my face, my nose just touching the string and my release is now sitting almost at my middle knuckle on my index finger. I had to completely move my pins, as I had to move the new peep up the string to see through it. It didn't take to long to get my 20yrd back. At 30yrd, I'm shooting 10 -12inches high, and now my pin is getting real close to the 20yrd pin. There is no room for a 25yrd pin now, and my 40 is shooting pretty close, and not even close to my top two pins. I tried everything I could but now I'm frustrated. If I split the difference with my 30pin, I'm shooting way high(10-12") My draw does not feel comfortable anymore, it feels as if it is too short now. Please if anyone has any ideas or suggestions I would really appreciate it. I was shooting better groups before I had anyone help me. Im really confused. Please help. Thanks.:-?

[Bow Walker]

A few questions first.

Where are you? - maybe someone can meet up with you and help you in person.

What are you shooting? - bow details, sight details, etc.

Have you measured your wingspan and divided by 2.5? - this will give you a close idea of what your draw length should be.

After you have answered the above questions we will have more info from which to base our advice.

[The Silent Stalker]

I'm in Squamish, shooting a new Bear Attack(I love it). I have measured my wings span and divided by 2. I have a TrU GLO 4 pins sight(came with bow) I am looking at putting a spot hog on it soon.

[Ike]

It is hard say much based on your first post.
The best approach would be for you to post a photo or two of your shooting stance at full draw so we can take a look. Ideally post one of your old style and one of your new style. (Remember to nock an arrow with safe backstop to avoid potential for a dryfire)

there are a few different forms that work, but if your original form was bad it is better in the long run to suffer now to learn proper form (I went through the same thing).
Cheers

[BC Boy]

Hi, I'm in Squamish also, I might be able to help you out. I've set up quite a few bows and have helped a few of my friends out with some form issues. If you need a hand let me know, I could meet you at the rod and gun and get you fixed up. Derrick.

[Rectifier]

Must be a new archer if you're complaining your pins are too close together! That's a good thing. Means you don't need that 25 yard pin anymore. Go 20-30-40-50 for now. You have to learn to eyeball between the pins, 5yd spacing is really tight and all you will see is pins, not deer! Remember the space between the pins is not linear either, halfway between the 20 and 30 is not 25 - it depends on the shape of your arc.

Your bow may have been set too short for you the whole time, with a form that made it feel the right length. That is the most logical explanation I see. Now you can go to a longer draw length and get more energy out of your draw. Best of luck

[The Silent Stalker]

Hey Derrick, I am waiting to renew my membership at the club and should have it this week I hope. I will let you know when I can go back and then I will take you up on the offer. Then I'll buy you a beer. Thanks.
Toby

[The Silent Stalker]

Just a quick note to all of you, I like this site and appreciate all the help and tips i get from everyone. There are no stupid questions, just stupid answers. Thanks guys.

[dutchie]

I am rather new to shooting a bow(with in the last 1 year) and one thing that I have learned is really listen to archers that know what they are talking about. In order for you to know what they are talking about you need to do some learning yourself.

For me, I am shooting a PSE Evo, Code Red rest (soon to be sizzor again) and G5 Sight.

My anchor points are index and middle knuckle placed on the back of my jaw. resting the valley of my knuckles in the back point of the jaw, and my second anchor point is the crease in my nose placed on the string with very light pressure.

Make sure that you can see just the circle of the sight... mine has a white line, my dads has a bright orange line around the perimeter of the sight.

possibly the most important information that I got while at a bow hunting seminar is draw high of the target (only a foot or 2) and then make sure your level is... well level. Then when it is level you can start to drop to your target and stop at the spot and squeeze your fist and your release will let go.

As for my release I have it set so the trigger falls into the first crease of my finger (directly under the knuckle). I do this so I have more control of the shot. when I draw the bow I will get about 3/4" of stretch in the release and will bring it to the perfect firing position... for me that is.

Every person is going to have their perfect way to shoot... what you need to do is find what way is the best for you... this may be exactly how I shoot... maybe it is exactly how Bowwalker shoots... possible a combination of them all...

the biggest trick is to find what is best for you and always keep learning and asking questions to expand the knowledge base.

Archerytalk.com is also a very good site to read up on info. Lots of extremely knowledgeable guys on there. and thre are about 100,000 members.

Dutchie

[The Silent Stalker]

Dutchie, thanks. I was playing with my bow last night and think I am more comfortable when I put my trigger in the 1st knuckle on my index, not my 2nd knuckle. This also gives me just that little more draw that I feel I was missing. I am going to shoot for an hour or so later today and see what I can do. I am going to look for a bear with a buddy, but think I'll be leaving my bow at home until I am 100% sure my bow shoots the way I want. I have already lost a bear with a great shot placement this year so I'm not risking taking a poor shot. I will let you all know where it stands later and even try to post some pics of what I'm doing.
Thanks.

[Bow Walker]

Well - for starters, the string touching your nose is the way it's supposed to be all things being equal with your shooting form. As has been said – it’s an important anchor point to some.

Having the release head resting in the palm of your hand with the head touching the middle knuckle of the index finger is good too. Saves you having to 'reach forward' to let the shot off when you're at full draw. The knuckle of your release hand index finger should be tucked into the 'hole' just under your ear lobe - and it should stay there all during the shot cycle.

Draw your bow back, keeping your eyes closed, and settle into your comfortable shooting form. Keep that knuckle tucked into that 'hole'. When you are settled into your shooting form, with your head held urpright and relaxed - open your aiming eye. Are you looking right through the peep? If not - move the peep until you are. Don't move your head to find the peep aperture, instead, move the peep up or down on the string until you're looking through it with your head in a normal position.

Now you are ready to start moving the sight housing left or right to line the pins up with the center of your rest - the center of the string - and the center of the arrow that's sitting on your rest like it was at full draw. Once everything is in line you have established a working point for what is called "center shot" - critical for consistent shooting and accuracy.

OK – now you’re ready to start sighting in your pins. You don’t want them too close together. Makes it very hard to pick out a single pin “in the heat of the moment”. As mentioned 20, 30, 40, 50 yards is a good span. Anything between 10 and 20 yards is sighted using the 20 yard pin. “Pin-gapping” will become second nature as you get familiar and comfortable with how you bow shoots.

Hopefully this has helped. Good luck.




p.s.
take advantage of BC Boy's offer.

[Bow Walker]

I just had a thought - after thinking about the title for this thread.......

Whoever "did this to you" probably is setting you on the correct path to consistent, accurate shooting.

[BC Boy]

I havn't renewed my membership yet either, sent me a pm when you get yours and we can meet up, i'd be happy to help you out. Derrick.

[Ike]

There has been a lot of good advice here so far.

One really important thing to be aware of if you decide to keep your release with the first knuckle like a rifle, is the potential to 'punch' the trigger and in a worst case, develop target panic. The shot should come as a surprise break, a conscious rifle like trigger pull makes it easy to anticipate the trigger, punch it and flinch on the shot - none of these are good for accuracy.

EDITED TO ADD: Another advantage of the 2nd knuckle style is that it makes it easy to put your figer behind the trigger to act like a safety when you are drawing the bow.

Cheers

[Bow Walker]

I've never had a problem with a rifle-style trigger release being "punched" or anticipating the shot and flinching.

I prefer to let the shot go when I want it to go - not be surprised by the release.

As for flinching at the shot? the release is smooth and easy with no 'recoil' so why flinch?

Maybe I'm just different...

Taht advice about curling your finger behind the trigger until you are at full draw is invaluable. It will prevent any premature ejaculations.