Broadhead frustration!!!!!!

[Dale]

I cannot get my broadheads to group at all except at very close range (20 yrds). They are all over the place. I can group my fields tips all day long, but with these broadheads I'm pulling my hair out!! I am shooting a bowtech admiral at 70lbs. Trying to use 100gr fixed montec broadheads. Arrows are 340gr Easton ST Excel. I was told that my arrows may not have enough spine. Does this mean I need to go to a heavier grain arrow? Someone please help!!!! Thanks in advance.

[The Hermit]

What size fletching are you using? Would a larger fletch help straighten it out faster? I've always had good luck with Montecs. The new PX2's fly great too!

[Dale]

I'm shooting a 4 inch fletching. That is all I've heard is that Montecs are good shooters. I guess its back to the drawing board :/

[knockturnal]

how long are your arrows? whats the gpi of your arrows? whats the spine rating of your arrows? whats the overall weight of your arrows? need more info to help.

[knockturnal]

first off, your arrow is 9.5 gpi. that 340 number on your arrow is just the spine designation. forget about that number for now. what we need is your arrow length. when i get that, it will be easy to tell whats going on.

[Bowzone_Mikey]

if your FPs are grouping well at distance and they are 100 grain as well ... then I would suspect your problem is one of 3 things ...1: Squareness of your arrows ... if your business end is a little off then the BHs will try to direct the arrow a bit ... 2:your fletching is not at the same angle as your blades ..ie: your blades are at 4 degrees and your fletching is straight (just a random # as I dont recall the Montecs offset at the moment) .. they will fight one another in flight or 3: The problem is your head on your shoulders ...mentally .. you could be peeking , triing extra hard and putting tourqe on your bow inadvertantly or any other number of issues ....

Personally I would check the flecthing angle in comparison to to the Broadheads first as its the easiest to fix by just re-fletching

[Slugman]

Several good tips here already. Assuming the FP is the same weight as your Montecs then spine is not the issue. Montec blades have no offset or degree of angle to them so fletched straight or helical in relation to this wont factor in. It is however good to go with a helical orientation to impart more stabilizing spin for better accuracy with broadheads, as a broadheads greater surface area will compete with the vanes on your arrow. Most store bought pre-made arrows typically have a straight fletched arrow with a 2 degree offset which is great for FP not so good for a broadhead like a Montec. Heres what I would recommend for you -
1) Spin test your set up to see just how square and true your broadhead to arrow connection is - ie - no wobble
2) Check the type of fletching set up you have - helical will help stabilize your arrow more effectivley(2" High Profiles are more than enough
3) Calculate your Front of Center numbers. Good FOC of 12% and much higher makes it easier for the vanes to do their work. FP arrows generally fly well with a lot less FOC. Heres a FOC Calculator - http://archeryreport.com/calculators.html
4) Double check your bow for minor tuning issues - do your FP arrows hit the target dead straight or tail ever so slightly left or right, nock high or nock low? A broadhead will magnify even slight flight issues.
Although its great to have zero adjustments to be made its good to anticipate some minor adjustments to be made to both rest and sights to get both FP and broadheads to group as closely together as possiable. As mentioned already sometimes its best not to shoot for hours trying to dial it in as in archery often times it could very well be some form issue that could be creeping in with the frustration and a little shooting fatigue! Re-visit it later and check the above basics and it will likely turn out to be something simple! Hope this helps.

[Ddog]

best tip: go to MECHANICAL BROADHEADS such as spitfire or grimreapers, just give em a try

[Bow Walker]

Mikey and Slugman have given you good advice. Check out their tips.

The most important thing that I can say is to spin-test your arrows with the both filed tips and then with the broadheads. The arrows should spin true as Slugman advises.

It is critical to have all parts of your arrow mated properly. If each component isn't true to the shaft, then the whole arrow won't fly properly. The shaft should be cut square. The insert should fit square tot he shaft. The end of the insert should be square. The broadhead itself should fit square to the insert.

The nock end of the shaft should be cut square. The nock should fit square to the shaft. If you use something like Gold Tip's pin-nock system, both the bushing and the nock should fit square - the bushing square to the shaft, and the nock set tight tot he pin and seated properly on the bushing.

The best investment that you can make are a couple of simple tools that you can use at home. Get your arrow shafts cut to length then use the G5 ASD (arrow squaring device) on both ends of the shaft and on the end of the insert as well.

Then use the Pine Ridge Arrow tester/Spinner to check whether or not your arrows are spinning true. If they aren't - just unscrew the b'head and either try a different one or re-position the head on the insert until it spins properly.

ARROW SQUARING DEVICE
http://www.huntingbc.ca/photos/data/500/ASD.jpg



ARROW TESTER/SPINNER
http://www.huntingbc.ca/photos/data/500/medium/Pine_Ridge_Arrow_Spinner1.jpg (http://javascript<b></b>:;)

My fletching has never "matched" my broadheads. It's a non-issue with today's open-style broadheads. When I finish tuning my hunting arrows and I go test them at the range (in the broadhead shooting area) I can get them to hit a hanging plastic water bottle from 50 yards - consistently. Not bragging. It's just a fact.

[StoneChaser]

Maybe I've just been lucky, but I found that a well tuned bow (paper tuned and then walk back tuned with field points), will stick the broadheads right with the field points (a chopped up shaft made me quit grouping broadheads real fast).

I've tried Slick Tricks, Montecs, Rage and yesterday for kicks, a big 2 blade 125gr Magnus that my buddy JB'd on a modified field point......broadhead weighed over 200gr and spun somewhat poorly (I was doing a penetration test, so put it on my worst spinning arrow in case of damage).

Oddly enough, even that arrow hit right with the others at 20, and in line but low out to 50 yards (100gr Heavier).

It flew as true as the others (my traditional shooting buddy was amazed that the little 2" helical blazers could do that).

My point is, a well tuned bow seems to really shoot broadheads well.

Have you walkback tuned yours?

As a last resort, have you tried another head (Slick Tricks are great flyers)

Something else to try in the name of science would be different vanes (helical Blazers).

Good luck.

[Bow Walker]

Yup. Great advice.

First off you need a bow that is tuned. Not just shooting pretty good.

There are a few simple tools that you can get to help you in tuning your bow at home. One of the better ones is a set of these levels - one for the arrow and one for the string.
http://www.huntingbc.ca/photos/data/500/RSA016.jpg

The string level shows you that your bow is level in the bow vise, and the other one is critical in setting up a drop away arrow rest (it's also a great tool for setting a nocking point as well).

Slick Trick broadheads are great - I've taken all my deer with them. One thing though - they can be tricky (no pun intended) to set up so that they spin true. They have a metal washer that locks the blades into place on the ferrule, and that washer can cause the head to be a P.I.A. to get to spin true. It takes a bit of trial and error, but when you're successful those heads are deadly.

[rattling_junkie]

best tip: go to MECHANICAL BROADHEADS such as spitfire or grimreapers, just give em a try
Obviously by your statement you are new to bowhunting.

Like most have been writing make sure your bow is tuned. Twisting strings, moving rest, squaring arrows, proper spined arrows, proper fletch, etc. are all elements you need to take into consideration.

[afflicted 1]

based on your draw weight being 60-70 and your arrow length not being exceptionally long they should group fine. paper tune and try again then slightly move your rest left/right to further tighten your groups.