arrow weight?

[nieves]

heres a noob question about target shooting arrows and the broadheads for hunting...

do they weigh the same?? just wondering if i get used to shooting target/practice arrows, will it feel all wonky when i go for a hunt with broadheads? does it just depend on the type/quality of the arrows i get?

its just something i was thinking about today :P

tx for any help!

nieves

[Jagermeister]

They can be of different weight, but that would be not a good idea. You should shoot the same weight whether target or hunting. Be more concerned about keeping the total arrow weight above the minimum recommended for the bow your shooting. Shooting an arrow with a less than recommended weight has the same effect as dry-firing.

[nieves]

They can be of different weight, but that would be not a good idea. You should shoot the same weight whether target or hunting. Be more concerned about keeping the total arrow weight above the minimum recommended for the bow your shooting. Shooting an arrow with a less than recommended weight has the same effect as dry-firing.


tx jag :P and ill keep that in mind about the minimum weight.. i didnt know that!!

[Jagermeister]

tx jag :P and ill keep that in mind about the minimum weight.. i didnt know that!!The arrow minimum grains should be indicated on your bow, likely on the lower limb where the bow weight and drawlength are found. Not all bows will have that information for one reason or another.
There are formulas for calculating the minimum grains per arrow, I'm sure an internet search would reveal that.

[seanfalloy]

I was just playing with this last night. Really nice (and seemingly accurate) archery calculator

http://backcountrybowhunting.com/articles/calc/

I have only been shooting for a year but from what i can gather your arrow weight should be geared towards speed if you want to only shoot targets and if your going to hunt maybe go with a bit heavier arrow to retain the energy upon impact. BUT always use the same arrows you practice with otherwise you will not know where they are going to hit

Also get arrows Spined for your draw weight ( I shoot Xweave 300 at 70 lbs and my buddy shoots Xweave 200 at 60lbs ) If they are over-spined you wont get the speed or flex needed on release and if they are under-spined they can flex to much and break. I have heard stories of broken arrows going through the bow hand's wrist due to damage and to light of arrows

[nieves]

BUT always use the same arrows you practice with otherwise you will not know where they are going to hit


that was exactly what i had thought would happen but seeing as i dont even have a bow yet (REAL beginner:P ) and im still trying to read on up on things, i thot id ask :P

tx guys for the info :D

heres another question!

is it better to just bite the bullet (arrow?? lol) on price and get a new bow or how reliable are used ones? i guess kinda obvious once i typed that one out... hehe

[seanfalloy]

I haven't bought a new bow yet ( tomorow im buying a used PSE treestand GX ). I know alot of people with used bows as well as new bows. I dont need the "top of the line" speed that they boast every year so ill buy used ones at usually half the cost and still be very happy with it

The most important thing is that the bow "fits" you ( eg draw length, weight, balance ect... ) I would suggest going to an archery shop (not a big box sporting goods store) but a place where they live breath and shoot bows. They usually have good used deals as well as alot of information on form and little tips about things to watch out for that you will never get anywhere else. Personally I go to Boormans Archery in New West they know their stuff.

And dont ever be afraid to ask for tips.. Archers are generally quite friendly people

[nieves]

i would love to go to new west.. but its a ferry away!! lol

i tried some training bows with Hermit and TRIED his 60# draw one.. hahaha now that was funny.. he had to help me with it then it suck out like 10 inches past my face, no way that was my fit! lol but made for some good laughs :P

i read here ppl saying to go to places where you can try out their bows, and im assuming that means to actually shoot them? or is it just to get a feel? cuz the only place i know of here is island outfitters and i dont think u can shoot them heehee
if it were up to me i would love to shoot a few different kinds but not sure if thats how things are done or what :???:

other then that i think theres the malahat range but i dont have any bows of my own to try out! lol

[seanfalloy]

Ya I usually like to let a few arrows go before i commit to buying something just to get a feel for the balance of the bow on release. I dont know if Island outfitters would let you or not. I know back home in smithers there is a small shop run out of a guys basement that has alot of gear and you can shoot and try different configurations before you buy maybe you might have some luck finding one on the island like that.

I can ask around at Boormans tomorrow when I go there and see if they know of anyone on the island.
I know DarkHorse arrows are made over there and sold through Vantage Point Outfitters (Victoria) so that might be a good place to look.

[nieves]

I can ask around at Boormans tomorrow when I go there and see if they know of anyone on the island.
I know DarkHorse arrows are made over there and sold through Vantage Point Outfitters (Victoria) so that might be a good place to look.

haha ya vantage point is with the Hermit :D and i know ill be getting my arrows from him :P hes a great guy and awesome teacher!
ill have to ask island outfitters if they offer something like that , cuz i think it would really help me learn waht i want :P

[Bow Walker]

nieves - if you're shooting the same bow for both target and hunting then you would be best served by keeping your arrow weights, your tip weights, and your fletching all the same, for both disciplines.

Bucky's Sports in Duncan has quiote a few bows - and you can shoot them to see how they fee for you. Give Richard a call and arrange a time that's good for you (and for him).

[nieves]

tx bow walker :P i will have to keep him in mind, unfortunately im vehicle-less right now so unless i bike there, i prob cant make it out any time soon :( (which ive done actually! just catch the mill bay ferry and 1 hr bike ride later.. duncansville :D )

not having a vehicle is very limiting..:icon_frow:cry:

but im still gonna do my online homework and get myself organized for when i can get around :P

[Bow Walker]

Been there (vehicle-less), it's a major P.I.A. Tons of stuff comes up that requires a vehicle when you're in that position. Murphy's Law.

When I was using my hunting bow for both 3D and for hunting I was careful to keep my arrows exactly the same. Same length, same spine, same fletching, same weight on the tips, and same nocks. That way, while shooting in 3D competitions it was great practice for hunting.

I shoot 100 grain broadheads, so I shoot 100 grain target (or field) tips. The arrow flight and dynamics are identical for both hunting and 3D. All I have to do is to make sure my hunting arrows spin true (with no wobble at all) and my broadheads hit where my field tips do.

Once that happens you can shoot to kill, knowing that your arrow will go where you are aiming. You won't have to worry about a different point of impact between your target arrows and your hunting arrows.

I bought an arrow spinner/inspector made by Pine Ridge. It was inexpensive and it works great. I spin the arrows and check the nock end plus the business end - making sure that there is no wobble at all.

http://www.huntingbc.ca/photos/data/500/Pine_Ridge_Arrow_Spinner1.jpg (http://www.huntingbc.ca/photos/showphoto.php?photo=20306&ppuser=529)

[knockturnal]

I was just playing with this last night. Really nice (and seemingly accurate) archery calculator

http://backcountrybowhunting.com/articles/calc/

I have only been shooting for a year but from what i can gather your arrow weight should be geared towards speed if you want to only shoot targets and if your going to hunt maybe go with a bit heavier arrow to retain the energy upon impact. BUT always use the same arrows you practice with otherwise you will not know where they are going to hit

Also get arrows Spined for your draw weight ( I shoot Xweave 300 at 70 lbs and my buddy shoots Xweave 200 at 60lbs ) If they are over-spined you wont get the speed or flex needed on release and if they are under-spined they can flex to much and break. I have heard stories of broken arrows going through the bow hand's wrist due to damage and to light of arrows


I think you have your numbers mixed up. An arrow with a lower spine number is stiffer then an arrow with a higher spine number. 300 is stiffer then a 400 for example. If your buddy is shooting 200 spine arrows out of a 60lb bow, he's to stiff for his setup. As I stated on another thread somewheres, take your bow poundage and multiply it by 5. That's your lowest arrow grains that you want to shoot. I multiply by 5.5 just to be safe. My bow is set at 70lbs x 5.5 and you get 385. Use that as your base. On your arrow somewhere, it will tell you how many GPI (grains per inch) your arrow is. Mine are 29 1/8 long at 10gpi giving me 290. Add in a 100 gr tip/broadhead and I'm at 390. My lumenocks weigh 26 grains and fletched weigh around 5. That brings me to 421grains if my math is correct. Which is over my 385gr base. Make sense?

[nieves]

I think you have your numbers mixed up. An arrow with a lower spine number is stiffer then an arrow with a higher spine number. 300 is stiffer then a 400 for example. If your buddy is shooting 200 spine arrows out of a 60lb bow, he's to stiff for his setup. As I stated on another thread somewheres, take your bow poundage and multiply it by 5. That's your lowest arrow grains that you want to shoot. I multiply by 5.5 just to be safe. My bow is set at 70lbs x 5.5 and you get 385. Use that as your base. On your arrow somewhere, it will tell you how many GPI (grains per inch) your arrow is. Mine are 29 1/8 long at 10gpi giving me 290. Add in a 100 gr tip/broadhead and I'm at 390. My lumenocks weigh 26 grains and fletched weigh around 5. That brings me to 421grains if my math is correct. Which is over my 385gr base. Make sense?


google-ing furiously...yep.. riiiiight behind ya.. jes gimme a sec for my slow mind to catch up :P

[Bow Walker]

knockturnal - your math is right, but I bet your fletching is 5 grains per fletch equalling 15 grains total - not a total of 5 grains.

[knockturnal]

You would be correct.

[Vader]

I think you have your numbers mixed up. An arrow with a lower spine number is stiffer then an arrow with a higher spine number. 300 is stiffer then a 400 for example. If your buddy is shooting 200 spine arrows out of a 60lb bow, he's to stiff for his setup. As I stated on another thread somewheres, take your bow poundage and multiply it by 5. That's your lowest arrow grains that you want to shoot. I multiply by 5.5 just to be safe. My bow is set at 70lbs x 5.5 and you get 385. Use that as your base. On your arrow somewhere, it will tell you how many GPI (grains per inch) your arrow is. Mine are 29 1/8 long at 10gpi giving me 290. Add in a 100 gr tip/broadhead and I'm at 390. My lumenocks weigh 26 grains and fletched weigh around 5. That brings me to 421grains if my math is correct. Which is over my 385gr base. Make sense?


I'm thinking that, after referring to the PSE site, a 200 is less spine than a 300. there are some manufacturers that do use a reverse method but not PSE, at least in the xweaves. He is correct in using 300's for 70 lb draw weight.

[knockturnal]

nom Nom Nom Nom Nom nom..... thats me eating my words. i guess i should have looked at the arrows he was shooting instead of comparing them to mine. you are also correct.

[Vader]

nom Nom Nom Nom Nom nom..... thats me eating my words. i guess i should have looked at the arrows he was shooting instead of comparing them to mine. you are also correct.

Carbon is kinda gritty... :wink:

[Jonas111]

I have software that helps me choose my arrow spine, weight and length. It also helps me set up my sites.

My target arrows will weigh as low as I am legally aloud to shoot. 5gr/pound is the lowest anyone should go. Reason I do this is because I don't judge yardage well so I make up for that by owning a really fast bow and shooting light arrows.

My hunting bow will have different arrows that weigh a little more, (like 50 to 75grs more). I can do that because I will have a different bow for hunting then I do for 3d and target.

If you happen to get as obsessed with archery like I have you might own four or five bows like me. I know, crazy eh. Just don't tell my wife.

[nieves]

[quote=Jonas111;881135] Reason I do this is because I don't judge yardage well so I make up for that by owning a really fast bow and shooting light arrows.
quote]


theres another thing im not good at, im useless when it comes to judging distances and im hoping that it will get better with more experience! is there any tip/trick you guys use to help you with that? or is it something that you learn with time? my distances are usually "too close, close, good, far, too far and you want me to shoot what??"

[seanfalloy]

nom Nom Nom Nom Nom nom..... thats me eating my words. i guess i should have looked at the arrows he was shooting instead of comparing them to mine. you are also correct.

I didnt even realize till yesterday that different manufactures use different numbers. Just curious what arrow are you shooting. I used to shoot Easton Power Flights and had a terrible problem with them breaking all the time or the insert being rammed into the shaft.

[seanfalloy]

theres another thing im not good at, im useless when it comes to judging distances and im hoping that it will get better with more experience! is there any tip/trick you guys use to help you with that? or is it something that you learn with time? my distances are usually "too close, close, good, far, too far and you want me to shoot what??"

I find that comes with practice. Also that is why I use the same bow for hunting and 3d. ( i do own 2 bows but one is for my brother to shoot ) I like to use 3ds as a time to practice for hunting. Ranging and pointing to where you need to be to me is the biggest point of archery.

[Bow Walker]

I usually get a set distance in mind, one which I can readily recall - say 10 yards - and apply that to what ever is 10 yards from me when I'm standing at the shooting stake. Then go in multiples of 10 yards out to the target.

Some people try to judge half the distance to the target and then double it.

Others pick a point out that is easily identifiable - say a tree partway to the target - and use that distance as a multiple to the target.

It takes a lot of practice and effort. Try judging distances when your walking around. Try judging the distance to that telephone pole and then pace it off. Or that parking meter, or that store front.

One thing to invest in is a range finder. They help a lot.

[nieves]

good ideas :D tx guys for your help, youve all been awesome!! i have a lot to work on now :P

[knockturnal]

I shoot 300 spine easton ST Epics but am switching over to FMJs for hunting this year.