Bow Walker
03-12-2011, 04:00 PM
Dru88’s thread about waxing the string(s) got me thinking about overall bow maintenance. This is the time of the year to check over everything.
Start with your bow. Check your draw weight, brace height, tiller, and cam markings to be sure that they are still within the manufacturers’ specifications. Mark both the cam(s) and the idler wheel with the proper settings as reference points.
Check your strings and cables. Are there any signs of broken strands? Has the serving become loose? If possible, remove the strings/cables so that you can inspect them closely. A little fraying is not a concern, but broken strands are a sure sign that it’s time to replace the string. Fraying is an indicator of a dry string that needs waxing. Check the vibration dampening things that are on your string. If they show signs of splitting or cracking – replace them.
If you replace your string – shoot it in before doing any final tuning or sight adjusting. This will require anywhere from 50 to 100 shots to settle the string. How often should a string be replaced? It really depends on how much you shoot. But a good rule of thumb is to replace strings and cables at least every two to three years – sooner if they show signs of excessive wear.
Check the cams and wheels for any signs of damage. Even minor nicks or dings can cut through strings and cables in just a few shots if they go undetected. Sand or file the damaged areas back to smooth. Now is also a good time to remove the “e-clips” and pull the axles to inspect for signs of wear. Clean the axles with alcohol and give them a roll on a hard, flat surface to check that they are not bent. Lube the axles with either a bit of string wax or a Teflon spray before re-installation. Never, use penetrating lubes, such as WD40 or the like.
Do yourself a favour and remove all your attachments at this time. Sight, Rest, stabilizer, string suppressor, and even the limbs. What you want to check now is all the screws and screw holes. Any signs of rust, dirt, or obstructions? Clean up the crap and apply a bit of grease or oil to the screw threads before re-installing. If you’ve marked the position of your arrow rest and sight you won’t have to do a lot of re-tuning when you’re finished here.
Rust a problem on your screw heads? Try putting a little dab of string wax on them when they are dry. In fact, a bit of wax on all the screw heads and bolt ends will keep them free of rust and dirt.
Don’t forget to check your release, if you use one. Make sure the strap is secure and that the bearings in the release are not wearing excessively. Check your arrows as well. Fletching secure? Any tears in the vanes? Feathers looking ratty? Better to repair/replace now, when you’ve got the time than later when you might be in a hurry.
If you use plastic or rubberized vanes and they get wrinkled but not torn, they can be brought back to near perfect condition by applying some heat from a bow dryer directly onto the vane. Be careful not to get them too hot or you might compromise the glue.
Check your nocks as well. A damaged nock can break just at the release of the shot and it could result in a virtual dry-fire or even injury. It is simple to give the nocks a pinch to see if they’re cracked and/or likely to break, and to inspect them closely for signs of wear.
Your arrows should be checked for straightness and for signs of cracking (carbon shafts) or bending. Invest in an arrow spinner to check that they are spinning true and not wobbling at either the nock end or the business end.
Remember the saying about “an ounce of prevention”?
Start with your bow. Check your draw weight, brace height, tiller, and cam markings to be sure that they are still within the manufacturers’ specifications. Mark both the cam(s) and the idler wheel with the proper settings as reference points.
Check your strings and cables. Are there any signs of broken strands? Has the serving become loose? If possible, remove the strings/cables so that you can inspect them closely. A little fraying is not a concern, but broken strands are a sure sign that it’s time to replace the string. Fraying is an indicator of a dry string that needs waxing. Check the vibration dampening things that are on your string. If they show signs of splitting or cracking – replace them.
If you replace your string – shoot it in before doing any final tuning or sight adjusting. This will require anywhere from 50 to 100 shots to settle the string. How often should a string be replaced? It really depends on how much you shoot. But a good rule of thumb is to replace strings and cables at least every two to three years – sooner if they show signs of excessive wear.
Check the cams and wheels for any signs of damage. Even minor nicks or dings can cut through strings and cables in just a few shots if they go undetected. Sand or file the damaged areas back to smooth. Now is also a good time to remove the “e-clips” and pull the axles to inspect for signs of wear. Clean the axles with alcohol and give them a roll on a hard, flat surface to check that they are not bent. Lube the axles with either a bit of string wax or a Teflon spray before re-installation. Never, use penetrating lubes, such as WD40 or the like.
Do yourself a favour and remove all your attachments at this time. Sight, Rest, stabilizer, string suppressor, and even the limbs. What you want to check now is all the screws and screw holes. Any signs of rust, dirt, or obstructions? Clean up the crap and apply a bit of grease or oil to the screw threads before re-installing. If you’ve marked the position of your arrow rest and sight you won’t have to do a lot of re-tuning when you’re finished here.
Rust a problem on your screw heads? Try putting a little dab of string wax on them when they are dry. In fact, a bit of wax on all the screw heads and bolt ends will keep them free of rust and dirt.
Don’t forget to check your release, if you use one. Make sure the strap is secure and that the bearings in the release are not wearing excessively. Check your arrows as well. Fletching secure? Any tears in the vanes? Feathers looking ratty? Better to repair/replace now, when you’ve got the time than later when you might be in a hurry.
If you use plastic or rubberized vanes and they get wrinkled but not torn, they can be brought back to near perfect condition by applying some heat from a bow dryer directly onto the vane. Be careful not to get them too hot or you might compromise the glue.
Check your nocks as well. A damaged nock can break just at the release of the shot and it could result in a virtual dry-fire or even injury. It is simple to give the nocks a pinch to see if they’re cracked and/or likely to break, and to inspect them closely for signs of wear.
Your arrows should be checked for straightness and for signs of cracking (carbon shafts) or bending. Invest in an arrow spinner to check that they are spinning true and not wobbling at either the nock end or the business end.
Remember the saying about “an ounce of prevention”?