bow sight question

[jetboat jim]

so when you buy a new sight, and you get the 20 yard pin good, do you need to ajust every pin by themselves ?

the way I sighted the 20 yard pin at is by moving the whole sight up or down. I have not touched the pins.
it does seem to shoot good, just dont have many chances to shoot at 40 + yards.

[RoscoeP]

Well if you have the 20 yd bang on, try the next pin at 30 yd and so on and see how they line up. You may have to make some adjustments on each pin. Cheers

[Jehiah]

you HAVE to test each pin. The sight manufacturers do not make your sight custom to your ballistics and therefore your point of impact will NOT line up with your sight - this will become more evident as you progress past the 30 yd/m pin.

[lilhoss]

I've got three coloured pins.I set one for 30,which is the one I sight in for and practice,and I've set the other for 50 yards.I just ignore the third.I was amazed how little drop difference from the 30 to 50 yard range now that I am shooting the easton carbon fibre arrows.

[Ruger4]

I've got three coloured pins.I set one for 30,which is the one I sight in for and practice,and I've set the other for 50 yards.I just ignore the third.I was amazed how little drop difference from the 30 to 50 yard range now that I am shooting the easton carbon fibre arrows.

intersting , what bow are you shooting

[Bow Walker]

jetboat, it all depends on the speed of your bow. The factory just spaces the pins inside the sight housing with no regard for anything.

You've set the first one correctly, but you will likely have to move each of the other pins for the distances you want to set them at - typically ten yard intervals.

[The Hermit]

I'd like to better understand how to use micro-adjustable sights. Do you mark the sight for each distance when setting it up. I really like the idea of only one pin but do guys hunt with them? More movement in dialing it in for the shot?

[Bow Walker]

I know of several people who use a single pin, movable sight to hunt with. Personally I think it just adds an extra element of "fumbling" when your animal finally presents a decent shot opportunity.

Unless - or if - you own a "speed bow" that shoots so fast that the trajectory of your arrow does not change appreciably out to at least 30 yards. AND, you limit your shots to within that range.

[Howy]

If you are using a multiple pin sight sight in your center pin first ei a 5 pin sight with 20 30 40 50 60 yard pins do the 40 first. and adjust using the whole sight not the 40 yd pin. That way your center pin is always in the middle of your sight picture. Then do the others as normal using just the individual pin. And you will end up with another referance for alignment.

[Howy]

I should mention that before you sight in the 40 ensure it is in the middle of the sight housing. then move the whole housing to sight in the 40 then adjust the others by moving just the pin.

[Bow Walker]

A good way to ensure that your pins stay centered Howy. My method of taking the sight (as it comes from the package - with the pins already evenly spaced and centered in the housing) and gang adjusting to get the 20 yard pin (or the first yardage that you plan on setting it at) lined up with the point of impact is virtually the same.

I like these ways because then your pins aren't grouped at tight together either at the top or the bottom of the sight housing.

[elcazador]

does any of you uses a scope with the sight, like a 2x, 4x or 6x?

and if not why?

[Howy]

I personaly feel that sights, rests, and all the other gadgets are enough. I enjoy the challange and feel magnification may take away from that aspect for me. I have no problems with guys that want to try it. If it makes them better and more confident they will probably shoot better and i'm all for that. Just my own preference. Pope and young my not approve for their records either but i'm not sure.

[Mountain Man]

This all comes down to the speed of your bow.

Your top pin is your 20, if your bow chronographs over 320fps then your 20 and 30 yard pin will be extremely tight. But thats another topic.

If its a 4 pin or 5 pin sight witch is most common the goal is to have all the pins in the middle of the sight gang as possible. Ideal to have your top 20 yard pin in the top two thirds of you sight window. Depending on the speed of the bow and how many pins you have will depict where your bottom pin ends up.

After you have your top 20 yard pin set in the top 2 thirds of the sight gang now proceed to your 30. This will now require you moving each pin individually from here down until your last and final pin.

Until you are grouping 3 arrows at 4" at each yardage don't bother moving back.eg If your grouping 4" or less at 40 yards your ready for 50.

If your new to shooting dont shoot more than 3 arrows at at time. Walk up and pull your arrows. By the 4 or 5 arrow shooters get tired. So groups of 3 are best. Always always always number your arrows. Unless you are purchasing arrows that are less than three one thousands of an inch straightness then you will tend to have an average of one or two arrows per dozen that may not group worth shit. Remember no two carbon arrows are produced the same. Trust me! Those arrows that cant seem to group become your grouse arrows. If your arrows are numbered with paint pen or jiffy marker on the fletch or shaft this will help single out those arrows.

[Mountain Man]

I'd like to better understand how to use micro-adjustable sights. Do you mark the sight for each distance when setting it up. I really like the idea of only one pin but do guys hunt with them? More movement in dialing it in for the shot?

The single micro adjust pins are becoming more popular ! Yes it can mess with a shooter at times when you need to adjust it while a buck is staring you in the eye.

Single pins are much more accurate for a few reasons. The main reason is that your pin is always in the middle of your line of sight. Many novice shooters, [not saying this is you] Make the mistake of lining each of there pins in the middle of there peep. Follow me ? Thats a tragic mistake. Dealing with new struggling shooters weekly that don't realize you hallow your peep with the always round sight gang window or pin guard. Surprising how may people dont know this.

That guard around your pins is NOT just there to protect your pin's. Its round for a reason. Its there so that you aline your peep's round window with your round pin guard window then down range with whats typically your round practice target, The eye sees in circles. Think of shooting with tunnel vision. Round peep,round sight gang,round bullzeye. Try this it will tighten your groups

With a single pin it again depends on the speed of the bow, its the same principle as a high end target sight with clickers and scope. Its yard for yard.
With hunting to keep it simple and tidy mark with a pencil a 20,25,30,35,40,45,50 in 5 yard increments. Or just mark 20, 30, 40, 50. With todays modern bows being fast this is fine.

Hope that helps

[Bow Walker]

Good explanation Mtn Man. I use a single pin, movable sight on my target bow, when pin point accuracy is the name of the game - not that I'm that good, but...

For hunting purposes I find that multiple pins are best - for me, at least - there's no need to reset the pin for the shot yardage. No need to take your eyes off the animal to reset the pin. Other than that I love my single pin for 3D.

[Bow Walker]

does any of you uses a scope with the sight, like a 2x, 4x or 6x?

and if not why?
Scopes and magnifying lenses are great for target and/or 3D but not very practical for hunting purposes.

The glass can get wet and be very hard to see through when it's raining or snowing out. Although I have to admit that I have a verifier in my peep just to help me get a better, cleaner, clearer picture of the pins on my hunting bow. Damn these old eyes, anyway :(

I used to have a very expensive sight on my target bow and with it I had a 4X magnifier lens.
http://www.huntingbc.ca/photos/data/500/Vectrix_XL_018.jpg (http://www.huntingbc.ca/photos/showphoto.php?photo=22840)

The rain was a huge problem that I finally solved by putting Butler Creek rifle scope covers on the sight housing. I had to get the really big ones to get them to fit properly but they worked great - even had the flip-up covers on them. Kept the rain off the lens just fine.

But I got tired of having to make all those sight adjustments for each and every shot. Took a lot of 'clicks' to move the sight window. Now I use a much simpler type of a singe pin sight. Much easier (and quicker) to make the necessary adjustments.

Sorry for the long-winded story....

[elcazador]

With hunting to keep it simple and tidy mark with a pencil a 20,25,30,35,40,45,50 in 5 yard increments. Or just mark 20, 30, 40, 50. With todays modern bows being fast this is fine.

Hope that helps

yes it does, I think I will set my 3 pin sight to 25 yards middle of sight pin then 35, and 50.

Knowing that placement is the key factor, I will try to find a 4x magnification lens for my sight. I would have thought that the optics of the lens would make harder good arrow placement from long (40 to 50 yards) shots because the center of the lens is align with my 25 yards pins, the other two are not in alignment with the center of the lens, can someone explain this about optics?

[mntbowhunter]

I like to set my middle pin first so its in the center of the ring. I adjust this one by moving the whole sight. Then I start from the top at 20yrds and work my way down. I use a 7 pin sight starting at 20yrds in 10 yard increments. So my 50yrd pin is exactly in the middle. If you shoot a five pin I would have the 40 in the middle and if you shoot a three pin I would have the 30 in the middle.

depends on what increments you want I guess?