Bandsaw not running true

[4ptbuck]

I bought a new to me Samona Bandsaw. It has seen very little use previous to me. When I bought it the saw blade was off, as the previous owner used it mainly for grinding.

I got the manual, and set it all up.

Problem I have is the blade doesn't like to run true, especially if I am cutting heavier bone. It wanders towards the outside, and has chewed up my table a bit.

Anybody have any ideas on how to correct this?

[Bow Walker]

Is the tension on the blade set right? If the blade doesn't have the right tension it'll wander pretty badly.

Are the upper and lower wheels true to each other? Does the blade make a perfect circle or does it wobble a bit. You might have to take off the guards to eyeball the blade while the saw is running.

I don't know the brand of saw that you're talking about. I just have had a lot of experience with meat band saws over the years.

Hope this helps a bit.

[4ptbuck]

I think the Samona saw is the same as the Busy Bee saws.

When running the blade is fine. It's just when I encouner a large bone, ie splitting the spine, cutting chops, or shanks, that he blade will wander.

When I say wander, the blade will twist.

My manual says to set blade tension so that a slight deflection of 3mm occurs when slight pressure with a thumb or finger is applied. What the heck does that mean?

I've go the tension pretty tight. Scared of too tight, a PING! I've also got the upper and lower guide set close, almost brushing.

[Caveman]

A common cause of this is also feeding the meat too quick, cause once it starts off line it's hard to correct. Can you gear it down?

[Chuck]

Besides the upper and lower guide adjustments, as well as blade tension, there has to be bearing(s) that the back edge of the blade rides on. Without these adjusted properly, you'll just push the blade off of the pulleys when applying more pressure - as in cutting bone.

[Caveman]

another thought, the guide set to high about what is being cut?

[Bow Walker]

Adjust the tension so that when there is about 10 inches of blade between the upper guide and the table, the blade is hard to move from side to side (when held in at about the 5 inch mark) - using your fingers. Do this when the saw is turned off (of course).

[goatdancer]

Is it possible that the blade was wacked on one side by the previous owner and now pulls under load? If the teeth on one side of the blade are bent a bit or dulled, then the blade will pull when loaded.

[Rod]

Is it possible that the blade was wacked on one side by the previous owner and now pulls under load? If the teeth on one side of the blade are bent a bit or dulled, then the blade will pull when loaded.

X2 I don't think meat blades have a lot of set but if it is unevenly set it will walk especially under load and if you have hit the blade guide chances are your set is gone or even reversed (all teeth set to the same side..

My experience is with wood cutting bandsaws but I have a riser on mine and re-saw hardwood, blade set and plenty of tension solve alot of problems.. once you inspect the blade set the tension based on Mfg specs then try adding tension a little at a time to see if the condition improves.

[4ptbuck]

I've got the bearing set properly. Both the bottom and sideways top one. Both only touch when cutting. There is a tiny gap between blade and bearing.

It doesn't matter how slow I go, it always starts to go cock eyed.

Hmmm, maybe I have a tension problem. With 10" showing, it should be hard to move from side to side? From this description, my mind is thinking that I should be able to grasp with finger and thumb, and not get much side to side movement.

I don't think the teeth have any set to them. The blade was pretty much brand new. I don't recall the teeth being staggered at all from left to right.

Interesting thing is that it always wants to twist outwards. Never inwards.

[Caveman]

From what you described could it be a problem with pulley alignment?

[goatdancer]

I sold the same type of machine last week and, while cleaning the blade, found that there was a definite set to the teeth. I'm pretty sure that the blade would bung up very quickly if there was no set.

[M.Dean]

I haven't used a meat band saw for years, but could the blade it's self be too thin? I do remember we had a similar problem with the band saw we were using so I went to Franks Tool Sharpening in Kamloops and had a wider band made, seemed to correct the problem. The first band that we tried was too narrow, didn't matter what we did it would bend and twist when cutting bone, the wider thicker one worked great. Maybe check and see if that brand of saw will take a wider tougher blade. Good Luck!

[4ptbuck]

I got a feeling it may be pulley alignment.
The position of the blade is set on the bottom pulley by 2 setscrews on the top pulley. Could it be that these 2 setscrews are the problem? Any ideas on adjusting these?

Also, where in the lower mainland can I get blades for this and my 25" princess auto meat saw? Which by the way also doesn't run true :(

[heyblast]

If the saw had little use it probably has the original blade that most likely is a piece of garbage. Buy a new blade and make sure there is set on the teeth.

[cainer]

when i was a butcher, i had a couple of blades pop off while cutting shank bones-nothing scarier...if you can't fix it-find someone who can. it's worth your fingers. luckily i still have mine.

[goatdancer]

[quote=4ptbuck;774585]I got a feeling it may be pulley alignment.
The position of the blade is set on the bottom pulley by 2 setscrews on the top pulley. Could it be that these 2 setscrews are the problem? Any ideas on adjusting these?


Send a PM to cdn-redneck. He bought my saw and has the manual that came with it. Maybe he can help with the adjustments.

[4ptbuck]

I've got the manual. It doesn't help. All it says is to adjust the 2 set screws to set the band on the bottom pulley.

[saddlemaker]

new blade. Sounds like you may be describing a wrecked blade.

[4ptbuck]

ok, I'll try a new blade.
Where in the LM,... preferably closer to Richmond can I find one?

[Farmer]

I ordered saw blades from a place in Vancouver or Burnaby a number of years ago, but I don't recall the name anymore. Contact one of the butcher supply shops in the yellow pages and ask. They may carry the correct blade or be able to refer you to an outfit that carries many sizes.

[transplantednewf]

My brother bought a Samona earlier this year only to find out that it was a boneless meat saw. He had the same thing happening....blade would wander and cut into table when it hit bone. Perhaps you have the same saw. May be worth checking out. Do you have the owners manual? If so, I believe on the second or third page there is a statement something to the effect "not designed to cut bone" (if its the same saw)

[4ptbuck]

Haha, yup, my manual says that too.

Does that mean I SOL? I can believe it won't cut bone.

Now as to parts, cause I know I'll need some. Anybody know where in the lower mainland I can find blades, and grinder plates/cutters?

[Cdn-Redneck]

Look under the table and there is two tabs that can be adjusted closer to the blade. Also lower the fence just higher than the meat. That helped but we had similar problems with the same saw. We froze the loins and cut them frozen, that helped out quite a bit.

[4ptbuck]

I have the guides adjusted so they are almost brushing, and had the upper down low.

Never had problems going throught the meaty section, or ribs. Just the shanks, necks, spliting the spine, or cutting chops, ie just the heavier bones.

[Trevor Alan]

Hey,
I don't have much butchering experience, but I have been using and setting up bandsaws for ten years for woodworking. It sounds to me like you have a dull blade, as some others have also said. I know that it only takes a fraction of a second to dull a blade in the wrong material. If you have a cheap blade, even moderate wood (Softer than bone) can dull a blade remarkably quickly. I can only imagine what bone would do. On the other hand a good sharp blade will track true with or without the blade guides set up. Have you checked to see what the difference is between meat blades and wood blades? If a high tooth count wood blade will work, I can give you some hints about the best buys for blades.

[oldtimer]

Sawing technology is farly Basic, wether working in a sawmill or a butcher shop. My 2 cents is :
1. Check wheel alignment
2. Check guide alignment to wheels
3. Check band tension above and below guide. ( should not move below guide.)
4. Check the saw. Sharp ? good set ? I am thinking maybe 10 thousands per side.
5. Condition of saw, is it stretched? hold it hanging down on your finger, does it hang in a good oval or does it want to twist.

Good luck......Mike

[naswell]

Howdy, Does any one know of any used bandsaws for sale on the island ?