How much salt ?

[Geo.338]

I am going on my grizzly hunt in 4 days and would like to know .How much salt should I take for the hide ?Also ,is the hide on wolves any good at this time ?Thanks.

[Ian F.]

if you've got the room take lots! and remember NON-IODIZED pickleing salt, comes in 1kg bags. I have no idea how big a grizzley is, but if I remember the bear I shot was 5 1/2' long and I used at least 1 bag on it. I would say between 4 and 6 and you'd be safe. This way too, if you have the time to let it sit, scrape and re-salt you are ahead of the crowd. Also at a buck or so a bag if you have to leave it behind the moose will be happy and you wallet won't be upset.

Biggest suggestion is contact your taxidermist BEFORE you go and get things in order.

Very best,

Ian

[Stone Sheep Steve]

You can't take too much so go to a bulk food store and buy a 20KG bag. A sheep shoulder cape can use a good 3 lbs and a BIG gizz can use A LOT more. Finer salt is better.
Salt is cheap. You can always bring home what you don't use.

SSS

[mainland hunter]

i dont know if you gotta costco around there but they sell 20 kg bags. id say bring 2 or 3. there 4 bucks a bag and if weight isnt an issue then you'll want to bring lots. get as much meat off as you can, salt up to an eighth or quarter inch of salt over the whole hide and all around the ears and lips especially if you're not gonna turn which you probably want to save for the taxidermist. roll it up over night then shake it off and do this 2 or 3 times.
good luck

[bsa30-06]

Geo.338, i saw a table in the core book that gave the recomended amounts so i went and looked it up for you.It states 4.5kg(10lbs)for a whole grizzly hide.Good luck to you , cant wait to see the pics.

[mainland hunter]

do way more than 10 lbs if wieght aint an issue

[bsa30-06]

yeah i agree if you got the room take more than 10lbs.

[huntwriter]

Geo.338 what bsa30-06 is about the right amount of salt. If you can't make it back home for a day or two take double that amount of salt with you. It is important that you massage the salt well into the skin. Use generous amounts to rub well into the ears, around the eyes, nose, paws and claws. Being careful not spill salt on to the fur side of the skin. Hair and salt don't like each other.

Just sprinkling the salt on to the hide will defeat the purpose. The next day shake the hide out and re-salt it again as describd above. The purpose of salting is to pull as much moisture out of the skin as possible and slow the process of decay. For this reason the hide should be re-salted every day until there is no more wet or moist salt left on the hide.

Good luck with your bear hunt.

P.S. mainland hunter - You should not roll up a salted hide. It should be folded in half first, meat side onto meat side. It is not good if the hair side touches the meat (salted) side of the hide. If possible, it is better to hang the salted skin over night. This will aid in draining the liquid off.

[bsa30-06]

Geo.338,that last figure was from an older core book so i got off my lazy a$$ and went to my truck to get the newer book and it states as follows
cape only 5lbs
whole hide 20lbs
hope this helps.If your interested the chart is in the core book with the sheep on the front on page 51,good luck

[mainland hunter]

i do taxidermy and this is how ive always done it. it's true you can get away with less salt, but more is always better. ive never found rolling it up to be bad for the hair. only if it's a pure white animal. and to drain it leave it on a sloped board or soomething. always repeat the salting process at least twice.

[huntwriter]

I went trough my tanning and hide preparation manuals and it states there 1 kg salt per square foot of hide for the first salting. My manual (professional butcher school book) makes a point of caution not to lay the salted side onto the hair side.

I forgot to mention in my first post. Before salting the skin should be carefully fleshed. Meaning trim all the meat and fat of the skin before salting.

I also found this website (http://www.absarokawesterndesign.com/buffalotanning.html) on the Internet which explains in detail how it should done and what to avoid.

Hope this will help you.

[lip_ripper00]

as a side note I put this question to the gentalman at Fur and Feathers,If you are going to have the hide done right away, salt it.If I am sucessful this spring, because of the cost I will freeze the hide for a month or so In which case skin, cool out, and freeze as soon as possable.He also suggested I leave the skull and paws in, having not done one my self he said the would be happy to show me how to do it right.He said he's seen a lot of damaged hides done by people not knowing my .02 Steve

[Geo.338]

Thank you for your quick responses and good info I think that I will try and err on the side of excess salt .

[huntwriter]

as a side note I put this question to the gentalman at Fur and Feathers,If you are going to have the hide done right away, salt it.If I am sucessful this spring, because of the cost I will freeze the hide for a month or so In which case skin, cool out, and freeze as soon as possable.He also suggested I leave the skull and paws in, having not done one my self he said the would be happy to show me how to do it right.He said he's seen a lot of damaged hides done by people not knowing my .02 Steve
That's a very good point. Skinning out the paws and head, especially around the mouth, eyes and ears, is very iffy at best for the inexperienced person. If in doupt leave the paws and head attached to the hide. Take your time to skin and use a razor sharp knife, this will avoid cutting into the skin.

As for frezzing the skin. This should be done witin 24 hours of killing the animal. In this case hang and spread, not stretching, the skin so it can cool down and dry out as much as possible. If you have a long ride home do not stuff the skin into a plastic bag as it will begin to sweat. Instead roll it with the hair side out and then roll it into a old bed sheet or a game bag.

Good post lip_ripper00. Many trophies are spoiled before they get to the taxidermist. Even the best taxitermist can't fix up a spoiled or damaged hide. It might also be helpful to talk to your taxitermist for some advice. Most are very helpful in this regard, especially if they sense a future client in you.

[mainland hunter]

another good point letting the hide cool before freezing is important. those hides are great insulator so when they're folded up it can take a very long time to freeze inside. spoiling can happen during that time if it hasnt been cooled down

[BCLongshot]

Take what these guys say and then some more !! If you have time phone the Taxidermist your going to use and talk to him.