At the Range today

[cainer]

With my new PSE Vendetta XS. I'll tell ya what-Shootin pointy sticks from this thing is not easy! I'm a pretty good shot with my recurve, but it took me a while to get the hang of it with this thing.

I've got 4 out of 6 arrows left, snapped one clean in half, and put one into a wood post- after a half hour of digging it out, the end was broken:evil:.

So I need some tips. I'm shooting consistently low and to the left. and the d-loop keeps twisting around the string after every shot. what to do?

also, i was wondering-should the arrow be level with the shelf in the whisker biscuit at rest? or at full draw? or both?

Hoping all you archery techs can chime in.
Thanks!

[Bow Walker]

There is sooo much that can affect where and how you shoot.

Start with the bow - given that you're shooting is consistent and your form is not out of wack.

When the bow is at rest and with an arrow nock - the arrow should form a right angle with the string. The pins of your sight and your bow string should be in perfect vertical alignment. The bow string should bisect the arrow - right down the middle. That is called a down and dirty "center shot alignment".

Without a decent center shot alignment you are going to be shooting left or right all the time. It can't be helped. So the first thing to check (and adjust) is your center shot.

If arrow doesn't form a right angle with the string then your nocking point is either too high or too low. The result of which will give you a low or high P.O.I. or Point Of Impact. You can adjust this by moving your nocking point up or down as necessary or by adjusting the height of your Whisker Biscuit.

Checking your center hot and your arrow level should go a long way to correcting your problem.

Oh yeah, technically you can shoot through a Whisker Biscuit with the cock vane in any position but it's best to have it either in the up or down position. You might try reversing the position of the cock vane after you do the other corrections - if you are still having issues.

Give that a try and let us know if you're still having problems. Good luck.







p.s.
Don't move your bow hand until the arrow impacts the target. That'll stop any premature movement that might be affecting your arrow's flight.

[204rug.ftw]

im not an expert at all, but from the sounds of it your timing might be off on the cams. if it is that'll affect the arrow not being on a right angle wioth the string. try what bow walker has suggested and come back to us with the results. good luck

[Bowzone_Mikey]

there are people here here that have forgotten more than I know .... For the most part BW has it right .... I would set up your arrow so its level with the berger hole (the hole that your rest screws into) an Bow square is very handy tool and fairly cheap from CDN tire.... Idealy the arrow should be level at both points .... if its not then you have Timing issues and whats known as Nock travel (some Nock travel is acceptible ... But idealy you want no travel) ..if this is the case then you need to goto a shop or someone with a press and redo your string and cables ... Probally not a bad idea as the reason why your loop is twisting is because you dont have very many twists in your string now

Oh and if you have a relitivlynew Whisker Bisquit ...BW is not correct ..it does matter how you index the arrows ... You dont want any vane to pass through the darker whiskers as they are stiffer than the lighter colored ones .......

After reading you post again .... I am curious to know the specs of your bow and your arrows .... I am thinking that you might be using you Recurve arras out you compound ... and if you are that will account for a bunch of fliers as well

[Bow Walker]

Don't listen to BZM when he says that he doesn't know much....

He knows a lot more than most on here.

[cainer]

there are people here here that have forgotten more than I know .... For the most part BW has it right .... I would set up your arrow so its level with the berger hole (the hole that your rest screws into) an Bow square is very handy tool and fairly cheap from CDN tire.... Idealy the arrow should be level at both points .... if its not then you have Timing issues and whats known as Nock travel (some Nock travel is acceptible ... But idealy you want no travel) ..if this is the case then you need to goto a shop or someone with a press and redo your string and cables ... Probally not a bad idea as the reason why your loop is twisting is because you dont have very many twists in your string now

Oh and if you have a relitivlynew Whisker Bisquit ...BW is not correct ..it does matter how you index the arrows ... You dont want any vane to pass through the darker whiskers as they are stiffer than the lighter colored ones .......

After reading you post again .... I am curious to know the specs of your bow and your arrows .... I am thinking that you might be using you Recurve arras out you compound ... and if you are that will account for a bunch of fliers as well

My bow is set to around 57 pounds...probably going to increase to around 60-63lbs. It has the potential to go to 70 lbs...but i doubt i'll get there this year.
I'm using 300 grain carbon fibre arrows with 100 grain points. can't remember what brand-at work tonight, but they grouped pretty well. I tried a couple of my recurve aluminum arrows as well, but they just flew all over the place so that ended pretty quick.

I dont actually have one of those metal nocks on my bowstring-just the d loop. should i have both?

[Bow Walker]

I suspect that your arrows are in the .300 spine category. If so, they should be good for your stated setup. If you make it to 70 lbs of draw weight you may want to go to the next stiffer spine, depending on how long the shafts are cut.

Do your present arrow (or arras :wink:) fly nice and even or do they wobble, fishtail, or porpoise around as they go down range?

[hardnocks]

those are americas best strings so they shouldn't`t be your prob.could be your dloop material . I have seen some dloops tied with stuff that will never tighten up.

A vandetta is a great bow the xs part wasn`t the best choice for a first bow . But now you have it learn to shoot it . Do you have someone with experience to shoot with ?

If not move your sights so you can hit what you are shooting at. And then just work on your forum .

work on your forum before trying to be a bow mechanic an archer with good forum can shoot a badly tuned bow well.
Their is a wealth of info on the archerytalk search forums .one just has to wade through the bs.

[Bowzone_Mikey]

If they group good then do as Hardnocks says ... move the sight so you hit where you aim .....

Remember when sighting in a bow ... follow the POI ...

then work on form ...

[cainer]

I suspect that your arrows are in the .300 spine category. If so, they should be good for your stated setup. If you make it to 70 lbs of draw weight you may want to go to the next stiffer spine, depending on how long the shafts are cut.

Do your present arrow (or arras :wink:) fly nice and even or do they wobble, fishtail, or porpoise around as they go down range?


I'm gonna say they fly nice and straight-sometimes I don't even see them:-D...and sometimes one flies off the handle-pretty sure I'm torquing the bow when that happens though. (not too far off the handle)

I've come across another problem: the bow rest has 2 delineation marks. one on the rest, and one on the side of the rest-and I believe they are there to show where the arrow is supposed to align on the rest.

Problem is-if I align the arrow right over top of these marks, the fletching will hit one of the cables. and if I move the arrow over, it won't be lined up properly. What to do?

And what's with the dang allen wrench sizing? I have to go out and buy some more imperial sizes! geez. havent they heard of metric:wink:

[cainer]

those are americas best strings so they shouldn't`t be your prob.could be your dloop material . I have seen some dloops tied with stuff that will never tighten up.


Here's another problem-the original string had some minor wear, so PSE got me another one-which turned out to be the wrong size. They have the sizing numbers wrong at the office for this bow.
Sooo, Boormans Archery- being the outstanding shop that they are, made me a string on the spot, until my new string gets here.
So i guess there could be some problems with the string. The d loop djust dries me nuts-one side stays put, and one side turns.

Do you guys use those metal nocks as well as the d loop? or just the d loop.

[Bowzone_Mikey]

I use a just the d-loop with some serving material to act as a nock point (actually waxed dental floss works great for this ... cheap light and tough ...and pre-waxed )

make a larger section below the arrow than above ... creates a bit of downpressure on the arrow at rest and keeps it on the rest

[hardnocks]

those marks are their just to alien your arrow . use the burger hole and center shot. don`t put your arrow over top of the mark . the left side of the shaft should be lined up on the right side of the mark

[Bow Walker]

A thought here...

If you're shooting a brand new string "made on the spot" by Boormans then I think that it will be stretching and settling like crazy. Not that it's a bad string, just that it will take a while for it to stretch out and to settle into your bow.

Hence the problems with your d-loop and your peep not staying aligned.

What I do when I install a new d-loop is to insert a pair of needle-nosed pliers inside between the loop and the string, then prise open the pliers against the d-loop. This will tighten the knots so that it is (and will remain) secure, plus it puts lots of pressure on the knots so that if they are going to slip they do it then and not when you're trying to come to full draw. Saves a self-punch in the face.

Like Mikey said - get rid of the brass knocking points and tie in your own - like this...

http://www.huntingbc.ca/photos/data/500/D-loop_w_Nockset_4.jpg (http://www.huntingbc.ca/photos/showphoto.php?photo=20317)

[cainer]

Awesome-thanks fellas! Appreciate the pic BW!

[harbinger]

Good work Cainer, keep it up, I wanna see you wack something with your bow this year!

[BCLongshot]

Cool

Gettin a stick flicker.

Good thread.

[Onesock]

Actually you should garbage the compound and go back to the recurve. Aren't stick bows a simple thing. As someone said "don't fix it if it ain't broken."

[The Hermit]

OR Pay the shop to set up and tune your bow!!