Got my new bow set up today!

[sugar]

Well after lots of research and saving up I finally got my new bow. The set up is as follows:

Hoyt Vantage Pro with Cam and 1/2 plus
Fuse Pilot M Series 7 pin hunter
6.5" carbon connexion hunter stablizer
Satori Lite 1 piece quiver
NAP Quick Tune 750 rest
Jim Fletcher 44 Cal release aid

I had the benefit of being friends with a master bow tuner and coach who today had me shooting 4" groups at 30 yds. on my 8th shot ever from a bow.

All I need is to get some Easton 2213 arrows and broad heads and after more practice I should be good to go for the hunting season.

http://www.huntingbc.ca/photos/data/500/BOW_0011.jpg




On that topic, I can't seem to find any arrows locally, where is a good place to order from?

[Bowzone_Mikey]

assuming you are not freakishly short and your arrows will be cut at about 28" or so ... a Finished 2213 should weigh in at just about 425 grains with a 100 grian BH on it ...

Just about perfect for a hunting arrow

IIRC
2213 spine out at about .460 ... good for about a 57-61sh draw weight ...
Plenty enough for any animal in North America ... but if your pulling more weight than that you might wanna look at a stiffer arrow for better flight


BTW ... Great Rig !!!!!!!
I almost Pulled the Pin on a Vantage Elite(Same as yours but with a Shoot thru Riser) this year But I knew I wouldnt be shooting enough Target to make it worth while

[MikeH]

Nice bow when I upgrade will be purchasing a hoyt alpha max.you can try big game archery in abbotsford.there's also a place in New Westminister Boorman Archery or you can look into out of province.I use Sherwood park Archery for arrows.

[Bow Walker]

Just curious as to why you want to shoot aluminums instead of carbons?

Grest bow BTW, you'll be very happy with it - especially when you bag your first game animal.

[sugar]

This is from Easton's website

Practice Safe Shooting
Carbon arrows may be used for hunting if special precautions are taken. Carbon arrow shafts used in bowhunting could break after being shot into a big game animal. This arrow breakage may be caused by the angle in which the arrow impacts the animal, or by the reaction of the animal itself such as rolling on the shaft or rubbing against a tree. The break may be inside the animal and may not be immediately obvious after recovery of the animal.
Unlike aluminum arrows, when a carbon arrow breaks, it tends to shatter with the resulting creation of many sharp, splinter-like fragments. These fragments can be harmful to humans if ingested; therefore, when game is recovered, the hunter should always carefully determine whether the arrow has broken inside the animal. If the arrow has broken, follow the instructions below:
Use extreme caution when removing broken segments of the carbon arrow shaft.
When field dressing game animals, use care to avoid splinters of carbon fiber.
Carefully remove the flesh in the area of the wounds. It may contain carbon fiber, particularly at the entry and exit points.
Thoroughly clean the surrounding area of the wound and inspect for the presence of carbon fragments.
Carefully dispose of any meat that might contain carbon splinters. Do not leave for scavengers to eatThis plus the arrow breakage precautions and inspections required for carbon arrows seems to be too much for me.

I'm not too sure about it but for my lack of experience it is enough to drive me away from carbon arrows. What are the thoughts of the people who are using them??

[MikeH]

I've been a archer for a long time used aluminum arrows for most of my shooting be it target gopher or big game.Whiched to carbon about five yrs ago they fly faster but in my opinion are not as strong when they shatter they shatter.I still use them and will continue too if your going for a carbon arrow i suggest http://www.eastonarchery.com/products/hunting/carboncore a little bit of both.I'm very hard on arrows they are consumables.I treat them as such you have to inspect them on a regular basis.I'm not trying to scare you away from carbons i love them just make sure you buy a good quality carbon not a Walmart shaft.:wink:

[Bowzone_Mikey]

I would never shoot another Full Alum again ... I started with em ... My target shafts are Alum Core ...here is why I wont shoot alums again

It has nothing to do with the weight but the slightest bend or bruiseto the shaft and they are useless .... Had this happen to me ... had a small indent near middle of shaft .... when I released the arrow it damn near folded in half. Carbon are easy to spot a problem so long as you can hear .... flex the arrow a bit ... if you hear what sounds like cracking glass ... turf the arrow ... My point is Alums are harder to detect a problem ... Carbons are stronger and can take more abuse

[Bow Walker]

It's been my experience that carbon shafts are either broken and totally useless, or are good to go, while aluminums can be slightly off true or bent and you'd never really know it.

Once I made my way through my first dozen aluminums I switched to carbons and have never looked back.

BTW, I've never had a carbon shaft break inside a deer and leave splinters in the meat. Not saying that it couldn't happen, just never happen to me or anyone that I know of.

[sugar]

Another newbie question.....

What are the main advantages of a carbon arrow?

And what do you guys think about the full metal jacket arrows? Carbon core with alum. outer. Worth the few extra bucks??

I'm looking to do this right the first time, and so far thanks for the advice pointing me in the right direction.

[sugar]

http://www.huntingbc.ca/photos/data/500/medium/BOW_0021.jpg

http://www.huntingbc.ca/photos/data/500/medium/BOW_0031.jpg

[Bowzone_Mikey]

Carbons= tougher and typically lighter

FMJs= heavy but a great arrow .... Bonus if you 3D shoot ... the Alum outter makes pulling arrows way ...way easier

I tried Hunting with the Reverse of a FMJ .. ACC ..alum core Carbon outer and they were great as well but Outserts for 3-39 size were too damn pricey .... and at better than 200/doz .. I decided that I could kill a critter just as dead using middle shelf quality shafts ... Being out a 1/4 inch aint gonna make much differance on an animal but a 1/4 inch is the differance between an X ring and an 8 score ...or a 14 and a 5 .... on a couple targets a 14 and a miss ....

[sugar]

Here is what I am not understanding-

The arrow I need to shoot is a 2213. Does that refer to weight? I am assuming that I am set up to shoot a certain weight of an arrow from my bow, and will it be the same weight in alum. or carbon?

[Bowzone_Mikey]

2213 refers to Eastons Alum sizing system .. dont try to understand it .. I dont think even Easton understands it ....
2213 spines out at .460 that is the number that should concern you

what you need to know is how long you want your arrows and your draw weight
and click this link
http://www.eastonarchery.com/products/selection

the Cam 1/2 plus is classified as a Medium Cam

[Bowzone_Mikey]

arrow spine is how much an arrow flexes with a 2 pound weight in the middle of a 29" span ... .460 refers to almost 1/2 an inch

as far as weight of arrow goes .. no .. it all depend on construction materials and method ... for example I have some 400 spine Easton Lightspeeds that have a finished weight of 306 grains ... I have some 400 spine Easton AXIS ST with the same weight of point .. the only differance is I am using slightly light vanes (micro Blazers vs original Blazers)on the Lightspeeds and I I dont have an insert glued into the Lightspeeds (13 grains) but I do have uni bushings that add 8 grains that I dont have on the STs ... the STs weigh in at 404 ... both will fly great out of my bow the Sts POI will be alot lower than the lightspeeds tho

[Bow Walker]

Another newbie question.....

What are the main advantages of a carbon arrow?

And what do you guys think about the full metal jacket arrows? Carbon core with alum. outer. Worth the few extra bucks??

I'm looking to do this right the first time, and so far thanks for the advice pointing me in the right direction.
The main difference is in durability. Alum. are easily prone to getting bent - whether just a slight bend or a severe bend - they are easily damaged. They can get bent from being mis-handled getting them in/out of your quiver, they can get damaged being taken in/out of your arrow case. If (and when) they get damaged they are almost impossible (and expensive) to straighten out to where they are usable again. Actually they never get absolutely straight again, once they've been bent - even slightly.

Carbons, on the other hand, will take a lot of punishment before they fail. The punishment that will damage an Al arrow will not damage a carbon arrow. Carbons are either broken or they are good to shoot.

To check whether a carbon is damaged (it's very hard to see) you need to flex the arrow and listen for a "crackling-type sound". Read up on checking carbon arrows here - http://www.goldtip.com/. Crackling in the shaft indicates that some (or a lot) of the carbon fibers are damaged and or broken. An arrow that sounds like that is no good, get rid of it.

Easton arrows and products (IMO) are way over priced. They are not better quality, they are not better finished, and they do not do a better job than any other product. Again, just my opinion and experience.

Everyone here knows that I'm a Gold Tip fan. (http://www.goldtip.com/). Over the years I've found GT products to be very tough. I don't use their top of the line stuff, I use their mid-line shafts and custom build my own arrows.

Taking a full length shaft and cutting it to your specific length will dramatically increase the straightness value of that particular shaft. Especially when you cut an equal amount from both ends of the shaft to achieve your desired length. So you can take a cheaper shaft and cut from both ends and thereby increase the straightness value of that shaft up to the value of a much more expensive shaft.

Take the time to have a good look around Gold Tip's site. There is a lot of info there for the beginning archer. As always - we're here to lend a hand at any time.

[Ambush]

[quote=Bowzone_Mikey;722392]2213 refers to Eastons Alum sizing system .. dont try to understand it .. I dont think even Easton understands it ....[/quote (http://[/quote)]

Easy system. The first two digits refer to a fraction. In 2213 the 22 stands for 22/64". Broke down the shaft is 11/32 [22/64] of an inch in diameter.
The second two digits refer to the shaft wall thickness in decimal points.
2213 is .013 thousands of an inch wall thickness.

If you want a tough arrow then go for a thicker wall in the same approximate spine. So a 2117 instead of a 2213. This increases the wall thickness by .004" making it much harder to dent.

You can get more spine at the same weight by increasing diameter and decreasing wall thickness. Aluminums offer many variables to tailor to your specific needs.

But I use carbons for all the same reasons most other people do. Aluminums are great for grouse and rabbits because you can straighten them dozens of times. And if you screw up a shot at a chicken because of a bent arrow, oh well. But you don't want that on the buck of a lifetime.

[hoyt]

I have been nailing big game for some time with carbons, never, ever had one fail INSIDE the animal, but have seen them explode after they have passed on through to hit rocks and such.
Don't rule them out, they are built true, stay true, and they are tough as hell.

[sugar]

Thanks guys, I have some reading to do, I'll keep you posted on which way I go, and will probably have some more questions.

Thanks again!

[Ike]

sugar,

I just bought a new bow [PSE Axe 6 - and no matter what BM says it is a great looking bow ;) ] a month or so ago. I made the switch from aluminum to carbons as well and can't imagine going back. The carbons are superior in every way you can imagine. They are unphased by abuse that would bend or dent an aluminum arrow.

JMO
Cheers

[Bowzone_Mikey]

Easy system. The first two digits refer to a fraction. In 2213 the 22 stands for 22/64". Broke down the shaft is 11/32 [22/64] of an inch in diameter.
The second two digits refer to the shaft wall thickness in decimal points.
2213 is .013 thousands of an inch wall thickness.

.
Leave it to a Machinist to explain it so everyone could understand ... I knew that .. I just couldnt figger a way to explain it in easy english ....


and no matter what BM says it is a great looking bow :wink:
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder ;)

[sugar]

or in this case the PSEholder

[hardnocks]

Personally i could give a rats ass what a bow looks like . Especially if it shoots as good as my xforce .

[Bow Walker]

What's the name of that Southern philosopher who said "Fugly is as Fugly does"? Seems to fit the bill here.

[sugar]

So for my first doz. arrows I settled with the inexpensive xx75's in 2213. They fly really good for my current set up and I won't be too upset if I loose or crash one. I found a doz. made up at Bucky's for a good price.

When I get the bow set to 70lbs and have some more experience I may look at going to some nicer arrows (I think maybe FMJ's?)

Thanks again for all the help! Hope to get a deer soon.

Adam

[Bow Walker]

My buddy shoots FMJ's and he loves them. They're a tad heavy for me nad the Island deer that I hunt, but each to his/her own.

FMJ arrows are slim and very tough that's for sure.