hunting deer & black bear with a 40# recurve?

[ROEBUCK]

so im busy practicing with my hoyt dorado 40# recurve!

im putting all the arrows in the kill zone on my glendel buck target! at 20yards!
20 yards will be my max range!
im drawing 29.5" so im probably getting 45#
im using 1916 lite easton arrows with a montec 100grain broadhead!
what are your thoughts!
what sort of speed will i be getting? will i get enough energy with this set up?
im asking all the knowlegable guys on this site!
not the guys who are internet legands in their own minds!

thanks!

[timbermilton]

i figure you will do just fine with that set-up. my wifes bow is a 40# compound with 25" draw. not a problem on deer out to 30yds. aint got her talked into going after bear with a bow yet so, cant comment on that but i think you will be fine. you useing a stand, blind, or stalk? what montec you useing?

[ROEBUCK]

hi timbermilton
gona use the regular 100 gr montecs .fixed blades!
im gona mainly stalk ! with some treestand hunting!

[Bow Walker]

It's all in shot placement - hit the 'boiler room' and you'll kill it.

I'd suspect that you're running around 150 fps (give or take) and that should be fine. Go to GT's Kinetic Energy calculator and run th numbers to see where you stand.

http://www.goldtip.com/calculators/kinetic.asp

You may want to consider an arrow that's a bit heavier so as to 'up' your KE, but don't go any heavier on the broadheads than you are now. Make sure the heads are really sharp - place your shots carefully - and eat the rewards.

Good luck and let us know how you make out this season.

[tomahawk]

It's all in shot placement - hit the 'boiler room' and you'll kill it.

I'd suspect that you're running around 150 fps (give or take) and that should be fine. Go to GT's Kinetic Energy calculator and run th numbers to see where you stand.

http://www.goldtip.com/calculators/kinetic.asp

You may want to consider an arrow that's a bit heavier so as to 'up' your KE, but don't go any heavier on the broadheads than you are now. Make sure the heads are really sharp - place your shots carefully - and eat the rewards.

Good luck and let us know how you make out this season.

Good sound advice!!

[Bowzone_Mikey]

It's all in shot placement - hit the 'boiler room' and you'll kill it.

I'd suspect that you're running around 150 fps (give or take) and that should be fine. Go to GT's Kinetic Energy calculator and run th numbers to see where you stand.

http://www.goldtip.com/calculators/kinetic.asp

You may want to consider an arrow that's a bit heavier so as to 'up' your KE, but don't go any heavier on the broadheads than you are now. Make sure the heads are really sharp - place your shots carefully - and eat the rewards.

Good luck and let us know how you make out this season.

Yup pretty much ... the only thing I would do differant than the orig poster is go with heavier arrow shafts, with the 1916 you have about a 600 Spine (a tad of the lite side of good for 45 pound recurve)at about 10 GPI with a 29 inch arrow with a 100 grain head a finished arrow weight of about 450 grain giver take some ... I would either add some weight tubes inside the shafts or bump the BH weight to 125 or 150 ..probally both to be honest to get the weight up around 500 or 525 total finished weight .... You wont lose much speed (not that is a consideration in recurve or Trad) but you will gain a Buttload of KE and Momentum

[ROEBUCK]

thanks guys for the good advice !

what arrow shaft size would you recomend?

[J_T]

It's a bit of a soft set up. Acceptable for deer with the right shot, but a bit soft for elk. 150fps is about right out of that bow. if you go to a heavier arrow you will have to practice more as the trajectory will be much more of an arc, but you will increase your energy. Sharp and well placed broadhead is going to be the key. Keep your distances short.

[ROEBUCK]

It's a bit of a soft set up. Acceptable for deer with the right shot, but a bit soft for elk. 150fps is about right out of that bow. if you go to a heavier arrow you will have to practice more as the trajectory will be much more of an arc, but you will increase your energy. Sharp and well placed broadhead is going to be the key. Keep your distances short.

thanks jt

20 yards max at deer and small black bear is my intended!

[Bow Walker]

thanks guys for the good advice !

what arrow shaft size would you recomend?
I'd most likely go with the GT Traditional shafts. Carbon fibres, but with a tradtional wood-type look to them. Tough as nails.

I prefer the pin nocks with the pin nock bushings - but that's just me. For sure I recommend that you fletch them with feathers, though.

http://www.goldtip.com/traditional.htm

[Bowzone_Mikey]

thanks guys for the good advice !

what arrow shaft size would you recomend?

Bow walker loves his GTs and they are great arrows I however am an Easton man


for 45# recurve with 125 grain points I would with something in a 400 Spine like a 2117 sized XX75 Superslam ... they weigh in at about 12 Grains / inch at the end of the day that would put a finished arrow weight right around 500 grains
with a 100 grain Broadhead you are gonna get best flight out of a slighly higher (weaker)spine ie: a 450 or 500 spine model .. I would go with a 2018, they spine out at 469 or so if I recall correctly alum XX75 they weigh in at about 12.5 GPI that will put you close to the grain mark as well (about 475 ball park)

Both will do plenty of damage provided the shooter does his part and I wouldnt hesitate taking that tackle out after moose or Elk either.

in case you dont know and for the benifit of our audiance spine.
Arrow spine is the amount of flex a shaft has when a weight (I beleive its exactly 2 pounds but not 100% certain on that) is suspended in the exact middle of a 28" long shaft. example: arrow flexes 1/2 inch from center then its .500 spine ..arrow flexes 1/4 inch then its a .250 spine... a 1/3 inch then its a .333 spine... in other words the larger spine number the weaker the arrow and typically lighter as well the more it will flex as it is shot. you want a certain amount of flex for proper flight.

[Bow Walker]

Yup, I'm a GT man. :mrgreen:

Gold Tip is within my 'snack bracket'. I can't afford those pricey Eastons.

Plus, to my way of thinking, GT's are just as good (if not better) than Eastons. :wink:

[J_T]

Agree with the carbon arrows. They just provide so much more consistency to the flight over a wood arrow. We owe that to the animal.

If you want to add weight, you can add about 100gr by using an insert. Pay attention to the balance of the arrow though and keep your weight forward.

[Bowzone_Mikey]

Oh ... the reasoning why I am not putting on Carbons ... is weight issue they are typically alot lighter than the alums that I listed .... also a bit cheaper at the end of the day.

however that said ...if you can get a finished arrow weight to 500 or so grains ... the carbons would be awesome as well

[ROEBUCK]

Bow walker loves his GTs and they are great arrows I however am an Easton man


for 45# recurve with 125 grain points I would with something in a 400 Spine like a 2117 sized XX75 Superslam ... they weigh in at about 12 Grains / inch at the end of the day that would put a finished arrow weight right around 500 grains
with a 100 grain Broadhead you are gonna get best flight out of a slighly higher (weaker)spine ie: a 450 or 500 spine model .. I would go with a 2018, they spine out at 469 or so if I recall correctly alum XX75 they weigh in at about 12.5 GPI that will put you close to the grain mark as well (about 475 ball park)

Both will do plenty of damage provided the shooter does his part and I wouldnt hesitate taking that tackle out after moose or Elk either.

in case you dont know and for the benifit of our audiance spine.
Arrow spine is the amount of flex a shaft has when a weight (I beleive its exactly 2 pounds but not 100% certain on that) is suspended in the exact middle of a 28" long shaft. example: arrow flexes 1/2 inch from center then its .500 spine ..arrow flexes 1/4 inch then its a .250 spine... a 1/3 inch then its a .333 spine... in other words the larger spine number the weaker the arrow and typically lighter as well the more it will flex as it is shot. you want a certain amount of flex for proper flight.

thanks mikey

will have to go see ted and get some arrows made up!

[rollingrock]

You arrow should weigh between 400 and 500 grn. Given you draw length, I think 100 gr broadhead is about right. A carbon or aluminum shaft probably will be more efficient than a wooden shaft, but unless you shoot a 'modern' recurve, a wooden arrow made by yourself will make you feel so much better. Arrow lenght, fletch length and fletch point are all very important for a wooden arrow. I tried other club members' carbon arrows and felt my wooden arrows feel so much better.

[J_T]

Oh ... the reasoning why I am not putting on Carbons ... is weight issue they are typically alot lighter than the alums that I listed .... also a bit cheaper at the end of the day.

however that said ...if you can get a finished arrow weight to 500 or so grains ... the carbons would be awesome as well
I run a carbon arrow with a 100 gr brass tip insert and 100 gr polyprop rope inside. 640gr for my 64lb bow. For my 55 lb bow I don't use the poly inside and they hit the scale right on 540. Perfect.

[Bowzone_Mikey]

I run a carbon arrow with a 100 gr brass tip insert and 100 gr polyprop rope inside. 640gr for my 64lb bow. For my 55 lb bow I don't use the poly inside and they hit the scale right on 540. Perfect.

thats great .. and it works for you ... My personal way of thinking is .. why add accesories like insert weight and poly rope when you dont have to ...
with the 100 grain insert and a 100 grain broad head you have aprox 30% weight forward on the 640 grain .. and closer to 50% on the lighter one

I havent seen your arrows or you shoot for that matter ... being the internet and all ... you also dint mention the spine of your shafts ... 200 grains at the tip would call for a pretty stiff arrow for it not to come out like cooked spagetti

[aggiehunter]

Yes I too agree with JT...a little heavier might be the ticket...I've shot his carbons out of my CMate HTD and they shoot sweet and are really quiet...I'm a little shocked he didn't give out the "inside string" secret! JT!