Transom Knowlege Questions

[proguide66]

anyone out there build boats?? er have a wealth of knowledge??...took my boat out for the first time since my log incident...runs fine but i noticed my transom has some 'flex'....now the boat was originally made for inboard , I put a pod on it....above the pod the transom isnt quite 'straight from corner to corner acorss the back...no cracks in the glass but I'm concerned about how much flex is NOT healthy...thinking the ply could have been weakened by the impact??..can post pics of someone out there has experience...want to know what to do...should I put a stiff piece of angle on the inside and bolt with big washers to stiffen....will it last the season then do a re re??....dont want to risk my motors or passesgers of Beal...:?:confused:

[NaStY]

Did you get the motor fixed under insurance?

If so get them to fix the rest of the boat. No sense taking a chance on any of that. Next thing you know the motor will dislodge and sink to the bottom. Then where will you be??? :mrgreen:

Personaly I would cut the transome off and make a new one with reinforcment...

[Jetboater]

Gradys in genarl with a pod have quite a bit of flex in the transom... but you really need to dig into the stringers to find any weakness.... I would notify insurance... and see what they want you to do....

[wolverine]

I used to build and repair boats back in the early '90s and still do some repair work for extra bucks. Post up some photos or PM me with them and lets have a look. Is the flex more than what it used to be and if so how much? Could be an easy fix or you might need to have it ground off and have the ply inspected and possibly replaced and re-enforced. Fab mat with kevlar re-enforced corners should stiffen it right up though, as long as it's done right. Done on the inside you would never see the repair and it will be tougher than Grady ever made it. Chances are though that the ply is fine and you may have cracked the glass under the gel in the corners. An even easier fix if that's the case.

[proguide66]

I used to build and repair boats back in the early '90s and still do some repair work for extra bucks. Post up some photos or PM me with them and lets have a look. Is the flex more than what it used to be and if so how much? Could be an easy fix or you might need to have it ground off and have the ply inspected and possibly replaced and re-enforced. Fab mat with kevlar re-enforced corners should stiffen it right up though, as long as it's done right. Done on the inside you would never see the repair and it will be tougher than Grady ever made it. Chances are though that the ply is fine and you may have cracked the glass under the gel in the corners. An even easier fix if that's the case.
I'll have em up in a few. Yeras back I did an old ' bellbouy' hull , was pretty straight forward , popped the top half off...chiseled out the old shit , cut out and glassed in the new ply...I just want to be able to hit Bamfield for a couple weeks before heading up north....then i'll do whatever it takes...there's no cracks in the glass....but I had my gal steer while I hung at the back...could really notice the flex on the top of the transom...if it wasnt for the original accident I wouldnt even be concerned..maybe it was the same before?? dont know...also dont know how much flex it 'should have' with the new pod/power hanging off it....I'll show how it isnt quite 'straight' acorss it as well...

[proguide66]

first picture shows the only obvious sign of the impact
http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq155/proguide66/transompics006.jpg

http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq155/proguide66/transompics004.jpg
http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq155/proguide66/transompics002.jpg

http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq155/proguide66/transompics001.jpg

i'm 'guessing' this isnt much an issue due to it being the outside 'wings' of the pod?

[proguide66]

next ones I try to show the 'out of square' of the 'top end' of the transom
http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq155/proguide66/transompics005.jpg

I laid a perfectly straight edge of sheet metal from the shop on the 'top' of the hull to show straightness...then the back of the transom to show 'out of straightness'
http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq155/proguide66/transompics007.jpg
http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq155/proguide66/transompics009.jpg
http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq155/proguide66/transompics008.jpg

last pic shows the inside corner of the hull/transom
http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq155/proguide66/transompics010.jpg

[proguide66]

You can see at the first photo why I'm concerned...the seal where the calking/bumperstrip meet is deviated and flexes in/out to3/4" under power...dont think it did this before ..but , there isnt any cracks in the gel coat or the inside...but I really dont like the flexing...want it to be 'tank tough' like those old hulls are supposed to be.

[Shooter]

Was it ever straight across the stern on the transom? Im guessing no and the impact on the leg flexed the pod. The curvature on the transom/pod when flexing up would cause the outsides to crack like that. But as has been said, if the motor was fixed under insurance then the cracks should be fixed under the same claim. I am guessing that they are not that serious but you will still rather not have them I am sure.

In the picture it appears that the pod is just bolted on and not glassed in. If that is the case then likely, as I said it was just the flexing of the rounded (slightly) pod that cracked the sealer on the edges. If it is just sealer that can be dug out and you can not see any fiberglass delamination issues then in all honesty all that is probably needed is to dig it the bad sealer and reseal. I would suggest sealing it with Sikaflex not silicone. Silicone typically breaks done quickly and Sikaflex is just simply a far superior product. The picture of the inside of the transom looks solid still with no cracks that I can see so that is what I am basing my comments on.
I am an automotive painter by trade and have painted a fair few boats and have done a fair amount of glass work as well. That being said this forum is full of knowledge and I am sure there are plenty of guys here that specialize in this sort of thing more than me.

[Shooter]

Wow just reread your last post about it flexing 3/4". If that is the case then something else is amiss. Cus it doesn't matter what sealer is in there if it moves that much it will crack and would have been cracked before if it always moved that much. Its very tough to tell without seeing in person but there must be a weak point there somewhere to allow it to move that far. You need to find the weak point and then find out why it is weak after the collision.

[Shooter]

Is it possible that the motor is not mounted exactly as it was before and in turn instead of pushing directly forward it is pushing the transom slight up or down? Do you notice any difference in the handling or planing abilities?

I really can't see that transom moving that far out of square without showing cracks in the gelcoat or fiberglass on the inside. It would have cracked somewhere other than the sealer around the pod. It must have always been curved a bit.

[proguide66]

Wow just reread your last post about it flexing 3/4". If that is the case then something else is amiss. Cus it doesn't matter what sealer is in there if it moves that much it will crack and would have been cracked before if it always moved that much. Its very tough to tell without seeing in person but there must be a weak point there somewhere to allow it to move that far. You need to find the weak point and then find out why it is weak after the collision.

Thanks for that!
3/4 'might' be pushing it maybe now I'm remembering better...but it still flex's there!...maybe I should pull the bumber strip and re screw the screws through the top/bottom hull?...I'd imagine they broke loose on impact....it WAS one hell of an impact.
the pod is still VERRY solid onto the transom...but the boat IS a '79...old bugger....The motor was never taken off the pod , only the trim assembly.
Was looking up pics on the net and saw some startling transom failure pics..but REAL obvious like cracks going down toward water beside the mounting housing ect and pics of 'pulp' like transom wood...
As said , all the corner details are tight , no stress cracks anywhere...thinking of hitting Port tomarrow for a few days...guess THAT will make er break it:twisted:...wont be abusing it , just hate the feeling of NOT being invinsible out there with the hull.
Was originally wondering if anyone on here had first hand knowlege on the flex issue , thanks for input Shooter!

[proguide66]

ps...it handles same ect..but the photo where I put the straight edge on top of the 'top hull' over the transom , the straight edge fits real good along the top side to side...move the straight edge to the side under the bumper strip , different story.

[Shooter]

I was just looking closer at the pics. In the last pic is that the bolt head to the pod? Something is definitely bent or busted because at rest your pod is sitting out 1/2" or so. If it was just simple flex then at rest the cracks would close. Is that last bolt fully tightened? I would try and remove it and see if that crack opens further as well. Also would allow you to look for cracks around the washer. Is it possible that the impact flexed and actually bent the pod? Taking that bumper strip off to inspect the seam and screws under there is a very good idea also. Can you flex the transom yourself while it is on the trailer? If you can look real close where the transom goes under the cap for movement. At first I thought your straight edge was on the top side of the cap but I see now how the cap is straight along the stern. That cap and transom should fit better and if the transom is bowed out that explains why the cracks stay open at rest. The next question is to figure out where the bow is coming from and it is bowing out under the cap. If it was bowing out anywhere else there would be fiberglass cracks. Look again inside for cracks but look a little further up. Higher like where the hull meets the cap and even up the sides a bit. Bumper strip needs to come off at the very least to start with IMO.

[Statler]

Try putting the motor at a 45 trim and have someone push down on the leg repeatedly while you are checking for the flex you talked about and try to localize it that way. Another method of NDT for your transom is to use a deadblow hammer ( sandfilled mallet) and tap the transom as you are moving across it in a grid pattern. Note any difference in sounds that you may hear. Mark them with a grease pencil or whatever. I think, without actually seeing it, and the pictures of the pod pulled from each end, that my guess would be that the marks may be localized in a vertical pattern roughly about center of the transom. (Note that there will also be a distictive pattern visible that will follow the shape of the pod). This could be an indicator of some structural issues and would possibly warrant a visit to a competent marine surveyor to put your mind at rest. This is JMHO.

[proguide66]

Was just out digging a bit more from the inside.Here's a pic of the inside of the drivers scupper hole under the seperated corner of the pod...looks like some glass separated on impact..doesnt seem to be cracked ply...the oposite side is solid though.
http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq155/proguide66/003-5.jpg

http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq155/proguide66/002-4.jpg

http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq155/proguide66/001-2.jpg

It doesnt look like the things going to 'tear off' does it. As long as I dont buck into it with 4 passengers like a madman....
I dont mind a winter project with the cap off to re do wood...nothing compared to what I have done soo far.....just need to know I can catch some fish for one more harrah before aug.

This is one negative thing about being in Pemby...have to drive for 4 hrs to get anything but deer and potatoes!:evil:..

[Shooter]

Again without seeing it it's tough to say how bad it seems. If it doesn't look too bad to you then just keep an eye on it. If it is flexing that much go easy on it tho. Maybe even mark the end of the cracks with a felt pen and keep a close eye on it to make sure they aren't growing.