The cost of playing???

[Jimsue]

New to the pointy stick game but I really love it. My question to you experts is, do I really have to spend between $100 and $150 for 12 arrows? I have a Bow-Tec Alligance and I swear I will cry if I loose a $10 arrow at a 3d practise night. I have been shooting the Wolverine 5060 arrows from Walmart, they only carry them in the Fall, and I think they are around $4 each. Feel free to call me a cheap p***k but the other half thinks this looks like fun too, and I know she will be good at losing arrows when she starts out.

Thanks in advance,

Jim

[taper arrow]

The best advice is to talk to someone who have alot of archery experience because you do not want to end up buying somthing that you can't shoot. He will tell you where to buy cheap arrows starting from $5-$10 close to your place. If not try Wholesale Sport or any archery shop .there be glad to help you.

[Ruger4]

Work within your budget for now, absolutley nothing wrong with that. Yes there are better arrows, enjoy what you have right now and learn more as you go along and eventually you will become addicted like the rest of us.:mrgreen:.
If your interest progress from here then maybe look at better arrows , rest , release bows etc down the road. If the wife is interested , thats a bonus.
Lots of good tips and pointers from many experienced archers on here.

Call Jonas III , he's the man !! :mrgreen:

[dutchie]

biggest thing is stay with at least the minimum of 5gr per 1lb of draw weight

so if you are shooting 60lb pull... minimum of 300gr arrow feild tip.broadhead, veins, knock.

Dutchie

[Canuck2]

Jimsue, please take careful note of the message below.

I bought a whack of the 5060 Wolverines several years ago as a cheap practice arrow, from Walmart in Colville WA. They served the purpose well for my low poundage target bow (50 lb).

BUT then I started shooting them with my hunting bow set at 60 lb. After awhile, I noticed a loose nock and discovered a hairline crack right where the nock contacted the end of the arrow. This eventually happened to several and I retired each one as I discovered it, as the arrows were compromised. Didn't want one to splinter all through my arm.

So watch it. If you notice any problems at all, I'd bale out.

[aggiehunter]

Shoot those cheap shit arrows until you get real good and then a dozen will last you years....

[horshur]

ive some port orford cedar arrows been shooting for for 4 years and have a dozen complete that are three summers now. I shoot into a sand bank.

not only that but darn kids have been shooting them as well...but the forgiving backstop sure helps and they haven't broke any either.

[huntwriter]

New to the pointy stick game but I really love it. My question to you experts is, do I really have to spend between $100 and $150 for 12 arrows? I have a Bow-Tec Alligance and I swear I will cry if I loose a $10 arrow at a 3d practise night. I have been shooting the Wolverine 5060 arrows from Walmart, they only carry them in the Fall, and I think they are around $4 each. Feel free to call me a cheap p***k but the other half thinks this looks like fun too, and I know she will be good at losing arrows when she starts out.

Thanks in advance,

Jim

Nothing cheap about that. If you just started shooting a bow it makes commonsense to use less expensive arrows until you get familiar with the equipment, shooting and hitting the target. After you get good at it you can go and get the more expensive arrows if you desire, although it is not needed. Most of todays arrows will kill deer with no problems and deer really don't care if they are shot with a $12 arrow or a $4 arrow. Heck, I still shoot aluminum arrows and never had any issue with them not hitting the target or killing a deer. The only difference is that when I loose occasionally an arrow I shrug my shoulders and say "so what", while my friend shooting top-of-the-line carbon composite arrows gets an anxiety attack.:-D

[BiG Boar]

The key to not losing arrows is not missing. Get a few bales of straw set up and shoot at 20 yards until youre really good. Then you will progress to farther distances and a shot blocker more portable target. Then you will be ready, and probably wont lose too many. I lost my first arrow the other night. I nearly cried....

[huntwriter]

I bought a whack of the 5060 Wolverines several years ago as a cheap practice arrow, from Walmart in Colville WA. They served the purpose well for my low poundage target bow (50 lb).

BUT then I started shooting them with my hunting bow set at 60 lb. After awhile, I noticed a loose nock and discovered a hairline crack right where the nock contacted the end of the arrow. This eventually happened to several and I retired each one as I discovered it, as the arrows were compromised. Didn't want one to splinter all through my arm.

So watch it. If you notice any problems at all, I'd bale out.

I do not know the 5060 Wolverine arrow, but could it be that the arrow was not built for 60 pound draw weight. Before using an arrow on a higher poundage bow always make sure the arrow is built for it. It should say on the arrow or package for what weight bracket the arrows are good for.

[Bowzone_Mikey]

the wolverines are made by Carbon Express and are not a terrible Arrow ...they are however allready cut to lenth(29 or 30) and insert installed and fletched ... I think with 4" vanes .... Ok I guess for a begginer but as you get better you will want to expiriment with differant lenths and fletch combos to get better accuracy out of them.

The reason why they are "cheap" (wallmart buying power notwithstanding)is that they are not matched and have a larger span of weight tolerances as well as spine tolerances. But for a beginner just to fling arrows ... they are not terrible

[Bowzone_Mikey]

I do not know the 5060 Wolverine arrow, but could it be that the arrow was not built for 60 pound draw weight. Before using an arrow on a higher poundage bow always make sure the arrow is built for it. It should say on the arrow or package for what weight bracket the arrows are good for.

they are made by CX ... 5060 series are good spine for 50 - 60 pound bows when cut to 29" shaft (basically a .400 deflection or spine)

[huntwriter]

they are made by CX ... 5060 series are good spine for 50 - 60 pound bows when cut to 29" shaft (basically a .400 deflection or spine)

I somehow just knew that you would come up with the answer.:mrgreen: Thanks!

[Rectifier]

I'm new to this game too and ended up paying $100 flat for a dozen CF200 x-weave (cut to size w/inserts,field points,blazer vanes). About 8 bucks a stick, I guess I paid twice as much as you! Oh well. They are a sturdy arrow that a lot of guys are using around here.

I haven't "lost" one yet but I have Robin Hooded 2 - I would recommend getting a multi-spot target as soon as your groups start getting close or you will kick yourself when you make too good of a shot...

[huntwriter]

I have Robin Hooded 2 That is the only time when I get hopping mad. Wasting two arrows for nothing. A multi-spot target is definitely the way to go. The other day my friend asked me, "Why do you shoot each arrow into a different spot?" I answered, "Because I am scared I might make a Robin Hood if I shoot two arrows at the same spot, or failing that I'll shoot so close that it shaves the vanes off the other arrow." Call me cheap but I absolutely despise wasting money. It's the only thing that makes me really mad. Heck I still pick pennies off of the street that other people toss away. I took a jar full of found pennies to the bank the other day and it was enough to buy a box of ammo.:-D

[The Hermit]

Hummm multispot targets eh... this is just my opinion and current thinking but I don't practice with any spots anymore... other than fawns and leopards most animals don't have "spots". Sounds silly but if you are always aiming at a "target spot" you might get messed up shooting at your game!

[Rectifier]

If you are a cheap guy then you'll love this one (experienced guys probably know this one but ), I took a 60cm paper target and traced the inner colored rings out onto a piece of burlap with wax crayons (waterproof), made a 5-spot that covers most of the butt ;) The burlap is really robust against arrows. I can shoot all year without buying more targets, in the rain too!

Only cost me 5 bucks and I still have enough burlap left for 2 more butt-loads :mrgreen: I think I'm going to use it to make a buck and an assorted small game target (bunnies/squirrels/birds etc)

I'd take credit for the idea but I got the tip from another guy at the range who beat me to it. He used fabric markers instead of crayons though - i am even cheaper, ha!

[Rectifier]

Hey Hermit this is the target section eh?

Hah but I agree, I am shooting spots to practice my form mainly, I plan to get into 3d pretty soon. Spots are a good way to score and compare your progress when getting started, I think - easy to see when you're having a bad day, and just how bad it is

[hardnocks]

Hummm multispot targets eh... this is just my opinion and current thinking but I don't practice with any spots anymore... other than fawns and leopards most animals don't have "spots". Sounds silly but if you are always aiming at a "target spot" you might get messed up shooting at your game!
that make absolutely no sense at all.

you don`t really save money buying cheap arrows . especially if you get into the 3d game . and if you worry about loosing a 10 dollar arrow do not start .
you don`t need a top of the line arrow . just a tough one

seems like a recent canadian champ had a rough day this past sunday in salmon arm . lost or broke all his arrows .

[bowhunterbruce]

when i first started playing i would come home from work and fling arrows at my 20 yard target in my driveway.i hung 2 lumber tarp filled burlap sacks from my mirrors on my camper and my foam target in front of them.doing this added the callenge of makeing sure of every shot was well thought out as if i missed, i wouldn't put 1 into the camper.
after only a couple weeks i was out to 35 yards and grouping 5 out of 6 of them within a 2 inch circle.
once going to a few 3d shoots that first year i found that losing and breaking arrows was part of playing the game andnthat first 3d season i went through a couple dozen arrows.on the bright side of it though i did harvest all 3 of my deer that year with my bow 1-4 pt and 3 pt muley and a 2 point whitey.and all three were complete pass thrus rangeing from 35 to 57 yards.
the price that year for playing was costly on the cash side yet no amount of cash could make me feel like i did from what i had achived.
everyone here has given ya some excelent advice and you will find your own rewards for your efforts,the more you put into it ,the more you will be rewarded.
arrows can be real costly,however once you find the arrows (weight,front of center balance point,fletching,tips,spine)you will see a huge differance in how tight is possible to group those arrows.
at this point though i would seggest getting a reasonabley inexpencive set of something close to what your gonna use come hunting season(if thats what your after)and practice alot at short ranges until you start getting tired.keep a good safe backstop behind your target thats easy on your missed arrows and once your groups start getting tighter use different spots to focus on.
goodluck
bruce

[Ruger4]

Hummm multispot targets eh... this is just my opinion and current thinking but I don't practice with any spots anymore... other than fawns and leopards most animals don't have "spots". Sounds silly but if you are always aiming at a "target spot" you might get messed up shooting at your game!

I use golf tee's for target practice , seems to have worked out quite well for both 3D and critters. Try it , you'll be a better shooter quickly losing less arrows at the same time !

[Ruger4]

I somehow just knew that you would come up with the answer.:mrgreen: Thanks!

lots of easy good info at your fingertips

[Ruger4]

seems like a recent canadian champ had a rough day this past sunday in salmon arm . lost or broke all his arrows .

sometimes tough to get 100% passing through a tree(s) to find the 10 ring

[hardnocks]

sometimes tough to get 100% passing through a tree(s) to find the 10 ring
their was a hole at every shot . their was a few kinda rugged i must admit

[Ruger4]

their was a hole at every shot . their was a few kinda rugged i must admit

:mrgreen: It was a good solid 40 target challenging course , I enjoyed it !!
dam javalina !! :mrgreen:

[Jimsue]

Thank you all for the wealth of information, I have noticed a few of my current walmart specials spliting on the nock end , but its usually after a miss, I do retire them.
I was in the new wholesale sports in Langley yesterday lots in the $100 range for a doz.

Thanks again to everyone.

Jim

[Bowzone_Mikey]

yes .. retire all cracked arrows ..... last thing you want is a carbon infused hand when it explodes at release ...

[Bow Walker]

Using "lesser expensive" arrows is not a crime. It's "frugal", which (in my humble opinion) is a good thing. I'm as tight-fisted as they come.

But - you've really got to match the over all weight of the arrow to your bow's poundage. In fact, it's critical to the proper operational mechanics of the bow.....(did i just say that out loud?)

Make sure that your arrows weigh at least 5 or 6 grains per pound of bow draw weight. If they are below the 5 grain-per-pound mark you're putting way too much stress on the bow and you're also using arrows that will be below the spine setting that you should be using.

Light arrows are noisy, when shooting, and they don't fly or stabilize properly during flight at all. Your accuracy will suffer and you're running the very real risk of doing some significant injury to yourself when the light arrow 'blows up' during the release.

Have a look at Gold Tip Expedition Hunters in the 5575 spine weight. You shoud be able to get them for less than $80.00 per dozen - cut to length, inserts installed, and fletched, ready to shoot. If you can't find them where you live, PM me for more info.

Where do toy live, anyway? We should be able to recommend a decent archery shop near you.

I have used Gold Tip arrows for over 15 years now, in fact that's all I use. I have found them to be one of the toughest (if not the toughest) arrow that I can find, and they fit my budget as well.

I started building my own arrows a long time ago (to save some money) and now I don't buy "ready-made" arrows any more at all. It's easy to get started and not that expensive, either. It sounds like you'd be wise to invest in a cut-off saw and a fletching jig, especially if your wife gets into the sport. Best of all - anyone can build good arrows if they've got a bit of patience. The investment pays for itself very quickly.

[Jimsue]

When I was in WS I noticed most of the arrows were Korean or Chinese made, cost out of China is $1 each, I have 2 inquires in waiting for a response. Nothing ventured nothing gained.

[jessbennett]

I do not know the 5060 Wolverine arrow, but could it be that the arrow was not built for 60 pound draw weight. Before using an arrow on a higher poundage bow always make sure the arrow is built for it. It should say on the arrow or package for what weight bracket the arrows are good for.


the arrow does say what it is good for. 5060 which means 50 to 60 lbs.

[hardnocks]

frugal is buying a good tough arrow . If you play the 3d game you need an arrow that can stand a bit of abuse . Try some in the middle of the price range.

[Bow Walker]

You can't find a tougher arrow for the money than Gold Tip Expedition Hunter or their XT Hunter. They're available for less than $50.00/doz.

[hardnocks]

You can't find a tougher arrow for the money than Gold Tip Expedition Hunter or their XT Hunter. They're available for less than $50.00/doz.

50.00 /doz you must be drinking to much magic mushroom tea

[Bow Walker]

Sorry - I neglected to put usd's in the price. But our dolar is very strong right now.