Bows & Bowhunting for dummies

[LeverActionJunkie]

I was wondering if the archers here would like to lend some of there sage advice to those of us just starting out on the Archery path. I am looking at getting myself set up to try some bowhunting and am getting overwhelmed with all the different bows, rests, sights, cams, releases, arrows, etc.

Anyways I thought there might be others out there in the same boat as me and thought that we could have a thread to get all these questions answered instead of a whole bunch of the same threads. ( maybe thats exactly what this is, who knows:) )

I had originally wanted to get into traditional archery right away, but the way things have been I just don't have the spare time to begin there. So I figured I would begin with a compound and see how I like it. I was thinking of getting a package deal once I figure out exactly what I want but there are a hell of a lot of options out there. Any pointers or advice on what some pro's and cons are of different set ups?

Once I can narrow my search a little I plan on heading to an archery shop wear I can test some options out on targets. There isn't much in the way of that around here so I want to have an Idea of what I want before I drive somewhere. The house I just bought has an archery range of sorts on it so once I'm set up and get a target block I will be able to practice most nights after work. so long as I can keep the war dept. off my back:)

Anyways thanks for any help or insight you can provide. Any other newbies with ques feel free to ask them here as well.

[Ruger4]

check out www.archerytalk.com (http://www.archerytalk.com) , register and fill your boots !!

[Bow Walker]

Myself (and a few others here) enjoy helping new archers. Great idea, BTW, getting a package deal, it will get you going with everything you will need to start practising.

First, though, we'll need some more info in order to help you with your choice of package bows. What's your draw length? (Wingspan divided by 2.5)...answer will be in the inches, and will get you started.

From there maybe we can help with your choice(s) and maybe give some advice on setting it up - if there is no one within reasonable distance, that is.

Mostly, though, it's a matter of a lot of practice and attending a few 3D shoots.

[MikeH]

The best thing to do not sure if "Kamloops has" a Archery club/pro shop would be to join it that way you can try compound, recurve or longbow.That would be your best bet or go to the nearest pro shop and have them help you setup.

[Jagermeister]

LAJ, see Tim's Archery World in Chase. Hoyt bow shop.

[hardnocks]

go to westside store in salmon arm . its a pretty well stocked store.

[LeverActionJunkie]

Ok so my gf measured my "wingspan" from middle finger to middle finger and came up with 72", so divided by 2.5 I get 28.8".

I don't know of any archery shops in Kamloops, except wholesale sports but I don't trust them much. I will have to check out Tim's Archery in Chase as Jagermeister suggested. Must admit I didn't know it was there.

I was thinking of something with fairly high let off % so I can work on shooting form etc. while conditioning my body to shooting. Don't know if this makes sense or not.

Are there bows that allow easy adjustment of Draw length, let-off etc without special equipment.

Thanks.

[Grantmac]

Don't be too quick to throw away the idea of starting with a traditional set-up.

If you can get out and practice even a couple of nights a week consistently then it will not take long to pick-up. Constant good practice is what makes a good archer, not the equipment.

Your range will always be less with a traditional bow, but if you work within your limitations there is nothing you can make more dead with a compound.

-Grant

[Kirby]

For guys getting into the sport, best bet is to meet up with somebody and have a talk. Try to get as many opinions as possible, and learn as much as possible.

I've sent you a PM.

Kirby

[LeverActionJunkie]

Thanks for the helps so far guys I really appreciate it.

I haven't totally given up on the Idea of starting off traditional I think that it would be a great challenge and very rewarding. I was told to start with a bow of around 20-25# and work up. First off i haven't seen to many 25# bows advertised, and then I would need another bow or two to get up to legal hunting poundage. My old lady is not too stoked on me spending all kinds of $$, but a guy can always ask forgiveness:)

Thanks again.


Does anybody else have any Archery questions????

[Triggerman]

I bought my first bow which was 2 years old at the time (Solocam Hoyt) and it was great and I used it my first 4 years and killed some nice animals with it. Don't get too caught up in hype. If you are money concious pick a solid 2 year old Mathews, Hoyt or PSE and shoot it as much as you can! try a 50-55 lb draw weight and that will kill pretty well everything. I highly suggest getting a good wrist release and not have to switch to a "better one" if you start with a crappy one.

Good luck and join a 3D club or Archer club if one's accessible.:)

[Bow Walker]

The let-off of most bows (these days) is 80%. I'd go with a bow that tops out at 60 lbs. That'll let you draw and hold easily, allowing you to work on your form and conditioning.

See if you can find a Diamond Razor's Edge. It'll give you all the adjustability that you require and it will be a bow that will not out grow you...
http://www.diamondarchery.com/bow_razoredge_2010.php



Ok so my gf measured my "wingspan" from middle finger to middle finger and came up with 72", so divided by 2.5 I get 28.8".

I don't know of any archery shops in Kamloops, except wholesale sports but I don't trust them much. I will have to check out Tim's Archery in Chase as Jagermeister suggested. Must admit I didn't know it was there.

I was thinking of something with fairly high let off % so I can work on shooting form etc. while conditioning my body to shooting. Don't know if this makes sense or not.

Are there bows that allow easy adjustment of Draw length, let-off etc without special equipment.

Thanks.

[Jehiah]

Im new to archery as well but Ive just finished my first year of it and managed to hunt too. Here is what I have found out thus far.
Go straight to whatever you plan on hunting/target shooting with (sounds like compound is primary for you and trad will be hobby material).
For compound its all about noise reduction and speed. Choose a bow with a draw length that fits you (get measured in an archery shop - if you buy used know that they can get "shot out" the limbs slack and degrade over time and shooting - think 5 years old or younger).
next, buy your arrows - make sure the spine is appropriate. have the arrows cut to length (mark the arrow at full draw then cut) and start with 100gr fieldpoints. Get the 2 inch fletch and have them only slightly helical. Get rad colours :)

Rest: drop away is best for accuracy and speed (very little interference with arrow; but, if you are a still hunter you may want to go with the whisker buiscut (way more interference - short fletch reduces this - but you can do backflips without flopping your arrow.

Sight: get a good one. avoid package deals; the sights lack luster most of the time! you want a bright 0.19 fiber optic 5 pin sight (some 3D shoots restrict you to 3 pin so consider this if appropriate). It is best if the fiber optics are shielded. Get a G5 peep. It goes right into the serving. no hassles once installed.

Stabalizer: I really dont know. I just get the coolest sounding one. I think a forward post shot effect is desired. These can reduce recoil and sound substantially.

Release: Pretty much preference. But required on a compound. They hook onto a D loop. Try a few on and get a feel. You cannot afford to "punch the trigger so everything must be crisp - there are thumb releases if you struggle.

Have fun tuning and sighting in. search other threads for tuning tips.
oh. and DO get an armguard.
Hope this helps.

[Bow Walker]

Im new to archery as well but Ive just finished my first year of it and managed to hunt too. Here is what I have found out thus far.
Go straight to whatever you plan on hunting/target shooting with (sounds like compound is primary for you and trad will be hobby material).
For compound its all about noise reduction and speed. Choose a bow with a draw length that fits you (get measured in an archery shop - if you buy used know that they can get "shot out" the limbs slack and degrade over time and shooting - think 5 years old or younger).
next, buy your arrows - make sure the spine is appropriate. have the arrows cut to length (mark the arrow at full draw then cut) and start with 100gr fieldpoints. Get the 2 inch fletch and have them only slightly helical. Get rad colours :)

Rest: drop away is best for accuracy and speed (very little interference with arrow; but, if you are a still hunter you may want to go with the whisker buiscut (way more interference - short fletch reduces this - but you can do backflips without flopping your arrow.

Sight: get a good one. avoid package deals; the sights lack luster most of the time! you want a bright 0.19 fiber optic 5 pin sight (some 3D shoots restrict you to 3 pin so consider this if appropriate). It is best if the fiber optics are shielded. Get a G5 peep. It goes right into the serving. no hassles once installed.

Stabalizer: I really dont know. I just get the coolest sounding one. I think a forward post shot effect is desired. These can reduce recoil and sound substantially.

Release: Pretty much preference. But required on a compound. They hook onto a D loop. Try a few on and get a feel. You cannot afford to "punch the trigger so everything must be crisp - there are thumb releases if you struggle.

Have fun tuning and sighting in. search other threads for tuning tips.
oh. and DO get an armguard.
Hope this helps.
I agree - for the most part - on what Jehiah is saying...although not necessarily in the order stated.:wink:

1. Bow....good advice, to consider what will be your primary use for the bow before you buy it. If you intend to hunt, look at bows with a maximum peak weight of 60lbs - no matter how 'macho' you are (or feel). Also, your hunting bow will make a great 3D bow.

When hunting, you only get to shoot once (twice if you miss the first one) and that shot is with "cold" muscles, and under a lot of stress and pressure. You do not want the animal seeing you struggle just to draw your bow - you do want to be able to draw smoothly and quietly, under any circumstances. Plus - 50 - 60 lbs is ample to kill anything that walks, wriggles, or crawls on this continent.

2. Bow Sight...I've yet to run into a 3D shoot that has a pin restriction. Yes, there are differing classes, such as Hunter, Unlimited,...etc. but I haven't seen any restrictions on the number of pins.

5-pins is, IMHO, the best for hunting. The pin-size of .019 is perfect for the first 3 pins. The other 2 pins might be better with .010 size fiber optic threads - it's really a matter of preference, but I don't like the larger pin-size covering up my intended P.O.I. when shooting at longer distances.

An example of a good, sturdy, and "pretty much bullet-proof" sight are the ones from Spot Hogg.

3. Arrow Rest...Personally I use a "full containment" style of "drop away" rest (an APA Safari Twister), but IMO the best hunting rest is the Whisker Biscuit. Yes, you sacrifice a few feet of speed, but you gain a whole heckova lot of other benefits that far out-weigh the speed loss.

Now...drop-away rest are mounted behind the arrow shelf and because of this you can have an arrow that is cut shorter than your actual draw length. For example; my draw length is 28.5" and my arrow are cut to 27" because of where my arrow rest is mounted. This gives me a bit more speed yet still allows ample broadhead clearance.

So get your arrow rest on the bow before you get measured for arrows.

4. Stabilizer...mostly (these days) stabilizers are there for the vibration dampening effect, rather than stabilizing the bow (unless you shoot strictly target), so look for one that is shorter in length, but offers plenty of vibration killing abilities.

5. Wrist Sling...GET ONE, USE IT. It'll give you the confidence that is required to be able to hold your bow lightly (not in a death grip) so that you do not impart hand torque while shooting. Hand torque is a killer for accuracy, and hunting is all about accuracy.

6. Mechanical Release...Yes, a "must have" if you shoot compound. Although I know a few people who are accurate just shooting with fingers, but they practice a LOT. As mentioned, releases are a matter of personal preference. I use releases made by Jim Fletcher. I've found them to be very reliable.

Also - use a "D" loop for attaching your release to the string. Shooting straight off the string with a release will cause pre-mature wear and tear on your bow string serving. Not the case with D loops.

7. Bow Tuning...learn how to do it - or get it done by someone who knows how to do it. A well tuned bow (tuned to your personal shooting style) will be much more accurate than a bow "off the shelf". Plus, a bow that is tuned to "you" will be a pleasure to shoot and not cause you to dread practice sessions which are vital to accuracy.

Now go get 'em, and have fun! :mrgreen:

[spc]

LeverActionJunkie are you a member of the Kamloops Target Sports Assoc? Archery is one of our disciplines with members involved in bowhunting and target archery. Members meet most Tuesday evening for a group practice. Indoor in the winter and outdoor in good weather. Come out one evening and check it out.

http://www.ktsa.ca/disciplines.htm

[Lil Bow Pete]

LAJ I started with a compound in 81 but went to a recurve in 87. I don't know much about hi-tech bows of today. I live in Kamloops and have lots of bows. Even my old compound. If you want to try some different stuff and see what you like, get in touch with me and i will help you if I can.