Cargo trailer conversion started

[tav611]

Good morning and happy hunting. As the title says my friends and I bought a cargo trailer. It’s a 16x8. It tandem axel a side door and two doorS in the back. We did want one with a ramp but it didn’t happen. It has one vent and basic electrical for a couple lights with a on/off switch. We have flipped the axels which gave us a lot more clearance. Have changed the brakes and drum assemble. So from a mechanical point of view it should be good for some years to come. We now have planned to insulate. Plan on using 1 inch foam with the reflective material. We did plan on adding windows but the support beams are only 14 inches apart and are hesitant to actually start cutting away at the trailer. So for this year we plan on just insulating. We did think about just in the mean time building a half door with a window in it ,out of 2x4s that we could just slide in when we are parked and keep one of the back door open. Any thoughts on this anyone ever done that? Also do you guys recommend getting cots and if so what type or building platform out of 2x4 and plywood and topping it with a foam pad. Any input would be appreciated. I have seen some of the builds on here and they look great. Just don’t have the time to spend on the build this year and get out hunting. So decided to keep it as simple as we can for this year and add to when we can. We plan on using a generator/ electric heater for heat. Adding a 10x20 pop up to the back for cooking chilling area. Any thoughts ?

[cdub]

Spray foam if you can, or make sure you seal well between inside and the outer skin. They will condense if not sealed.

[tav611]

Spray foam if you can, or make sure you seal well between inside and the outer skin. They will condense if not sealed.

I will try to price it out you think buying the large containers from home depot would work ok and be cost effective ?

[Ubertuber]

My trailer has the rear barn doors as well. Much handier and useful than a ramp as far as I'm concerned.
I would consider using the spray foam on the underside and maybe the wall seams and inside corners. I used rigid reflective foam for insulation in the walls. It's cheap, simple to install, and works good.
Make sure you run any and all wiring you may want before you button up the walls.
Windows are must for me. When I installed the windows, I cut the steel studs and made a steel frame for the studs to sit on to maintain stud strength. A tack with a welder held it all in place.
I use a combination of built-in-bed/seating area, and cots for sleeping. Get the best foam you can afford.
Cupboards were bought off Craigslist.
Other things to consider:
200W of solar.
LED lighting.
Magic fan vent.
Diesel heater.

Have fun with the build..

[ACE]

Is this a new trailer?
Brand/manufacturer?

[REMINGTON JIM]

Quote : My trailer has the rear barn doors as well. Much handier and useful than a ramp as far as I'm concerned.

The Ramp door makes a Very nice outdoor patio when the Weather is Nice . My Bud attached a tarp to the top of the trailer and then had corner poles and the tarp hooked into them Ties them off to the side and had a Real nice spot out of the sun and rain when it wasn't as Nice out ! RJ

Don't need ramps to drive the quads in and out either with the ramp door !

[tav611]

Is this a new trailer?
Brand/manufacturer?

it’s a 2008 cargo mate tandem axel

[DesiMunda]

I converted my cargo trailer 3-4 yrs ago and the upgrades never end. Do not go the cot route if you value a good nights sleep, I only used my cots for one hunting season and out it went. Plywood, 2x4’s and a decent foam pad is the best way to go. Also would recommend that you run all the wiring (LED lights, switches etc) before you insulate and reinstall the plywood. I ran 12volt and 120 with multiple outlets (USB outlets), 120 works great when using generator, or if you want to run a microwave or a mini fridge.


Something to plan for.......I have 400 a watt solar panel (roof mounted) with 4x 6volt deep cycles....runs lights, charging station, mini fridge day and night... I run microwave off generator.. Propane cook top, small sink with 12volts pump for water.....etc.


I also installed a window that I picked up from Kitts Trailer....it fits between the metal studs...


As you use your trailer, you’ll learn what you’ll need and add things over time.


All the best and good luck with the conversion..


Mak

[ACE]

Looked on the Cargo Mate website . . . . some nice units.
Have been thinking of getting a good used unit and do as tav611 is doing.
Maybe a winter project . . .

[BCHoyt]

We are in the process of looking for a 6X12 V-nose to convert. Ive seen windows that people have mounted between the support beams so you wouldnt have to cut into them at all and comprimise any structure or have to weld in cross braces if you have to go thru a beam. As for insulation I will also be pricing out spray foam but most likey will be going with 1" rigid foam, and spray insulation from the cans for the tight spots. For the building structure inside Im going to price out the aluminum t-track I think its called. 2x4 and 2x2 if going with wood. Make sure whatever your bed is laying on is either has slats or some other form of venting underneath it. Ive seen 2" wholesaw cut outs in a pattern before also.

How hard was it to do the axle flip as thats the first thing I want to do when we get ours. Figure it will be easier with the lighter trailer before all the interior is being built out.

[tav611]

We are in the process of looking for a 6X12 V-nose to convert. Ive seen windows that people have mounted between the support beams so you wouldnt have to cut into them at all and comprimise any structure or have to weld in cross braces if you have to go thru a beam. As for insulation I will also be pricing out spray foam but most likey will be going with 1" rigid foam, and spray insulation from the cans for the tight spots. For the building structure inside Im going to price out the aluminum t-track I think its called. 2x4 and 2x2 if going with wood. Make sure whatever your bed is laying on is either has slats or some other form of venting underneath it. Ive seen 2" wholesaw cut outs in a pattern before also.

How hard was it to do the axle flip as thats the first thing I want to do when we get ours. Figure it will be easier with the lighter trailer before all the interior is being built out.


we had e and h hitch flip them 500 bucks for dual axle

[MRP]

We are in the process of looking for a 6X12 V-nose to convert. Ive seen windows that people have mounted between the support beams so you wouldnt have to cut into them at all and comprimise any structure or have to weld in cross braces if you have to go thru a beam. As for insulation I will also be pricing out spray foam but most likey will be going with 1" rigid foam, and spray insulation from the cans for the tight spots. For the building structure inside Im going to price out the aluminum t-track I think its called. 2x4 and 2x2 if going with wood. Make sure whatever your bed is laying on is either has slats or some other form of venting underneath it. Ive seen 2" wholesaw cut outs in a pattern before also.

How hard was it to do the axle flip as thats the first thing I want to do when we get ours. Figure it will be easier with the lighter trailer before all the interior is being built out.

Technically you don't flip the axles people who do this usually have extreme tire wear problems. The axles have a camber in them and only go on one side up. You're just mounting the Springs from below the axles to the top of the axle. If the spring hanger mounts are on both sides of the axle it can be like a two-hour job for a couple of guys. If there's not a spring hanger mount on both sides of the axle you have to buy some and weld them on. Done several of these and their no big deal. Wire brush the ubolt threads. Lub therads 50 50 mix atf and acetone, if thay look like they have lots of rock dents in the threads use a thread die on them. You will have to undo tge brake lines most times, heat shrink or silacone the connection after. While you're in there, check the brakes and wash and grease the bearings, get the numbers off the bearings and by at least one spare pack it in Grease and keep it squirreled away somewhere in the trailer. This can save you a lot of driving when your way out in the middle of nowhere.

PS also check the nylon bushings in the eye holes on the springs, but usely only over loaded or high mileage trailers need these replaced. Pennys now or $$$ later.

[REMINGTON JIM]

Technically you don't flip the axles people who do this usually have extreme tire wear problems. The axles have a camber in them and only go on one side up. You're just mounting the Springs from below the axles to the top of the axle. If the spring hanger mounts are on both sides of the axle it can be like a two-hour job for a couple of guys. If there's not a spring hanger mount on both sides of the axle you have to buy some and weld them on. Done several of these and their no big deal. While you're in there, check the brakes and wash and grease the bearings, get the numbers off the bearings and by at least one spare pack it in Greece and keep it squirreled away somewhere in the trailer. This can save you a lot of driving when your way out in the middle of nowhere.

Exactley - Princess auto has spring perches and EVERY thing else you might need for suspension and brake work too !
The wheel hubs with bearings and seal in it are CHEAP when on SALE - i would pack one of those too ! jmo RJ

[bcsteve]

Have a look at this forum for great ideas. I have a 6x12 I converted to take my kids camping and hunting.

http://www.tnttt.com/viewforum.php?f=42&sid=3b777136c5ec21c919d414a56b78d6c9