DIY - anybody replaced a travel trailer roof?

[one-shot-wonder]

As per the subject, any advice on tackling a roof replacement project? Vinyl/rubber membrane roof.. Fibreglass walls. Best way to confirm if mold is present and/or the extent of it?

What would you do differently next time?

TIA

[labguy]

Depending on how particular (fussy) you are and how capable you are it’s a huge job. There will ALWAYS be a lot more too it than originally meets they eye. Done it once and never again. ( I’m an ex contractor with years of experience building homes and condos).

A leaking roof will most likely mean rotting walls and possibly a rotting floor as water runs down hill and the evidence NEVER shows up until a lot of damage has been done.

Not to discourage you but being realistic I would look at other alternatives. I.E. Sell and take your losses and next time do yearly maintenance both on the roof and on the walls so leaks never occur.

Travel trailers are ALL junk....just varying degrees of junk.

[S.W.A.T.]

To me it's one of those things that are best left to the pros. Usually you can find a good backyard TV guy that does it pretty cheap compared to the dealers. It's a messy job and its something you want done right. I watched my father in law struggle with his all summer, first it was getting the good quality sealant, the removing the old roof and applying the new, frantically tarping between rainstorms. Depending on the size it can be a big time consuming job.

[boxhitch]

If its just a matter of new skin and substrate , its pretty straight forward
If it involves structure and walls and inside finish and and and
but once it is apart, its part of the way to the landfill anyways

[WWBC]

There are some cool new two part self levelling deck membranes that are rated to be used over living space.
I forget the product name but I did a deck with it this summer and I was impressed.

might be the best/easiest option because there’s no complicated detailing like with other roof products

edit: The deck product was Flexstone. It’s not cheap but the install very easy and fast.

[one-shot-wonder]

Good comments... I have a 44' garage to work in so not worried about elements. It's not my trailer but one I am looking into buying cause price is right if your handy. Jayco has aluminum stud/trusses with rigid foam insulation, has me less worried than originally. Throw away existing plywood and replace with new 3/8"ply.. Buy membrane roll and apply adhesive glue... Could it be that easy?
I'm not naive, but don't mind tinkering at a DIY project.

[boxhitch]

I have a 20 ft that needs a roof, wood frame and osb, but it is still waterproof for the most part and owes us nothing, so likely will drag it til it doesn't follow
Good you have a large work space, height can be an issue

[Drillbit]

I think the way to repair an RV trailer roof, even preventative maintenance on a new one, is with Linex/Ryno/Raptor spray.

Also, the way to go for the inside of enclosed trailers.

[tim3500]

Doing a 36 ft keystone Everest 5th wheel trailer took me aprox 6 days to layup a new roof and upgrade the insulation fabric was about $2900 including supplies look es like New good for another 15-20 years main roof wasn't a problem but the slides were a little trickier.

[Edzzed]

We have an 08 and our roof never leaked. When it was days old to us I bought a large roll of eternabond tape. I sealed every part imaginable and re-caulk the windows every 3 years. I use that futureme.org to send myself reminders of when things are due to be done.

[338win mag]

I am just finishing up an 8ft camper I custom made for myself, all plywood or osb, no tin. Tin sweats and causes rot and mildew so thats the reasoning.
I sealed the unit with liquid rubber, the black stuff is thicker and I used it on the roof and about 6" down each side.
Then I used the white stuff on the walls, its thinner so I thought it would be fine on the walls.

Then to reflect the heat on the black roof I went over the roof with the white and that worked good so....several coats on all surfaces cost me about $250-$300.
No leaks, and its good for 5 years and can be touched up easy and cheap.

Another option to think about....re-plywood then get a duradeck installer to put duradeck over it, its pricey but I checked into it and its an option especially if a pro puts it on and folds the corners properly. If you don't care about color then you may find an installer who has a part roll and you can get that at a discount.

One more option I checked into and almost did...put a torch on membrane over the plywood, get a pro to put that on too, its abit heavy and pricey too. If you know someone in the business you may get the material cheap, like I got a part roll of the membrane from a torch on buddy for free, and he would of torched it on for me for a bottle on a saturday.
The membrane is the kind they put on over a deck before pouring concrete over it, its about 3/16" thick or so.
Hope this gives you some idea's.

[Downwindtracker2]

Run, not walk, away. Free would be too expensive. I did that on a tent trailer, new box and rubber membrane. The latex glue they recommended for the membrane didn't stick,. If someone held a gun to my head and I had to do it again I would use old fashioned solvent based contact cement.

[ghost]

Replaced part of my 5 wheel roof wasn’t that hard didn’t have to replace any structural wood just plywood on roof and glue down a section

[338win mag]

The torch on membrane will not lift off without ripping a ply off the plywood.

[one-shot-wonder]

Doing a 36 ft keystone Everest 5th wheel trailer took me aprox 6 days to layup a new roof and upgrade the insulation fabric was about $2900 including supplies look es like New good for another 15-20 years main roof wasn't a problem but the slides were a little trickier.
6 days! Was that all day, everyday? I heard this roof job in the industry pays out about 35 hrs labour. Thankfully no slides, with aluminum studs/trusses, I am hoping it is pretty straight forward, just plywood and membrane replacement.

[one-shot-wonder]

We have an 08 and our roof never leaked. When it was days old to us I bought a large roll of eternabond tape. I sealed every part imaginable and re-caulk the windows every 3 years. I use that futureme.org to send myself reminders of when things are due to be done.

I'm not surprised, my 2011 that I am selling has a perfect roof, it helps that I store it indoors, but also that I perform regular maintenance. So mnay owners neglect basic maintenance, it's not a wonder why roofs are shot on trailers that aren't even that old.

[one-shot-wonder]

I am just finishing up an 8ft camper I custom made for myself, all plywood or osb, no tin. Tin sweats and causes rot and mildew so thats the reasoning.
I sealed the unit with liquid rubber, the black stuff is thicker and I used it on the roof and about 6" down each side.
Then I used the white stuff on the walls, its thinner so I thought it would be fine on the walls.

Then to reflect the heat on the black roof I went over the roof with the white and that worked good so....several coats on all surfaces cost me about $250-$300.
No leaks, and its good for 5 years and can be touched up easy and cheap.

Another option to think about....re-plywood then get a duradeck installer to put duradeck over it, its pricey but I checked into it and its an option especially if a pro puts it on and folds the corners properly. If you don't care about color then you may find an installer who has a part roll and you can get that at a discount.

One more option I checked into and almost did...put a torch on membrane over the plywood, get a pro to put that on too, its abit heavy and pricey too. If you know someone in the business you may get the material cheap, like I got a part roll of the membrane from a torch on buddy for free, and he would of torched it on for me for a bottle on a saturday.
The membrane is the kind they put on over a deck before pouring concrete over it, its about 3/16" thick or so.
Hope this gives you some idea's.

What about pool liner? I heard this is an option also, just need to paint it white it is black liner. I was doing some reading and apparently there ha e been changes in technology with membranes the last few years, so they are as basic as good old rubber, etc. Still not sure they are worth paying for from an RV dealer...

[one-shot-wonder]

Replaced part of my 5 wheel roof wasn’t that hard didn’t have to replace any structural wood just plywood on roof and glue down a section

This is what I am hoping for! Fingers crossed...

[boxhitch]

In case you need a hand

https://www.facebook.com/Dans-Mobile-Auto-and-Recreational-Repairs-671516352916974/

[Downwindtracker2]

Beside that tent trailer, I've rebuilt my hunting camper. Not the roof, just the back end and wings, a common problem. I've done a fair bit of RV work over the years. Two must have RV tools are a Fien multicrafter, or one of it's clones and Kreig jig. The Fien lets you cut odd spots and the Kreig lets you screw in the replacement wood.

[one-shot-wonder]

In case you need a hand

https://www.facebook.com/Dans-Mobile-Auto-and-Recreational-Repairs-671516352916974/

Thanks Box! Sounds like a good guy to know in case something goes sideways.

[tim3500]

6 days! Was that all day, everyday? I heard this roof job in the industry pays out about 35 hrs labour. Thankfully no slides, with aluminum studs/trusses, I am hoping it is pretty straight forward, just plywood and membrane replacement.

Putting a hr base time to it it was about 50 hrs the next one would be faster for sure if you're Handy it's not a hard job .

[tigrr]

The worst part is when the frame is rotten and has to be replaced. Or the snow load has broken the frame in the roof. The way the thin ceiling plywood is attached to the frame rips it all to shreds. Then not only are you fixing the roof membrane, you are replacing the ceiling.
Would I do I again NO. I have done 2. 1 rotten and 1 snow load busted. The finished ceiling ply is expensive.

[blindbob]

I cut out and replaced a 5'x6' piece of the roof where the vent and a tv aerial mount were leaking. It was a lot of pop rivets and sealant to attach the repair. The best then you can do when you buy a trailer is take all the trim off, scrape all the cheap plumbers putty off and seal it with good silicon seal.

[Downwindtracker2]

Well silicon is likely better than that grey stuff, when they seal a million dollar motorhome , they use Pro-Flex. I've redone our travel trailer. After only a couple of years I found rot. And when I rebuilt a 18 year old camper for hunting.


The wife and I did the travel trailer in two weekends.

[one-shot-wonder]

I have heard that Proflex is the 'go to' sealent... Over rated? Is it worth the premium?
Did some reading and many recommend Dicor self levelling sealant. Any experience?

[Downwindtracker2]

I've used both as well as Siktaflex (sp) They are all poly urethane sealants . The Dicor self leveling is for roof repairs. On the camper , the fridge vent had leaked, I think it was Dicor, but it was 18 years old. So on the camper I redid all the roof vents with Dicor. I cut the nozzle back to 3/8" and really puddled it. For side wall trim I used Pro-Flex. It should outlast me.

[Ubertuber]

OP, if you do have aluminum frame, then it's probably a doable job. Rip off old, replace roof and then seal it.
Digging into a wood frame camper is typically not worth the effort as far as I'm concerned. It can be done, but it's a pain. I did it twice, and both times it became apparent I was just kicking the problem down the road. Once RV's start to rot it's damn near impossible to stop it from spreading.
I can't believe RV's cost what they do considering the material and craftsmanship put into them.

[Downwindtracker2]

I think they are designed to last as long as the payments. Why else would they use that butyl tape?