Iron sights or scope for bear hunting...?

[joshbazz]

Rookie here. I got my bear tag, and was thinking having iron sights might be better (safe) for hunting bear in the bush/hills. I have a 3-9x40 scope (Viper) on my Ruger American, which I put up for sale and just picked up a used TAP-375 Lakelander. Both rifles are 30-06, but the Lakelander has iron sights. Should be a wash once I sell the Ruger (hopefully).

My question is: Is there an optimal setup for iron sight hunting? Should I look into quick release rings or bases and add my scope? Should I just put on a 2-7x33 scope for the type of hunting I'm into?

I'm new, just started last October, been out a handful of times. I hope to hunt deer, Moose, Elk, bear, possibly Caribou and sheep in the future, and have a shotgun for turkey and other birds. I like to spot and stalk, and still hunt. I'm into hiking up and aways to low pressure areas to hopefully find game. I also am into still hunting in the woods.

I bought the Ruger American after obsessively reading reviews and feeling different rifles in store. I like it, but I would eventually want a wood stock. I just prefer the feel. I tried the Lakelander and was blown away by the action, the bolt is so smooth (9 lugs). It's a blind magazine, but has a little button to eject rounds without cycling the action. And it has a wood stock and iron sights. I don't see any advantage in having a removable mag for what I do.

I really like the idea of starting with basics and building skills. I've fired air rifles and .22's with iron sights and quite like it, find it accurate so far - only tried out to about 50 yards so far. I also heard having a low power scope is good for making sure to keep close game in view. I practice bringing the scope to my eyes anyways to build good habits, and not have to search for game looking down the scope.

Any thoughts? Recommendations? Does anybody hunt with iron sights anymore, or low power scopes? Seems most are 3-9x40 or 4-16x50 etc...

https://i.imgur.com/lgF81CIl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/p8tsPaRl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KFUIUXZl.jpg

[Fella]

If you’re going to be using that rifle for more than bear hunting in thick bush, I’d go with a scope.

[hawk-i]

scope unless you can't afford it...:)

[joshbazz]

If you’re going to be using that rifle for more than bear hunting in thick bush, I’d go with a scope.

For up to 300 yards what would you recommend, 2-7x33 or 3-9x40? Do you have experience with either?

[Hugh Mann]

I have a Leupold VX-R 1-4x30 on my bear gun. Haven't gotten a chance to take a bear with it yet, but works wonders at the range.

Could be that it's just me, but even on my long range gun (4-16), I rarely turn up the magnification, unless I am at the range, and have taken animals at 300 no problem.

[Gateholio]

A scope is a better aiming device than iron sights for virtually every application. There is no reason to use iron sights in 2019, unless you just want to. 2-7/3-9 doesn't really matter, what matters is durability, repeat-ability and optical quality.

[Just]

QUOTE=Hugh Mann;2087626]I have a Leupold VX-R 1-4x30 on my bear gun. Haven't gotten a chance to take a bear with it yet, but works wonders at the range.

Could be that it's just me, but even on my long range gun (4-16), I rarely turn up the magnification, unless I am at the range, and have taken animals at 300 no problem.[/QUOTE]


I have that scope on my 30-06 and I have taken bears up to 300 yards with it, and 50, it’s awsome!

[dino]

A scope is a better aiming device than iron sights for virtually every application. There is no reason to use iron sights in 2019, unless you just want to. 2-7/3-9 doesn't really matter, what matters is durability, repeat-ability and optical quality.

I dissagree. There are a few good reasons for open sights. Some hunting styles for certain animals benefit from open sights. Timber hunting in rough country for bears is one. Timber hunting the west coast during inclement weather for blacktails is another. I agree with your opinion with regards to the o.p. but some elitists use open sights for good reason. Acquiring targets quickly is to the advantage of open sights.

[HarryToolips]

If the wind is good, and the bear doesn't originally see or hear you and you take your time you can sneak quite close to bears, so use whatever you want but iron sights is a lot of fun with bears on spot and stalk...

[joshbazz]

I have a Leupold VX-R 1-4x30 on my bear gun. Haven't gotten a chance to take a bear with it yet, but works wonders at the range.

Could be that it's just me, but even on my long range gun (4-16), I rarely turn up the magnification, unless I am at the range, and have taken animals at 300 no problem.
Cool, that sounds like a scope to consider! Thank you

[joshbazz]

A scope is a better aiming device than iron sights for virtually every application. There is no reason to use iron sights in 2019, unless you just want to. 2-7/3-9 doesn't really matter, what matters is durability, repeat-ability and optical quality.
Maybe my Vortex Viper 3-9x40 fits the bill...?


I have that scope on my 30-06 and I have taken bears up to 300 yards with it, and 50, it’s awsome!
Another vote for the 1-4... interesting...


I dissagree. There are a few good reasons for open sights. Some hunting styles for certain animals benefit from open sights. Timber hunting in rough country for bears is one. Timber hunting the west coast during inclement weather for blacktails is another. I agree with your opinion with regards to the o.p. but some elitists use open sights for good reason. Acquiring targets quickly is to the advantage of open sights.
Interesting... will take a while to become elitist... I'm up for the challenge...


If the wind is good, and the bear doesn't originally see or hear you and you take your time you can sneak quite close to bears, so use whatever you want but iron sights is a lot of fun with bears on spot and stalk...
That definitely sounds fun!

[Gateholio]

I dissagree. There are a few good reasons for open sights. Some hunting styles for certain animals benefit from open sights. Timber hunting in rough country for bears is one. Timber hunting the west coast during inclement weather for blacktails is another. I agree with your opinion with regards to the o.p. but some elitists use open sights for good reason. Acquiring targets quickly is to the advantage of open sights.

Having spent plenty of time timber hunting rough terrain in inclement weather, I would still choose a scope over iron sights. I've never lost an opportunity from using a scope, but there have been plenty of times I would have lost the opportunity with iron sights. Many people feel that iron sights are faster to use than a scope, and I used to believe that too, until I really started to examine the topic. Scopes can get you on target and shooting faster, no need to line up 3 separate focus points.

For fast work at moderate distances, a red dot trumps everything.

[elch jager]

.... Scopes can get you on target and shooting faster, no need to line up 3 separate focus points. For fast work at moderate distances, a red dot trumps everything.

This was my reasoning as well... Taking it a step further - walking into the thick stuff to recover a bear, I wanted to have both eyes open for better, wider field of view outside the tube of the scope. a true 1x delivers that. The illuminated reticle makes it that much quicker to acquire a target.

I bought this for my 338-06 and could not be happier with it.
https://www.vortexcanada.net/en/hunting/riflescopes/strike-eagle/vt-se-1824-1-vortex-strike-eagle-1-8x24-riflescope-ar-bdc-2
https://manlygearreviews.com/optics/best-1-8-scope/

** maybe move this to the right subforum for more responses...? many won't see it in BCWF

[Gateholio]

Maybe my Vortex Viper 3-9x40 fits the bill...?


Another vote for the 1-4... interesting...


Interesting... will take a while to become elitist... I'm up for the challenge...


That definitely sounds fun!


Your 3-9 will be fine. Leave it on 3x for most of your hunting, Crank up power if you need to shoot further. Practice lifting your rifle up and getting on target with your scope, both eyes open. After you practice this for awhile doing dry fire, go to the range and try it with some live ammo.

[joshbazz]

Your 3-9 will be fine. Leave it on 3x for most of your hunting, Crank up power if you need to shoot further. Practice lifting your rifle up and getting on target with your scope, both eyes open. After you practice this for awhile doing dry fire, go to the range and try it with some live ammo.

Awesome advice Gate! Ok, will do. I do this sometimes with both eyes (wasn't sure of the benefit), but will do more. And will definitely put in some range time.

[Fella]

Awesome advice Gate! Ok, will do. I do this sometimes with both eyes (wasn't sure of the benefit), but will do more. And will definitely put in some range time.

I shoot with both eyes open, cannot shoot with only one eye anymore and it helps track your target after you shoot

[mike31154]

My primary hunting rifle is a vintage 30-06 with an equally vintage Weaver scope. Going into 4th big game hunting season this year & have yet to take an animal personally, but that's mainly because I haven't had an opportunity at a decent shot. Need to improve my stalking skills. It shoots very well at the range, so I really have no reason to go out & get a spanking new, modern hunting rifle. I like the old gun & one of the things that drew me to it immediately when I saw it on the table at a gun show years ago, was the rather unique swing away Pachmayr scope mount. This allows very quick transition from scope to iron sights & vice/versa.

The rifle had obviously seen plenty of days in the field judging by the peeling varnish on the walnut stock, but I decided to make the purchase regardless. Another reason I was reasonably confident it's a good gun is the FN logo engraved on the receiver. FN Belgium is known to produce a quality product. Reliable, proven Mauser action.

https://pjbjvq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4mR5UqB-v6Gz3pNfwiIkjmvoCcu460VSuRxPmMvZX9IBib0YWbKXxMMu_L 2cnl4nijE7VeA8nT_E-9wu69iJUAAYWm8I5q49oFaaVL3sWWFB7EYzai9H_nNgw5PQALi wJEQHIHZowlIOJghrKD18tSTGmfZrMW6dKeOhlmyjQ6Sdw0RQJ XKecdrDSoDHkCR6l0x8RzxltWBgPidoEh1Tkp3w?width=1024&height=233&cropmode=none

I disassembled it & refinished the stock. Photos after refinishing with linseed oil & highlighting the swing away mount follow. Hopefully this upcoming season I can do the rifle proud by harvesting a mulie, whitetail or moose. I'm sure it has in the hands or previous owners. Wish I had some history of that. I guess what I'm trying to get across is that hunters in the past used both scopes & iron sites to successfully harvest animals. While a rarity today, quick detachable & swing scope mounts are still out there. My days at the range with this gun have proven that the Pachmayr mechanism holds zero no problem after cycling.

Left side view. The knurled knob in the center of the swing mechanism facilitates quick, complete removal of the scope.
https://pjbcvq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m7K-j-pYhxPKJj7M4gXaxRhI6wrrco_heZRp0V5T7gNS29C42m2AkAhq 2vjnmtimL0tcnpT8ZQd0uc8pD6enP7Zva_2uRhl6ROC0ghRjAx OOM-gXYH4jVDNBRjVcNOrJYwTsVQZnK3Ncka7dyuGz6Prg7oOOLY2w CgspLq0TuA8jCJrMMoPNWp1Gh7R1RU_ZPxQXleNYojEL4aNhC4 q6SJw?width=1024&height=305&cropmode=none

Other side.
https://pzbmvq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m2c_LdMEIR7JY1vxirTw4lCqWck3qSADxIES9LltPDiqGsqP zS1AugUehRHqu7beRJmOf9rZwz9k_qNT0eHV7cIMUfIPRQuvBf pU3ifkvPVP2UOpJm4VaGMriG8SGO4yEaQ6-iiKcExKmeUMmBYXEBImS5AJoPsIEWZgstSLbF-YSxwMh_bVOeM5kQAhpRSMKi6lq0L-DzWJNRxqNdHrHaw?width=1024&height=488&cropmode=none

I've never been surprised/charged by a bear at close quarters, but having the swing away feature could be an advantage in such a situation. If you could shoulder the rifle in time, at short range, the view through a scope would be nothing but fur.

[dino]

Having spent plenty of time timber hunting rough terrain in inclement weather, I would still choose a scope over iron sights. I've never lost an opportunity from using a scope, but there have been plenty of times I would have lost the opportunity with iron sights. Many people feel that iron sights are faster to use than a scope, and I used to believe that too, until I really started to examine the topic. Scopes can get you on target and shooting faster, no need to line up 3 separate focus points.

For fast work at moderate distances, a red dot trumps everything.

Like I posted earlier, different styles for hunting same game. I also have hunted extensively blacktails in the nastiest weather possible with and without a scope. My scoped partners had issues with fogged up and distorted views all the time. They also had issues when encountering a fall knocking out the zero. Im sure this has happened to you .anyone that hikes falls and questions their scope. To many scope covers broken or torn off also.

[325]

Go with a scope. The advantages far outweigh the disadvantages.

[Wild one]

Go with whatever you are most comfortable with and fits the style of hunting you are going to use it for. Personally I am not a fan of v sites but some love them. I am a short range hunter and like thick bush/timber for most of my hunting. It’s rare for me to even take a 100yard shot

My scopes are 2-7 or 3-9 rare they are set above 5 power. After trying a red dot my next bush gun will be set up with a red dot

My opinion if it’s strictly for short range 2-7 scope or a red dot. If you want it to be more versatile get a 3-9

[Jagermeister]

There are 3 focal planes when you use iron sights. The rear sight, front sight and the target. It is impossible for the human eye to focus on any more than one. So the correct method is to focus on the rear sight centering on the front sight, which will a little blurry in comparison to the rear sight but will be much clearer focus than the target object. The further the distance, the greater the chance of missing the target. The main advantage of shooting sights is that you can have faster target acquisition, particularly in dark background situations and very short distances or both.
With optics, you only have to consider one focal plane. The cross-hairs centered on the target and your are good to go. Wait, there is a codicil or two. In dark background situations, you have a greater tendency to lose sight of the target, which is especially amplified with higher magnification. The latter can occur even in better light conditions. Then consider the target is rapidly advancing toward you, the quicker it advances, the greater the probability to lose the cross-hair contact on the vital zone. Nothing to really worry about if it is an ungulate, but what if it is a pissed off bear that is not liking your presence and is determined to do something about it.
What would I recommend? For an all round rifle for all game, dangerous or not, I would use a 2-7 X 30+ scope with a quick detachable or tip-off system.

[joshbazz]

Go with whatever you are most comfortable with and fits the style of hunting you are going to use it for. Personally I am not a fan of v sites but some love them. I am a short range hunter and like thick bush/timber for most of my hunting. It’s rare for me to even take a 100yard shot

My scopes are 2-7 or 3-9 rare they are set above 5 power. After trying a red dot my next bush gun will be set up with a red dot

My opinion if it’s strictly for short range 2-7 scope or a red dot. If you want it to be more versatile get a 3-9
My dilemma is I really like my 3x9, the Viper is super clear... but I do plan on doing woods, and some mountain hunting, but less than 300 yards. Also, I want to be prepared for close encounter bear interactions if the situation arises when I hunt them in a couple weeks...

What would be a fair transition in quality from Vortex Viper 3-9x40 to a 2-7x33? Leupold vx-2? Leupold vx-3? others?



There are 3 focal planes when you use iron sights. The rear sight, front sight and the target. It is impossible for the human eye to focus on any more than one. So the correct method is to focus on the rear sight centering on the front sight, which will a little blurry in comparison to the rear sight but will be much clearer focus than the target object. The further the distance, the greater the chance of missing the target. The main advantage of shooting sights is that you can have faster target acquisition, particularly in dark background situations and very short distances or both.
With optics, you only have to consider one focal plane. The cross-hairs centered on the target and your are good to go. Wait, there is a codicil or two. In dark background situations, you have a greater tendency to lose sight of the target, which is especially amplified with higher magnification. The latter can occur even in better light conditions. Then consider the target is rapidly advancing toward you, the quicker it advances, the greater the probability to lose the cross-hair contact on the vital zone. Nothing to really worry about if it is an ungulate, but what if it is a pissed off bear that is not liking your presence and is determined to do something about it.
What would I recommend? For an all round rifle for all game, dangerous or not, I would use a 2-7 X 30+ scope with a quick detachable or tip-off system.
Thanks for the explanation, never thought about it that way - 3 focal planes...
You also bring up another question about quick release/detach system. Any recommendations on that? I don't see many people with this system, and looks like some manufacturers like Vortex discontinued production of theirs (I could be wrong)... If you could point me in the right direction that would be awesome.

Cheers!

[Fella]

If it helps, i Hunt Vancouver island in the thick stuff and use a 3-9 viper

[joshbazz]

If it helps, i Hunt Vancouver island in the thick stuff and use a 3-9 viper
Hey Fella,

Have you ever hunted with a 2-7 to give a comparison? Do you find the 3 power (lowest magnification) an issue for close hunting? Have you shot anything 50 yards or less, if so any comments regarding the scope? Finally, do you aim with one or both eyes open?

Sorry for all the questions, haha...

[Fella]

Hey Fella,

Have you ever hunted with a 2-7 to give a comparison? Do you find the 3 power (lowest magnification) an issue for close hunting? Have you shot anything 50 yards or less, if so any comments regarding the scope? Finally, do you aim with one or both eyes open?

Sorry for all the questions, haha...
I had a 2-7 on a different rifle, didn’t really notice a huge difference. I shot a moose at 10 yards, a bear at 30 and a muley at 20 and they all died. And yes I shoot with both eyes open

[Wild one]

Honestly a 3-9 will be fine for what you need. Almost all my shots timber hunting are taken with my scope set on 3 power and I hunt thick stuff with close shots. I have 2-7 scopes because I don’t need higher magnification with my style of hunting.

The only way I would go with anything different is if you want to put together a set up strictly for thick bush close range hunting

You are over thinking in the thick stuff keep it on 3 if you’re in areas a little more open 5. Don’t stress about bears so much just make your first shot count and give them time before you go in for recovery and you won’t have any issues

[Gateholio]

Leupold 2.5-8x36 solves most of your problems

[joshbazz]

I had a 2-7 on a different rifle, didn’t really notice a huge difference. I shot a moose at 10 yards, a bear at 30 and a muley at 20 and they all died. And yes I shoot with both eyes open
OK, I'll be primarily practicing two eye scope shooting from now on! Thanks!


Honestly a 3-9 will be fine for what you need. Almost all my shots timber hunting are taken with my scope set on 3 power and I hunt thick stuff with close shots. I have 2-7 scopes because I don’t need higher magnification with my style of hunting.

The only way I would go with anything different is if you want to put together a set up strictly for thick bush close range hunting

You are over thinking in the thick stuff keep it on 3 if you’re in areas a little more open 5. Don’t stress about bears so much just make your first shot count and give them time before you go in for recovery and you won’t have any issues

Sounds good, makes a lot of sense, thank you!


Leupold 2.5-8x36 solves most of your problems

Thanks Gate, I was considering that one as well!

Thanks everyone, I'm going to practice my ass off with both eyes open. I think I'm also going to look at quick detach rings, the Leupold QRW2 look interesting, for quick changes if necessary.

Cheers!

[Fella]

What not just buy a separate bush gun with irons like a marlin guide gun? Then you don’t have to worry about resighting the scope after you’ve taken it off.

[joshbazz]

What not just buy a separate bush gun with irons like a marlin guide gun? Then you don’t have to worry about resighting the scope after you’ve taken it off.
That was the original idea, but I'm trying to have a one rifle setup... for now...

I also have a Mossberg 500 12 gauge, I guess I could use that with slugs... I have a 28" accuchoke and 18" cylinder barrel, but I was going to wait until I acquired a rifled barrel before going that route...

[Wild one]

Josh with you being fairly new to hunting I am going to offer you some advice. Don’t overthink your set up and gear because you have not developed your style of hunting yet so you(or anyone else for that matter) can’t really judge what fits your personal needs yet

Keep it simple for a few seasons don’t think about gear and focus on learning about the species you are going to hunt and the places they live in. You will learn what you want to add or change after a few seasons

Knife, weapon, good pack, and bino’s is all you need to worry about gear wise till you develop your style of hunting and pick up a little experience

I watch so many new or green hunters buy all kinds of gear at the start only to sell it later. Focus on gaining knowledge of hunting methods, species, and habitat because this is most important

Just go hunting and enjoy yourself figuring it out ;-)

[Jagermeister]

This rifle is a 9.3X62 which has express open sights. They are large and were intended for lion hunting in Africa. The setup on this rifle makes using the irons redundant. The mounts are the tallest you can get so it would make sense if I were to get a set of see-thru scope mounts such as these. https://www.natchezss.com/kwik-site-2-piece-see-thru-rifle-scope-mount-1-mauser-91-93-95-small-ring-action-black.html
Now some will ask why so tall? The bolt handle comes in contact with shorter scope rings/bases so it has to be at the uppermost position so I can easily utilize these types of rings.
The scope here is a Burris 2x7x35 Fullfield and having a see-thru system would be complementary,
http://www.huntingbc.ca/photos/data/500/9_3X62.jpg

So the see-thru rings will give you another option.

[Slinky Pickle]

I've switched to a little old school shooting for this year's bear season. I've used the .300WSM with a 3.5x10 scope for a few years but this year will be a little bit different.

My dad had a Savage 1899 is .303 Savage and last year he handed it over to me. Since then, I've acquired it's identical twin. Dad's was built in 1908 and the other one is from 1900. My goal is to take a bear with each of them this year.

Don't let the scope community sway you. Iron sights can be a lot of fun and make things way more exciting.

We call them Thelma and Louise, sisters in mischief.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190227/15e0f7b9cf6bc18eed1b7d78176a3d3b.jpg

[joshbazz]

Josh with you being fairly new to hunting I am going to offer you some advice. Don’t overthink your set up and gear because you have not developed your style of hunting yet so you(or anyone else for that matter) can’t really judge what fits your personal needs yet

Keep it simple for a few seasons don’t think about gear and focus on learning about the species you are going to hunt and the places they live in. You will learn what you want to add or change after a few seasons

Knife, weapon, good pack, and bino’s is all you need to worry about gear wise till you develop your style of hunting and pick up a little experience

I watch so many new or green hunters buy all kinds of gear at the start only to sell it later. Focus on gaining knowledge of hunting methods, species, and habitat because this is most important

Just go hunting and enjoy yourself figuring it out ;-)
Sage advice, thanks wild one! You’re correct, I’m all set on gear then :)
I do tend to over think things. Cheers!


This rifle is a 9.3X62 which has express open sights. They are large and were intended for lion hunting in Africa. The setup on this rifle makes using the irons redundant. The mounts are the tallest you can get so it would make sense if I were to get a set of see-thru scope mounts such as these. https://www.natchezss.com/kwik-site-2-piece-see-thru-rifle-scope-mount-1-mauser-91-93-95-small-ring-action-black.html
Now some will ask why so tall? The bolt handle comes in contact with shorter scope rings/bases so it has to be at the uppermost position so I can easily utilize these types of rings.
The scope here is a Burris 2x7x35 Fullfield and having a see-thru system would be complementary,
http://www.huntingbc.ca/photos/data/500/9_3X62.jpg

So the see-thru rings will give you another option.
interesting...


I've switched to a little old school shooting for this year's bear season. I've used the .300WSM with a 3.5x10 scope for a few years but this year will be a little bit different.

My dad had a Savage 1899 is .303 Savage and last year he handed it over to me. Since then, I've acquired it's identical twin. Dad's was built in 1908 and the other one is from 1900. My goal is to take a bear with each of them this year.

Don't let the scope community sway you. Iron sights can be a lot of fun and make things way more exciting.

We call them Thelma and Louise, sisters in mischief.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190227/15e0f7b9cf6bc18eed1b7d78176a3d3b.jpg
Those are gorgeous! I almost bought a used .300 savage, but couldn’t justify ammo costs - being a new shooter and all. Maybe I’ll leave the scope off my irons for a while :)

[Mosin]

The last bear I took was at 175 yards, my Leupold vx1 was on 3 setting(it's a 3-9x40). You don't really need high magnification, my last moose was taken at 70-80 yards with a 6x fixed power scope. Everyone has their own opinion but I usually just stick with 2-7 or 4x fixed scopes for hunting and plinking. You don't need to stare at the fleas on the animals back, plus at high magnification the slightest shaking is grossly exaggerated when peering thru the scope.

[joshbazz]

The last bear I took was at 175 yards, my Leupold vx1 was on 3 setting(it's a 3-9x40). You don't really need high magnification, my last moose was taken at 70-80 yards with a 6x fixed power scope. Everyone has their own opinion but I usually just stick with 2-7 or 4x fixed scopes for hunting and plinking. You don't need to stare at the fleas on the animals back, plus at high magnification the slightest shaking is grossly exaggerated when peering thru the scope.
I just ordered a 2-7x35 on CGN...

so should I do low rings, with coin screw detach or see through rings?...

[Gateholio]

You want GOOD low as you can go rings.

See through rings are an abomination and anyone who uses them should be dismissed as a crackpot

;)

[DeepJeep]

Go with a scope. The advantages far outweigh the disadvantages.

Like Gateholio and many others have said above. Get a scope. I like 4-12 range because they are fun at the range. Depending on the terrain looks like, I'll leave it between 4 and 6. If u r timber hunting, leave the at 4. Problem solved. Alinging sights will definitely take more time than getting the reticle on target.

Don't over think. Have fun

[DeepJeep]

I just ordered a 2-7x35 on CGN...

so should I do low rings, with coin screw detach or see through rings?...

Should have read the entire thread. My bad
Good call on 2-7.
Have fun

[joshbazz]

...The scope here is a Burris 2x7x35 Fullfield and having a see-thru system would be complementary,
http://www.huntingbc.ca/photos/data/500/9_3X62.jpg

So the see-thru rings will give you another option.
Hey Jag, I ended up ordering the Fullfield II 2-7x35... looking forward to sighting it in when it gets here next week.

Not sure about see throughs, might start with low rings and go from there...

I also want to practice with the irons a lot. I might look at a quick detach system.

Cheers!

[brian]

Have you ever hunted with a 2-7 to give a comparison? Do you find the 3 power (lowest magnification) an issue for close hunting? Have you shot anything 50 yards or less, if so any comments regarding the scope? Finally, do you aim with one or both eyes open?

I shoot a shotgun with buckshot using a fixed 4 power (don’t ask). My shots are all 30 yards or less all in the timber. I have never had any issues with close range shooting. You should fine with 3-9. Practice lots and it’ll come up to your eye naturally. My biggest issues with scopes are keeping them clear in nasty weather. I have a peep sight on my 30-30 that I really like, it’d be my choice over other open sights.

[180grainer]

Rookie here. I got my bear tag, and was thinking having iron sights might be better (safe) for hunting bear in the bush/hills. I have a 3-9x40 scope (Viper) on my Ruger American, which I put up for sale and just picked up a used TAP-375 Lakelander. Both rifles are 30-06, but the Lakelander has iron sights. Should be a wash once I sell the Ruger (hopefully).

My question is: Is there an optimal setup for iron sight hunting? Should I look into quick release rings or bases and add my scope? Should I just put on a 2-7x33 scope for the type of hunting I'm into?

I'm new, just started last October, been out a handful of times. I hope to hunt deer, Moose, Elk, bear, possibly Caribou and sheep in the future, and have a shotgun for turkey and other birds. I like to spot and stalk, and still hunt. I'm into hiking up and aways to low pressure areas to hopefully find game. I also am into still hunting in the woods.

I bought the Ruger American after obsessively reading reviews and feeling different rifles in store. I like it, but I would eventually want a wood stock. I just prefer the feel. I tried the Lakelander and was blown away by the action, the bolt is so smooth (9 lugs). It's a blind magazine, but has a little button to eject rounds without cycling the action. And it has a wood stock and iron sights. I don't see any advantage in having a removable mag for what I do.

I really like the idea of starting with basics and building skills. I've fired air rifles and .22's with iron sights and quite like it, find it accurate so far - only tried out to about 50 yards so far. I also heard having a low power scope is good for making sure to keep close game in view. I practice bringing the scope to my eyes anyways to build good habits, and not have to search for game looking down the scope.

Any thoughts? Recommendations? Does anybody hunt with iron sights anymore, or low power scopes? Seems most are 3-9x40 or 4-16x50 etc...


I'd go quick release. Couple of reasons. If you're in somewhere and your scope screws up you can still hunt with iron sights. Taking the scope off while walking your meat out is also preferable in my opinion. Any defensive shooting close up is quicker if you're not trying to find something in your scope. Same reason if you're bear hunting and have to go in tight on a wounded bear. Good set of quick releases won't affect the accuracy of your scope. I have a set of quick releases on my 375 H&H and so far they've worked well.

[Foxton Gundogs]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^this^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

[Mosin]

I just ordered a 2-7x35 on CGN...

so should I do low rings, with coin screw detach or see through rings?...

Get the lowest rings you can but make sure your bolt won't hit the bottom of your scope when chambering a round. I am a big fan of vomz scopes sold by Corwin Arms in Kamloops.

[elch jager]

Get the lowest rings you can but make sure your bolt won't hit the bottom of your scope when chambering a round. I am a big fan of vomz scopes sold by Corwin Arms in Kamloops.

unless of course you are a tall gangly dude with a long neck and arms to match.... There is more than just bolt clearance to consider when determining ring height.

MOST importantly, it has to fit you correctly.

Butt stock configuration and your physical size need to be considered. If you have a long neck and arms and a straight buttstock you will be hunched up and your sight picture will be offset resulting in slower target acquisition and possible parallax error moving your point of impact.

Close your eyes, mount your rifle and then open your eyes... you should be looking through your scope relatively centered on your eye.

I find medium rings best for me on straight 'american' style stocks. I can use lows on a stock with more drop to it, or a montecarlo and raised cheekpiece.

[joshbazz]

... I have a peep sight on my 30-30 that I really like, it’d be my choice over other open sights.
Interesting, though I wouldn't want to take off the irons on mine for the peep.. mayb I'll put a peep on my Mossy 500...


I'd go quick release. Couple of reasons. ...

^^^^^^^^^^^^^this^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
This was my first plan...


Get the lowest rings you can ...

...MOST importantly, it has to fit you correctly...
Scope came in so I went and bought some low weaver rings to go with the stock weaver style bases on my Lakelander. I gently installed the ring bottoms first, not too tight, and when I tried to put the scope on it - the rings wouldn't clear the bell - doh!

So I exchanged them - with $$ for extension rings, weaver again, but they are high, they said that was all they had for extension rings. I got both extensions, as only one would make it pretty tight and I want to properly adjust the eye relief to fit me properly.

They have the coin size detach screws, so I can remove them in the field (have to remember to keep a quarter or nickel on me) But maybe I'll upgrade to a quick detach system - that fits with extensions - in the future... will cross that bridge later.

Still swamped with work, haven't had a chance to sight in the irons - or attach the scope after getting the new rings... I guess I have a little time before prime bear hunting time...

Thanks for the advice everyone :)

Will upload pics when complete.

[Chewie]

Read the whole thread and lots of good advice. I read a lot on the internet and after trial and error I came up with a system that works for me.
Shooting with both eyes open.
When I first came across this concept I was thinking how can this work? I’m always willing to try something new so I started doing it and after awhile it started to come easy. Now I do it all the time. You are able to see the area outside the field of view of the scope and for the type of hunting that I do now on the west coast it works well. When your in the bush you can shoulder your rifle and keep an eye on the animal and if you have to wait a bit for a good shot your eyes don’t go blurry. Works well with iron sights for me also, if my gun is set up right. Which brings me to my next point.
Cheek weld.
For years I always wondered why I could shoot some guns more accurately than others. Didn’t realize at the time that the fit of the gun, height of scope rings, eye relief, quality of scopes all played a factor one way or another. If your like me budget plays a role so I adapted.
First I set the eye relief. Set your scope at middle magnification works best.
I use a Vortex Strike Eagle 1x6x24. It’s not really a true 1 power but is close enough that I make it work. If I ever get a chance to look through one that is I’ll probably buy it if I can afford it.
What I do is close my eyes and shoulder the rifle. Then I open my eyes. If I’m not looking straight down the scope and getting a black shadow one way or the other (I found with scopes I am usually looking under them so I usually buy scope rings that will just clear the bolt handle to start) I will either have to change the scope rings or raise my head to see clearly. If I have to raise my head, I have some light felt that I found in craft store. It’s thin and I find I can add layers to get my head up to the correct height with a good cheek weld. I make a pad and depending on the stock build it to fit.
I just use electrician tape until I have it right then I will wrap it with leg wrap that horsey people use to protect the lower legs of their horses. It is stretchy stuff that sticks to itself, comes in different colors and widths and doesn’t soak up water. Comes off easily if you want to remove it.
When all this set up and you practice lots you will be pleasantly surprised at how fast you can get on target.
Does it look pretty? Nope, but I was never one to be out to win a fashion contest so it doesn’t matter to me. Putting meat on the table is my objective.
What all this does for me is to have the ability when hunting in the coastal jungle is to be able to bring my rifle up, see what’s going on and get a shot off quickly because sometimes you only have seconds to get a shot off on an animal before it takes a couple of steps and disappears into the thickets.
Just throwing some ideas out there to you on what works for me.
Good luck on your hunts.

[joshbazz]

Read the whole thread and lots of good advice. I read a lot on the internet and after trial and error I came up with a system that works for me.
Shooting with both eyes open.
When I first came across this concept I was thinking how can this work? I’m always willing to try something new so I started doing it and after awhile it started to come easy. Now I do it all the time. You are able to see the area outside the field of view of the scope and for the type of hunting that I do now on the west coast it works well. When your in the bush you can shoulder your rifle and keep an eye on the animal and if you have to wait a bit for a good shot your eyes don’t go blurry. Works well with iron sights for me also, if my gun is set up right. Which brings me to my next point.
Cheek weld.
For years I always wondered why I could shoot some guns more accurately than others. Didn’t realize at the time that the fit of the gun, height of scope rings, eye relief, quality of scopes all played a factor one way or another. If your like me budget plays a role so I adapted.
First I set the eye relief. Set your scope at middle magnification works best.
I use a Vortex Strike Eagle 1x6x24. It’s not really a true 1 power but is close enough that I make it work. If I ever get a chance to look through one that is I’ll probably buy it if I can afford it.
What I do is close my eyes and shoulder the rifle. Then I open my eyes. If I’m not looking straight down the scope and getting a black shadow one way or the other (I found with scopes I am usually looking under them so I usually buy scope rings that will just clear the bolt handle to start) I will either have to change the scope rings or raise my head to see clearly. If I have to raise my head, I have some light felt that I found in craft store. It’s thin and I find I can add layers to get my head up to the correct height with a good cheek weld. I make a pad and depending on the stock build it to fit.
I just use electrician tape until I have it right then I will wrap it with leg wrap that horsey people use to protect the lower legs of their horses. It is stretchy stuff that sticks to itself, comes in different colors and widths and doesn’t soak up water. Comes off easily if you want to remove it.
When all this set up and you practice lots you will be pleasantly surprised at how fast you can get on target.
Does it look pretty? Nope, but I was never one to be out to win a fashion contest so it doesn’t matter to me. Putting meat on the table is my objective.
What all this does for me is to have the ability when hunting in the coastal jungle is to be able to bring my rifle up, see what’s going on and get a shot off quickly because sometimes you only have seconds to get a shot off on an animal before it takes a couple of steps and disappears into the thickets.
Just throwing some ideas out there to you on what works for me.
Good luck on your hunts.
Awesome advice Chewie!

Cheek weld is super new to me as a new shooter, though I've seen many videos on the subject. I have not tried enough guns to know what my optimum weld is, but that is great advice about the the felt pad and horse tape... I'm going to pick some up and play around.

I tried setting up my scope myself with some weave standard rings ( I love DIY projects) but they are the one sided ones that cant your scope as you tighten the rings - holy hell what a frustrating experience. I finally got things where I think they were supposed to be without over tightening only to find that I was almost out of elevation on one side after I bore sighted... FML...

I'm going to go sight in 1.5 inch high at 100 for MBPR, and if I'm out of elevation to achieve that, then I'll take it to the shop as I must have something wrong...

Cheers!

[Chewie]

Awesome advice Chewie!

Cheek weld is super new to me as a new shooter, though I've seen many videos on the subject. I have not tried enough guns to know what my optimum weld is, but that is great advice about the the felt pad and horse tape... I'm going to pick some up and play around.

I tried setting up my scope myself with some weave standard rings ( I love DIY projects) but they are the one sided ones that cant your scope as you tighten the rings - holy hell what a frustrating experience. I finally got things where I think they were supposed to be without over tightening only to find that I was almost out of elevation on one side after I bore sighted... FML...

I'm going to go sight in 1.5 inch high at 100 for MBPR, and if I'm out of elevation to achieve that, then I'll take it to the shop as I must have something wrong...

Cheers!

If your running out of dial try turning your dial all the way until you get to the stop at the end (gently) then count the clicks to the stop the other way then divide by 2 and count that many back. That will put you on center. Then adjust accordingly. What I do when I mount my scope is look through it, drop your eye down the vertical hair and have it running down the center of the barrel. Usually there is something on the bolt that will give a really close center. After you tighten the rings check it again.
As far as your cheek weld goes it should be where your head wants to naturally be when you shoulder the gun.
Have patience, it will all come together. :)

[joshbazz]

Better late than never, haha:
https://i.imgur.com/i38wLeVh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8YGXAIFh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VT7fjxVh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/yGDaAcNh.jpg

I set up the scope myself (will never buy this weaver style again, so easy to cant the crosshairs), but I need to make some adjustments or get new rings or... I find it hard to get a good sight picture right away, seeing the black blurry edges, etc... Will also have to look into proper cheek weld...

[Rieber]

Better late than never, haha:
https://i.imgur.com/i38wLeVh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8YGXAIFh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VT7fjxVh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/yGDaAcNh.jpg

I set up the scope myself (will never buy this weaver style again, so easy to cant the crosshairs), but I need to make some adjustments or get new rings or... I find it hard to get a good sight picture right away, seeing the black blurry edges, etc... Will also have to look into proper cheek weld...

His rifle and scope is easy to square up. First set up the rifle level. Use a small torpedo level under the flat part of your forestock. Once the rifle is level side to side, place the level on your top turret cap. With the rings loose, rotate your scope inside the rings, without moving the level rifle, until the torpedo sitting on your turret cap is also level. Begin evenly snugging up your ring screws each a little at a time and keeping that torpedo level. Use a torque wrench to set the specified load - I don't use a torque wrench.

I find I need my scope typically set as close to me as possible to get a full view/picture through the scope. Cheaper scopes tend to show me a dark perimeter ring at the top power settings. The eyepiece focus can be set to provide some clarity.

Others will likely offer up other ways to square up your scope. I make this work for me without special tools.
T

[joshbazz]

His rifle and scope is easy to square up. First set up the rifle level. Use a small torpedo level under the flat part of your forestock. Once the rifle is level side to side, place the level on your top turret cap. With the rings loose, rotate your scope inside the rings, without moving the level rifle, until the torpedo sitting on your turret cap is also level. Begin evenly snugging up your ring screws each a little at a time and keeping that torpedo level. Use a torque wrench to set the specified load - I don't use a torque wrench.

I find I need my scope typically set as close to me as possible to get a full view/picture through the scope. Cheaper scopes tend to show me a dark perimeter ring at the top power settings. The eyepiece focus can be set to provide some clarity.

Others will likely offer up other ways to square up your scope. I make this work for me without special tools.
T

Thanks Rieber,

I'll give it another shot, though it's so frustrating tightening this weaver scope as the screws are only on one side, which means as I tighten the rings, the scope rotates towards the direction of the screws...

From what I've read, this Fulfield II scope is supposed to be pretty good for a cheaper scope... Though I'd be interested in knowing what the next step up would be, that a discernible improvement would be noticed. Swaro Z5? Leppy 3i? Leppy 5HD?

Cheers!

Josh

[180grainer]

If I was you, I'd get a nice 2X7, 2.5X8, or 3X9. Your eyes will tell you which one. You should then mount them on a set of quick releases that give you access to a good set of aperture, (am I spelling that right) sights, again, in a style only your eyes can tell. My reasoning, you're always in the game no matter what happens to your scope. On top of that, and I would agree with Gates that hunting in close quarters a scope is ok. But that's when your hunting. If I had the choice, there would be no way you'd get me to pick a scoped rifle over a non-scoped rifle, and then walk through thick brambles looking for a wounded Grizzly or even black. But that's me. Same thing with hiking out with meat in Grizz country. You might not be talking yards, you might be talking feet. Boom quick. My two cents.

[180grainer]

I should say as well. Your choice of gun is completely adequate for anything you might encounter in BC.

[ratherbefishin]

Helqvist ghost ring on an old Husky 9.3 x57 or 62.shoots 280 gr of soft lead and hits like the hammer of Thor.

[tigrr]

Late opinion but I found iron sights lacking when low light conditions existed.

[ACB]

For up to 300 yards what would you recommend, 2-7x33 or 3-9x40? Do you have experience with either?
I have a Leupold VX11 3x9X40mm objective lens mounted on my 300win mag and at low light I have it set at 3 or 4. The 40 mm objective lens will gather more light in low light times compared to the 33mm. But then again my days of shooting bears at last light are behind me now, I don't need to have another bear come into eat on the grassy patch in the dark that I'm cleaning the bear that I shot at last light anymore. Just me and a headlamp and another bear, Don't need that excitement anymore.

[SemperAurum]

I enjoy using open sights. Requires a bit more practice to figure out how much bead to use for various distances. As others have stated, the open sights are not as easy to use during low light. As you age the vision gets fuzzy and it becomes a bit more difficult.

Once I figure out the bead placement requirements from a bench I strictly practice offhand or seated shots. It is a real pleasure to handle and swing around a rifle with open sights - especially a heavy, larger bore cannon like a 375

[islandhunter]

A set of Warne quick detach rings and bases would allow you to use your irons whenever you want? Looks like you would need a scope with a longer tube or a full rail though? I've had good luck with cheap leupolds and Redfield revolutions

[mike31154]

Swing away mount.

https://edwajg.dm.files.1drv.com/y4mzPVRhTcZOiGuOcRkWq4_gvvb-4Qlw3Vd_evIPoItPoo3XmWKmMfeKk--YaSifgYXGxocRekby7jSYc8hXJY50GBYAvCLQW8B_PhPc7s4eE EPl5Ey4zTBLXMIeb4g2EOOr5kgmmCkMnBv6FF4ZR60yrBBFsI7 Nu3D2X46tHgppULcAn7zFFIsuGKKlyKn1zLhhLcLgITXeFMtr1 9IlO2ljw?width=572&height=1024&cropmode=none

https://edvqjg.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m02lvy3j7LjUT34eOuj84bimp9anxzO41-5iEFVAd6e9-yVaIdmFdDBjuN6TC4zFdEDoXGmh9NczrhCTYWn-s2Sk5w3AUud0yXnF_rR8M0mkxufiAn3TCRBv06OaL56qbW_AYf nSd8ZyJ3XNTuP0oIvceJVHtB7I6ilIoJwiVaQhaeiw6Nxkn57D TOu1MoEeeiNqF6CIhDHkOP3KvW6p3_Q?width=1024&height=874&cropmode=none

[IslandWanderer]

Do the bear a favour and use a scope.

[99Solutions]

I have taken my bears with a low power scope (1-4x) because it gives the full sight picture, and contrary to popular belief I find it way easier in low light. I’m hunting only blacks, and a black bear over a black barrel in a dark background has been easier to clarify when viewed through a scope.

My hunting partners all shot theirs using iron sights, and their point of impact was not as precise as my scoped shots. I hit every one directly through the heart, and theirs were a mix of locations (some unintended).

This coming year I am removing the scope. Why? Because I have found that it’s probably stupid of me to be wandering through the bush in the dark dragging our a pile of bloody meat. I have had some close calls, and mostly I get my bears midday anyway.

If it’s a dedicated bear rifle and you’re only shooting at bush range, I suggest iron sights. An aperture is much more accurate, but takes longer to get on target. When you’re in danger, you may not have the luxury of time.

Another drawback to scopes is that the get wet. The outer lens fogs up when it’s in high humidity, and even wiping won’t clear it properly. I’m hunting in a bog, and it’s a nightmare to try to keep a scope clear in.

If you’re using the same rifle for other game, I would use a removable cheek riser, and takedown rings so you can easily switch it for longer shots on other game. But in the environment I hunt, I am going back to iron sights - and switching to shoulder blade shots to take them down. Big target, instant drop.

I have rifles with 3-9x scopes, but usually I find myself missing the wider field of view that my 2-7x scope enables. I find it way more versatile than my 3-9x scopes. 2X power at bush range is way superior to 3X power, and dialled up to 7x you can still shoot well out to 250 yards. That also happens to be an average maximum point blank range for many old reliable cartridges even with heavy bullets.

With one rifle, I think you’d do best with a 2-7 scope using quick detach rings and a removable cheek riser (Velcro). In rifle season and in short range areas, I’d pop off the scope and use irons. I’m also shooting bear with a 30-06. With 220 grain handloaded bullets it leaves an entry would the diameter of a magic marker and a matching exit hole. I’m sure you’d do every hit as well with copper bullets or heavy partitions. With iron sights plus a can of spray, you’ll be able to defend yourself while field dressing your bear (and if you have to track one).

Your rifle looks gorgeous.

[David]

From what I've read, this Fulfield II scope is supposed to be pretty good for a cheaper scope... Though I'd be interested in knowing what the next step up would be, that a discernible improvement would be noticed. Swaro Z5? Leppy 3i? Leppy 5HD?


There are four components to scope cost/quality:
Durability
Type of reticle
Quality of the glass
Adjustability

Durability is something where you just have to go with reviews - how hard is it to not just break the scope, but knock it out of adjustment.

Type of reticle is based a lot on personal preference - for me a simple duplex is fine (and cheapest) but some people want DBC, Mils, MOA, etc. to adjust for longer range shooting (I don't shoot farther than 300 yards and just set my scope for something called Maximum Point Blank Range):
https://www.backcountrychronicles.com/maximum-point-blank-range/
https://www.chuckhawks.com/mpbr_hunting.htm

Quality of the glass is self-explanatory

Adjustability relates to things like focus, parallax (look it up), and zero stop turrets (mostly for long range shooting where you are adjusting your scope).

In my not-so-humble opinion the best value in scopes for my type of shooting is a Swarovski Z3 with a duplex reticle which, when it goes on sale, van be had for $700ish. You won't find better glass or durability and I don't need extra adjustability.

HOWEVER, for eye glass users - especially people with a strong prescription or astigmatism, you also need to look at eye relief (how far back from the scope your eye can be while still getting a good sight picture). In this case Leupold tends to be king of the hill.

Lastly, for low light shooting, the ratio of the magnification power to the objective diameter of the scope is how you calculate the exit pupil. The higher this number, the larger the exit pupil, and the better light transmission (low light shooting) - amongst other things.
https://www.shootingtimes.com/editorial/optics_opticpupil_061907/100357

Hope that helps (as always - just my opinion)

[kjudson86]

From the sounds of it we are fairly similar in style and experience. I've had fairly cheap optics on my odd 6 and 2 years now I've got a boar in the spring. Nothing over 50 yards away. You can get pretty close to them if you're quiet! so either way you could prolly have a bear gun that is iron sights! I'm gonna try with a bow this year! (My buddy will be spotting with another scoped 30-06)

[Foxton Gundogs]

It's more about where you're hunting than what you're hunting shots under 100 yds and in the Bush some type of irons would be fine. Big cutblocks, open country etc where shots could be 200 or more yds then a 2-7 or 3-9x40 would be the ticket

[brian]

Cheek weld is super new to me as a new shooter, though I've seen many videos on the subject. I have not tried enough guns to know what my optimum weld is, but that is great advice about the the felt pad and horse tape... I'm going to pick some up and play around.

Definitly do... I find I need to adjust the comb for cheek weld on every rifle I own. You can start by using anything bendable, tape and magazines, foam, or whatever you can think of. You just need to get a feel for the height and shape you need to add to your comb to get a good clear sight picture instantly when you shoulder your rifle. For the final addition I custom make mine out of thick grade veg tan leather and lace them onto the butt stock.

[joshbazz]

Dang, I missed some of these replies! Who else is getting excited for bear season! May can't get here soon enough, going to try to shed hunt a little and at least get out there.


I have taken my bears with a low power scope (1-4x) because it gives the full sight picture, and contrary to popular belief I find it way easier in low light. I’m hunting only blacks, and a black bear over a black barrel in a dark background has been easier to clarify when viewed through a scope...
...
Your rifle looks gorgeous.
Thank you! I'm looking forward to getting out there again.


There are four components to scope cost/quality:
Durability
Type of reticle
Quality of the glass
Adjustability

...

Hope that helps (as always - just my opinion)

Lots of great points there, I think I'm going to either save up for a used Z3, or used Leppy in the $700 range, or try to trade/sell my scope for a used fxII if it has a longer tube in the short term... whatever gets me to quick detach rings, though mine do have the coin slots for quickly unthreading the attachments...


From the sounds of it we are fairly similar in style and experience. I've had fairly cheap optics on my odd 6 and 2 years now I've got a boar in the spring. Nothing over 50 yards away. You can get pretty close to them if you're quiet! so either way you could prolly have a bear gun that is iron sights! I'm gonna try with a bow this year! (My buddy will be spotting with another scoped 30-06)
I'd love to get into bow, but not until I've had more experience, and finally bag a big game animal with my rifle. What cheap scopes have you used - and liked?


It's more about where you're hunting than what you're hunting shots under 100 yds and in the Bush some type of irons would be fine. Big cutblocks, open country etc where shots could be 200 or more yds then a 2-7 or 3-9x40 would be the ticket
Yes, being inexperienced I plan on trying a couple methods, or mixing them. I plan to pick an area with south facing slopes with meadows and try to glass from a nearby hill. Then spot and stalk, play the wind and see how close that will get me. I also will try to still hunt some wooded areas I've seen sign. Hopefully I can get away to put in a decent amount of time to get some experience.


Definitly do... I find I need to adjust the comb for cheek weld on every rifle I own. You can start by using anything bendable, tape and magazines, foam, or whatever you can think of. You just need to get a feel for the height and shape you need to add to your comb to get a good clear sight picture instantly when you shoulder your rifle. For the final addition I custom make mine out of thick grade veg tan leather and lace them onto the butt stock. That sounds awesome, I'll be picking up materials today and see how I make out. I only have 1 rifle (and 1 shotgun) so easy to keep focus on the one fitting :)

Cheers!

[troutseeker]

Best of both worlds for me, iron sights on my .375 Ruger as well as a 3x9x42 scope in Warne quick detach rings!