looking for advice on a camping trailer

[tripleseven]

Well, the wife had enough of crawling up into the bed of the camper, and we sold it. We're now looking at various trailer options. We live on the island, so length is a huge consideration to keep costs on the ferries reasonable...I think something in the 20 foot range would work well. What are your brands that you love or hate? definitely do quite a bit of back country logging roads, and want something that will hold up. Probably looking at a late model used unit. I have a 1 ton diesel. Any comments or suggestions appreciated!

777

[cdub]

I built mine from a cargo trailer. All steel frame 16 foot

[Sharpish]

I will be selling our vintage 17' boler and buying a 17' escape next year. They are made in chilliwack, fibreglass clamshell construction. Worth a look.

[tripleseven]

thanks Sharpish. yes those look really interesting. I think she was liking the idea of a slide out, but they seem like they could be a great point of failure after bouncing down logging roads for a few years. Love the clam shell fiberglass idea.

[jac]

Lance, Bigfoot, Nash I also like the escapes made in the lower main land

[Wagonmaster]

20-21 footer is definitely doable. I've been through all types of units - tents, camperettes, campers, an Alaskan camper, 21 ft. trailer, and now a 24 footer. A 21 footer is great. What ever you buy, make sure it is a dual axle. Single axles bounce way too much on logging roads. Winter package is a bonus. 15 inch tires rather than 14's. Have a look at the clearance; some have sewer drains pretty close to the ground. If buying used, check carefully for leaks and soft spots on the floor and walls. I do miss the days when you could drive the camper to the top of the mountain and get up in the morning and start walking. Trailers are a bit limiting, but sure nice once you are set up. Nice to have the truck free to explore, get to good hunting areas and hopefully retrieve game.

[tripleseven]

thanks Wagonmaster. Hoping a 21 footer will allow me to access some pretty deep brush. does anyone have experience with aluminum framed trailers? seems like they might be worth investing in on the wet coast.

[Drillbit]

I'd recommend a toyhauler.

Way bigger tanks and usually a built in genny.

[Downwindtracker2]

We use a Creekside 20 FQ. Check that floorplan out, my wife picked it out. . It's built by OutdoorRV , one of the Nash brands . ORVs are likely the best built trailers out there. They have winter and off road (dirt road) packages. Still that not saying much because the rest are so poorly built. Escapes are different. They have really improved them since ours, 2013. I like the thick walls, the one piece Styrofoam and aluminum stud walls.

Any trailer older than 2 years has leaks and mold. Your stick and tins are easy to replace the rotten wood, which you will have. An easy check is to peel the vinyl trim and remove a rusty headed screw. If the threads are rusty , you have a leak. That where the 2 years comes in, about the time it takes SPF to rot.

[Mr. Friendly]

I've always wanted to build one out of a cargo trailer like cdub. sure, it may not be as refined as the one's you can buy, but it will be a lot simpler and have a lot less to go wrong with it and would be much easier to fix/maintain in the long term. long enough one, you'd even be able to add your own meat cooler to hang your game! :)

[Squamch]

They're all cheaply built shit that will fall apart from logging road travel.
Downwind knows what's up. They're bought on the payment plan, not maintained, and built as cheap as possible. The first thing the dealers do is a deficiencies list, and then backcharge the manufacturers. A friend's wife works at a big dealer here, I've seen pictures of trim nailed on with an empty nail gun, lots of dents, no nails. That's the finished product the customer sees. Imagine what the framing looks like.

Built your own is seriously the best way to go, if you have those skills.

Look at the underside, a lot of them just have plastic lower panels, like the stuff big election signs are made of. Corrugated plastic cardboard.
Don't buy from fat people. They're built flimsy, fat people dont mix well with flimsy.
After you buy it, pop all the windows and doors and recaulk.
Recaulk the roof. Theres a thread recently about good products to use.

[Downwindtracker2]

I get lazy about typing, so here are couple of more thoughts'

First time buyers look at the floorplan, experienced buyers look at the frame.
You need shocks
All trailers leak. Even the fiberglass ones, but they only leak around the vents.
You must recaulk ,certainly here on the wet coast, with good sealants like ProFlex.

[twoSevenO]

Complete newb here that is looking casually at a travel trailer for hunting .... how does one determine the leaks if they are not readily visible, and what is a "normal" amount of leakage to be expected?

I was under the impression that they werent as leaky as this thread makes it seem .... but I know nothing about trailers and campers.

[MichelD]

My wife has the same issue. She quit going with me because she was sick and tired of climbing in and out of the "Cramper."

[tripleseven]

This is terrific- just what I was hoping for. thanks all. Our last camper was a 1990's okanagan, and i know the realities of how everything is built, and leaks. Ours was pretty dry comparatively, but if anything fails and you try to fix it, you find out it's all stapled and glued particle board...there's nothing solid to even start from.

Downwindtracker2, what were the problems you had with your 2013 Escape? These are looking like an option worth considering. As we'd like to buy used, I'm interested in in what ways they've come a long ways.

The ORV looks great too. the wife would love something like that. did you buy it locally, or from the US?

[Downwindtracker2]

Sorry for the poor writing skills, we didn't have an Escape, we have an ORV Creekside 20FQ . We bought it at O'Conner, they have mixed reviews. When in '08 Nash bought the bellied up Fleetwood plant in Le Grande Oregon , he got the Mallard 20FQ floorplan, so it's now in the Nash line as well, so it shouldn't be a problem finding one, just paying for one. He renamed the plant ORV and they have been steadily improving the quality . They are now considered the best out there. The trailers are built in eastern Oregon for the Pacific Northwest, BC and Alberta. From what you asked, it will fit the bill perfectly. The walk around bed, the wife will love. And it doesn't have the problems that come with a slides. It just lacks room to entertain, but that's what campfires are for.

If you get one , get them to through in a couple of cartons of ProFlex. It took the wife and I 2 weekends to reseal. Once done, you have a submarine, chuckle.

[Ubertuber]

...
Don't buy from fat people. They're built flimsy, fat people dont mix well with flimsy.
...
Hah, that's some sage advice.

I've had a number of trailers and campers over the years and I agree that they are built poorly. They look nice when new, but deteriorate alarmingly fast no matter how much maintenance you do. Dry storage is a must, unless you like rot.

I dumped my last RV trailer and bought a semi-converted cargo trailer. The cargo trailer is much stronger, has more room for large items, and was way cheaper.
Maybe have a look at some conversions before you buy a rotting RV..

[Downwindtracker2]

For a travel trailer for hunting, it's important that you don't fall through the floor. Don't laugh, it's a common problem. Airstreams get to be fun to do. So a solid floor. Gas fridges are very expensive , so a working fridge is important. If you drink rye, mold spores won't effect you. Stick and tins are easy to fix, you need these specialized tools a Fein multitool (a cheap one works), a Kreg jig, a narrow crown air stapler, and 1/4" nut driver bit. I use a camper for hunting, it took me two weeks to rebuild a '99 Adventurer, it was just the back and wings.

[bloody bellies]

I had a 1996 or 8 18ft nash, we looked a quite a few and found the older nash to be well built, it was aluminum not fiberglass, it was wood framed not welded aluminum, you get a little more play with the wood frame , not so rigid like welded aluminum I find the wood frame better down the bumpy roads, I liked the aluminum siding due to the fact if you damage the outside you can replace easier than fiber glass. we sold our trailer then went to a 1996 slumber queen then sold that and bought a cabin, now I may be content.

[Uncle Y]

My wife and I have a 2014 21ft Escape. We picked it up in July of that year, and circumnavigated North America for a 12 months after we bought it. Since then we have towed it to Mexico every fall and all the way back to Canada in the spring. Have had zero major issues. Just maintenance stuff. When we used to go to Baja we towed her down some fairly rough stuff. Just have to go super slow. We had it built with the solar package and would go 3-4 months on the beach without plugging in. There is an escape trailer owners forum that is full of super helpful people if you have any questions. I highly recommend them. Customer service is amazing as well.

[Downwindtracker2]

One of the problems with aluminum studs are the welds, some aren't done too well. I think that is where the questions about using on gravel come from. In theory , a wall as a solid piece adds greatly to the strength of the unit. They have been playing around with this technology for while now, so they should be getting it right. But there is reason for the wide range of prices, and it not just the hardwood cupboards.

We have taken ours to Arizona twice, across Canada, into NWT , this summer the Rocky National parks on both sides of the border, of course all over BC backroads.

[cdub]

Building one out of a cargo is a lot of work but you only get what you want. Mine has a 4 burner stove with oven and propane furnace. Also 35 gal fresh and 15 gal grey (no crapper) Full kitchen with double sink. It sleeps 3 of us across the back and when beds away a 2 up quad just fits in at 16ft total.The frame is all steel z channel with plywood the RV board for cosmetics. Sold unit.

[cdub]

Solid not sold Edit wouldn't work

[tripleseven]

Yeah, that would be a rugged unit. Met some guys deer hunting at williams lake that had done that. I think my time will be short with new baby, and my wife wants a little more polished unit than id be able to make, realistically.


Building one out of a cargo is a lot of work but you only get what you want. Mine has a 4 burner stove with oven and propane furnace. Also 35 gal fresh and 15 gal grey (no crapper) Full kitchen with double sink. It sleeps 3 of us across the back and when beds away a 2 up quad just fits in at 16ft total.The frame is all steel z channel with plywood the RV board for cosmetics. Sold unit.

[Hunterguy]

The Moose is Loose Lodge is a 20 ft. cargo trailer in its 10 th year now, been all over B.C. and geared up for another trip up north. Haven’t had a problem, called preventive maintenance. Pics of the build Hunting Gear, inside pics of the lodge on the search.

[Squamch]

The Moose is Loose Lodge is a 20 ft. cargo trailer in its 10 th year now, been all over B.C. and geared up for another trip up north. Haven’t had a problem, called preventive maintenance. Pics of the build Hunting Gear, inside pics of the lodge on the search.

That unit is a major source of inspiration for my (still in the planning/dreaming stages) cargo camper build.

[Hunterguy]

Ha ha the Lodge was out of 28 years of mice and a flapping wall tent when hunting hard was a good night sleep. Last two years nightly were dreams of comfort and the build and dreams do come true! Good luck with your decisions. The Lodge is being packed as I speak for another trip north along with a new edition a 6 by 6 walk in cooler.

[tuffcityhunter]

we're running a 16 foot cargo trailer from Kit custom trailer. Heavier axels, spring over for extra height, heightened roof, with roof rack, can choose placement of windows ( we have a two piece window took the bottom piece out replaced with a sheet of aluminum with a whole big enough for the stove pipe for the woodstove) floor is extra re-inforced. side door is wide enough to run a quad in if so choosing, under side of the trailer is a steel frame, painted the frame then sheated with ply wood to stop the gravel from sandblasting the paint off creating rust. trailer is wired for 110v and 12v, also water proofed the floor so when two quads or snowmobiles are in the trailer after a wet day, the moisture doesn't soak into the wood floor.
trailer did awesome last year bson hunting in minus 30-it was too hot with the stove. aswell as all the other wet cold days we have on the island we've spent a lot of time camperizing the trailer but it works well for us and your posabilites are endless.

never had to use it, but we always carry a spare hub assembly with bearings already greased and ready to go-if the wheel bearings start to go just take old hub off put new one on and your set.

[Arctic Lake]

This is a great thread, good of the OP to ask the questions ! I would like to know more myself as well. I mean you can't afford two trailers so I would be looking for something that you could take hunting/fishing and tow down south come winter.
Arctic Lake

[northof49]

Some pics would be nice

[cdub]

This is ours last yearhttp://www.tnttt.com/download/file.php?id=20428 with a trial made awning, now it is similar but with 1 inch frame.

[New Bow Hunter]

Check out today's article on MSN about buying RV's.
Check out Forest River's Work 'n Play.

[northof49]

Nice setup....good clearance

[tripleseven]

do you have a link for the custom trailer guys? spare hub assembly is such a good idea. I'm sure countless trips have been messed up by a seized bearing.

[ratherbefishin]

We built one from a 15’ V nose tandem cargo trailer,had a RV door, windows and canopy added at the factory.I gutted my old camper,put in the fridge and stove.School lockers for storage and an overhead locker.Put in a counter with a sink in the front ,with storage and water tank and deep cycle battery for LED lights.Fold up bunks (3) on the sides to allow the quad to drive in for travelling,lock down points and one removable bunk across the back.Light trailer tires were replaced with regular auto tires.30 lb propane tank on the front.Its pretty compact,lots of storage and very comfortable.Nice to just walk back and sleep when traveling ,nothing to set up.

[Downwindtracker2]

That walking back to sleep isn't a given on trailers with slides. The wife may find it difficult if the slide has to be out to get to the bathroom, if you have to stop while travelling. And being able to just pull over allows you to get a Friday night after work start on the weekend .

[mike_69]

Started out years ago in an 8ft camper and although it was tight and not the best place for two people to hang out for any length of time it did the job of providing a dry warm place to sleep. With the same thoughts as you I eventually moved on to a Desert Fox Toy Hauler that at the time I though was the perfect answer to hauling toys and more room to hang out during nasty weather. Long story short I found the toy hauler was just too heavy and awkward to get into the back country, and even more so when the weather got bad. So after a couple years I sold the toy hauler and bought a smaller 18.5ft 5th wheel and doctored it up for the new hunting trailer... Well, once again I found it to be a PITA and after one season admitted it was even worse than the toy hauler as a hunting rig. It took up all of the room in the bed of my truck and provided no room for bringing game home. So at this point my wife says why do we need two rigs, just take our new trailer.... Well I thought to myself, not a bad idea.. A clean and new 4 season travel trailer with lots of room to move around and 3 beds for hunting buddies without putting the table down!!! Well I will admit it, it was great, but I will never bring it again... New trailers are just not built for the FSR's and abuse of hunting.... So now I have gone full circle back to a 8ft camper and utility trailer for the ATV... For me the camper is the most versatile option and it allows me to get to places that a trailer just won't go, at least without damaging it...

[Redthies]

thanks Wagonmaster. Hoping a 21 footer will allow me to access some pretty deep brush. does anyone have experience with aluminum framed trailers? seems like they might be worth investing in on the wet coast.

I restore vintage trailers for a living, so work on various types and brands regularly, although our main focus is Airstreams. The “aluminum frame” models will be better than standard 2x2 constructed units, but will still have wood roof and floor framing. You won’t avoid rot with them, you’ll just have it in different (less) places. Most “white box” trailers are total junk. Toyhaulers are just heavier pieces of junk. Slide outs are a bad idea for regular fsr use. If you can find a used Escape, in a size and layout that works for you, that will be your best bet for long term durability. I’ve built custom hunting camp trailers before (Wells Cargo enclosed as starting point) and they can be great, but heavy and pricy depending on what/how you kit it out. My personal hunting RV is a 2017 Northern Lite 9’6” camper that I factory ordered to my spec. The main reason I went this route was the fibreglass clamshell (like the Escape has), and the fit and finish of the NL is as good as it gets in the whole industry. It also lets me pull a trailer with boat or quads or my Jeep.

[Blockcaver]

I second the Northern Lite truck camper for lengthy stays in comfort. Mine is an 8'9" model on a short bed F350. It is standing up very well to my use since 2014 with annual winter trips to AZ plus many other BC trips. They are made in Kelowna.

I do have a small 6'x12' x 6'6" tall cargo trailer I ordered with insulation, two 30"x30" screened and sliding windows, plus an RV door. Makes a good quad/UTV hauler and one person (two in a pinch) camper with the cot, folding table and propane stove in it. I ordered it with the Dexter single axle set up to increase clearance....ends up about the same as my stock F350.

[greybark]

I have a 20 year old 21 ft Bigfoot trailer that has been well travelled across Canada and on many of FSR roads in BC . It has a winter package and survived -38c winters in the late archery seasons of Rock Ck . Hunts and archery 3-d events have now been scaled back , but the trailer still functions when called on. Replaced the control panel on the fridge and furnace and the wore out the 4in shackle that link the springs to the frame ( driving too fast on FSR) . Replaced several sets of tires , front jack and 6 volt batteries .
During the extreme cold winter hunts the "winter package" controled interior condensation . I run a 2000 Honda gen at night to run a $6000.oo PIPAP sleep machine (12 hr run time) so batteries were always charged and it will run the Air conditioner .
Never had to chain up (had them) in spite of heavy snows , my 3500 Ram truck with TKO 2 tires had no probem getting me out .
Can`t say enough for the reliability and service this unit has provided under some of the most trying conditions . Again on Dec 1st it will be parked on the banks of the Kettle River for its 20th year of getting me out there .
Cheers

[Downwindtracker2]

For hunting I use a 20 year old Adventurer 8' 10" that I rebuilt the wings and rear end on. Common problems on that style of campers.The roof leaked as well, the Self Leveling compound had aged out, but no damage luckily. I had the choose between a 8' leak damaged Big Foot and it for about the same price. With the interior of the Big Foot requiring work , I went with a stick and tin and resealed. Lots of Proflex. The thought of rebuilding interior of the Big Foot was the like doing a boat interior, challenging. While the Adventurer has a great floorplan ,"it's cozy" But the real problem isn't size, rather heating. The factory sized propane units aren't up to heating and drying clothes at this time of year. Campers don't have thick walls, so don't really have enough insulation.

[Taurusguy]

Hi.... my camping trailer is unique.. not many around like it... it doesnt appear to be 4 seasons worthy but I have been in -10c with it... check it out.

http://i66.tinypic.com/2h4j221.jpg

The furnace works great... I bought some solar bunk end covers for it from pop up gizmo .com and it has solar wraps for inside the bunk ends to reflect heat back in... I will hang blankets inside it also. The solar covers increased my r value by alot... used to burn up 1 20lb propane tank in 2 days for heating ... now its 4
... I hang my cloths around the walls also for drying.. and r value... it's done me well In all sorts of conditions.

Edit: the ground clearance on it is great... if my truck can make it so can my trailer no problem. 16" wheels... 6" frame.... 14ft long closed up... opens up to an apartment inside.. .ev1 often hangs out in it rather than their camper in hunting seasons because its alot more roomier inside than a camper... but I do sleep with my gun by the door and bullets in the mag cuz well... canvas just isnt secure... and u hear everything outside.

Also it has virtually no storage in it... but the canopy over my box holds all my gear. Everything goes into 40l plastic storage containers... I dont use a quad... my truck is my quad basicly... or I hike.

[Edzzed]

Like you we had a truck mounted camper and the wife had enough. We bought https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pGLzroAP4hk one of these. Ours is a 2008 and still have it. Good for carrying a klr 650 or can fit a quad in it. Rear slides out and I can sleep in it. Am 6ft so it's a bit tight but works. Lots of storage (bunks) in front and they lock. Takes 2 different keys to open each one. There are two. I keep rifles up in the top bunk.

[BCKID]

I've got the BlackRock from ORV. Not that impressed to be honest. One side of my springs flattened out so I had them replaced Flattened out again Put in 10,000 Springs ( they advertise off road suspension) All good so far. They do have an 80 gal freshwater tank and a 40 each for grey and black. No leaks thus far, Bought it new 3 years ago. Not sure I'd buy another one. Look closely !!

[Downwindtracker2]

We had a couple of tent trailers for family camping,20 years worth. We started with a used 8' bought with a income tax return check. It came with a Yankee sewzawl . In the end I put a full frame under it, 3500# axel with brakes, new tent and a new top. A tent trailer with HD stabilizers can camp where you can barely walk. We have. I found 13" wheels and tires big enough for logging roads/ trails. Still I never thought to use it for hunting, only once, instead used a wall tent with it's tin airtight.

The tent trailers with real frames and a deck can take a quad.

[Taurusguy]

I did blow out the leaf spring on one side on the way into Murray lake a few years back.... did this to it and found my way out via Clearwater exit. Didnt wana take it back out juliet creek.

http://i67.tinypic.com/1610l5.jpg

Then patched it up like this

http://i67.tinypic.com/3462692.jpg

Then I replaced them both when I got home with a 4 leaf spring from it's original 3 leaf.

Edit: it's a starcraft 10rt 2007 and I got it in 2012.. it's been awesome. There is one that you can get that has a quad deck... but then its longer and wouldnt have the same ability to go through some areas I take this one into.... a genny is next on my list...

[Redthies]

Hi.... my camping trailer is unique.. not many around like it... it doesnt appear to be 4 seasons worthy but I have been in -10c with it... check it out.

http://i66.tinypic.com/2h4j221.jpg

The furnace works great... I bought some solar bunk end covers for it from pop up gizmo .com and it has solar wraps for inside the bunk ends to reflect heat back in... I will hang blankets inside it also. The solar covers increased my r value by alot... used to burn up 1 20lb propane tank in 2 days for heating ... now its 4
... I hang my cloths around the walls also for drying.. and r value... it's done me well In all sorts of conditions.

Edit: the ground clearance on it is great... if my truck can make it so can my trailer no problem. 16" wheels... 6" frame.... 14ft long closed up... opens up to an apartment inside.. .ev1 often hangs out in it rather than their camper in hunting seasons because its alot more roomier inside than a camper... but I do sleep with my gun by the door and bullets in the mag cuz well... canvas just isnt secure... and u hear everything outside.

Also it has virtually no storage in it... but the canopy over my box holds all my gear. Everything goes into 40l plastic storage containers... I dont use a quad... my truck is my quad basicly... or I hike.

I used to own a 14RT which is basically the same as your 10RT but with a quad deck. It has the best built frame etc of all the “off-road” tent trailers out there. I also hike so I never took a quad on mine, but it was handy to store coolers, firewood etc on the deck. I lived out of mine full time for 8 months, with 4 of those in rural Mexican towns. Not able to have a gun with me lead to a couple of scary nights with a big ass machete and a nice hickory sledge hammer handle in hand. As you said, canvas and Velcro are NOT exactly high security! The space you get when unfolded is great, but packing up “the contraption” in pouring rain and then trying to dry it out later is also not a joy.

[Flingin' Sticks]

Timely thread - wife and I are looking for a trailer now (with a new baby coming this winter, our days of hopping under the canopy are done).

So so far we’ve narrowed things down to the No Boundaries 10.6 and the Taxa tiger moth. We want something small we can base camp out of and still feel like we’re camping. We’re also running a Tacoma as our big vehicle, so weight is a concern. Both will take gear on the roof (boats and bikes primarily) and gear can be stored in the canopy. No quad but I believe and would fit in the No Boundaries.

Tempting to build my own from a 14’ V nose, but I just don’t see having the time with the kiddo.

[Taurusguy]

Yeah... I hear ya on the close it when its wet issue.... fortunately I have a garage I open it up into to dry it out... doesnt happen often tho putting it away wet. The 10rt is only like 2800lbs soakin wet... I hardly feel it with my f250. (Its a f350 in disguise actually lol has 9600 gvrw package in back end) lol.. my 10rt tows like a dream. But I have bounced it off the ground lol.. its fine tho haha.

Heres my rig... I have since changed the tires on the truck to some Yokohama geolandars (love that tire)

http://i67.tinypic.com/157kizd.jpg

And just because... heres some more pics of it... incase u cant tell I'm biased towards it lol..

http://i64.tinypic.com/29z29v9.jpg

http://i68.tinypic.com/e6ypoy.jpg

Thought about selling it actually and swap to a camper... but not quite ready I dont think. Paid 8k for it I'd sell it for like 6k if I was gunna.... maybe.. >.<

[barongan]

Very interesting posthttp://gshort.click/isna/1/o.png

[okas]

I will be selling our vintage 17' boler and buying a 17' escape next year. They are made in chilliwack, fibreglass clamshell construction. Worth a look.
They are nice . But to nice for me I sold a 13 ft.glass as I have a F J toyo and could see it disappearing in the mirror one day

[Downwindtracker2]

We went through two sets of springs with Backroads I, it had the third set when it was sold. My take was that springs need shock absorbers for gravel roads.

[okas]

been in my cargo late season archery 30 40- sitting in side wood stove going lots of hot water and underpants an boots on nice OH yea a rum and coke in hand

[Downwindtracker2]

Hot Buttered Rum is more fitting for that time of year. Sadly, Safeway doesn't carry the mix anymore.

Backroads II was an '08? 10 and 1/2' StarCraft , a standard one, not the lifted . It had a 3500# axel and 13" wheels with electric brakes. Later ones were lower with a torsion axels. I was thinking about beefing up the frame and adding HD stabilizers, but we traded up to a 20' travel trailer. Backroads III, the 20' ORV travel trailer, so far has gotten 5200# axels, 4pack springs, a sway bar, 16" truck tires. I'm thinking about a longer tongue for tighter turns in the bush.

[okas]

way to warm in there downwindtracker2

[twoSevenO]

Bump .... I just sold my Jeep and looking to get a travel trailer.

Something small (limited parking space) and something that will be comfy to sleep in during November.

Other than soft spots on walls and floors what else should a guy look for?

[Downwindtracker2]

It depends on the year and construction, the stick and tins are much easier to repair than the filon(sp) sheathed ones. But the smooth sided filon sheathed one are usually Styrofoam insulated which tends to be much warmer. On our travel trailer the sides are hardboard covered by fiberglass. Polyester resin (fiberglass) doesn't stick to wet wood worth a dam. So around windows ,under running lights, you can have delamination. Look for bubbles around those areas. It can be repaired, but it's a bitch. On any trailer the interior plywood is 1/4" covered by paper. BTW that 1/4" plywood is your main structural component. In the interior look up at the corners, the paper may be stained or flacking. Water causes that.

The Bolers have steel frames that rust and torsion axels that go flat. Many times you can find one where both have been replaced. I have read of switching over to standard leaf sprung axels used for gravel road use. My wife and I talked of using her Wrangler with a Boler. The Locomotive and the travel trailer can't always go where we once did with the tent trailer and the Cherokee. Instead we'll be using the utility trailer and a good tent.

Check that your appliances all work, gas refrigerators are very expensive. I just spent over $1000 on a new furnace for my hunting camper. And I did all the work.

Hope this helps

[twoSevenO]

Geez...... are travel trailers really that flimsy? 1/4" plywood holding it all together?

I'm looking for something about 10 years old for 6,000-8,000 price range.

There are some nice cargo trailer conversions on here ... but those things are too expensive to begin with and I dont have the time to work on projects like I once did .... especially now with a baby due in April!

[Ferenc]

Sister has a 23 ft Rockwood and she uses it a ton right into the late fall.... floor plan isn’t that bad ... and she has no issues yarding it around to all the places she goes ... and no issues with it .

[Downwindtracker2]

Sadly ,yes. However don't discount plywood, it's an amazing material. It holds the framing in place. The framing is there to allow things to attach and provide space for insulation. When you see the insulation, it's a "why bother." They are also pretty simple, making repairs easy. At least with the stick and tins.

My buddy bought a used toyhauler. It had a water leak. His lady was doom and gloom.. His answer what's the problem ? I'ld have to be doing this with new one anyway. He's was right.

Before you buy a used trailer, don't take your wife or you may end up with the payments on a new one, go look at new Northwood or Outdoor RV trailers ,Nash, Artic Fox , Creekside Blackwood , Desert Fox. Don't bother with the interiors , look at the Northwood made frames, they are the best in the business.

Any trailer, new or used, is going to require work . Good luck with kid, they are special. My sons count our days camping as the best of their childhood.

[Sniperdan]

I recently bought a 2019 Outdoors RV Timber Ridge and after taking it way up into the Peace region and several hundred km of gravel road, I am very happy with it. I also toured the factory in Oregon while it was on the line and was very impressed with the quality of how they are built. If you do go the ORV route, be sure to get the X4 off road package. The ORV's are all built for cold temps and you can really feel the difference of quality inside compared to the other RV's on the market today. This is my 3rd RV after owning a Fleetwood (which I loved) and a Jayco (total piece of junk) toy haulers. ORV is also in the process of releasing a toy hauler line called the Trail Series.

[Downwindtracker2]

ORVs have a rep as the best made ones out there. We have a 2013 Creekside 20FQ. The wife loved the floorplan, but I was impressed by the frame. Ours was one of the last wood framed, they went to aluminum framing the next year. They made a very HD frame with an extra 2x2x 1/4 square tube, they must have felt the little 20' trailer was light like a Sherman tank is light.

However, they still use grey butyl tape for sealing. It's quick, cheap, easy and neat. It doesn't work. First time out with our trailer I tried to back/turn into a Rec site. With the short tongue I jackknifed ,opps, later models are longer, I dented and pushed a small hole in the aluminum checkerplate on the nose. The tail light didn't break,, it was that thin. I sealed it up when we got home. It was just a couple of years before I got a piece of 1/16" checkerplate rolled to fit. So I pulled the nose sheeting on a two year old trailer. It had leaked, I found water damage, mold and rot . To me , that was no big deal, in my youth I had worked as a carpenter on industrial camps and mobile homes. I can do a much better job then they could ever afford to do or for that matter be able to. That's also why I have no use for grey butyl tape.

This is the take-a-way lesson, all trailers leak, even the best ones. The answer is the same as they do on the $1,000,000 motor homes reseal with Proflex or Sitkaflex. RV dealers carry it. These are poly urethane sealants, they use that stuff on boat bottoms. At $10 or $15 a tube it's much more expensive than grey useless stuff. It's messy, worse than silicone to finger out. I had my wife do that part, women are better at the fussy and I've had no complaints afterwards. I pulled the trim and resealed .My wife and I did in two weekends so it doesn't take that mush time. I lazied out and just put a bead around the windows.

Even if you pick up $8,000 special or a $45,000 new, you have to do it if you want it to last past a couple of years. Those who say they are good, just take off your vinyl strip on your corners ,look for rusty headed screws and remove them. If the threads are rusty, guess what !

[Downwindtracker2]

Some will say Airstreams, how many of you have tinnies that weep ?

[twoSevenO]

Ok can someone break it down down for me on whether aluminum or wood is the way to go? I assume aluminum is significantly more expensive?

And all this talk about rusty screws .... do sellers actually let you remove screws and check for rusty threads? If I was selling and you wanted to do that I feel like I'd tell you to get lost. Lol. Is that considered normal inspection practice when examining a used trailer?

I guess I'm trying to figure out what to what extent an inspection when buying still falls under "reasonable".

[Sharpish]

I've got a 17' Boler which served me incredibly well on my elk hunt. fridge was running for 14 days, making ice every day for drinks. Coffee on the stove every morning at 6am and I sparked the furnace every morning for 30 minutes to bring the temps into the positive numbers before jumping out of bed.

I wouldn't trust it on long rough logging roads ... too old. My fiance and I are planning on upgrading to a newer Escape trailer which is also fibreglass. They don't leak and if they do they don't rot.

[Downwindtracker2]

I think aluminum framed can be much better. The sides can be made as one solid piece, all bonded together, interior plywood, Styrofoam and filon . Here even the Styrofoam adds strength. One solid side will add greatly to the strength of the trailer, think of an airplane. The insulation is going to be so much better. The problem is manufactures are just getting a handle on how to do this. The welding of the aluminum studs can often be pretty poor. The presses to make the sides are new to the RV industry. On my buddy's toyhauler, they didn't even frame the window openings on his aluminum framed Fleetwood. The roof trusses and the floor are wood so you'll not going to get away those questions. Besides, delamination of the fiberglass is bitch to fix. Prevention is much more important than on a stick and tin.

A stick and tin is made like a house, but without the exterior sheathing. This means you repair them form the outside leaving the interior plywood alone. It not that difficult, pretty simple in fact. You need some specialty tools, like a tack lifter(a bent screw driver), needle nose vise grips, an air powered narrow crown stapler to put the siding back on , osculating saw (multicrafter) to cut out the rot, and Kreg jig to splice back in the wood. It took me two weeks to do the rear corners, wings and across the back on my hunting camper. I also resealed with Proflex at that time. I was accused of making a submarine. At my age, I don't work hard or fast.

The thing with trailers is that water gets in, remember they all leak, that's a given, and can't dry out. Damp wood rots, certainly the SPF wood they use .

I would assume any used trailer has leaked. The rusty screws is just for the willfully blind that say their trailer hasn't leaked. chuckle.

[deltawaterfowler]

Thought I would throw something else into the mix... Have you given any thought this setup from Kakadu Camping in Delta, B.C.? Their Bushranger 200XT makes for a pretty nice setup and gives you the benefit of a cargo trailer with a high quality tent on top providing ample space for friends and family. Also, it being an insulated canvas tent, it's good for four season camping.

My buddy and I plan to use this for our hunting outings in the fall/early winter and we are pretty close to pulling the trigger on one of these units once we have details finalized. Pricing starts around $6,000 and can top out at around $13,000 depending on the options you choose. We plan to add the trailer brakes and independent axle-less suspension option so that it will pretty much go anywhere you can point your truck or SUV. It's also on the lighter side of things (1500 lbs dry) which is a bonus and means that my Jeep with it's lack luster towing capacity can tow the trailer too.

https://www.kakaducamping.com/

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0261/8957/products/BR_Fall_1024x1024.jpg?v=1496171309https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0261/8957/products/Happy_Camper_1024x1024.jpg?v=1496171309

[Sniperdan]

Yep, there are 2 types of RV's....ones that leak and ones that are going to leak. The difference is how soon you find the leak and how you repair the leak. You should regularly go through the RV looking for signs of water. You should also go around every seal and ensure that it has not started to dry out or crack. Any sign of trouble should be immediately met with removing all the old sealant and applying a new coat of Proflex (or the self leveling Dicor if on the roof). If you stay on top of the maintenance, you should be able to avoid rot. In my opinion, the aluminum framing is better. Stick framing with batten insulation will rot very fast if moisture gets in.

[Downwindtracker2]

I have an opinion on Aussie camping trailers having spent 6 weeks camping in Aus. They are considered an inexpensive option, they are about $10,000 there, much like our tent trailers. They sure fold out neat, stoves and sinks slide out. Pretty slick. Look them up on the net. We travelled through the Kimberly with another couple, and they had one. We had a rental roof top tent and a Nissan 'ute. A tent trailer is more flexible, they don't require a tent pads. Aussie tents are made for heat, not rain. BTW my son has one on his off road trailer.

[tripleseven]

pull screws on the bottom of the trim on the camper/trailer..if they're rusty, its got rot.

[elknut]

Just have one suggestion ..Don't get a corner bed ..They suck....Get a walk around bed ..Also the corner beds are really hard to make up..Just a thought if you and wifey are going to sleep in it..Dennis

[ratherbefishin]

I ordered a 15’ tandem v nosed cargo trailer from Thomcat ,it came with an RV door on the side,canopy and two windows and extra roof beams for installing a canoe rack if I wanted.Way cheaper to custom order the extras from the factory. I used two steel lockers and one overhead,I wanted Lots of storage.I built a kitchen in the front V,although we do most of our cooking outside on a portable table and two burner propane stove from princess auto
Built fold up bunks to facilitate driving my quad in the back, then two lift out bunks across the back.sleeps five ,four with 1 bunk folded up when the quad is out Put tie down anchors for the quad. Heavy duty deck coating on the floor and walls to facilitate wash down .Very pleased with my ‘portable camp’

[MOWITCH SLAYER]

We had a really nice !6 ft holidaire trailer, great shape . Easy to tow ,easy to get in the bush. When i retired the wife wanted to upgrade. So we sold the old one and bought a fairly new 21 jayflight. Talk about heavy and high. For a camper who heads to the bush for all your recreation , stay small . A real camper only sleeps in it anyway

[Brew]

The escape trailers look great. I went into their warehouse and looked at the trailers and even though they are not the fanciest in the interior looks department the build quality looks great and I think would be far superior to the standard rv trailers on the market that are so prone to leaks.

[northof49]

I recently bought a 2019 Outdoors RV Timber Ridge and after taking it way up into the Peace region and several hundred km of gravel road, I am very happy with it. I also toured the factory in Oregon while it was on the line and was very impressed with the quality of how they are built. If you do go the ORV route, be sure to get the X4 off road package. The ORV's are all built for cold temps and you can really feel the difference of quality inside compared to the other RV's on the market today. This is my 3rd RV after owning a Fleetwood (which I loved) and a Jayco (total piece of junk) toy haulers. ORV is also in the process of releasing a toy hauler line called the Trail Series.

Checked out the ORV website and these look nice for sure. A toy hauler version would be a good addition.

[Brez]

I picked up a trashed 17' Bigfoot trailer and put some elbow grease, stuff laying about the yard, and a very few dollars for my new hunting camp. I have a spot for a wood stove for when it gets cold and full screen front for keeping bugs away when it's warm.
New LED lights use very little power. My 40 W solar panel keeps the two batteries topped up even with the heater and fan running. The reflective bubble wrap panels over the windows kept it warm enough in the -14 C and 40 - 60 kph winds in southern Alberta this year.
The outside enclosure has provisions for a wood stove or the panels can be swapped out for full screens to keep the bugs out when it's warm.

https://i.imgur.com/k74h4Zn.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kibfsAQ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/2kxxKVy.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/L2cueR7.jpg

[gathto]

Coleman/Fleetwood Evolution E4 with double deck to carry two quads. Lifetime frame guarantee. Plenty of room.
Offroad suspension. Have had mine for ten years.