mechanical broad heads or fixed blade...

[chowskie]

I have been using mechanical broadheads ever since I started hunting as I was told they fly better. harvested a buck 3 years ago 75yards straight pass broke a rib with one of the blades (blade broken too) and through the heart. I was sold on these considering how tough it was to straight pass through a rib from that range. shooting an 09 pse stinger maxed out 70#. last season shot a buck at 15 yards and was good easy shot right behind the shoulder. only to find my arrow full of blood, blades didn't open... next day i tracked him for hours with lots of blood and spots where he bedded and had pools. sadly the blood trail got thinner until i was on my hand and knees trying to find a spec of blood. I figure I got lungs but was basically shot with a field point.. never found the deer and had to go home that day.

debating whether to switch to fixed blades or just another brand. shooting 125g NAP spitfires.

[tko]

fixed blade all day, just find the one that shoots good for u.

[Surrey Boy]

I use G5 Striker Magnums, got them from Tyee in Campbell River. 125gr, 1 1/2" radius, very durable.

[300rum700]

I used slick tricks and montecs when I bow hunted, they left some mean holes and flew straight.

[139grainsofhell]

Dead ringer rampage two blade mechanical opens every time and my bow isn't super fast and thier deadly and if one were to fail they still cut.

[139grainsofhell]

Slick tricks work well also and fly like a field point

[Mosin]

Fixed blade for, I don't even know the brand. I just used what the guy I bought my crossbow off handed to me. I just sharpened them and when I thought they were super sharp...I sharpened them more. Got my 1st archery buck that season.

[sako79]

I use muzzy mx4 haven't lost an animal and they fly like my field points there are so many good broadheads Elder G5 montec slick tricks Etc

[Xenomorph]

Whichever your arrows like the most, I've used a lot from Rages, Muzzys, Toxics... I still have dozens, if you're in LML area we can meet and I'll let you try some of them, see what fits.

[2tins]

I'm not sure about the other brands but I like the G5 Montecs because they have the pre-season practice broad heads that fly like the real thing so you don't have to tweek your set up too much. Good luck.

[375shooter]

It's all in the shooting technique, shooting form, and how the bow is tuned for this technique and form. Upon release of the arrow, all you should see is the knock sailing forward, like a bullet. There should be no evidence of any fishtailing or proposing. It's a thing of beauty to watch the arrow fly in this manner. So if you've got this happening 100% of the time, there's never a need for a mechanical. Any good fixed blade of "smallish" size will fly virtually as well as a field point, and will penetrate like crazy. I'm not in the bowhunting game any more, but if I was, I would definitely try the Montecs.

[Andrewh]

Have you considered a hybrid? A 1" cut on contact fixed with a set of mechanical blades too.

Bloodsport gravedigger...

[chowskie]

thanks for all the replies and input, I think I will have to give fixed blades a try, as I don't completely trust mechanicals anymore as theres always the chance they will fail.

Question: Are the fixed blades that come with practice heads accurate to the broadhead at long distances like 60+ yards? I just can't wrap my head around relying on a practice head to sight in for the real hunt... as you ARE shooting a different head (dimensions/aerodynamics), unless you've taken a few shots with the real one and confirmed they are the same. I think id still shoot the real broadhead to a bag to justify as I wouldn't want to take any chances on missing that opportunity. sacrificing one broadhead possibly is worth it to me, and can always sharpen fixed blades, and you know for sure where it should fly so I wouldn't have that doubt before taking a poke at an animal.

Hybrids I haven't really looked into them but id imagine they would give you a better sense of security compared to just shooting mechanicals, especially if one has failed before on an animal.

seems like most people are shooting fixed blades

Appreciate all the input :-)

[chowskie]

"
Whichever your arrows like the most, I've used a lot from Rages, Muzzys, Toxics... I still have dozens, if you're in LML area we can meet and I'll let you try some of them, see what fits."






nice, yeah I'm in lower mainland, where do you go to shoot? I used to go to coquitlam fish n game club but the forest has been closed for some time now. only two more weeks till i'll be hunting so I'm trying to get out practicing as much as possible, usually just bring my bow and butt on scouting trips now.

Do you know about a 3d shoot coming up? I heard theres one in semiahmoo or something? Ive been wanting to go to one of these for a while now.

[IronNoggin]

.... shooting 125g NAP spitfires.

I will buy every single one of the Spitfires you wish to lose :wink:
PM Works.

Cheers,
Nog

[gmachine19]

try looking at the QAD Exodus as well. i use this on my xbow and the damage and penetration is amazing

[tko]

i didnt like muzzies, best ones fir me were slick tricks and wasp sledgehammers, the sledgehammers drop after 60 yards but r very accurate for me

[bc_buckshot]

Grimreaper broadhead 100gr..... enough said for mechanical but always heard that slick trick are the cats ass so might one day switch over

[J_T]

I shot two-blade broadheads for years out of my recurve. I shifted to the 125gr G5 Montecs maybe 10 years ago. Fixed blade, cut on contact, durable. I have some blades with 3 kills on them. I shoot these heads out of trad gear and my compound. I find very little difference in the flight between the Montec and target tips.

[allan]

I shoot g5 montecs, I had a problem with mechanicals opening on me while spot and stalk hunting. I threw all my mechanicals out and used montecs. The practice bh or real thing in my opinion fly the same. I typically use different bh for practice then have four sharp bh ready to hunt with. I hate resharpening them.
My montecs have taken wt, bear, Couger, and moose with excellent results.

[caddisguy]

I don't have any first hand experience on the matter, but have also been looking into the subject of fixed blade, replaceable blades and mechanical blades.

The main advantage I hear for mechanical blades is they are more likely to fly like your field tips. The disadvantage being if you hit bone or if you hit the deer on an odd angle, you won't get the penetration you need. I think this goes with tips that have replaceable blades as well.

Fixed blades are just the reverse in advantages/disadvantages. There is a good chance changing over from field tips to fixed blade broadheads, you will need to adjust your sights. From what I read though it's hard to beat a fixed blade broad head w/ blade all the way to the tip for penetration.

Again, not first hand experience... its just what the internet told me and sometimes the internet tells different people different things. Nothing beats actual experience. I will know how my broadheads fly vs the field tips on my bow next weekend.

[WWBC]

I'm weighing my options on this as well.
I have a pack of rage hypodermic plus P and a pack of wasp boss fixed blade.

I wonder if 3 smaller blades do more damage than 2 slightly larger blades?
Both shoot well and the wasp blades are way sharper

[FortBoy]

been shooting grim reaper, 100g, 1 3/8" mechanical s since i started, have never had an issue of broad head not opening, so never tried anything new.by no means am i an expert but for me, if it aint broke..

[stro52]

I have been using QAD exodus blades and they fly the same as field points

[PKernohan]

I use slick tricks. I don't have to adjust my sights at all switching from my field tips to a broadhead as they fly almost identical. Either that or I'm not accurate enough to tell the difference :)

[steveo]

I use slick tricks. I don't have to adjust my sights at all switching from my field tips to a broadhead as they fly almost identical. Either that or I'm not accurate enough to tell the difference :)
Good to know, slick tricks will be on the business end of my arrows this year.

[whitlers]

been shooting grim reaper, 100g, 1 3/8" mechanical s since i started, have never had an issue of broad head not opening, so never tried anything new.by no means am i an expert but for me, if it aint broke..

Same mech for me

[caddisguy]

The broadheads I was recommended at the shop are Montec G5 100gr. It says it's a "crossbow design" (I have a compound bow) and "field tip accuracy". I am sure that is all marketing. Gonna try them out next weekend and hope for the best. Anyone have any experience shooting these broadheads with compound bows? Saw a couple other mentions here but not sure if anyone used them in compound bows.

[ACB]

One thing that everybody knows about mechanical things, is they break! I know a fella that had 2 shots at a early season feeder buck with mechanical broad heads, both shots, one of the broad heads activated early veering the shot both times. Fixed broadheads for me.

[J_T]

The broadheads I was recommended at the shop are Montec G5 100gr. It says it's a "crossbow design" (I have a compound bow) and "field tip accuracy". I am sure that is all marketing. Gonna try them out next weekend and hope for the best. Anyone have any experience shooting these broadheads with compound bows? Saw a couple other mentions here but not sure if anyone used them in compound bows. I buy them for my Dad's crossbow. I've looked at them and don't see any noticeable difference.

I think a large component of this discussion around performance is a question of distance. When we keep our shots close, we see very little difference in performance between a target point and broadhead. Of course I would recommend never taking long shots at a live animal, but many do, and do it successfully. Broadhead performance is much more critical at distance.

One thing to consider with mechanicals. I have never used them, but I have hunted with a few guys that use them. When we've been hunting hard, in bush, in rain, in sun, day after day, they do have issues. I have seen the mechanicals get triggered and open up while hiking, and more than a couple of times, we've recovered a mechanical (from inside a body cavity) that did not deploy on impact with the animals. I've seen guys part way through a hunt, pull all their mechanicals off and spend a day retuning with a fixed blade. I think it depends on what you hunt, where you hunt and the prevelant conditions.

[caddisguy]

That would be nice if I don't have to adjust for short distance. My comfort zone right now is 20 yards. It's easy to judge without a range finder and shorter distances make very little difference until around 3 yards where it hits low, but everything 1-20 yards is a kill shot. After 20, I start to see the drop and my arrows want to go right. The 30 yard pin seems great and I can pull it off "most" of the time, but this is where if I blow my process, it's very noticeable. I think my arrow rest needs to go a hair to the left.

My plan is to practice more with the field tips and see if I can get more consistent at 25-30, making any adjustments (ie: which should only be the rest by a hair) then switch to broadheads and tune if necessary.

If I use a broadheads for practice on a broadhead (foam) target, will it start to get dull fairly quickly? I have 3, so I will probably just use 1 for targets and that way I still have 2 sharp ones for hunting.

Off topic, but since we have the bow crowd around, is shooting small game (ie: grouse) with the same setup for big game (say 45lbs draw) even worth while? I noticed while practicing if I missed my target, I could only find the arrow half the time and half of those times the arrow splintered. If I shoot at grouse (blunt tip?) on a deactivated road, will I wreck the arrow (carbon) or lose it half the time? I am thinking it might not be worth it.

[Andrewh]

After 20, I start to see the drop and my arrows want to go right. The 30 yard pin seems great and I can pull it off "most" of the time, but this is where if I blow my process, it's very noticeable. I think my arrow rest needs to go a hair to the left.


Sounds like your sight/rest are not aligned, try this...

Take a shot at about 6ft into target using a 40 or 50 yrd pin making sure it is perfect execution and level etc, (make very small aiming point on target with a sharpie or sticker). Move your SIGHT accordingly so you are perfect left to right. You might be a little off up and down but no big deal. Then walk back to 40 or 50 (depending on the pin you used) and take another shot, only move the REST to move POI left or right.

[Wild one]

I have used both mec and fixed blade. I now use fix two blade with recurve and with compound I use slick tricks but carry 1 spitfire mec

With mecs I find they fly better and under windy conditions or long shots I proffer them. Down side blades are weaker I have snapped blades hitting ribs on entry causing a smaller hole. I have also witnessed a deer shot with a grim reaper mec where only 1 blade opened. Found the deer but took some extra tracking and it was a great shot

With fixed blades they don't fail do to simple design. Some brands fly really well others need more tuning. Find they are effected more than mecs under windy conditions especially and longer distance. The always cut a good hole and find quality fixed blade have strong blades. I have punched through shoulder blade on a deer blades still in tacked

So over the years I find both have there time to shine. 90% of the shots I take a good flying fixed is king. If it's a little windy or longer shot mec is more accurate. This is why I carry 3 fixed blade and 1 mec in the quiver on my compound.

So over 20 years of bow hunting playing with both mec and fixed this is my experience with them. It is easy to see with what I carry in my quiver they both have there place

[fozzy]

Sounds like your sight/rest are not aligned, try this...

Take a shot at about 6ft into target using a 40 or 50 yrd pin making sure it is perfect execution and level etc, (make very small aiming point on target with a sharpie or sticker). Move your SIGHT accordingly so you are perfect left to right. You might be a little off up and down but no big deal. Then walk back to 40 or 50 (depending on the pin you used) and take another shot, only move the REST to move POI left or right.

What you are desribibing is the walk back tune, here is a good description of what to do https://shootingtime.com/archery/walk-back-tuning-compound-bow/

After you have done that then screw on your broadheads, if your broadheads impact left of your field points move your rest very slightly to the right etc.

[LuckyIfYouGetOne]

Fixed blades all the way...my dad tried mechanical and lost two deer similar to your story...dad went back to fixed no issues since.

[snipersights]

I've used both. mechanicals absolutely drill deer and I've never had a stick personally. If your thinking fixed I recommend Excalibur bolt cutters. They're so accurate and deadly.