Sighting in issue

[RayHill]

Shooting a new rifle for the first time the other day. At 25yards it was shooting to the right of the bullseye 4" after adjusting scope to the left. Next shots were in the same area as last group. I ended up maxing to the left adjustment and still have the rounds impacting at 4" right.

What's going on with this thing?

Scope is a Nikon Monarch 3 on a M-308 mount

[Ferenc]

Beg.. borrow.. steal... a boresighter and go from there.

[Johnny G1]

Yrs ago I had a scope on a 308 that would do the same thing, my brother took it and give it a wack with his hand and the scope went to where you wanted it after that, don't know why but it worked for yrs after with no problem.

[donny.brooke]

When your at the end of your scopes adjustments they will sometimes still click but the reticle wont move anymore. Check all your mounts and action screws. Try to reclomate your scope ( center the reticle ) using a mirror and see if it will move to center.

[tinhorse]

Every time I make adjustments I tap my scope with a screwdriver or just flick it with my finger. One of my scopes never moved until I did this and so I do it to them all now, needed or not.

[RayHill]

Beg.. borrow.. steal... a boresighter and go from there.

The rifle has a large muzzle brake on it that needs to be removed before a boresight will work

[RiverOtter]

A bore sighter will do nothing for your issue, except confirm what you already found.

Something appears "frozen" so your adjustments are not moving the reticle. Set your gun up on bags securely and view a distant object while you twist the windage dial, you should see reticle movement. Tapping the windage knob might free it, though that technique is more for taking up any backlash in the threads after making adjustments.

[hookedonblacktails]

Take the windage adjustment and turn it all the way to the right until its maxed out, then turn it all the way back to the left until its maxed out, then repeat it a couple more times. While you're at it do the same with the elevation. As mentioned things will "stick" inside sometimes, I came across this on the Leupold website I believe, and they suggested rotating the dials all the way back and forth a few times every so often to keep the springs functioning properly but also to lubricate the gears. Not suggesting leupold internals are the same as Nikon but nevertheless it seems like a sound concept that may work on other scopes. Good luck.

[donny.brooke]

4 inches right at 25 yards on a 1/4 inch @ 100 yard adjuster is 64 clicks to zero so maybe something else is up with the setup?

[boxhitch]

yeah, sounds like you are at the max at one end of the adjustment. Easy to prove by running the dial back the other way 20 or 30 clicks and see where the poi goes.
Does that m-308 base have windage adjustment itself?

[358mag]

Ok this is how I do it
4" off bulls eye at 25 yards is a great start . Don't waste any more time at 25 yards .All you will be doing is chasing the dogs tail around and around . Move out to 100 yards , your bullet should still be close to 4 " bulls eye . Now your 1/4" adjustments will means something !!!. Also pack something that your can give your adjustment knobs a decent "tap" after your move there just to make sure nothing is hanging up .
Don't rush take your time . After you get is sighted in were you want it at a 100 yards, just for shits + giggles go back to 25 yards just to see were your point of impact is , you just might be a bit surprised .

[boxhitch]

4" off bulls eye at 25 yards is a great start .Kidding right? Can get closer just looking down the bore

[358mag]

My bore sighting set up works like this .
Gun vise sitting on hot tub cover , I bore sight on a 1" knot hole on my fence 25 ft away . Been doing it this way for 35+ years on count less firearms . A bit red neck but works for me .:-)

[.264winmag]

Tapping a scope to free up backlash can work, but come on this is 2017 you shouldn't have to practice 1970's tricks. Likely the rifle is drilled/tapped a bit out of alignment or something not square with mounting hardware if your windage is maxed out. I would do a box test on scope to see if the adjustments are responding properly, if they are I'd switch to a wind adjustable base or Burris z rings with the plastic inserts.

[Weatherby Fan]

Ok this is how I do it
4" off bulls eye at 25 yards is a great start . Don't waste any more time at 25 yards .All you will be doing is chasing the dogs tail around and around . Move out to 100 yards , your bullet should still be close to 4 " bulls eye . Now your 1/4" adjustments will means something !!!. Also pack something that your can give your adjustment knobs a decent "tap" after your move there just to make sure nothing is hanging up .
Don't rush take your time . After you get is sighted in were you want it at a 100 yards, just for shits + giggles go back to 25 yards just to see were your point of impact is , you just might be a bit surprised .


I'm sorry but if your 4 inches off the bulls eye at 25 yards you'll be 16 inches off the bulls eye at 100 and thats well off the paper !

[REMINGTON JIM]

Yup ! When your that FAR off at 25 its only gets WORST as the range increases - sound like that rifles scope mounts are way out of alignment to the rifle bore ! Better get some one who KNOWs what to check look it over ! jmo RJ

[358mag]

I'm sorry but if your 4 inches off the bulls eye at 25 yards you'll be 16 inches off the bulls eye at 100 and thats well off the paper !

Yes in theory , but over the years I have found out a that is not always the case .
Have witness more guys shot time and time again at 25 yards , adjust -adjust -adjust and still get no closer to the bulls eye . I call it chasing the dogs tail . Always entertaining going to the rifle range and watching someone trying to sight in a new scope !!!.
Like I said this is how I do it and most times I can be on target line at 100 yards in 2-3 shots . Then comes the fine tuning .
Another word of advice , only do windage or vertical adjustments one at a time . Saves a lot of time + ammo .

[RayHill]

The base is mounted on a one peace upper pick a teeny rail. I think I was having the same issue with a Aimpoint red dot site I had on it. I'm going to try out tapping the scope and see if that helps it

[.264winmag]

Sounds like the mount/rail is not square to the bore. Tap away but...

[Rhyno]

Sounds like the mount/rail is not square to the bore. Tap away but...

This is my thoughts as well.

[RayHill]

Sounds like the mount/rail is not square to the bore. Tap away but...

How do you fix that?

[RiverOtter]

How do you fix that?

Firstly, don't take out your frustration on the scope, as I'm doubtful its the culprit here. Having the same problem with a previous scope on said rifle is fairly damning evidence.

You didn't mention what rifle it was, but a Leupold STD base and rings are windage adjustable.

Lastly, do you know the history of said rifle?
Remember a Ruger Mini 30 that a buddy bought used years ago that exhibited the same issue, only much worse. In his case it was a bent barrel. When he pressed the seller on the issue, it came to light that the gun was involved in a quad accident, but being it was in a gun boot, it showed no visible signs of trauma.

[.264winmag]

How do you fix that?

Last rife I encountered with similar problem the Burris z posi align rings worked great

[.264winmag]

https://youtu.be/wcRAX5OLtJE


Classic video lol
But gets the point across

[RayHill]

Firstly, don't take out your frustration on the scope, as I'm doubtful its the culprit here. Having the same problem with a previous scope on said rifle is fairly damning evidence.

You didn't mention what rifle it was, but a Leupold STD base and rings are windage adjustable.

Lastly, do you know the history of said rifle?
Remember a Ruger Mini 30 that a buddy bought used years ago that exhibited the same issue, only much worse. In his case it was a bent barrel. When he pressed the seller on the issue, it came to light that the gun was involved in a quad accident, but being it was in a gun boot, it showed no visible signs of trauma.


The rifle is is brand new from the dealer it's a Troy PAR308win I have a Nikon M-308 one piece mount and rings with a Nikon monarch 3 scope

[KodiakHntr]

Definitely sounds like the holes aren't lined up with the bore.

OPotions would be trying the posi-align system previously mentioned or windage adjustable Leupold. A one piece mount that doesn't allow you to correct for it simply won't work.

[shortrange]

I saw a video on YouTube that talked about this. Something about seating the prism or whatever. I tap my Trijicon whenever I make an adjustment.

[358mag]

The rifle is is brand new from the dealer it's a Troy PAR308win I have a Nikon M-308 one piece mount and rings with a Nikon monarch 3 scope
Would love to be able to have a hands on look at your set up , sure its not all that bad , just something is not set up right .

[.264winmag]

I saw a video on YouTube that talked about this. Something about seating the prism or whatever. I tap my Trijicon whenever I make an adjustment.

Wouldn't recoil from firing do the same thing? I highly doubt a quality scope such as a trijicon requires either, but fill your boots. Any scope I find that needs such attention goes in the trash, ain't nobody got time for that...

[Brno22F]

Check to make sure that your scope has been mounted with the elevation adjuster on the top and the windage on the right hand side. I saw a guy at the range who had his scope mounted 90 degrees to this with windage on top and elevation on the left side. No matter how much he dialed the windage it still shot to the right with the scope in this position.

[Fisher-Dude]

My bore sighting set up works like this .
Gun vise sitting on hot tub cover , I bore sight on a 1" knot hole on my fence 25 ft away . Been doing it this way for 35+ years on count less firearms . A bit red neck but works for me .:-)

Remind me not to spy thru that hole any more! :shock:

[358mag]

Remind me not to spy thru that hole any more! :shock:

There will be no warning shot:p

[Elkaddict]

It should be fairly easy to tell if something is out of alignment with the rail on that setup. Sight down the rail or hold a straight edge to it to see if there is a bend or kink in it where the handguard attaches to the receiver. If the rail is one continuous straight line then measure the distance from the barrel to the handguard where the barrel exits the handguard. The barrel should exit dead center. With a rail that long if something is cockeyed it should stand out if it's not true to the bore.

[Pinewood]

Where are you located?

[Sinperama]

Shooting a new rifle for the first time the other day. At 25yards it was shooting to the right of the bullseye 4" after adjusting scope to the left. Next shots were in the same area as last group. I ended up maxing to the left adjustment and still have the rounds impacting at 4" right.

What's going on with this thing?

Scope is a Nikon Monarch 3 on a M-308 mount


When you're max to the left, loosen the cap screw, lift it up a bit and turn it to the right all the way making sure the bottom part doesn't turn.
Then try zeroing again without paying attention to what you're seeing on the turret itself.

Once you're satisfy with you zero, loosen the top screw again, then turn the cap to line the 0 mark with the bottom part.
Push it down and tighten the screw gently.
That should solve the issue.

If that's not an option or doesn't work, check the followings:
- You may have defective scope.
- Your un-intentional compensation when pulling the trigger or bad flinching habit.

If none of the above works, find another hobby :)

[.264winmag]

When you're max to the left, loosen the cap screw, lift it up a bit and turn it to the right all the way making sure the bottom part doesn't turn.
Then try zeroing again without paying attention to what you're seeing on the turret itself.

Once you're satisfy with you zero, loosen the top screw again, then turn the cap to line the 0 mark with the bottom part.
Push it down and tighten the screw gently.
That should solve the issue.

If that's not an option or doesn't work, check the followings:
- You may have defective scope.
- Your un-intentional compensation when pulling the trigger or bad flinching habit.

If none of the above works, find another hobby :)

Does the monarch 3 have some sort of zero stop set up? If not, a maxed out elevation/windage adjustment is just that, maxed out. 'Fooling' the turret by making it say 'zero' won't gain a thing...

[Shooter Jr.]

When you're max to the left, loosen the cap screw, lift it up a bit and turn it to the right all the way making sure the bottom part doesn't turn.
Then try zeroing again without paying attention to what you're seeing on the turret itself.

Once you're satisfy with you zero, loosen the top screw again, then turn the cap to line the 0 mark with the bottom part.
Push it down and tighten the screw gently.
That should solve the issue.

If that's not an option or doesn't work, check the followings:
- You may have defective scope.
- Your un-intentional compensation when pulling the trigger or bad flinching habit.

If none of the above works, find another hobby :)

That will do nothing. Optics are built with a maximum internal adjustment, changing the elevation dial to zero wont change your total erector tube travel. Unless I'm mistaken, the M-308 only has a zero reset feature, not a zero stop.

Troy makes quality stuff and I have a hard time believing the picatinny rail on the upper is to blame, but weirder things has happened...
I wouldn't bother messing around with anything else until you can verify erector tube movement within the scope. Get a bore sighter, or use a grid target and a fixture to hold you rifle down securely and watch for movement. That alone will tell you whether the problem lies within the scopes traveling assembly, or in the mounting hardware. My money is on the mounting hardware.

I had a Remington 700 I could not bore sight, I could not bring the reticle over far enough. It had weaver bases, Leupold PRW rings and was holding on a Leupold VX-3. Bought brand new (but exactly the same) weaver bases and that solved that.

[MikeC]

Did you torque your scope rings or just tighten them up? Recently had a buddy with a similar problem and he had his scope rings way too tight not allowing anything to move inside.