What are the best gun cleaning practices?

[nolimits]

I have a question to all those experienced and well trained/researched pros out there, what are the best ways to keep your guns clean, well performing, without risking any damages. The advice I received when I started out resulted recently in discovery of copper build up in the bore and serious crown damage. Suggestions for proper cleaning equipment and supplies and cleaning frequency is also appreciated.

[ryanonthevedder]

Hoppes oil, soft brush, and finish with cotton patches? I clean as often as I care to and after shooting or a trip. Doesnt take more than a few minutes each time... but I am no expert.

How did you damage your crown while cleaning?

[Ferenc]

For the cleaning rod J.Dewey Mfg Co Inc good quality brand.... Sweets 7.62... And for the pack a Bore snake along with the Otis cleaning pak... Each to their own.. It's what I use... Keep the end of the barrel taped when out in the field.

[RiverOtter]

One piece teflon coated rod and quality bore guide; Tipton, Dewey etc., and only clean when accuracy drops off. Anymore, I just use Wipe Out and let it do 90% of the work. If you have excess copper fouling, CR-10 or Sweet's is the ticket, but don't mix them with other solvents. Rubbing alcohol between stages is good for removing residual, but always finish off with a light coat of bore oil; Butches gun oil is a good one.

Keep your muzzle taped with electrical tape and keep a few wraps on the barrel for replacement. If you have moisture concerns on an extended hunt, a bullet down the bore does wonders, then reseal with electrical tape.

[Swissrallyman]

Tried it all over the years, now using almost exclusively Wipe Out and the Accelerator if needed. And KG gun oil here and there. One piece rod is a must along with a bore guide. I like a bit of Ballistol here and there...mainly for the smell...mhmmm

[Iltasyuko]

Use Wipeout and be happy.

[sako79]

Wipe out wipe out wipe out

[nolimits]

Will the "Wipe Out" take care of the possible copper fouling as well? Do you use it in combination with copper wire brush? Will just running a simple patch remove it all?

[Iltasyuko]

Yes W/O will clean the copper fouling and do a better job than most products, with the least effort. I use patches only with W/O.

You can always rub some Hoppes #9 on the outside of the barrel just to add that sweet gun scent.

[Boner]

Will the "Wipe Out" take care of the possible copper fouling as well? Do you use it in combination with copper wire brush? Will just running a simple patch remove it all?

You can run wipeout-patch out with a brush. It's supposed to get sudsy, but I never noticed that. A few strokes with the brush and then push patches thru until they come out clean. This stuff works great for Barnes bullets which I find foul more than the lead and copper bullets.

I'm a new big fan of Hoppes gun oil now after spending an afternoon cleaning the surface rust off of my shotgun.

[375shooter]

I never leave my barrels fouled. Powder or copper residue is never left to sit in the bore. After each range session or hunting episode (shot or shots fired), I give it a cleaning. I rarely shoot more than about 12 shots between cleanings. Copper fouling that is left in the bore for extended periods of time, is more difficult to remove, and powder residue has a tendency to attract moisture. No cleaning rods for me. I only use pull throughs. No chance of land or crown damage.

I start by filling the bore with Wipe Out and then turn the rifle several times during the time it takes for the solvent to turn from foam to liquid. I then pull 2 dry patches through to remove the solvent and residue. Repeat first and second steps. At this stage solvent comes out with very little blue colour indicating copper is all removed*. Then I use a bronze brush saturated with a good powder solvent (Butches Bore Shine, etc.) to remove any remaining powder residue and carbon. Pull through 10 times, followed by a few dry patches. At this point bore is clean. If I plan to store the rifle for a while, I'll oil the bore. All the metal parts will also get a coating of oil to prevent rust. The next time I take the rifle to the range, or out hunting, I'll remove all of the oil from both the bore and chamber. No fouling shots are needed because most of my rifles will print the first shot to same point of impact as fouled-bore shots.

*If a bore is an especially rough one or if many shots were fired, it may take several more repeats of the process until solvent on patch comes out mostly clear, meaning copper is removed. Bore will become easier to clean as time passes.

[RiverOtter]

Better not tell my Montana it should be cleaned every dozen rounds. Last time at the range it printed a 5/8 and 1/2", 110 yard groups.
Honestly couldn't say when it last seen solvent or a patch, but it'd be safe to say well north of 150 TTSX'S ago.....

[ryanonthevedder]

Saw this one a while back... a few different products tested. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_ud2M1gGlU

I'll have to keep an eye out for that wipe out stuff. Sounds pretty popular

[375shooter]

Better not tell my Montana it should be cleaned every dozen rounds. Last time at the range it printed a 5/8 and 1/2", 110 yard groups.
Honestly couldn't say when it last seen solvent or a patch, but it'd be safe to say well north of 150 TTSX'S ago.....

Just saying that it's what I do. Read somewhere long ago that copper in bore causes pitting. Don't know if true, or not. Don't want to take a chance, I guess.

[Quince]

Wipeout, when needed. Remember it will eat your copper brushes if you use them. Usually leave one fouling shot through barrel before hunting.

[RiverOtter]

No sweat. I'm that way with bolt maintenance and keeping the action and chamber spiffy. I used to be fussier with the bore, but never could see a benefit at the range, so opted to start letting the gun tell me when it needed to be cleaned.

[HarryToolips]

Better not tell my Montana it should be cleaned every dozen rounds. Last time at the range it printed a 5/8 and 1/2", 110 yard groups.
Honestly couldn't say when it last seen solvent or a patch, but it'd be safe to say well north of 150 TTSX'S ago.....
Same here, I never clean my bore until my groupings start spreading or if it's been in the wet weather..and yes I agree with the one-piece cleaning rod, and when using I remove my bolt and only push the brush, patches etc in the direction the bullet travels..

[Singleshotneeded]

After shooting it at the range before the season or during a hunt, run solvent patches through the bore until they come out clean, and then a patch with G96 through it, as well as wiping down the rest of the gun. G96 is also good up north because it doesn't stiffen up in the cold like oil based products. Whilst you're hunting keep your bore covered with some electrical tape or one of those finger condoms if you prefer, and give it a wipe and a pass through the bore with the G96 if the gun got wet. The end of the season I clean the bore with Wipe Out before wiping it down with G96 and then putting the gun away until the weather warms up again...

[REMINGTON JIM]

Just saying that it's what I do. Read somewhere long ago that copper in bore causes pitting. Don't know if true, or not. Don't want to take a chance, I guess.

NO it is NOT TRUE ! copper fouling will not pit a Barrel no matter how long its in there for ! RJ

[brian]

Just saying that it's what I do. Read somewhere long ago that copper in bore causes pitting. Don't know if true, or not. Don't want to take a chance, I guess.

Ammonia based copper cleaners can pit the bore if they are left in too long. Some of the old gun powders were corrosive and you'd need to get those out right away. But copper itself is not corrosive to steel and I would have a hard time believing such a soft metal could cause much damage steel. I'd be more afraid of damage caused by over cleaning, unless that particular rifle shot better clean. I have found most my rifles shoot better with some fouling in them.

For thorough cleaning I use wipe out and usually let it sit overnight, I do that once or twice a season when I'm shooting more. Otherwise I usually do a partial cleaning after rainy day hunts to make sure everything is dry and re-oiled.

[Seeadler]

As little as possible is the correct answer.

Pull through cleaners can absolutely damage the bore and crown.

[nolimits]

Thank you all for your input. It seems that the Wipe Out is a very popular choice here. I will definitely give it a go. I will also invest in high quality, one piece, coated gun rod and some gun oil. I am also leaning towards doing the cleaning once or twice in the season, unless I would go shoot a lot, or as it was the case on several of my trips up north for me, very, very dusty conditions, whit the dust sticking to everything, rifle included. I guess for the trip I will also invest in bore snake.

Anything else worth considering?

[Seeadler]

I use mostly boiling water and synthetic ATF on my guns. Ammonia is easy to find. All the things are much cheaper than the little bottles of gun cleaner.

[Ohwildwon]

Better not tell my Montana it should be cleaned every dozen rounds. Last time at the range it printed a 5/8 and 1/2", 110 yard groups.
Honestly couldn't say when it last seen solvent or a patch, but it'd be safe to say well north of 150 TTSX'S ago.....

^^^ this...

Its also a stainless steel barrel...

[375shooter]

As little as possible is the correct answer.

Pull through cleaners can absolutely damage the bore and crown.

A pull through is a cord with a loop tied on one end to hold a patch, and a brass weight on the other end. Please explain how this will absolutely damage a bore and crown. Maybe you're thinking of something else.

[375shooter]

NO it is NOT TRUE ! copper fouling will not pit a Barrel no matter how long its in there for ! RJ


:shock: No smiley face, Jim? I didn't claim it. Just read it in a gun magazine many years ago. Couldn't see it to be true, though.:smile:

[Seeadler]

A pull through is a cord with a loop tied on one end to hold a patch, and a brass weight on the other end. Please explain how this will absolutely damage a bore and crown. Maybe you're thinking of something else.

If not pulled straight through, the cord will abrade the bore and crown. This has been known for a long time. There was even an inspection stamp "W" for this type of wear on a Lee Enfield.

[.264winmag]

Shoot more clean less x2

[MichelD]

I was a real zealot with a Remington Model 700 243, my first (and only) new-in-the box rifle I bought in 1976 and I believe I damaged the bore and possibly the crown by over cleaning. It's a retired closet queen now.

[caddisguy]

I'm no expert (ie: knowing the science behind all the chemicals and understanding all the reactions, oxidization, corrosion and what not) but I have had a lot of guns for many years. I used to clean all my guns obsessively after any amount of use, until the patches came through without even a hint of lead/powder/copper and often a complete detail strip, same day. Then I realized spending an hour or two on each gun and sometimes multiple guns was insane. My guns are relatively inexpensive and definitely not worth investing a couple hours after each use for X years, as the man hours exceed the value of the gun very quickly. I realized that even new guns are test fired and some sit on the shelf for years and they don't have any pitting. Neither do mine after the last 15 years of half-ass cleaning. If I go target shooting and fire a few dozens of shots, I give them a decent cleaning, but for general hunting purposes, I just fire a couple rounds through at the beginning of the season and make sure they are zeroed in, shoot a critter or two during the season and give them a decent cleaning (hoppes solvent, g96, oil) before putting them away for storage at the end of the season. The only thing they get in the mean time is regular checks to make sure there are no obstructions in the barrel, making sure they are 100% dry before I put them away and a bit of oil every month or so.

My stainless 30-06 has actually spent the last 4 years in cloth camo tape and takes a while to dry off. I meant to un-tape it and clean it up after each spring and fall season, but never got around to it. When pieces of tape do come off or I peel some back out of curiosity I haven't seen any surface rust.

If I had a $5000 gun I might spend more time cleaning it, but still not sure if it would really make a difference or if I might be doing more harm than good.

Target shooters (guys that fire a few hundred rounds at that range... mostly applies to pistol shooters) will probably need to clean to keep the guns working properly, but my belief is that for hunting use, cleaning after each outing or a few shots here and there isn't needed.

[RiverOtter]

Fact is most guys clean for peace of mind, not because their rifle actually needs it. Even in the dustiest of conditions, a taped muzzle and closed bolt will keep your bore safe. That said, I use a fair bit of Rem-Oil cleaning up exterior parts and removing dirt and grime from the bolt, trigger, follower etc. Nothing a couple Q-tips and few patches won't take care of at base camp.

[brian]

If not pulled straight through, the cord will abrade the bore and crown. So a cord will abrade steel? I would be more worried about the steel abrading the cord and getting the pull through cleaner stuck in the middle of the barrel. Ug what a bitch that would be to get out.

[Seeadler]

So a cord will abrade steel? I would be more worried about the steel abrading the cord and getting the pull through cleaner stuck in the middle of the barrel. Ug what a bitch that would be to get out.

Suit yourself, you cannot profess ignorance anymore.

[nolimits]

Fact is most guys clean for peace of mind, not because their rifle actually needs it. Even in the dustiest of conditions, a taped muzzle and closed bolt will keep your bore safe. That said, I use a fair bit of Rem-Oil cleaning up exterior parts and removing dirt and grime from the bolt, trigger, follower etc. Nothing a couple Q-tips and few patches won't take care of at base camp.

I understand the closed action and taped off muzzle, but how about the dust particles settling on top of the action. Once you start cycling the rounds, this could potentially find its way inside, couldn't it?

[375shooter]

If not pulled straight through, the cord will abrade the bore and crown. This has been known for a long time. There was even an inspection stamp "W" for this type of wear on a Lee Enfield.

I try to pull the cord straight, trying not to let it touch the bore. It seems to be working, so far. Have been doing this for 35 years and my rifles haven't got less accurate.

[375shooter]

No sweat. I'm that way with bolt maintenance and keeping the action and chamber spiffy. I used to be fussier with the bore, but never could see a benefit at the range, so opted to start letting the gun tell me when it needed to be cleaned.

I've been shooting my T3 in .338 a lot recently. Been getting great results from a clean bore. First shot always goes to the same POI as all the rest. Will try not cleaning for longer, to see if accuracy improves. Will be looking for POI shift, as well. I'll let you know what happens. Might take a while, though. After big game season ends, will be starting to work with my new (to me) 22-250 AI semi custom.

[RiverOtter]

Fact is most guys clean for peace of mind, not because their rifle actually needs it. Even in the dustiest of conditions, a taped muzzle and closed bolt will keep your bore safe. That said, I use a fair bit of Rem-Oil cleaning up exterior parts and removing dirt and grime from the bolt, trigger, follower etc. Nothing a couple Q-tips and few patches won't take care of at base camp.


I understand the closed action and taped off muzzle, but how about the dust particles settling on top of the action. Once you start cycling the rounds, this could potentially find its way inside, couldn't it?
I'm guessing probably.....:grin:

But let's keep things in perspective here. The very act of detonating a cartridge and blowing 2700'C flame, powder particles, primer debris, and a bullet down the bore at 3000'ish fps is going to have a "somewhat" negative impact on your throat and bore over time. Those dust particles you mentioned are going to be far more detrimental to your bolt lugs and chamber walls than your actual bore, which is why I wipe those parts with Rem-Oil as needed throughout the season.