HELP!! Broadheads hit 3" lower than field points

[russm86]

So, got some new arrows this summer and have been practicing with field points and last week I decided to test my broadheads to make sure everything is good to go for the bow season starting Thursday. Well my broadheads are consistently hitting 3" low every shot. So I google it and read a bunch of bow forums the majority of which suggested it was just a tuning adjustment as broadheads exaggerate tuning/alignment issues and the fix was to adjust either the rest up or the knock loop down, so easy enough. I adjusted the knock loop down and got the broadheads hitting almost right on and thought "GREAT!" but then I tried the field points and now they are hitting 3" high!!! **** I also notice now the arrows with broadheads are "wobbling" a bit and not as consistent and I didn't notice the wobble before but it may have been there and just didn't notice but I don't think I would be getting as good consistent shots/groups as I was before if they were wobbling?

My setup is a Bow Tech Assassin set to full draw weight, approx. 60lbs with a 3-point bristle rest throwing Victory V-Force V6 350 arrows and I use a release. Don't recall draw length off the top of my head but I'm confident the owner of Hardcore archery did them right as I took my bow in and had him cut them and everything. The field points are 150gr and I've been using the 150gr Dirt Nap DRT broad heads and I weighed them all to confirm weights and all within less than 1gr. With the field points/broadheads in the total arrow weight is 450gr (weighed on 2 reloading scales). So what the h*** is going on? Is it just my bow doesn't like the broadheads? Is something wrong with my setup or should I just try different heads? Only problem is the dirt naps are the only ones I could find in 150gr so I'd have to drop down to 125s or 100s but is a 400gr arrow adequate for deer/black bear/moose (though no moose for me this season)? Should I try a mechanical instead? Either way this sucks with only a couple days till season opener, lesson learned I guess, check broadheads well in advance even if field points are shooting great...

[kilometers]

I was under the impression your broad heads always fly a bit different then your field points. I think mine were an inch right and maybe low.
I just adjusted my bow when hunting season was close so my broadheads were spot on.

[tinhorse]

Yep my brodheads hit roughly 1" left and down at 20 yards, more so the further back you shoot compared to my practice points. Adjust your sight, takes about 20 seconds and done. Just make sure when they are hitting bullseye at 20 that they are hitting at 30, 40, 50.....etc. I e shot several different broadheads and they all seemed to fly slightly different but all were easy to zero in with a quick sight adjustment. And all shot dead on at all distances at ter the sight was adjusted for 20. Just make sure your broadheads and field points are the same weight

[afflicted 1]

Check cam timing, you may need half a twist in a cable.

[RugDoctor]

For the more experienced archery guys than me....the described "wobbling"....could this be from too much head weight, and not stiff enough arrow which could be corrected with spine adjustment? I'm guessing not if the field tips are the same weight?

[Mikey Rafiki]

How confident are you in the consistency of your arrows? Square nocks, square inserts, spin tested shafts. Anything out of tolerance in the arrows will be exaggerated by fixed blades as well.

Also, if those larger broadheads have more weight forward compared to field points it could cause an issue. You could also look at weighted inserts so you could use 100 grain heads but keep overall weight.

[Shooter Jr.]

With a properly tuned bow, and excellent form, broad heads, field points, and bare shafts should all (practically) have the same POI.
First things I would do, is verify bow tuning. Verify your draw length, draw weight, cam sync, brace height etc. If nothing has changed, and your bow specs are in tune, I would wager it being a form issue. Field points don't add much resistance and allow the vanes to do their job and correct arrow flight. broad heads on the other hand add lots of resistance. If your form isn't perfect its only going to add drag, and slow your arrow, thus lowering your POI.
If nothing else, measure your bows ATA (axle to axle), brace height, and draw weight, if those are all bang on, I'd say your bow is good to go.
If your still having the same problem after a bow tune, try shooting bare shafts (close, maybe 10-20 yards) and see how those group, and where. A bare shaft will make form imperfections painfully obvious.
Be warned!! Bare shafts are incredibly difficult to group good, but will reveal form...

[Shooter Jr.]

How confident are you in the consistency of your arrows? Square nocks, square inserts, spin tested shafts. Anything out of tolerance in the arrows will be exaggerated by fixed blades as well.

Also, if those larger broadheads have more weight forward compared to field points it could cause an issue. You could also look at weighted inserts so you could use 100 grain heads but keep overall weight.
150gr tip is a 150gr tip. A change in FOC could very well change POI, but going from 150gr FP to BH shouldn't cause much of a POI change.

[donny.brooke]

Papertune it and see what that tells you. Download the easton arrow tuning guide it has great info in there and should walk you thru the tuning process.

[BiG Boar]

Basically that broadhead is acting like a wing or spoiler on the front. If your bow isn't in perfect tune with the arrows spine it will shoot differently. The field point has no wing to add drag but the broad head does. Mechanicals could help for a quick fix.

[GetLethal]

If they are hitting consistently just readjust your sight to match where the broad heads are landing. Easy as that. If the broadheads are inconsistent from arrow to arrow some tuning will be required. Seeing as the season kicks off tomorrow id pick my 3 most consistent arrows and adjust my sights for their flight. Not a ton of time to retune your bow and arrows.

Mechanicals are another option but depending who you talk to there's a definite love/hate for them.

[russm86]

I had the older guy, pretty sure he's the owner, at Hardcore archery check over the bow and tuning and everything and measured the draw weight when I was getting the new arrows setup and he didn't find anything wrong, the only thing I've adjusted since then is increased the bow weight, so with increasing the bow weight should I have adjusted the cams or anything else when I screwed the limb bolts in more? I didn't see this mentioned in the manual anywhere so I just turned the limb bolts in 1.5 turns each which according to the manual should be about 4.5 lbs (was 56lbs when at Hardcore so should be right around the 60lb mark now) and didn't touch anything else but maybe the manual neglected to mention needing to adjust other things at the same time?

[russm86]

If they are hitting consistently just readjust your sight to match where the broad heads are landing. Easy as that. If the broadheads are inconsistent from arrow to arrow some tuning will be required. Seeing as the season kicks off tomorrow id pick my 3 most consistent arrows and adjust my sights for their flight. Not a ton of time to retune your bow and arrows.

Mechanicals are another option but depending who you talk to there's a definite love/hate for them.

Yea, I might try returning the knock loop to its original position and adjust the sights/pins instead and see how it groups with them and go from there. I'm wondering if lowering the knock made the tuning worse and is what is inducing the wobble, looking at the alignment of the knock loop with the rest, the knock loop is quite a bit lower.

[Eastbranch]

Just sight in with the broadheads. Don't make adjustments to anything but your sight. You can re sight for paper when the season is over. Trying to get broadheads to shoot where your field points do is like trying to find a sasquatch riding a unicorn. You hear about it, but you never see anyone prove it.

[GetLethal]

Yea, I might try returning the knock loop to its original position and adjust the sights/pins instead and see how it groups with them and go from there. I'm wondering if lowering the knock made the tuning worse and is what is inducing the wobble, looking at the alignment of the knock loop with the rest, the knock loop is quite a bit lower.

your loop should definitely be slightly above level, I would return everything to the way it was before you started playing with it and just adjust the sight. As others have said, tune after the season and get it dialed. For now just make sure you have consistent broadhead flight and sight for those. Hell even if you just have one arrow flying perfectly, thats all you need ;)

[steveo]

Personally I have never adjusted nocking points or the arrow rest after I am happy with arrow flight. If you are not happy with point of impact then adjust sights. For fixed blade broadheads, what you describe is fairly typical and what I usually do is sight in for broadheads and forget about poi for field points. At this stage of the game my bow is a hunting bow not a target bow and you can still target shoot just remember they will hit high. I have also gone from 125 grain field points to 100 grain broadheads to fix the difference in trajectory with success but sighting in with the broadheads you are going to use is really the way to go.

[donny.brooke]

Ignoring your issues and just sighting in for your broadheads can be a bad idea if your arrows are leaving the bow at an angle. Straight arrow flight is best for accuracy and arrow penetration on an animal. Some pretty poor advice on here from guys who are probably shooting poorly tuned bows. Quick clean kills are what your after so take the time to do it right. As stated before paper tune your bow to see whats going on. There could be a few things out of whack causing your issues. If your in Kelowna at some point PM me and i can have a look at your bow if you like and help you figure out whats going on.

[zogg54]

I shoot the same setup, same weight. Go see Dave at Backcountry Sports in Penticton and he will tune your bow properly and analyse your grip. After you leave your broadheads and your field tips will be hitting in the same spot.

[steveo]

Ignoring your issues and just sighting in for your broadheads can be a bad idea if your arrows are leaving the bow at an angle. Straight arrow flight is best for accuracy and arrow penetration on an animal. Some pretty poor advice on here from guys who are probably shooting poorly tuned bows. Quick clean kills are what your after so take the time to do it right. As stated before paper tune your bow to see whats going on. There could be a few things out of whack causing your issues. If your in Kelowna at some point PM me and i can have a look at your bow if you like and help you figure out whats going on.What would you suggest if he buys arrows that already come fletched, cut fletchings off or can you paper tune with fletchings on.

[donny.brooke]

I always paper tune with fletches on as thats how there used in the field but bare shafts work also. My buddy bare shafts when he paper tunes and it works for him. I think the OP may have an arrow spine issue if he has cranked his bow up since buying his arrows and 150 grain broadheads add alot of length to arrow overall compared to his field tips? Hard to diagnose this kind of thing over the internet!!! Can just throw out suggestions to him from our experiences.

[Stone Sheep Steve]

I had the older guy, pretty sure he's the owner, at Hardcore archery check over the bow and tuning and everything and measured the draw weight when I was getting the new arrows setup and he didn't find anything wrong, the only thing I've adjusted since then is increased the bow weight, so with increasing the bow weight should I have adjusted the cams or anything else when I screwed the limb bolts in more? I didn't see this mentioned in the manual anywhere so I just turned the limb bolts in 1.5 turns each which according to the manual should be about 4.5 lbs (was 56lbs when at Hardcore so should be right around the 60lb mark now) and didn't touch anything else but maybe the manual neglected to mention needing to adjust other things at the same time?

Make sure it was Ken(the owner without grey hair) and not Chuck that checked it over.

[russm86]

I always paper tune with fletches on as thats how there used in the field but bare shafts work also. My buddy bare shafts when he paper tunes and it works for him. I think the OP may have an arrow spine issue if he has cranked his bow up since buying his arrows and 150 grain broadheads add alot of length to arrow overall compared to his field tips? Hard to diagnose this kind of thing over the internet!!! Can just throw out suggestions to him from our experiences.

I believe I was at the low end of the range for those arrows, I believe they were rated 60 to 75 lbs, I'm only just 60 now with it maxed out. How much difference does broad head weight make? I just looked at the charts on the Victory Archery website and with 100gr or 125gr points I could likely have gotten away with 400 spine instead of the 350 so I don't think spine would be the problem?

[donny.brooke]

How long are your arrows from the valley of the nock to end of the carbon?

[donny.brooke]

Here is a list of things to look for:

Bow timing at brace
Cam synch at full draw
Arrow spine for lbs and tip weight
Arrow contacting something on the bow after release, fletches hitting something.
Nock to tight on serving
Nock being pinched by Dloop
Centre shot correct
Berger hole to arrow alignment
Draw length proper
Proper bow grip ( not holding it like your choking a chicken )
Proper form on release
String rubbing hard on your face at full draw