Honda Generator???????

[newfie bullet]

So I took the plunge and bought a Honda 3000is generator. So now for a question....For power to the tent for heaters,lights .....etc.....I'd like to use the 23.3amp three pronged locking outlet. What do I need? It seems you need and adapter first then obviously a cord of your choosing but which is best? How long of a cord is suitable? Gauge?......I also wonder if an adapter is needed then why didn't they just make the frigging machine with the adapted end in the first place? but I assume I'm missing something and thats understandable considering this is my first gen......So would appreciate any tips,suggestions especially from people who own this generator. I'll be mounting it in the bed of the truck and will run it with the exhaust extension to the outside. I have the remote installed so,the theory goes, shut it off at bed time....turn back on warm up tent then get out into warm tent.
any help is appreciated.

[sparkes3]

there is an adapter but I would get that type of male end and put it on your cord

[klondikemike]

They show pictures of different types of plug ends in Princess Auto catalogue. I don't know what quality they are nowadays but al least you'll know what amp volt you need.

[Ferenc]

Want do plan on powering up.... List everything and are they all going to be on at the same time ... Some people have micro waves.. Kurig coffee machines.. Boom box... Fridges... Freezers..some coolers.. Even seen expresso machines to big screen tvs.... Once you know what you plan to power up.. You can decide on the cord requirements.

As a general rule... First 100 feet.. Number 12 wire
after 100 feet to 200... Number 10 wire.. Then number 8 wire.

[newfie bullet]

Want do plan on powering up.... List everything and are they all going to be on at the same time ... Some people have micro waves.. Kurig coffee machines.. Boom box... Fridges... Freezers..some coolers.. Even seen expresso machines to big screen tvs.... Once you know what you plan to power up.. You can decide on the cord requirements.

As a general rule... First 100 feet.. Number 12 wire
after 100 feet to 200... Number 10 wire.. Then number 8 wire.

The light stuff will be lights and recharging batteries but for evening and morning some sort of ceramic heater(s). number 12 wire it would be then because I'd doubt I'd need more than 50 feet but I'd probably get two 50 foot so if I ever found myself in a situation where more distance was required I could just connect them......

[newfie bullet]

That makes sense instead of messing around with an adapter then a cord.

[Ferenc]

What ya want to get is some.... Cabtyre ... From the eletrical distributers.. Make up your own cords. : )

[knothead]

The twist lock outlet is for direct plug in for your camper or RV and is generally used for RV's with AC and a big draw. the other outlets that are on the unit are plenty for the other uses that you stated, the biggest draw is your tent heater and at 1000 watts you can run it with a 12 ga wire assuming not over 50' You can use the twist lock plug if you make your own cord those plugs are readily available at most hardware stores.

[RiverOtter]

Stupid question, but did you purchase a genny with main purpose being to heat your tent? I'm going to assume we're not talking about a wall tent?

[sparkes3]

we all know how easy it is to lose an adapter

[newfie bullet]

Stupid question, but did you purchase a genny with main purpose being to heat your tent? I'm going to assume we're not talking about a wall tent?
I actually bought the Gen because its better to have and not need verses need and not have. So I'll use it for what ever need arises but the wife don't enjoy the cold so a heater for our kodiak canvas tent seems like an easy solution(albeit pricey). I would prefer wood stove or even the diesel heaters but they have issues all their own. We do also have the Mr buddy Big buddy but we all know the condensation issues those bring. There is no stove jack on the Kodiak tents.

[newfie bullet]

What ya want to get is some.... Cabtyre ... From the eletrical distributers.. Make up your own cords. : )
This site never disappoints ......Thx

[newfie bullet]

The twist lock outlet is for direct plug in for your camper or RV and is generally used for RV's with AC and a big draw. the other outlets that are on the unit are plenty for the other uses that you stated, the biggest draw is your tent heater and at 1000 watts you can run it with a 12 ga wire assuming not over 50' You can use the twist lock plug if you make your own cord those plugs are readily available at most hardware stores.

I read that you get the most out of the Gen buy using that 23.3 amp 3 prong socket and I've seen the adapter used and on the other end it splits into a 3 socket(lighted) that you could at least plug 3 things into(aware not to overload).

[newfie bullet]

we all know how easy it is to lose an adapter

Lol....christ there's a good chance I'll lose the generator.

[newfie bullet]

So more fuel for this thread.......bringing electricity into the tent I obviously need a ground fault circuit interrupter on the outlet side of things. this is like opening a pandoras box!

[sparkes3]

it will get stolen if its not chained on and maybe even if it is.
the circuit protector is built in on mine

[VLD43]

So more fuel for this thread.......bringing electricity into the tent I obviously need a ground fault circuit interrupter on the outlet side of things. this is like opening a pandoras box!

As far as Cab tyre goes, it's no all the same. For your use, I would suggest Carol Cable SJOOW 12/3. You will need to get this from an electrical wholesale place. it is more expensive, but worth the money in my mind. We use this cable in Industrial applications, and it stands up well. As far as a GFCI receptacle goes, I would rethink that idea. GFCI's are what they call "People Protection" and are usually used in bathrooms or outside house receptacles. The problem you are more than likely going to run into at some point, is nuisance tripping. If you get a small amount of condensation or moisture in your camp gear, chances are you will loose power. The small amount of moisture I am talking of is of no concern to your safety. GFCI's are very sensitive

[newfie bullet]

it will get stolen if its not chained on and maybe even if it is.
the circuit protector is built in on mine
Agreed....been looking at the "lowpro lockdown" and decided Ill go to a fabricator and build a similar device with a better lock for probably a similar price and just have it bolted to the truck bed. Ive also been thinking once bolted to truck bed use a shitty cardboard box of some type and disguise it as a box of garbage?

[newfie bullet]

As far as Cab tyre goes, it's no all the same. For your use, I would suggest Carol Cable SJOOW 12/3. You will need to get this from an electrical wholesale place. it is more expensive, but worth the money in my mind. We use this cable in Industrial applications, and it stands up well. As far as a GFCI receptacle goes, I would rethink that idea. GFCI's are what they call "People Protection" and are usually used in bathrooms or outside house receptacles. The problem you are more than likely going to run into at some point, is nuisance tripping. If you get a small amount of condensation or moisture in your camp gear, chances are you will loose power. The small amount of moisture I am talking of is of no concern to your safety. GFCI's are very sensitive
You I owe a beer or two! Thanks.

[VLD43]

You I owe a beer or two! Thanks.

Good luck. Hope you stay warm and dry

[VLD43]

[QUOTE=newfie bullet;1779982]You I owe a beer or two! Thanks.[/QUOT

[Ferenc]

Newfie bullet.... Don't forget the remote start... It's a must have. : )
Ahhhh.... I see you have done that already ..awesome !!

[newfie bullet]

Newfie bullet.... Don't forget the remote start... It's a must have. : )
Ahhhh.... I see you have done that already ..awesome !!
That I did and it is sweet.

[klondikemike]

I always wondered how one of those heating pads would work in a camping situation. Like the ones under one of those water beds. If you have the generator going anyways.

[Ubertuber]

I always wondered how one of those heating pads would work in a camping situation. Like the ones under one of those water beds. If you have the generator going anyways.
Maybe try an electric blanket. You'd be toasty warm. So much so, it would be difficult to get out of bed.

[newfie bullet]

You know I'm sure the wife would be willing to test it out and I'll let you guys know. I've also wondered if you have a big steel covered tub with a pressure release valve that vented moisture out side and basically heated an amount of water with some sort of element would it radiate enough heat in the tent to notice?.......I'm talking good Canadian winter temps!

[Drillbit]

You know I'm sure the wife would be willing to test it out and I'll let you guys know. I've also wondered if you have a big steel covered tub with a pressure release valve that vented moisture out side and basically heated an amount of water with some sort of element would it radiate enough heat in the tent to notice?.......I'm talking good Canadian winter temps!

So...an electric boiler with a radiator inside the tent.

Good idea. I'm no expert but would like to hear if a 3000w would generate enough btu's. Would probably have to run 24h/day to pull that off?

[RiverOtter]

You know I'm sure the wife would be willing to test it out and I'll let you guys know. I've also wondered if you have a big steel covered tub with a pressure release valve that vented moisture out side and basically heated an amount of water with some sort of element would it radiate enough heat in the tent to notice?.......I'm talking good Canadian winter temps!
To me it seems like a lot of effort and expense just to avoid a wood stove. I know you said your tent didn't have a stove jack, but they can be purchased and installed yourself.

Could you post a picture of your tent, or a link to one? Maybe I'm missing something here.

[newfie bullet]

To me it seems like a lot of effort and expense just to avoid a wood stove. I know you said your tent didn't have a stove jack, but they can be purchased and installed yourself.

Could you post a picture of your tent, or a link to one? Maybe I'm missing something here.

I will post a pic, we are heading up to Nahatlatch Sat to do a dry run with tent,spend the day and head back home.........as for the boiler idea........have always been curious as to what would be the most efficient consistent way to heat a tent. I absolutely love a wood stove but we all know the issues with every heat source.

[RiverOtter]

Ya, trade in your genny on a chainsaw....:grin:

Only way to know is trial and error. Be nice to rent before you buy, to see what a boiler will do.

[RiverOtter]

Unless you have some decent wood to take with you or are confident there is standing dry where you're going, it can be a bit of a crap shoot with a stove for sure.

[klondikemike]

I've often thought about a small boiler (wood fired water heater) that one might set up outside the tent or camper. Using copper lines in the floor or some type of flexible lines on the floor of the tent to circulate the glycol. The size of the genset would be way smaller to be able to handle the circulation and fan on rad type thing. Maybe a battery could keep up to it as well. Wouldn't be much different that the circulating heaters used to start diesel engines in the cold. Like wabasto.

[newfie bullet]

I've often thought about a small boiler (wood fired water heater) that one might set up outside the tent or camper. Using copper lines in the floor or some type of flexible lines on the floor of the tent to circulate the glycol. The size of the genset would be way smaller to be able to handle the circulation and fan on rad type thing. Maybe a battery could keep up to it as well. Wouldn't be much different that the circulating heaters used to start diesel engines in the cold. Like wabasto.

In Germany we stayed with a family that had a wood fired hot water boiler that was next to the tub and to take a bath you'd open the bottom and start a small wood fire and i was surprised at how fast it produced hot enough water to bath in with a small amount of wood.

[klondikemike]

I also thought the time and effort to make one up might be offset by the fact that it might come in handy if the power goes out in the winter. A small genset and a 5 gallon pail of gas with one of these would keep you warm and the pipes from freezing. Or anykind of emergency.

[newfie bullet]

I also thought the time and effort to make one up might be offset by the fact that it might come in handy if the power goes out in the winter. A small genset and a 5 gallon pail of gas with one of these would keep you warm and the pipes from freezing. Or anykind of emergency.
I always liked.....better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.

[Downwindtracker2]

A tin airtight will burn almost anything. You just may have to split it smaller, chuckle. I never found lack of wood to be a problem, but you will need a chainsaw and a splitting maul to feed it.

When we were camping in Namibia , a couple of the campsites heated the water in what they called a donkey boiler. It took a surprisingly small fire for a hot shower.

We had a 1000watt Kipor, but it died. So we bought a 2400watt Yami,. It's just big enough to run the air-con in the travel trailer.

[wideopenthrottle]

we always arrive a day early to set up camp including getting wood for the stove. if it is not completely dry (as in being wet not being green) it gets piled inside the tent to dry before burning. As I almost never hunt above the treeline, available wood has never been a problem where I hunt (the bush)....

[The Hermit]

Consider a LONG extension cord so you can put the genny a good distance away from camp... I hate the noise!

[Hunterguy]

I you decide to sell the three thousand weighting in at 100 plus and want to downsize to 2000 I will buy they're thousan pm if you make that decision.

[RaymondT]

Agreed....been looking at the "lowpro lockdown" and decided Ill go to a fabricator and build a similar device with a better lock for probably a similar price and just have it bolted to the truck bed. Ive also been thinking once bolted to truck bed use a shitty cardboard box of some type and disguise it as a box of garbage?

If the handle opening is larger enough, you can pick up a length of grade 70 hardened chain and a decent $50 industrial padlock. Some stores carry it in bulk and can cut whatever length you need. You can also pick up a cheap bicycle inner tube and cut it open and sleeve the chain to protect the generator housing from abrasions. Another thing that works well is woven hydraulic burst sleeves if you can find it in the appropriate size.

I used this on my Honda to lock it to a tree;

http://www.masterlock.com/personal-use/product/8413DPF

[Stresd]

Nowadays locks like that are useless with modern portable battery powered tools. Take me less than 10 sec to zip through that lock or most locks or chains for that matter with a battery powered 4.5' grinder with a zip disc (cuttoff disc) in it. Along the lines of this cheaply available very portable model that I keep at home for cutting metal. Grade 70 chain or hardened lock is nothing to a good zip disc. Mastercraft 20V Max Li-Ion 4-1/2" Angle Grinder.
When away from camp and if in an area where I need to worry about it walking away, I lock my eu3000is up in my cargo trailer. The locks could stilll be zipped off in a few secs but at least it is out of sight and not so tempting. I use 120v grinders with Zip discs all the time at my shop for cutting hardened steel. The battery powered units are just as fast. Interesting thread on grinder zip discs and how to try and stop them.

http://www.lockpicking101.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=57999

[newfie bullet]

[QUOTE=Stresd;1789959]Nowadays locks like that are useless with modern portable battery powered tools. Take me less than 10 sec to zip through that lock or most locks or chains for that matter with a battery powered 4.5' grinder with a zip disc (cuttoff disc) in it. Along the lines of this cheaply available very portable model that I keep at home for cutting metal. Grade 70 chain or hardened lock is nothing to a good zip disc. Mastercraft 20V Max Li-Ion 4-1/2" Angle Grinder.
When away from camp and if in an area where I need to worry about it walking away, I lock my eu3000is up in my cargo trailer. The locks could stilll be zipped off in a few secs but at least it is out of sight and not so tempting. I use 120v grinders with Zip discs all the time at my shop for cutting hardened steel. The battery powered units are just as fast. Interesting thread on grinder zip discs and how to try and stop them.

http://www.lockpicking101.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=57999[/QUOTe

Sadly if degenerates have enough time and space they will get your stuff. I just want them to have to work dam hard for it and be lucky that I don't catch them.