Compound Hunting Bow Guidance

[loki]

Hello,

Ok, let me say that I am not asking "what brand name?" and do not care to hear any. My limits to brand names are what can be provided within an hours drive, otherwise I am not brand sticky on bows. I'll spill the beans here to make it easier to help my questions, I've decided on the Bowtech Commander.

When looking at bows draw weights and I see a stat like 50-60-70 does that mean that the bow is adjustable between 50 - 70 pounds, or do I have to specify my desired draw weight when purchasing in 50, 60, or 70 lbs peak draw?

I'm obviously looking at the "no bow press" design, is there any other reason to put a compound in a bow press besides than to replace the string and cables, or adjust draw weight?

I see the IBO speed rating always listed, is there any way to see the AMO speed testing? I understand the company lists the higher average speed rating, but where do I find the general speed testing ratings that show both IBO and AMO?

What is the average lifespan, or horror stories, of a release? I'm looking at a D-Loop (still don't care about brand names, nor hearing them) and don't like things that aren't failsafe. A release system to me, has a lifespan, and I would like to know how long that is, do they break, does the nylon strap tare? On the subject how often does the loop break causing misfire or dryfire (guessing the loop passes inspection before shot of course) due to the clamping device? I like shooting with finger release, but hear of the advantages of D-loops like longer string life, etc. So I'm weighing out the D-loop.

[Bigbear]

Most Bows Rate their draw weights in 10lb incements, eg: 40-50, 50-60, 60-70. so to get your specfic draw weight you have to find out what your able to pull and go from there. Be carefull not to over bow yourself and end up with a shoulder injury. A lot of Bow Hunters have a 60-70 lb bow, and shoot at 65 or 67 lbs.Some prefure a lighter weight and opt for a 50-60 lb Bow. Once That is all done that will decide what shafts and Broadhead design, of which there is Many, you might want to use. every body has their own opinion on which is the best. eventualy you will find out what works best for you.

The Draw weight can be Ajusted by turning the Limb bolts in (increase) or out(decrease). Some of the Bow Manufactureres have ajustable Draw lenghts on the cams , and some are specific draw lenghts. Yoou will next have to find out what your Draw lenght is. Spread your Arms right out and hve some one measure finger tip to finger tip then divide by 2.5.
Eg: 70 in divided by 2.5 = 28 in Draw lenght.. Im not sure but Bow tec's are draw lenght specific. You do not need a bow press to ajust Draw weight.

IBO speed is measured with a Arrow that weighs 350 gr shot from a bow that is set at 70lbs with a 30 in Draw lengh. Amo is some what the same except a 540gr arrow is used. Your dealer should be able to give you an aprox on the AMO on the bow you decide on. Just remember the heaver the arrow the slower the AMO. The lighter the Arrow the AMO is Faster but going to light you end up sacrificing kenetic Energy. you have to decide on a happy medium. There again there is a lot of different opinions which is the best.

As for Releases , you get what you pay for. A good reputable brand will last a good while, I have had mine for about 5 years now,another I have had for 7 it is still in good condition. Just like any thing else they have to be looked after. Shooting off the string really cuts down on the string life:frown:. I dont recomend it. D Loops work very very well. Its simple if your loop looks a little frayed replace it. Or buy a metal one and not have to worry about it. If fingers work good for you why change, that way you wont have to worry about forgetting your release( which i Have, Thats why i have 2. )or a loop breaking, or maybe a release malfunction.:eek:

I Hope I helped some. There is other fellas on here that will also have some good advice, and there will be a lot a varying opinons:). I think the biggest ting is to have fun at what your doing and Trying to accomplish. If it Hurts and Makes you upset then ??. Have Fun:biggrin:
Kelly

[Bow Walker]

Bigbear has hit the nail on the noggin. His comments pretty much say it all.

One thing that I can add (from doing a lot of reading/research) is that, if you want to shoot at say 60 lbs draw weight it is better to get a bow with a range of 50 - 60 lbs and max it out than it is to get a bow with a 60 - 70 lbs range and shoot at the lower setting(s).

p.s.
I've shot my same release for at least 6 years now. It still performs as new. Just remember that they are a piece of equipment and they need maintenance the same as your bow does.

[pupper]

why not bowtech gaurdian?

the commander is the gaurdians little sister

[loki]

the commander is the gaurdians little sister
Not by much for IBO and kinetic energy ratings, and it still has the center pivot and no bow press features. In fact the longer axle to axle adds stability to the shot, so by tape measure purposes it's the guardian that's the little sibling. :lol:

I prefer to shoot finger release and need the longer axle to axle. Currently I shoot a 38" A2A and only notice finger pinch when I improperly place my fingers too close (or over) to the nocking point. So I didn't think a 37 1/4" A2A would make much difference. A 33" A2A would most likely be impossible to shoot without finer pain.

Thanks for the help guys.

I should add that I currently own a Browning Nomad XL compound (nearly an antique) that I picked up at the last rod and gun show. It's basically my training bow, and draws from 40 - 60 lbs (currently worked my way up to 50 lbs). This is what I'm using to practise form and gain the muscles required for archery, so I hope to be able to handle 60 lbs consistently when the Commander arrives :).

As for my current release, it's a gun handle trigger release, and I do not like it. I spent my first few days firing with it and noticed it consistently shot high and to the left (when I'm consistently hitting bullseye with finger release). I found the release brought the string about an inch away from my anchor point to the right, which then caused the string travel to whip to the left upon release. Of course I could set my sight to fix this, but it didn't seem consistent to me (like what if I press hard into my cheek and remove some of the distance away from anchor, it would then shoot to the right of the new sight position). Is this a problem with loop releases? I wouldn't think so because from what I see it rests pretty well on the cheek.

[Bigbear]

I have a 2005 Hoyt Protec 46in a-a, 27 to 29.5 Drl , 60 to 70 LB if yor interested.:):wink:

[greybark]

:) Hey Bigbear , may I point out that you are correct in the IBO Standard = 350gr , 70lb bow and 30in draw . However the AMO Standard is as you stated 540gr at a 30in draw but is with a 60lb bow . Hence the difference in claimed speeds . Cheers

REMEMBER -- Keep Your Fingertab On --