Sight Advice

[pupper]

right now i shoot with a G-5 LE 5 pins sight and it is set up for field points. I love the sight but it is expensive so I dont know if I should buy another one for hunting. Let me know what you would do...

[Bow Walker]

What broadheads are you going to use? I don't see why you have to either re-adjust or buy another sight. I use the same sight for both 3D and hunting.

I shoot Razorcaps, Slick Tricks, or American Broadheads...all of which are easily tunable.

The broadheads nowadays all usually fly right with your field points - so one sight is perfect.

[J_T]

If you are a hunter, my opinion is you should shoot 3D with your hunting gear. Throw away 3 of 4 pins. Use one and use good judgement. Sorry, don't mean to cast my opinion to far, just that I see some guys shoot 3D with a very different setup than for hunting, and not all of them practise with their hunting set up which might cause grief later. IMHO

[swamper]

I use my same sight, Cobra Sidewinder, for both 3-d and hunting. All it takes is a bit of minor adjustment, not always necessary, and you are ready to go. I use G-5 Montecs and they seem to fly pretty much the same as my field points.
My setup is an AR34, set at 64#, Cavelier Drop-away, Pick-a-peep, and a True Fire release. I use Goldtip 5575's with 100 gr. tips, or broadheads, and the bow is doing 263 fsp.
And as Pupper knows, I can usually put the arrow where I want it to go.

[pupper]

yah exactly, I want my hunting set up to be the same as 3d but when i screw on the montecs, my arrows shoot a little bit lower even though i use 100gr field points and 100 grain broadheads. most people have told me as well that they shoot broadheads out of there bow a little different. as for razor caps I had nothing but trouble with them, could not get them to fly striaght.

So if i am shooting a little different w. broadheads does it make sense to get another site I can swap with instead of fiddling with pins week to week.

[swamper]

The easiest way is to use a sight box that has marked increments. Then all you have to do is change from one known setup to the other.

[pupper]

Yah i was just thinking about that. I have those incriment marks on my site and I could just mark where the site box should be for feild tips and where it should be for broadheads. That would only work if all the pins need to be lowered equally which I think is the case.

here is the link to what my site looks like if any wants to see:

http://g5outdoors.com/#sec_optixle

[bochunk2000]

I used to adjust for Braod heads or field point depending on the time of year. When I was sighted in for Broad heads I would compensate on 3D for any difference. I have found now with my new set up I have both shooting the same and find no need to switch back and forth.
Steve.

[interceptor]

You should be able to tune your setup so that both field points and broad heads have the same point of impact. It can be a real pain in the a$$ to get right but it is well worth the effort.

You need to start with both arrow setups as similar as you can make them ie: same weight, spine, same weight field tip and broad head etc.

At your first pin distance say, 20 mtrs try and shoot as good a group as you can with three field tip arrows (use a fresh target with out holes), now remove your 3 arrows.

After a brief rest (you need to be shooting at your best so take your time) shoot three broad head arrows at the exact same spot on the target.

Now you should have 2 distinct points of impact, lets say that the field tips landed dead on the spot and the BH arrows grouped 50mm low and 50mm to the right.

This is where it gets interesting. you need to make very small adjustments to your rest, the idea is to steer the BH arrows towards the point of impact of the Field Points. To do this you would raise the rest, only by a couple of millimetres (this takes care of the height) now also move the rest to the left, only a millimetre or 2.

Now do the same 3 shot groups, don't woory about where the two groups are in relation to the spot on the target as you rectify this by adjusting the sights when you are finished. Now you should have your BH and FP groups closer together, sometimes it comes good in one go other times you have to play around for quite a while. The end result is very impressive as you will find that you will get excellent arrow flight and you will also get excellent groups with your broadheads.

I will go through my info when I get home in the morning and try and post some pics of the way this works.

It sounds complicated but if you take your time and think about each step before you do it you will find that it is not too bad.

Let me know how you go.

Cheers Noel

[Bow Walker]

yah exactly, I want my hunting set up to be the same as 3d but when i screw on the montecs, my arrows shoot a little bit lower even though i use 100gr field points and 100 grain broadheads. most people have told me as well that they shoot broadheads out of there bow a little different. as for razor caps I had nothing but trouble with them, could not get them to fly striaght.

So if i am shooting a little different w. broadheads does it make sense to get another site I can swap with instead of fiddling with pins week to week.
Do you guys spin test your points? Both broadhead and field? It makes a heckova difference.

There are quite a few things that impact arrow flight - I'm only talking about the arrow here.

Are your shafts cut square on both ends? Do your inserts sit flush? Are the insert ends square?

If everything is not inline how can the arrow fly straight and true? Finally, spin test each arrow so that there is no wobble at all.

I do this and my broadheads and field tips are flying the same. I don't mean in the same hole - I mean they fly straight enough to hit within a 5 inch circle at 40 yards........the rest is up to the shooter.

[pupper]

Do you guys spin test your points? Both broadhead and field? It makes a heckova difference.

There are quite a few things that impact arrow flight - I'm only talking about the arrow here.

Are your shafts cut square on both ends? Do your inserts sit flush? Are the insert ends square?

If everything is not inline how can the arrow fly straight and true? Finally, spin test each arrow so that there is no wobble at all.

I do this and my broadheads and field tips are flying the same. I don't mean in the same hole - I mean they fly straight enough to hit within a 5 inch circle at 40 yards........the rest is up to the shooter.

yes, I spend alot of time making the arrows spin correctly, I fletch the shafts so the broadheads are in line with the veins after the shafts are fitted with the right broadhead so that arrrow spins properly. The inserts sit flush and both ends of the arrow are cut flush.

with razor caps I could not get the wobble out of any of my arrows. I even switched the ferrels around and no combination would offer a wobble free spin. At 20 yds they shot decent but at 40 the arrows were doing huge circles. I then put montecs on and the arrows spun and shot perfect.

eastmens bowhunting journal just did a report on a number of different broadheads and montec g-5's were tied for the top choice in terms of strength, flight, penetraion. They said even though razor caps claim to be 100 gr, they actually wiegh 108 gr. i thought they were heavier than they said. Saying that razor caps did rate quite well. they have 1 1/4" cutting diameter which i like. I just wish i could get them to fly straight. maybe it was a bad batch i tried but in the end, why mess with what works for me?


check out the article it was in the march-april edition of 2007 in eastmans bowhunting journal page 79-81.

maybe we should move this into a broadhead thread??

[pupper]

You should be able to tune your setup so that both field points and broad heads have the same point of impact. It can be a real pain in the a$$ to get right but it is well worth the effort.

You need to start with both arrow setups as similar as you can make them ie: same weight, spine, same weight field tip and broad head etc.

At your first pin distance say, 20 mtrs try and shoot as good a group as you can with three field tip arrows (use a fresh target with out holes), now remove your 3 arrows.

After a brief rest (you need to be shooting at your best so take your time) shoot three broad head arrows at the exact same spot on the target.

Now you should have 2 distinct points of impact, lets say that the field tips landed dead on the spot and the BH arrows grouped 50mm low and 50mm to the right.

This is where it gets interesting. you need to make very small adjustments to your rest, the idea is to steer the BH arrows towards the point of impact of the Field Points. To do this you would raise the rest, only by a couple of millimetres (this takes care of the height) now also move the rest to the left, only a millimetre or 2.

Now do the same 3 shot groups, don't woory about where the two groups are in relation to the spot on the target as you rectify this by adjusting the sights when you are finished. Now you should have your BH and FP groups closer together, sometimes it comes good in one go other times you have to play around for quite a while. The end result is very impressive as you will find that you will get excellent arrow flight and you will also get excellent groups with your broadheads.

I will go through my info when I get home in the morning and try and post some pics of the way this works.

It sounds complicated but if you take your time and think about each step before you do it you will find that it is not too bad.

Let me know how you go.

Cheers Noel

great info noel, does this technique work when using a whiscur biscuit?

It sounds like if you moved your rest it would effect the field tip flight to though??/

Justin

[interceptor]

G' Day Justin,

As far as the WB goes,,,,,,,,,,,,, I have never used one but I can't see why it would be a problem.

Yeah mate, the flight of both sets of arrows will be affected. The trick is that they will eventually end up hitting the same spot on the target. When this happens you simply adjust your sights for this common point of impact and you are done.

Cheers Noel

This is my usual five arrow group from 60 yards using broad heads, outdoors in a crappy cross wind, I reckon the first four arrows are in side 75mm and that black square is probably 70mm across


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v487/interceptor429/60yrdgroups007.jpg

[pupper]

hey noel, do you have to do this for each yardage increment example:20,30,40,50,60. or once you find the common point of impact its just a matter of adjusting your sight?

cheers mate

Justin

[interceptor]

You should be pretty well spot on with all your pins but I would double check to be sure. The is nothing worse than a little doubt sneaking into your mind when you are drawing down on that big trophy.

Cheers Noel

[Bow Walker]

with razor caps I could not get the wobble out of any of my arrows. I even switched the ferrels around and no combination would offer a wobble free spin. At 20 yds they shot decent but at 40 the arrows were doing huge circles. I then put montecs on and the arrows spun and shot perfect.
As far as the Razorcaps go............they were bought out and taken over by N.A.P. last year so the quality went up considerably. you possibly did get a crappy batch - on the other hand, I could've lucked out??

To make b/h tuning easier I'd suggest one of the low profile heads like American Broadhead's Sonic or Liberty line. Slick Tricks are good as well. But - if your Montec's are flying for you, don't switch.

[pupper]

Well good news for me anyways,

I was shooting at the range today and I shot field tips and broadheads at 20,30,40,50,60 yds and the broadheads are hitting the same exact spot as field tips so I am happy:)

[Bow Walker]

Did you do as Noel suggested?

[pupper]

I was all set to but it was not neccassary. It was shooting perfect with no tuning.

[interceptor]

Gotta love that Pupper 8-) 8-)

Cheers Noel