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one-shot-wonder
08-28-2014, 10:06 PM
I am in the process of a do it yourself flat deck trailer project when time avails. I plan to pull an ATV or my 12' tin boat.
Here are the specs:

Former tent trailer, salvaged frame and axle. Frame dimensions are 10' x 6'4"

Had a good friend weld additional 2" angle iron reinforcing brackets. Also welded 4 links on each side of the outer frame for fastening tie downs. I have removed all rust and original white paint and hit it with flat black tremclad rust paint.

Next steps are to place 3/4" plywood decking and wire lights and signals. My plywood is sanded and I fear after painting will be quite slippery, I have picked up a sand grit to mix into the second coat to help with traction. Will post pics once the decking is on.

I also plan to install a box on the tongue to store the spare tire and a jerry can, supplies.

Any recommendations, oversights?

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/One-Shot-Wonder/IMG_20140826_152750_zps32e922c0.jpg (http://s31.photobucket.com/user/One-Shot-Wonder/media/IMG_20140826_152750_zps32e922c0.jpg.html)

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/One-Shot-Wonder/IMG_20140826_152805_zps062c5a9a.jpg (http://s31.photobucket.com/user/One-Shot-Wonder/media/IMG_20140826_152805_zps062c5a9a.jpg.html)

Brambles
08-28-2014, 10:28 PM
Pressure treated plywood would last a LOT longer.
stake pockets would allow you to enclose the trailer as needed.
somewhere built in to store your ATV ramps

one-shot-wonder
08-28-2014, 10:34 PM
I agree with the pressure treated. Looking for 5-10 yrs out of the trailer and expect to replace wood if keep any longer. Didn't have much choice on the plywood, bought through carpenter buddies account. Good one side would have been enough but ended up with double sided sanded.

Plan to put sides on it one day to make it a firewood/ yard waste hauler

Need to be a fireman to have the time to do it right!!!

000buck
08-28-2014, 10:54 PM
Have you looked into the new rules governing u builts. Not so easy to register anymore. I have a tent trailer that was given to me that I cannot register with out a receipt for the axel

wrenchhead
08-28-2014, 11:07 PM
Wire first before sheeting, and also do you figure you enough clearance between your wheels and deck when loaded?

Sofa King
08-28-2014, 11:09 PM
Pressure treated plywood would last a LOT longer.
stake pockets would allow you to enclose the trailer as needed.
somewhere built in to store your ATV ramps

all great tips.
I wish I'da used pressure treated.

Sofa King
08-28-2014, 11:16 PM
you'll be fine with regular wood.
mine's lasted probably 20 yrs I'm guessing.
I just changed the frontal sections out last year and will probably try to do the rear pieces this winter.
and I was using mine for a boat trailer with my zodiac for a few years, that's what probably sped up some of the woods demise.
I was putting the whole trailer in the lake to unload the boat.

one tip, when it's sitting, keep an end higher than the other to allow water to shed.
I know I always kept mine level, but just recently, now that the wood's at the repair stage, I've noticed the water after heavy rains sitting.
no biggie at first I'm sure, but makes a difference once the wood's gotten on in years.

markomoose
08-29-2014, 01:03 AM
It'll work fine!I prefer walls on my trailers .By the time you drive down that muddy FSR Everything is covered in mud.

Brambles
08-29-2014, 04:56 AM
I agree with the pressure treated. Looking for 5-10 yrs out of the trailer and expect to replace wood if keep any longer. Didn't have much choice on the plywood, bought through carpenter buddies account. Good one side would have been enough but ended up with double sided sanded.

Plan to put sides on it one day to make it a firewood/ yard waste hauler

Need to be a fireman to have the time to do it right!!!

not to be a fear monger but G1S And G2S plywood is normally interior plywood and therefore they use interior glues, not the same weather resistant glues as they use in exterior sheathing and PWF. When it gets wet the glue will dissolve and it will delaminate. Confirm with the supplier if your G2S is rated for exterior!

M.Dean
08-29-2014, 05:30 AM
Looks good, depending on what your going to be hauling with it, I think I'd go with a bit bigger tire size? A trailer that big loaded with firewood will weigh quite a bit, and I very likely doubt those tires will handle that much weight.

Steeleco
08-29-2014, 05:41 AM
Looks much better than most recycled tent trailer abortions. I'm with M.Dean do what you can to increase the tire size, it will help carry heavier loads and the larger dia will better help the wheel bearings from overheating when it is loaded down.

Also if you can lay in a piece of flat plate in the boxes above the tires, it will help protect the wood from debris and water that extra little bit. No matter what wood you do end up using that area will get wetter that the rest.

randymac
08-29-2014, 05:49 AM
I did exactly same thing a few years ago. I would recommend that before you put the deck down that you lay the plywood on it and put your quad on it and have someone jump on it and check the clearance between the top of the tire and the deck. On mine I had to cut openings in the deck and box in wheel wells above. It had those small tires as well.

one-shot-wonder
08-29-2014, 06:54 AM
Have you looked into the new rules governing u builts. Not so easy to register anymore. I have a tent trailer that was given to me that I cannot register with out a receipt for the axel

I still have my plate from when it was registered as a tent trailer. If that is the case I will just try and renew my insurance as is....

Squamch
08-29-2014, 06:56 AM
Bigger tires, and I'd have put the tires outboard, rather than under the deck. I think sheathing ply would have been better than g2s for the better laminate glue, and COST!
And the new ubuilt regs suck. Just get your friends Dave Smith and Bob Brown to make up some receipts for all the materials you bought from them (at a vastly discounted rate!) to build it.

Squamch
08-29-2014, 06:57 AM
I still have my plate from when it was registered as a tent trailer. If that is the case I will just try and renew my insurance as is....


CVSE will not be amused.

BearStump
08-29-2014, 06:57 AM
Wire first before sheeting, and also do you figure you enough clearance between your wheels and deck when loaded?
yup, what he said. Those are the two issues I had while building my own flat deck a couple years ago.

pnbrock
08-29-2014, 07:01 AM
nevermind tires what is axle rating?i would weld pockets to accept 2x4 to add removable sides .no plywood deck inmho

BearStump
08-29-2014, 07:03 AM
Have you looked into the new rules governing u builts. Not so easy to register anymore. I have a tent trailer that was given to me that I cannot register with out a receipt for the axel

Hey 000buck, just went through it with my trailer. You can insure your trailer. rules state that any 'U built' trailer can be registyered up to 1400 kg and must provide reciepts for materials used. If reciepts are not available then a 'declaration of ownership' must be signed and notarized. pick up the form from your insurance broker, sign it get it notarized for 30 bucks and you're good to go.
I had to read up on it and educate my insurance broker as to the proper procedure, as it is apparently not a well known rule. and it has only been in place since 2012. This new rule is supposed to cut down on utility trailer thefts.??

Vladimir Poutine
08-29-2014, 07:56 AM
Have you looked into the new rules governing u builts. Not so easy to register anymore. I have a tent trailer that was given to me that I cannot register with out a receipt for the axel

X2 The new regulations almost make it either impossible or costly to register a new trailer with the u built designation. Check those new regs before you get a nasty surprise.

Stone Sheep Steve
08-29-2014, 08:00 AM
Just make sure it's wide enough to haul the Vitara....with tracks on it!! :-D

SSS

guest
08-29-2014, 08:14 AM
3500 lb axle, bigger tires, hubs and bearings ........ just a matter of time before you over load it with 2 quads and a moose or two. Always have a spare with you too.

CT

Papa Sasquatch
08-29-2014, 08:17 AM
There isn't a town without a truck and trailer repair shop. Get it inspected and certified by a professional with CVSE certification. Otherwise any incident you may have may be blame on you solely because of a flaw that may have had nothing to do with the fact of the incident.
* Your axle witd is all wrong compare to your deck. especially if you put sides and high loads. You will likely have a roll over trailer.
*The trailer RGVW : registered Gross Vehicle weight must be respected especially the Axle rating. The fact that you have a larger trailer then before means it's structure weights more and therefore you can carry less cargo on this axle. If in doubt go spend money on a certified new trailer with the specs you need.

BearStump
08-29-2014, 08:38 AM
inspection IS required on u bilt trailers registered over 1400 kgs. But not on smaller trailers that will be registered under 1400.

LYKTOHUNT
08-29-2014, 09:07 AM
Paint both sides and all edges of plywood well before laying down Domestic made GIS ply is layed up with exterior glue, however off shore or South American ply may not have ext glue

Mikey Rafiki
08-29-2014, 09:08 AM
Hey 000buck, just went through it with my trailer. You can insure your trailer. rules state that any 'U built' trailer can be registyered up to 1400 kg and must provide reciepts for materials used. If reciepts are not available then a 'declaration of ownership' must be signed and notarized. pick up the form from your insurance broker, sign it get it notarized for 30 bucks and you're good to go.
I had to read up on it and educate my insurance broker as to the proper procedure, as it is apparently not a well known rule. and it has only been in place since 2012. This new rule is supposed to cut down on utility trailer thefts.??

This is exactly what I just did with a u-built I bought. I was able to get mine notarized for free at the local Service BC office.

one-shot-wonder
08-29-2014, 09:21 AM
Before we head any deeper down the "upsize" rabbit hole. This trailer is primarily to haul my 100 lb Jon boat when I have the camper loaded. The odd time I might haul my ATV. I will not be using this trailer to go on a northern hunt or to haul moose, etc.

Thanks to those who have submitted recommendations.

bighornbob
08-29-2014, 09:51 AM
Before we head any deeper down the "upsize" rabbit hole. This trailer is primarily to haul my 100 lb Jon boat when I have the camper loaded. The odd time I might haul my ATV. I will not be using this trailer to go on a northern hunt or to haul moose, etc.

Thanks to those who have submitted recommendations.

Make sure you have ramps so you can load Brent's tracker after it breaks down, if you go hunting together:):)

Might want to go bigger. Once the kids start hitting the ground you will have a couple of kids quads on there too:)

BHB

randymac
08-29-2014, 11:37 AM
I would think you should be able to renew it and just change the body stile from tent trailer to flat deck. I did my cargo trailer last year and changed the body style to "snowmobile trailer" and got the small utility plate instead of the large commercial plate i had previously



CVSE will not be amused.

one-shot-wonder
08-29-2014, 07:12 PM
Was originally going to use carriage bolts for hardware to fasten the deck. Have decided to go with metal self tapping screws. I will drill pilot holes in the frame and screw through the wood. Anybody have any experience with this? Am I cutting corners going with screws as apposed to bigger hardware?

Brambles
08-29-2014, 08:02 PM
Screws have NO shear strength!!!

416
08-29-2014, 08:06 PM
Was originally going to use carriage bolts for hardware to fasten the deck. Have decided to go with metal self tapping screws. I will drill pilot holes in the frame and screw through the wood. Anybody have any experience with this? Am I cutting corners going with screws as apposed to bigger hardware?

My experience has been that self taping are a one shot deal that hold well enough but are very unforgiving if you want changes later.....not that carriage bolts fare much better in the long run as they all seem to seize up.

Salty
08-29-2014, 08:16 PM
Another way to go about it is to lag bolt treated two by fours to the frame then screw your ply to the two by fours. Predrill the holes and it would last quite a while for the use you describe. Use lumber lock or other construction adhesive under the ply and it would last longer but be a beeeotch to ever redo the ply.

dmace
08-29-2014, 08:48 PM
Screws have NO shear strength!!!
You don't need to worry about shear in a horizontal application . So screws will work fine for hold down . These screws will not be removable after a few years when a lag or carriage bolt may be removable. The big issue with screws here is vibration , you want a large diameter head so your screws don't pull through your ply . Odds are your ply will wear out before you need to change your screws .
Wish I had a large diameter head :-D
dean

killman
08-29-2014, 08:59 PM
Lumber trailers use 1/4-5/16 deck screws I'm sure your little trailer will be fine.....

one-shot-wonder
08-29-2014, 09:01 PM
Just my thoughts Dmace.....I forecast the wood needing replacement before the fasteners. When that time comes, wood can be ripped off and screws can be easily cut off or (hopefully) unscrewed :confused:.

I highly doubt I will own the trailer this long but it doesn't hurt to contemplate these things.

Thanks guys!

Mikey Rafiki
08-29-2014, 09:03 PM
Some good sized washers would help with that. I would still go with bolts if you are making something to last and may need to be re-decked.

randymac
08-30-2014, 06:21 AM
I used self tapping screws, worked fine. I did put a number of eyebolts down each side thru the plywood and the frame for tiedowns.

Was originally going to use carriage bolts for hardware to fasten the deck. Have decided to go with metal self tapping screws. I will drill pilot holes in the frame and screw through the wood. Anybody have any experience with this? Am I cutting corners going with screws as apposed to bigger hardware?

goatdancer
08-30-2014, 09:31 AM
You don't need to worry about shear in a horizontal application . So screws will work fine for hold down . These screws will not be removable after a few years when a lag or carriage bolt may be removable. The big issue with screws here is vibration , you want a large diameter head so your screws don't pull through your ply . Odds are your ply will wear out before you need to change your screws .
Wish I had a large diameter head :-D
dean

BC Fasteners has those type of screws. Best price around as well.

REMINGTON JIM
08-30-2014, 09:35 AM
Was originally going to use carriage bolts for hardware to fasten the deck. Have decided to go with metal self tapping screws. I will drill pilot holes in the frame and screw through the wood. Anybody have any experience with this? Am I cutting corners going with screws as apposed to bigger hardware?

No Screws - Plated Carriage bolts and washers 5/16 " with Ny Lok nuts ! RJ