Broad heads hitting high

[Friday_30-06]

So I am kind of stumped on this one, hopefully some of you more experienced archers can help me out.

I have my 100 grain field points dialed in all the way to 90 yards, if I set my pin to 90 I can hit dead on. I set it for 40 it hits dead on at 40. The problem is when I switch over to broad heads. Today I swapped over and at 25 yards I hit 3" high, thinking it was me I let another broad head fly and again 3" high. I swapped right back to field point and I was bang on. Why would this be?

Some specs, I'm shooting a 2009 Elite GT500 at 60 lb draw, 28" Gold Tip Expedition Hunter 3555 arrows. I haven't weighed them but I believe I calculated them to come in right around 360 grains. I am using 100 grain G5 Montecs on arrows that I fletched so the fletchings would line up exactly with the blades.

It seems like the broad heads would be lighter and that's why they would be flying high but I use the same arrow and go from 100 grain field points right to the montecs. I'm really stumped and am thinking of switching broad heads to see if that helps but before I drop some cash I thought I would check with the expert panel here.

One other thing to note is the left to right is the same from field point to broad head, no problem there.

[Onesock]

Try raising ur string nock a very little bit.

[Chopper333]

Operator error....

[NorBC]

Just make sure you're 20 yards from the animal!

[Ambush]

You didn't mention what rest you are using. But if it is adjustable then lower your rest about 1/16" and then shoot some field point/ broad head groups. This will cause your arrows to impact lower but will have more affect on your broad heads because of their "steering' ability. If not close enough then another 1/16" lower. It may take a few attempts to bring them together and you will have to gang adjust your sight or re-mark if you are using a slider.

[Foxtail]

Have you spin tested the broad heads? But honestly, if you are 3" high at 40 yards that is almost bang on. If you were 8" high and left, or right, I would be worried.

[ian745]

could be the type of broad head?.. fixed or open on impact style?..i had the same thing, up slightly when switched to broadheads, switched to fixed version broadhead and boom, dead on.

[Friday_30-06]

You didn't mention what rest you are using. But if it is adjustable then lowier your rest about 1/16" and then shoot some field point/ broad head groups. This will cause your arrows to impact lower but will have more affect on your broad heads because of their "steering' ability. If not close enough then another 1/16" lower. It may take a few attempts to bring them together and you will have to gang adjust your sight or re-mark if you are using a slider.

Thanks for all the great advise other than you chopper, operator error is impossible, kidding of course.
My rest is adjustable, it's a rip cord red drop away, I will try lowering this weekend and report back.
I have spun test my arrows and they seem pretty good, close enough that at 25 yards I wouldn't expect that much difference.

Ian745 I'm shooting fixed blade G5 Montecs

Foxtail I'm out 3 inches at 25 yard not 40 otherwise I would be less concerned as well.

[NorBC]

They make a practice broad head the same as those, just dull. I had the same issue. Bought that, used it to sight in and practice, and was good to go. Use cheap foam blocks though, they destroy them.

[Shooter]

Ambush is correct just make sure that your rest isn't hitting your shelf at the shot after you lower it. Also on that bow have you checked your cam sync and timing? More than likely a nock/rest height issue tho.

[Ambush]

The Code Red is my favourite rest. Consider yourself lucky that you only have to contend with up and down. You must be well tuned otherwise.

Good luck and patience.

[Riverbc]

Broadhead tuning......a good read. http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1606741

[Hillbros_96]

More then likely they are just going to shoot higher and re-adjust your sights. As soon as you add blades up front all bets are off and are not likely to hit the same spot, especially the faster the arrows are travelling. I use mechanicals for that reason and speed is an issue for me with normal broad heads.

Definitely weigh them and you might find that your field points or broad heads may not be the weight you thought they were.

How fast are the arrows?

[steveo]

Not sure why broadheads are hitting higher than target points because with my experiences a fixed broadhead will drag and hit lower than field points. If you are shooting consistent groups, getting good arrow flight and not getting any left or right plaining from your broadheads I would be doing back flips. Sounds like you are tuned in pretty good if you are only hitting high at one range. I would be tempted to adjust my sight pins which are concerned and leave it at that for a bit and see if any thing else developes.

[Shooter]

A fixed blade broadhead acts much like extra fletching on the front of your arrow steering it much more than field points do. So if your arrow leaves your bow with the broadhead left and nock right then it takes a lot more time for the fletchings to correct the arrow flight than if it was just a field point on it and you would in turn show broadheads hitting left of field points. Same can be said if you are hitting high or low with broad heads. If your arrow is leaving slightly nock low it will show with your broadheads hitting high. By moving your rest down slightly you are actually moving your nock point up as well.

The other thing with that bow is that it is a binary cam system and the 2 cams are slaved together. If you don't have the cams timed properly then you can actually rotate 1 cam slightly more than the other cam which actually can move your nock point slightly causing nock high or low tears.

[steveo]

Good point Shooter, if the arrows are nock low on release they might not recover in time when they hit at 25 yards but can correct at longer ranges. I guess paper tuning might be in order. I would think if the arrow was nock low and showing 3 inches high at 25 yards you would see bad arrow flight but maybe not with a faster bow.

[Walksalot]

To have broad heads shoot the same as field points can be frustrating indeed. If the broad heads fly straight and group well then move your sights accordingly.

[OOBuck]

90 yards? Really?

I can't imagine shooting anything out to 90 yards. Try aiming lower! LOL!!

First off you need a 20 yard pin set that first and work up from there, to a maximum of 60 yards please!!!! Broadheads HAVE to be "tuned"

I did find with the montec that I gain elevation with them as well, I switched to Grim Reaper 100 grains and it the first broad head I can honestly say
you screw them on and your ready to rock!

[Riverbc]

90 yards? Really?

Broadheads HAVE to be "tuned"

!

Exactly, broadheads need to be tuned. Just because your field points hit where you want, doesn't mean your broadheads will. Broadheads will magnify any issues, be it the rest, arrow spine, arrow wobble, or shooter's form. Paper tune, then broad head tune. Mechanicals are a quick fix, and many go that route. If you want to shoot fixed broadheads, you may have to broadhead tune. Two out of my three bows, shot slick tricks with my field points, right after being tuned by my local archery shop. The third bow had to be broadhead tuned. Please read the link in post #12. A good read, with pictures, showing how easy it is to broadhead tune.

[Walksalot]

A good test to see if your broad heads are tuned well is to start at 10 yards and slowly move back while using the 10 yard pin. As you move back, if the broad heads are tuned right, the arrows should fall in a straight line below your target. If there is much wander to the right or left then more tuning is required.

[Friday_30-06]

Thanks for all the great suggestions guys. I think a couple things I should have been more clear on, one is the broadheads progressively hit higher as I get further from the target, it's not just at 25 yards. Also my sight is a single pin slide adjustable unit so I would rather try my best to match my field point flight to my broadheads mainly so when I set it to say 40 yards I hit dead on at 40 yards, in previous years I've just compensated for the difference which works but is just not the ideal situation.
I zipped my arrows through some paper and that checked out, I will try adjusting my rest this weekend and see where I sit.
Shooter your suggestion makes good sense of how the fixed blades act like extra fletchings and recover from improper nock height quicker and thus adjusting my rest should dial me in........... I hope.

I will report back soon.

[Friday_30-06]

90 yards? Really?

I can't imagine shooting anything out to 90 yards. Try aiming lower! LOL!!

First off you need a 20 yard pin set that first and work up from there, to a maximum of 60 yards please!!!! Broadheads HAVE to be "tuned"

I did find with the montec that I gain elevation with them as well, I switched to Grim Reaper 100 grains and it the first broad head I can honestly say
you screw them on and your ready to rock!

I only practice out to 90 yards so when I need to shoot out to 40 or 50 then it will feel like a chip shot. I would never shoot at an animal from that range.

[Hillbros_96]

I only practice out to 90 yards so when I need to shoot out to 40 or 50 then it will feel like a chip shot. I would never shoot at an animal from that range.

I practice that far as well, but once I get past 60 yards I switch from targets to ballons and I can pretty consistently hit 9/10 balloons at 90 yards. The 60 yrs shot is then really easy.

I would still suggest weighting everything. I thought I had 100gr field points once and when I ended up weighting them, they turned out to be 125gr.

If you have enough Kinetic energy, I would suggest mechanical broad heads. The same with speed, a single pin setup is not ideal if your arrow speed is below 300fps as the gap is to large and it increases your chance of missing due to yardage errors. I am able to keep my pin at 30yrds and I can hold centre of the chest from 15yrds to 42 yards if I find myself in a position that I cannot move my sight.

[guntech]

It's been a long time since I was into archery... but..

The difference in weight has not been established yet (not that I read anyway) and the fact that some broad heads can shoot differently than others.

There is no substitute for sighting in with what you are going to use.

[donny.brooke]

Broadheads are usually longer than field points causing your arrows to be a bit weaker in spine causing them to leave the bow in a different manner if the bow isn't in perfect tune.

[danfloris]

For the most part putting a broadhead on is like adding tiny wings. It is going to plane a very minimal amount and may cause the arrows to hit a little higher. 40 years is my go to range whenever I change anything 20 is to close but 40 seems to be the distance that errors will show. I just don't worry about it. At this time of year I set my bow to my broad heads and practice with field points. As long as your grouping them the. You know your still dead on.

I habe the the identical issue u have with my broadheads hitting 3 inches high at 40-50. Not a big deal. Just move your entire sight window up a hair and take some shot and called good. Don't stress

[Sofa King]

It's been a long time since I was into archery... but..

The difference in weight has not been established yet (not that I read anyway) and the fact that some broad heads can shoot differently than others.

There is no substitute for sighting in with what you are going to use.

this.
I know it isn't what most do.
but really, it's the proper way to be accurate.
field tips should really just be for farting around shooting arrows at targets to keep your form in tune, etc.
I wouldn't want to be counting on a manufacturer's claim that "these broadheads should just like field-points" when a trophy buck is appearing.
it's kinda crazy NOT to be sighting in with the exact broadheads you'll be using in the field.
forget about what it's doing with field-points, sight it in with your hunting heads.

would you sight your gun in with cartridges that you don't plan on using?

[Nolan1973]

To tune a bow for Broadheads, you adjust your rest. If your Broadheads hit high, drop the rest. Get your field tips and Broadheads hitting hole for hole, then adjust your sight back for zero.