A Year and a half on The Charlottes

[treehugger]

This might be unconventional but here goes...
I've never officially introduced myself... I've had my CORE for the last 15 years or so. In that time I've shot a few deer, gone on a youth cow elk draw to Christina Lake and that about sums things up... until 2 years ago this past Christmas.


I'm on post 100 and something and I haven't even told a joke...
Two guys are out hunting and one keels over dead. Panicking, the other calls 911.
-911 Operator, how can I help?
-My hunting partner just fell over dead! What do I do?
-Ok sir, stay calm. The first thing you need to do is make sure he's dead.
*BOOM* Ok, now what?


The Move:
I'd hit a wall at work, my wife had hit a wall with parenting so we decided to shake things up and switch roles. My wife's a nurse, originally from the Charlottes, we've both spent a lot of time up there over the years and figured, what the hell... you only live once! This would be a great chance to get back to nature and 'rough it'... move out of the city and try rural living.
We packed all (well, most) of our worldly possessions into our camper and car, had a teary goodbye with my family and headed north for Port Hardy. My wife and daughter took the lead and I limped along behind in a totally overloaded camper. All in all the trip to Hardy was uneventful and the Inside Passage was beautiful forced relaxation. It was late January 2012.
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard239_zps5234ed77.jpg
Beautiful BC somewhere between Hardy and Rupert
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/movetocharlottes122_zpsbe614c72.jpg
"Packed" Ferry
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/movetocharlottes123_zps6475ae53.jpg
We arrived... in Rupert
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard257_zps31c455a7.jpg
Dawn arrival looking back over the Hecate from Miller Creek (Chikundl.. or whatever)

[seatoskymiles]

So far so good, hope this thread is as god as the knife build one. Keep it up

[treehugger]

The Land:

We were pretty lucky having family up north and with Heather's old connections we were homeless (couch surfing) for about a week. By February first we were moved into our new place. We went from a 3300 square foot lot in the city to 15 acres in sunny Tlell.
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard356_zpsa211c4f4.jpg
The mansion
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/movetocharlottes153_zpsef5b6e4b.jpg
The view out the kitchen window (across the road)


We went from a typical place in town... High speed internet, mail delivery, traffic, people, reliable power... to a wood heat only, propane appliance cabin in the woods. It wasn't exactly a challenge but it was an adjustment. I loved it! It was an excuse to roll up the sleeves and get some dirt under the nails. Firewooding became a huge pass time... and gave me an excuse to buy a new toy...
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/movetocharlottes170_zps0727ee04.jpg
Stihl 066
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/movetocharlottes171_zps5cbc018e.jpg
Getting started... A greenhouse'll speed up the curing process if you have a are one on your property!
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/movetocharlottes181_zpsafee531f.jpg
My father inlaw is a retired bridge builder up there so we spent a lot of time cruising his old haunts looking for wood.

[treehugger]

I'll be hard pressed to match greybarks thread! That was a great read...

[treehugger]

More from the land:
We arrived in the dead of Winter and firewood was a priority. It didn't take many trips before my gun was riding shotgun and I had a pocket full of $10 deer tags... more on that later.
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard538_zps19f7eb3d.jpg
Falling a standing-dead pine. These things were solid gold... ready to burn
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard542_zpse7983801.jpg
My folks had come up for a visit and dad even took a turn bucking
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard354_zps27f4215b.jpg
Starting to fill up now. I ended up pulling the last rick out and restacking it perpendicular to rest... that greenhouse held 7 cords of wood

[greybark]

I'll be hard pressed to match greybarks thread! That was a great read...

Hey treehugger , that pic of your son with the ear muffs on and helping his Dad already matched any thread on here .
Cheers .

[albravo2]

i'm looking forward to this... great thread so far. sounds like a great adventure.

[eric]

Awesome..thanks for sharing, eagerly awaiting more

[treehugger]

Hey treehugger , that pic of your son with the ear muffs on and helping his Dad already matched any thread on here .
Cheers .
Thanks greybarks. I appreciate that, honestly. That's actually my daughter... I know I know, blue outfit and all. She was a real mucker inner! My father inlaw is in the background running the saw. Thanks for the interest so far. I'll try to keep the picture to word ratio good!

[srupp]

Far more couragous than me...looking forward to the upcoming events.

Cheers and Welcome

Steven

[coach]

Awesome start, Treehugger! I'm looking forward to following this one!

[Buck]

This is good now i have to track down Greybarks thread

[treehugger]

Thanks for tuning in buck... it's well worth the read.
http://www.huntingbc.ca/forum/showthread.php?104302-The-Gift-!!!!!!

And coach! It's guys like you that are keeping this place so interesting during the off season

[835]

Man alive tree hugger keep this damned thing going!

It must have been nice for the Wife to be back with her family... what a great way to get back to it. You have family in both places, that makes it do able.
I bet watching the weather from the window was interesting at times! lol

What did you do for work?

[Spy]

Im so freaking jealous, you lucky bugger. Look forward to hearing more, great thread so far. :-)

[treehugger]

More of the land:
There was so much to do on the Charlottes. Most days were an adventure. It was really good to have friends and family come up and visit. It gave us an opportunity to do some of the 'touristy' things on island.
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard373_zps60f5405a.jpg
Meeting an HDX on the way out to the giant spruce
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard379_zps698d85f1.jpg
We took my old beater as the road in was pretty over grown. I walked out front brushing while the family followed.
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard386_zps805c8fb3.jpg
The GIANT Spruce. This old monarch is covered in fungus and apparently reaching the end of its natural life.... it's huge!


Of course we had to make a pilgrimage out to the Golden Spruce... not the motel. It's a neat walk in off the Juskatla Mainline through a stand of old-growth spruce and cedar. There were some monsters in there too... nothing like the giant spruce but impressive all the same. Just to be clear, I'm not actually a treehuggin hippy... it's just pretty awe-inspiring soaking in a silent stand of old growth timber.
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard528_zpsf963748b.jpg
Old growth spruce
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard536_zpsa44d73b8.jpg
What's left of the golden spruce thrust out from the opposite bank of the Yakoon
...Just a side note, 'The Golden Spruce' by John Vaillant is a great read... it has some great old-timey photos of west coast logging and a pretty interesting history of northwest coast.

[treehugger]

Spy and 835. Thanks for the support. We are pretty lucky alright! I don't know if I could live there full time with the kids (I know, plural now) being the age that they're at. Not that it isn't great for kids up there! We dream of building a cabin on the inlaws property and splitting our time though in the future. It's a beautiful place up there...

[albravo2]

you're giving away the ending! i thought you're still up there.

gorgeous country. just one more place in this province to visit.

hell, now I'm dreaming of building a cabin on your inlaw's property!

[treehugger]

Still more of the land:

http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard468_zps3496dada.jpg
Mother Nature reclaiming her fallen trees

My folks came up pretty much the best time of year , mid September to mid October. You have the weather, the fish, deer any season and the mushrooms. The rest of the province had a pretty tough mushroom season but the Charlottes had a boomer!
I had picked chanterelles on Quadra as a kid but that was a long time ago. Mushrooms can be dangerous if you don't know what your doing... I found out about a local spot, some tips on identifying and we were off. The trip out I was still nervous... until we got there... Chanterelles are so easy to ID, even a child can do it!
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/5c74bff1-460a-40fd-84b8-f92161b1270a_zpsf73e7ca7.jpg?t=1393605351
My daughter in the patch
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dunnoabunch012_zps9a568d1b.jpg
We loaded up. Unlike other spots I've been since, some, lots of mushrooms were left in the ground that weren't quite big enough... they were everywhere!

[835]

what a story
i googled golden spruce and got a hit about it..... It would be interesting to hear the whole story.
it says it was cut down in protest to logging,,,

[treehugger]

you're giving away the ending! i thought you're still up there.

gorgeous country. just one more place in this province to visit.

hell, now I'm dreaming of building a cabin on your inlaw's property!

haha... there's space! Come on up!

[treehugger]

what a story
i googled golden spruce and got a hit about it..... It would be interesting to hear the whole story.
it says it was cut down in protest to logging,,,

it's a really great book. It must be second hand at Russell Books by now. Without giving it away, it is about a misguided individual cutting down the golden spruce.... But the lore surrounding him accompanied by a brief history on the west coast PLUS the photos makes it awesome!
Another good one is Never Fly Over An Eagle's Nest by Joe Garner. That ones about a pioneering family who settled on Saltspring back at the turn of the century. There's even a scandalous love affair with Emily Carr! Lol, how's that for Canadiana!?

[Fella]

. There's even a scandalous love affair with Emily Carr! Lol, how's that for Canadiana!?

She wasn't called "Sweet Ankles Emily" for no reason!

[luckofthedraw]

Nice read. Really like the old forest pics.

[Piperdown]

Great thread another good book by Joe Garner is Never Chop your Rope

[kennyj]

Great thread! Keep up the good work.
kenny

[treehugger]

Thanks, I'll check that out piperdown... I figured he covered his whole life in Never Fly Over an Eagle's Nest but if there's more...

Yew woodin':
Mother Nature wasn't the only one to claim a few trees. My dad's a pretty avid woodworker and was in the market for some yew wood. Yew is protected but it is felled occasionally... especially if the engineers put a road over one.
I'd spent quite a bit of time exploring with the chainsaws... and the rifle... and by this point I knew what a yew tree looked like. Yew has no, well not here, marketable value so it's often discarded and left in the cut block. If you get in soon enough, before the sun checks the wood, you can load up... well, in theory.
I took my folks out past Juskatla in an area with a few fresh cut blocks. The block wasn't even done, it was shut down for the day, so I threw on my caulks and trekked out on the fresh cut... no sign. It wasn't til I was back on the road that we noticed the line of yew trees along the road... not only past the ditch but in it. The yew was even used for road base.
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard483_zps58f42e11.jpg
Yew beyond the ditch
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard480_zpse5f951cf.jpg
More yew. These show some pretty typical underbrush. When something went in there it was gone! (The yew trees are the standing trees with the moss on them)
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard491_zps83158dae.jpg
We selected a few chunks
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard493_zps66e7796e.jpg
Loaded in the truck... I know I know, it's a bit spindly but our appetite was whetted and we knew what to look for. On a later adventure my father in law and I found a pile of fresh blow-down yew that put this lot to shame.... no photos though. You'll note a new (to me) saw in this pic... I was in chainsaw heaven!

[treehugger]

http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard494_zpscb7b8eb5.jpg
The view of Masset Inlet on the drive back
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard444_zps69ebce00.jpg
A yellow cedar burl from a bucker-grader friend

[treehugger]

Chickens:
Fully embracing rural living we got into poultry. I love chickens! Garbage in eggs out! I've never had a flock of my own however. My daughter and I got to work repairing the coop on the property and we ordered a dozen layers and about ten meat birds. I was determened to have friendly layers (I couldn't really get into the meat birds) so I set about early socializing them. I hand fed them and handled them right from chicks. Before I knew it, I had a very, maybe overly friendly flock of ladies constantly under foot and waiting for me at the door.
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/charlottesjan-may2012042_zps6e521b95.jpg
Some local chicks
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/006_zpsc315f106.jpg
Layer
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard516_zpsd85687c3.jpg
Friendly chickens sharing a tub of scraps with the dogs. The dog was really good with the chickens. One was feeding right between his legs!


With chickens came the inevitable pests. We got a cat to keep the rats and mice down. I've never really been a cat person but this one had a purpose... she might not have looked like much to start but she turned into a real killer. She would catch dragon flies right out of the air and when my folks looked after her she took care of their vermin problem and their songbird problem too! When we moved back to the city she ran away for two weeks and when all hope was gone she turned up trying to sneak into the pub a block away.... a survivor!
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dalynanderinvisit025_zps390b5905.jpg
We we're also harassed from a above. I came home to carnage one afternoon so I set out a live trap. Later it yielded this....
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/fixingtruckhawksandeggs059_zps45cd3840.jpg
A Northern Goshawk. I called the co and they informed me I had to release immediately. I verbally abused it, set it free and reset the trap... only to catch the frickin' thing again. This time I drove north, past a few homesteads (with healthier flocks than mine!) and set it free... he didn't return. When I spoke to some locals they went, 'Oh yeah. They're nervy... stare you right in the eye til you shoot em'. Fortunately I didn't have to...

[treehugger]

She wasn't called "Sweet Ankles Emily" for no reason!

Hahaha:mrgreen: Sweet ankles, child bearing hips and a supple wrist! What else could a man ask?

[ElectricDyck]

Nice pics, I hunted deer there for a few days one year, seemed like a quiet place to get back to basics, keep up the entertainment!

[pronghorn]

Keep it going, tree hugger your living a dream as it is beautiful over there, a great place to raise a family congrats. Look forward to more.

[ydouask]

Enjoying your post Treehugger. Your mention of author John Vaillant and his book The Golden Spruce reminded me of another of JV"s books entitled The Tiger... a very interesting read of predator/prey relations and some examples of a spiritual sense that will really make you question the whole notion of " communication " between species. Written about 2010 I think.

[SingleShot]

Thanks for sharing your story and pictures. You and your wife are brave to make that move and it sounds like you made the most of it. Most of all you have given your children such a great gift: a chance to be close to the land and animals. They will carry that gift for ever.

Your story is a good read and appreciated.

[Bear Chaser]

Great thread so far. Thanks for sharing this adventure.

[gerrygoat]

Really neat thread, looking forward to the rest of it. I love going over there, it is a wonderful place to be, I worked the better part of a year in Sandspit. Hope to do a deer hunt in July again this year.

[markomoose]

Very cool Treehugger!!Always wanted to do a Queen C trip.Great thread ! Your an inspiration to many of us "REGULAR FOLK" Speaking of books another good read is "GRIZZLIES & WHITE GUYS"

[Hillbros_96]

Keep it coming this is getting exciting to read.

[avadad]

what a story
i googled golden spruce and got a hit about it..... It would be interesting to hear the whole story.
it says it was cut down in protest to logging,,,
You won't regret reading that book. I loved it

[treehugger]

Wow thanks for all the comments! It's been fun going through the photos and putting together a story... also, keep the book recommendations coming!
-never fly over an eagles nest, joe garner
-never chop your rope, jgarner
-the golden spruce, john vaillant
-tiger, jvaillant
-grizzlies and whit guys

[treehugger]

What did you do for work?


I missed this earlier. Ha, I did what most charlotters do... collected ei! This was one of the big reasons for moving back. Most, not all, of the locals do seasonal work, treeplanting, silviculture, fishing guide. If you live up there you make it work sort of thing. The logging industry up there is a tough one to make money at these days so that was out. I have a fair amount of carpentry and construction experience but the scene would be tough to break into up there. I have a commercial pilot's license but no float experience... that was out. We came back to get the career thing back on track, ugh.



Keep it going, tree hugger your living a dream as it is beautiful over there, a great place to raise a family congrats. Look forward to more.

You're right! We were living the dream and loving it! But, the kids were the other reason for heading back. There aren't a ton of youngsters in Tlell and the Island is missing a few amenities... swimming pool, skating rink, curling rink and all those other pleasures in life. I know I know she received her education in other areas which were just as valuable but we're keeping the outdoor stuff up wherever we live. I'll need some hunting partners in a few years ;) , hunting partners who can swim and skate :D . That being said there still are a lot of benefits to raising kids up there.... aaaah, balance

[treehugger]

Back to it... I almost missed this one

Before long I was getting about 10 eggs for my 12 birds... production obviously dropped off when the flock decreased in size but we still got more eggs than we knew what to do with. Fortunately my sister inlaw owns the store with a cafe attached.
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/Merino009_zps5f55b05e.jpg
One of these things is not like the other...

[treehugger]

Beach Combing and the Sea:


Being so close to the beach we spent a lot of time on it. The Hecate is pretty gnarly and can blow up in no time then blow for days. On the nice days we would walk the dog and search for agates and other detritus. Post Japan earthquake all kinds of junk found it's way across the Pacific, around Rose Spit and onto East Beach. There was even a Harley in a shipping container found! We mostly saw floats, not glass ones, that looked nice in the garden and hung on the fence none the less. Also a ton of plastic crap... walk a mile on East Beach and you'd never drink bottled water again!
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard273_zps6527d470.jpg
Looking south in Tlell
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard275_zps292c16f7.jpg
The Prize (right in the middle of the frame)! Dad remarked how crazy it was to walk miles on a pristine beach with your head down looking for agates
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/agates001_zpscd1ef47f.jpg
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/agates002_zps2acdebcc.jpg
Agate hunting turned into an addiction. My goal was to fill our coffee table with them... after over a year... success!

[treehugger]

They're pretty neat. Most are white and peach but some are layered, others are pink and some are even black. Most are the size of your thumb nail but some come bigger...
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/agates001_zps03740c67.jpg
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/agates002_zps729893d3.jpg

[treehugger]

With the right tides, and the right truck ;), you can actually drive from Tlell to Masset the long way round. You start by crossing the Tlell and working your way up past the Pesuta to Cape Ball. There are a few more rivers then your up around Rose Spit and on your way to Tow Hill on North Beach. For obvious reasons it's worth going in convoy as it's quite common to get stuck... then the tide comes in and you're left with a long walk home and an embarrassing call to ICBC. The whole trip is about 80km and has claimed a decent number of vehicles... one guy did it twice in 2 vehicles less than 5 yrs old... or so I'm told.
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard361_zpsf940e6d1.jpg
The Tlell River crossing by the old Bear Lodge. I did this twice in my truck to hit better fishing grounds... it was pretty dicey. When it's really high the trick is to hit it in 4x4, fast and in reverse. Your "bow wake" lifts the light back-end and the weight is kept on your front wheels.
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/Copyoferins108_zps64b7c129.jpg
The Pesuta. We never drove here (but walked several times)... it's about a 10km walk round trip and it's on the way out to Cape Ball.
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/qci2010250_zpsac4a3b2e.jpg
There's a neat trail up the backside of Tow Hill. It's been boarded and there are a few lookouts on the way. This is looking Northeast towards Rose Spit... look at all that Razor Clam country!

[gerrygoat]

My nephews love looking for agates, looks like you have a good collection.

[pescado]

Nice way to spend some quality time treehugger. Thanks for taking the time to share it with us.

[jeff341]

Hey Treehugger,

great thread. thanks. My girl lived in Masset for a few years as a kid and remembers it well. Places like that don't leave your memory easy.

[knockturnal]

Great post! Hopefully you were able to get out and sample some of the awesome ocean fishing around there.

Grizzlies and white guys is by Clayton Mack. Neat book to read. I've met a few of the Mack family in my trips to Bella Coola. My uncle did a lot of the sketches in the book.

[treehugger]

Thanks for your interest gerrygoat... Hopefully you will get out in June. Do you normally hunt Moresby? We didn't spend that much time in Sandspit. It's been hit hardest since forestry has been dialled back. I've spent some time there in Gray Bay, fishing for trout and pinks on the copper (really fun) but not much exploring... I did see the most bears there though in the short time I spent.

jeff341... Hopefully she'll take you back for a visit! North Beach and Tow Hill are great spots. You get the right tide and wind up there and apparently sea scallops wash up. A lot of folks stake crab traps to the beach at low tide baited with razor clams and load up... also octopus hunting or just walk the tidal pools at low tide with a dip net for dungies... lots to do!

Knockturnal... Grizzlies and White Guys is for sure on the list now. I've only been to Bella Coola once to catch a ferry.... speaking of memorable, that drive west from Williams Lake! Neat spot in the province out there!

[finngun]

[QUOTE=treehugger;1469914]Back to it... I almost missed this one

Before long I was getting about 10 eggs for my 12 birds... production obviously dropped off when the flock decreased in size but we still got more eggs than we knew what to do with. Fortunately my sister inlaw owns the store with a cafe attached.
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/Merino009_zps5f55b05e.jpg
One of these things is not like the other...

i feel sorry about the hen ,,who was laying monster egg like one in pict:mrgreen: must be heeck of noisy for a while... very nice story-pict..from q-i thanx f-g

[gerrygoat]

Treehugger, I have hunted Moresby many times but in recent years have hunted on Graham more, both can be very good of course. Either way all of the QCI is beautiful and I enjoy it everytime I go over there. The year we worked over there we went fishing halibut on the one day we had off a week, we ate a lot of fish every week to go along with deer lol.

[treehugger]

Treehugger, I have hunted Moresby many times but in recent years have hunted on Graham more, both can be very good of course. Either way all of the QCI is beautiful and I enjoy it everytime I go over there. The year we worked over there we went fishing halibut on the one day we had off a week, we ate a lot of fish every week to go along with deer lol.
It can be a tough life! Halibut is still on the to do list but we were sure gifted a lot while we lived there.

[treehugger]

Seafood:
We did drive out on North Beach from the Masset end a few times. We were mostly looking for razor clams and beach combing. This is the truck in the background enroute to Rose Spit.
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard297_zpsc8f39a3b.jpg
Razor clamming is a great fun and extremely gratifying. The Haida Gwaii way is to rip down the beach above the surf at low tide then walk back along your tire tracks. Where you see a dimple form there's a clam under. Carefully position yourself Oceanside, not stepping too close to the dimple and with your trenching shovel take three good, fast, deep digs then on your knees and hand in the hole. Two things you need to know about razor clams, they're the cheetah of the mollusc world and they're called razor clams for a reason! Holding your fingers together in a point you sort of CAREFULLY wiggle them into the sand towards the dimple side of the hole. Pretty soon you'll come into contact with an edge of the clam as it's rocketing towards the centre of the earth, pinch it then gently rock it back and forth and it'll come free and slide out in your hand. I'm sure there are better ways but this was my rookie harvesting technique.
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard315_zps2aa1437a.jpg
'Come quick! Razor clams!'
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard321_zps340f4f74.jpg
The dig
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard322_zps6a81f12f.jpg
The reach
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard323_zps16221932.jpg
The extraction

[treehugger]

Like harvesting anything the fun begins when you get home!!
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard320_zpsf4d8db0e.jpg
Unfortunately I broke this one. It only doubles the work when you get home...
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dalynanderinvisit029_zps6d353e39.jpg
We had friends visit and put them to work shucking clams, thank you youtube! Put through the grinder, added to a batter similar to pancake mix and dropped in hot oil... the best clam fritters!
Unfortunately amnesiac shellfish poisoning rolled through not long after and we had to stop clamming... wait, what was I writing about...

[fearless]

Treehugger my kids are 5th generation born and raised on the Charlottes I miss the $h!t out of the place. You can never go hungry people are great but hard to make a living there anymore, I still go and visit get in my dose of fishing going back next fall and do a deer hunt miss the hunt there you pull the trigger it ain't over you still got more tags to fill. Most likely get back a couple of times this summer for a fish. Next time you talk to your father inlaw ask him if he remembers a guy running into the front of his truck when he was parked in the middle of the Honna bridge doing repairs haha. I was out for a morning hunt up Sleeping Beauty came down and around the corner there he was I hit the brakes but were'nt working that good anyways good thing I was going slow know damage.

[treehugger]

My fishing experience was fairly limited on the Charlottes. I grew up on a boat but have never really been drawn back... more of a land lubber. Friends were so generous with their catch you didn't really need a boat! That being said, my brother inlaw did buy a boat while we were up there and for a gerry can of gas I did get out a couple times. The crabbing was phenomenal and the fishing was pretty rewarding as well. In our unorganized chaotic fashion we did make it out through Skidegate Narrows and into Rennell Sound a couple times and catch a fish each...
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/Merino016_zps679da364.jpg
Through the narrows.
I only snapped a couple photos and then we were through. There's a boat launch in Rennell Sound itself. The road in can be pretty hairy and subject to slides. It's easier with a cuddy to launch in Skidigate then run the Narrows. It's a neat haul running through...
I did get heavily into fishing when the coho were running on the Tlell. It was surreal heading out to a River you could walk across and land a 12lb fish on 10lb test and a half ounce spoon.
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/Merino008_zps3bc7b66c.jpg
Run just starting.
When the run was on we were down there every day. My father inlaw and I had a good spot just up the road from his place or you could head down stream. If you're below the bridge the limit was 2 and if you were past the mouth you could use a treble hook. Every evening the school would migrate up the beach about 20' from shore. In the 2 days I tried I hooked 3 fish in less than 5 minutes but couldn't get them in past the surf.
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard266_zps7ba6801b.jpg
Early season they're quite bright. Dad caught a jack. I didn't know this and maybe some biologist can correct me. Apparently salmon run a four year life cycle but every year they return to their river mouth. Jacks have their cycle screwed up and follow the wrong run up the river instead of schooling at the mouth... they're gonna die anyway so that's why you can keep em.
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/dadscard328_zps1ea6aeb0.jpg
Later they go a little redder but they're still great for smoking, candying, jerkying and canning. (These ones were still BBQ worthy by my book!)

[treehugger]

Treehugger my kids are 5th generation born and raised on the Charlottes I miss the $h!t out of the place. You can never go hungry people are great but hard to make a living there anymore, I still go and visit get in my dose of fishing going back next fall and do a deer hunt miss the hunt there you pull the trigger it ain't over you still got more tags to fill. Most likely get back a couple of times this summer for a fish. Next time you talk to your father inlaw ask him if he remembers a guy running into the front of his truck when he was parked in the middle of the Honna bridge doing repairs haha. I was out for a morning hunt up Sleeping Beauty came down and around the corner there he was I hit the brakes but were'nt working that good anyways good thing I was going slow know damage.

I'll tell the Troll you say hello.. he'll get a kick outta that for sure! 5th generation! Your people must've darn near settled that place... hanging out with Mexican Tom and his mail order bride! A lot of history there...

[Iltasyuko]

With the right tides, and the right truck ;), you can actually drive from Tlell to Masset the long way round. You start by crossing the Tlell and working your way up past the Pesuta to Cape Ball. There are a few more rivers then your up around Rose Spit and on your way to Tow Hill on North Beach. For obvious reasons it's worth going in convoy as it's quite common to get stuck... then the tide comes in and you're left with a long walk home and an embarrassing call to ICBC.

Came extremely close to losing a truck on north beach not far from Tow hill - worste feeling in the world scrambling to dig out while the tide and ten foot waves are closing the gap by the minute.

[treehugger]

Came extremely close to losing a truck on north beach not far from Tow hill - worste feeling in the world scrambling to dig out while the tide and ten foot waves are closing the gap by the minute.
ugh. I can only imagine! I was a ball of nerves just driving the beach... You can see in the photo how far up the beach I parked... you probably drove a nicer truck too

[835]

Tree hugged. Yew burns great too,,, at the end of the night put a stove load in and it will be there the next morning!
some people might cringe at it but. Ucluelet, we stacked it separate so I could do just that..

Great thread!

[fearless]

I'll tell the Troll you say hello.. he'll get a kick outta that for sure! 5th generation! Your people must've darn near settled that place... hanging out with Mexican Tom and his mail order bride! A lot of history there...Yes it does one of my great uncles was the formen for the old North rd. My great great grandfather and old man Mathers cleared miles of wild rose bush where the Sandspit airport and golf coarse is today. My great grandmother watched the elk get unloaded from the boat when they released them in the twenties and so on. I've got lots of family still there including my older daughter which is the butcher in City Centre Stores.

[fearless]

Came extremely close to losing a truck on north beach not far from Tow hill - worste feeling in the world scrambling to dig out while the tide and ten foot waves are closing the gap by the minute.

I've seen 3 brand new trucks stuck on that beach trying to pull each other out amazing what one tide change can do for damage hahaha

[VancouverSkiBum]

great! keep it comin! your livin the life man.

[treehugger]

Tree hugged. Yew burns great too,,, at the end of the night put a stove load in and it will be there the next morning!
some people might cringe at it but. Ucluelet, we stacked it separate so I could do just that..

Great thread!

It's true! The inlaws have a bit... it takes a helluva long time to cure but when it does it's like coal. Another good burner is yellow cedar, gasp! Tons of btus, gives off moisture quick and smells nice too. There was a deal where you could get a logging truck load, 12-15 cords, for $900. Usually hemlock and pine but occasionally yellow cedar. I know of one guy who milled a bunch of his cedar firewood up!

[treehugger]

Yes it does one of my great uncles was the formen for the old North rd. My great great grandfather and old man Mathers cleared miles of wild rose bush where the Sandspit airport and golf coarse is today. My great grandmother watched the elk get unloaded from the boat when they released them in the twenties and so on. I've got lots of family still there including my older daughter which is the butcher in City Centre Stores.
I used to occasionally do the liquor and milk run for the Crows Nest down to City Centre with Matt D. I can't remember the day but once a week you can get pork fat trimmings for sausage making... we did. Small world... small island!

[treehugger]

As for sticking trucks... We tried to launch the boat off the beach in Tlell to fish the mouth of the river. I dunno where my brother inlaw got this idea but he got stuck so he unhooked, I backed in to pull the boat out when after we decided to abort and got stuck too. Fortunately the tide was almost all the way in so the trucks weren't swamped! While waiting for a third truck to pull us out is when we surf casted and hooked but couldn't bring in the salmon. We tried again the next two evenings and had the same result. Just before slack high is when they're moving up the beach to the river... waders next time!

[sherpa-Al]

TreeHugger, this is a great thread. Leaving the rat race and moving to the Charlottes is exactly what my family did in the 1980's, kind of a reset. The life experience and memories that you gain while living there stay with you and shape the way you live the rest of your life. I lived there for 6 years, and spent as much time as I could taking it all in, crabbing on the beach, beachcombing, coho fishing on the Tlell, (the trout fishing is world class upstream from Richardson Road, at least it used to be). There was never a shortage of things to do and see, bear and deer to hunt and halibut and steelhead to catch. I haven't been back for quite a few years, always seem to have some kind of lame excuse, usually work somehow gets in the way, not anymore though, not after this thread. Thanks.

Al

[riflebuilder]

I love this thread been on the bucket list for years...I am so envious

[Rhyno]

Really enjoying the thread, I think this is something most of us on here dream of doing. Thanks for keeping things interesting during the slow season!

[gerrygoat]

I have seen them at the log sort just burning yellow cedar which is a shame, at the B&B we stay at sometimes for fall hunts they burn it in the wood stove, burns nicely. When I worked there we went through the narrows a few times going on out to catch Halibut, pretty neat to go through there.

[treehugger]

TreeHugger, this is a great thread. Leaving the rat race and moving to the Charlottes is exactly what my family did in the 1980's, kind of a reset. The life experience and memories that you gain while living there stay with you and shape the way you live the rest of your life. I lived there for 6 years, and spent as much time as I could taking it all in, crabbing on the beach, beachcombing, coho fishing on the Tlell, (the trout fishing is world class upstream from Richardson Road, at least it used to be). There was never a shortage of things to do and see, bear and deer to hunt and halibut and steelhead to catch. I haven't been back for quite a few years, always seem to have some kind of lame excuse, usually work somehow gets in the way, not anymore though, not after this thread. Thanks.

Al

Thanks Al. I don't think it's changed too much. You have to work a bit harder for deer and you can't shoot bears anymore (provincial bag limit of 3 I think). The fishing is still good on the Tlell for cutthroat and dollies but it's catch and release there. My nephew still boraxes the roe we didn't use for 'Tlell River Caviar'... The copper you can keep your catch. Steelies are all catch and release except hatchery (there is no hatchery). I never did go steelhead fishing. I got a pair of waders the Christmas before we left too! Halibut fishing is still dynamite and salmon fishing is like Campbell River used to be back in the 80s! You're long overdue for a visit by the sounds of things!

The Yakoon River Inn might not be like you remember it either.... from what I hear anyways :(

[treehugger]

I have seen them at the log sort just burning yellow cedar which is a shame, at the B&B we stay at sometimes for fall hunts they burn it in the wood stove, burns nicely. When I worked there we went through the narrows a few times going on out to catch Halibut, pretty neat to go through there.

I guess it's better than letting it rot in the block. There are a few guys with salvage permits so a lot of that stuff wasn't touched. On one adventure we did pull out a butt of a log... Had to split it in 4 just to move it! I burnt mine but dad spirited some away and gave this to my wife last Christmas.

http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/image_zpsaa0cef00.jpg

shame I burnt mine now!

[panhead]

I think you must work for the ministry of tourism treehugger, we're all heading over ... thanx for sharing a GREAT thread. Now can you just "put a few shrimp on the barbie?"

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A job is just trading your time for money

[sherpa-Al]

I wouldn't think things have changed too much, that's the beauty of the place. The Yakoun was my favorite for hunting/fishing. The steelhead were thick, 10-15 fish days were the norm and expected. I'd fish all day by my self and never see another fisherman, and this would be 99% of the time. I'm sure it's not like that anymore. I spent a lot of time in Tlell, that's where my girlfriend lived, spent countless days on the beaches there, fishing the Tlell and picking mushrooms and cones for seedlings. Good times.

[biggyun68]

Wow thanks for all the comments! It's been fun going through the photos and putting together a story... also, keep the book recommendations coming!
-never fly over an eagles nest, joe garner
-never chop your rope, jgarner
-the golden spruce, john vaillant
-tiger, jvaillant
-grizzlies and whit guys


Grizzlies and White Guys is followed by the book Bella Coola man which are stories about Anhim Lake and Bella Coola places and history

[two-feet]

Another book you fellas should read is " In the wake of the war canoe" by Collison. He was the first white missionary on the Charlottes. Also covers some tome spent at Metlakatla and in the Nass. Crazy stories. Among other things he crossed the Hecate in cedar canoe 13 times. If you love the area it is a must read.

[greybark]

For Bowyers in the USA the option of nice figured Yew laminations for limbs (four pieces 33 in x 2 in x 3/100 ths in thick) is a $150 boost . And your burning it . LOL .
A good ride keep er going .
Cheers

[fearless]

Another book you fellas should read is " In the wake of the war canoe" by Collison. He was the first white missionary on the Charlottes. Also covers some tome spent at Metlakatla and in the Nass. Crazy stories. Among other things he crossed the Hecate in cedar canoe 13 times. If you love the area it is a must read.

x2.........

[fearless]

For Bowyers in the USA the option of nice figured Yew laminations for limbs (four pieces 33 in x 2 in x 3/100 ths in thick) is a $150 boost . And your burning it . LOL .
A good ride keep er going .
Cheers
Really I got few dollars stored away then.:-D

[treehugger]

I'll preface this with a warning. Don't expect to see any whoppers... There will be no 360 class RMEs or any elk for that matter. No 100" Sitka Blacktails, geese or ducks... just a steady improvement. When I moved to the Charlottes my attitude to hunting was totally different, if it's legal... shoot it. Just as with the firewooding, once the greenhouse (freezer) was full it became less about the harvest and more about the hunt...

Hunting:
I know I know... the reason we're all on this site. I thought I'd save it to the end of this saga.
When I first hunted the Charlottes I did what a lot of folks do. I read the regs, packed my rifle and prepared for the slaughter. From all accounts, especially the old boys, it was gonna be like shooting fish in a barrel. Not so. My father inlaw, who admittedly was never really a hunter, assured me we'd drive the back roads, find a nice deer and shoot it. My own hunting experience wasn't exactly illustrious either. My family went on an annual thanksgiving hunt to region 3. We'd usually have a doe tag between us and if not we'd cruise the road looking for anything with horns.... preferably early in the weekend but pretty much always unsuccessfully! We did have good mentors, however, and with our 'one long weekend a year' abilities we'd attempt to spot and stalk. My older brother was better at it than me but I had a couple right place at the right time moments over the years.
...back to the Charlottes. My father inlaw and I awoke early and headed south with our gear for the day. We were going to work our way to Port Clements from Charlotte through the network of roads my bridge builder father inlaw had helped push through in the early seventies. The trip in itself was fascinating. Checking out the raw log bridges he built with a backhoe, an 090 and determination was awesome! These bridges held up better than the newer contractor installed bridges... they were a serious feat of engineering. The wildlife side of things was dismal. With the bag limits I figured I'd shoot anything and be doing the locals a favour. Towards the end of the day we spotted a lone doe and I dove from the truck, loaded my 30-06 and an already successful day was iced.
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/qci2010015_zpse38c96ea.jpg
I'll probably catch some flack for this but so be it. The deer I shot was a fuzzy headed, barely lost its spots fawn. It was tiny. My father in law joked, 'At least that milk fed dear'll be tender'. It wasn't even that. The tenderloins, which were like hot dogs, were so tough they were almost indelible. Cut with pork it did, however, make delicious sausage.
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/qci2010113_zpsb2d6a20a.jpg
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/qci2010020_zps28e7b999.jpg
Sausage and pâté making
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/qci2010112_zps554673c1.jpg
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/qci2010120_zpsac7248f0.jpg
Vacuum packing

[treehugger]

I was determined to shoot something bigger. I shot a couple more that trip but never with horns... it wasn't a priority. When we moved up a year and a bit later I was determined to do better still. As I said earlier, it wasn't long until the gun was riding shotgun.
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/movetocharlottes174_zpsd0c02295.jpg
This handsome fella had lost his horns but was my best so far.

Bow Hunting:
Moving onto some land, with neighbours still, I was seeing a lot of game out my windows during the day and thought it'd be neat to shoot something on the land. I started thinking bow hunting! My inlaws were heading down to the city and sight unseen I got my dad to pick up a used bow ready to go from usedvic. I googled the bow, High Country Excalibur with the hatchet cams. Sounded like it was cutting edge.... back in '95! He had it tuned at Island Outfitters , got 3 arrows made and sent it up. I practiced relentlessly and after destroying one of my 3 arrows (literally on my second shot) I was getting pretty confident out to 30yds. After a month or so and every youtube tutorial I could find I could hit a pie plate 10 out of 10 times to 30yds. I'm sure some of the archery nuts would probably have a heart attack if they saw my form!
An opportunity finally presented itself as a small group a of deer, with 2 spikes, grazed across my lawn. It was go time! I donned my release, screwed on my broadheads and snuck out my back door. They fed around the equipment shed and out of sight. I went the other way and moved to intercept them as they fed through a shooting lane on the other side. Sure enough the smaller of the spikes moved into my lane at what I estimated to be at about 25yds (no rangefinder). He had ugly horns and looked a bit strange in his broadside stance but the shot was presented so I drew, split just behind his shoulder with my 20 and 30yd pins and released. THUMP! It sounded like a basey bongo drum. The deer turned away and took off... it was like a fire hose out his side surging with each step. He disappeared into the timber. After a short track with my dog I (he) found him piled up in a small stand of trees about 70yds from where I shot him.
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/fixingtruckhawksandeggs070_zps28aa949d.jpg
He wasn't big but my first bow kill! His horns pointed in opposite directions and it turns out he was missing his back left leg from about halfway down his shank. It was healed over? in a perfectly formed stump. It was so perfect it was almost like there was never a wound. Probably a good one to get out of the herd.

I took my bow into the Pontoons opening day for archery elk but only managed to call in some other hunters. I was solo and unprepared (having not elk hunted before) so in hindsight it was best I didn't hear or see anything... this time. I did shoot a dry doe later in the season and then my bow exploded. This was when I made my first post on here. I've fixed it and had a chance to fondle a few newer models since so I'm hooked. Thanks again to those enthusiasts who helped a total stranger.

[Rhyno]

Too bad your first Charlotte deer wasn't tasty....over cooked?....just had some tonight from my last trip there....best eating deer out there IMO.

[treehugger]

The longer I stayed the more into hunting Blacktails I got. I joined the local fire dept and talked a lot of hunting with herefordsrock. Turns out shooting does is legal but not exactly encouraged. The more I learned the more I wanted to go for a decent mature buck... Turns out they're elusive and it starts with finding a decent setting. It's pretty thick on the Charlottes and even if there are animals around it's so bloody hard to see anything. The roads are off limits as far a seeing bucks... they are heavily patrolled at night and picked pretty clean. If you have a boat access is increased but I didn't. I'd covered a lot of country by road firewooding, yew-wooding and exploring. I'd google earthed and studied my backwoods map book. I laced up and hiked and snuck through the steep bluffy timber and heard animals running but could never get an eye on them.

It took a while but I finally found some country I had some sight lines in. I left early on a rainy morning and got to my spot. I worked my way into my area with a plan to keep moving. The rut was on and I immediately came across a decent spike hanging around with a doe. They were about 100yds off and I didn't like the off-hand shot so as I moved to a tree for rest, they took off into the bush. I decided it was still early and I'd follow them. I crept along and jumped another deer about 30mins later. It was pretty thick so I never saw it but I did smell it and it stank! I continued working my way through the sparse timber and came up on another doe. She wasn't overly concerned with me but turned and browsed her way into some thicker timber. I followed and she led me to a pretty nice stand of trees that was pretty clear on the floor. Lots of deadfall but no salal. At this point she had moved effortlessly quite far ahead of me. Not too clumsily I tried to follow. I came around a tree and about 30yds ahead a deer face, beautifully backed by the sun was staring at me and it wasn't her... it was the best buck I'd seen on my Haida Gwaiin adventures so far. My rifle came up and as the scope came to my eye I was literally blinded by the light! I couldn't find the animal as the light was terrible. When the scope came down... he was gone. Fortunately a short walk later I bumped into him again, this time broadside and more importantly not backlit!
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/deerandhazel036_zps61524369.jpg
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/deerandhazel035_zps711efe43.jpg
Here he is. He had broken a tine but I was pretty happy all the same.

[treehugger]

See ya later:
Unfortunately work forced us to move back to Victoria the following spring... there are worse places to live. But our adventure on the Charlottes definitely sparked a growing passion for the outdoors and hunting. I feel a lot more proficient and love LOVE getting out.
Since coming back down south I've been pretty fortunate this past fall with successful hunts and new territories discovered. I feel without my experience on the Charlotttes, my time exploring, the countless hours surfing HBC and reading the inspiring threads people have taken the time to post I wouldn't have had half the fun I had this past season. So, to the people who have taken the time to post and share, thank you.

http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/036_zps56a80f19.jpg
Saying goodbye to the chickens. My inlaws took them and added them to their own flock. For months you could tell ours from the others... whenever someone went outside they were bombarded by our 8 or so remaining chickens looking for a tail shake
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy130/Nikkibaja/039_zpsa60eb24d.jpg
exodus

[luckofthedraw]

Nice job on the post. Thanks for bringing us to the Charlottes with ya.

[Treed]

Had to laugh at your first deer ya took with a bow. Mine first one was also missing the lower half of his leg. Great post and thanks for the reminder to find the guts to step outside of the usual life we live.

[treehugger]

I think you must work for the ministry of tourism treehugger, we're all heading over ... thanx for sharing a GREAT thread. Now can you just "put a few shrimp on the barbie?"

Haha... When your over don't forget to swing by the visitor centre and get your complimentary fanny pack and trail map!

[treehugger]

-never fly over an eagles nest, joe garner
-never chop your rope, jgarner
-the golden spruce, john vaillant
-tiger, jvaillant
-grizzlies and white guys, Clayton Mack
-Bella Coola man, cmack
-in the wake of the war canoe, collison

thanks for all the recommendations... certainly help pass the off season!

[treehugger]

For Bowyers in the USA the option of nice figured Yew laminations for limbs (four pieces 33 in x 2 in x 3/100 ths in thick) is a $150 boost . And your burning it . LOL .
A good ride keep er going .
Cheers

I had forgotten yew was used back in the day (and presently) for bow making. Come to think of it, I think my HCA might qualify as a traditional bow by now... I'll have a look! :D

[greybark]

Hey treehugger that was a good and different ride , Now is that a Yew wood stave in the bck window of your camper . LOL
I don`t think your bow qualifies as traditional but haveing owned one know it qualifies for the Museum. LOL
Cheers

[Crab Bait]

Bucket list!!

Tree hugger, in a few years once the kids are out, my wife and I were thinking of doing a 4-5 month move to the Islands. Perfect would be June to October.

I would love to get stuck on the beach, dig some Razors, and explore. Of coarse, the gun and the bow would come along.

What is the houses/shacks/cabins rental like? We have lived ugly before, and a ways out of town would be perfect. This is all 5 years away, and things change, but any comments you have would be great. I hope there is still a coho, halibut and razor clam left by then. Nice to think about though.

Great write up, thank-you!

[835]

Great thread Tree hugger!
Unfortunatly you will be hard pressed to get any adventure like that down here in VIC!

you will need to go back!!!

[Boner]

Great read, I've spent a few months over there for work. My wife and I love the place, but we decided pretty quickly we could never live there.

[jonz]

Thanks for this great thread.

[treehugger]

Thanks for reading guys


Great read, I've spent a few months over there for work. My wife and I love the place, but we decided pretty quickly we could never live there.

it took us a year and a half... and we're still not sure!