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CSG
12-12-2013, 01:52 AM
I am looking to mount 3 racks onto 3 separate plaques over the holidays. All 3 racks were sawn off of the skulls and I am wondering if anyone has a good method to secure these to a plaque without drilling a hole through them. The skull portions will not be covered with anything.

THe one I am worried about the most is the elk rack which weighs quite a bit.

These are also hanging 10 feet off of a concrete floor, over a couch I sit on regularly, really dont want them to fall haha

Thanks for any advice

PS-pics would be great

greenhorn
12-12-2013, 07:42 AM
I fill the underside of the skull plate with a strong plaster of paris mix, once it is half set, I embed two or three drywall anchors (heavy duty), then add more plaster of paris to hold them in place. Once the plaster has cured, I profile it with sand paper to flatten it out and remove excess. Once complete, you'll have a skull cap with antlers, with two or three drywall anchors that you can use to receive a threaded fastener through a piece of wood.

sawmill
12-12-2013, 09:00 AM
If you are hanging an elk rack you have to have them more secure than just plaster holding drywall anchors.
I cut a piece of 1/2 in. ply the shape I want the head to be and drill thru the skull and drive a couple stout screws to the wood.I use premix drywall compound to form the head part,usually take 2 or 3 aplications,drying well between each one.Then sand it down to shape it,I cover some with leather,some with felt buy starting at the top,staple to the wood at back,pull down and tight,staple the bottom at back then work my way around.You need to carefully cut a bit to fit around the horn bases,When done drive a couple screws through the plack and into the back of the wood on the head.Strong like bull,I`v done scores of racks from spike deer to 60 inch moose this way.

greenhorn
12-12-2013, 12:56 PM
I've done big heavy racks.... it's stronger than you may think.

If you want to increase the strength you can screw wood screws into the bone and then add the plaster or heavy epoxy as described. The wood screws will be embedded in the epoxy/plaster and add a mechanical lock to the adhesion of the plaster/epoxy to bone.

deer nut
12-12-2013, 01:31 PM
I've used a funk of wood embedded in bondo which worked well for small deer- gives you something to screw into from the back of the plaque.

hawk-i
12-12-2013, 01:38 PM
I use lag bolts and from the back of the plaque countersink them and drill into the skull...but not through the skull, then simply thread the lag bolt into the skull and tighten....very strong.

sawmill
12-12-2013, 02:21 PM
Why would you want just a sawed off skull plate mounted on the wall? Is it cut from the back of the skull down to below the nose or a eyeball to ear cut?

Dannybuoy
12-12-2013, 04:36 PM
Why would you want just a sawed off skull plate mounted on the wall? Is it cut from the back of the skull down to below the nose or a eyeball to ear cut?
Do try to keep up sawmill ... All the cool guys are doing it ! :wink:

ACE
12-12-2013, 05:02 PM
A taxidermist showed me how they like to see the skull cut when they receive antlers for a head mount. I've used the same cut technique for antlers that you just want to hang on your wall.

Start the cut just below the knob/ridge on the back of the skull, and continue through the top third of the eye opening, and finish blow the nasal cavity. Just one cut.

Here's a old mulie rack showing the cut. The mounting screws are through the two small holes that anchor tendons. No holes were drilled.

Unable to upload photo's ...... sorry!

sawmill
12-12-2013, 05:37 PM
A taxidermist showed me how they like to see the skull cut when they receive antlers for a head mount. I've used the same cut technique for antlers that you just want to hang on your wall.

Start the cut just below the knob/ridge on the back of the skull, and continue through the top third of the eye opening, and finish blow the nasal cavity. Just one cut.

Here's a old mulie rack showing the cut. The mounting screws are through the two small holes that anchor tendons. No holes were drilled.

Unable to upload photo's ...... sorry!

Yup,that`s why I asked.I do it that way too.You can Euro them that way,a streamlined look.Pretty sharp on a nice backboard.

mwalter
12-12-2013, 05:52 PM
In this case...I would tap the base of the antler with a small drill bit from the inside of the skull side then screw through the back of the plaque or wood and connect into that pre drilled hole. The antler material should have tones of pull out strength ...use about a number ten screw or one with coarser threads... It may be tricky lining up the screw holes but would be a clean look . Also countersink screw head on back of wood. I always tighten items like this by hand u don't want to split the remaining skull. Good luck

fuzzy 63
12-14-2013, 03:29 PM
Hello , in the july 2012 issue of traditional bowhunter , there is a excellent article with regards to this subject . I have a really nice set of antlers given to me of a non typical mule deer from the lumby area . they have broken in the middle of the skull base , although still together with hemp twine . I have looked at the process in the article and it seems pretty straight forward to do and as i do it ,I will post some pics and start a new thread . the finished product in the magazine is really nice ! Stay tuned for more
Cliff
http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag165/fuzzy_63/20131214_135735_zps8030e730.jpg (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/fuzzy_63/media/20131214_135735_zps8030e730.jpg.html)

fuzzy 63
12-14-2013, 03:37 PM
another shot from the front
http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag165/fuzzy_63/20131214_135716_zps2551bdb5.jpg (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/fuzzy_63/media/20131214_135716_zps2551bdb5.jpg.html)