Pins and their placement (achery question)

[qhergt]

ghert - if I do the math right your arrows should be coming in at closer to 417 grains than 370. Shaft - 260 to 270(ish), insert - 15, tip - 100, fletching - 20, and nock - 10 to 14.......all adds up to more than 370 grains.

But it's the fight of the finished arrow that counts. Oh yeah, and the shooter.

I find im getting about a 1/2-3/4" drop from 10-20 yards when using 100g blunts (bludgeons)

[Bow Walker]

I find im getting about a 1/2-3/4" drop from 10-20 yards when using 100g blunts (bludgeons)

Most likely due to the shape of the bludgeon tip. It's not aerodynamic in the least.

[Bowzone_Mikey]

I don't quite understand the whole point of one pin up to 40 yards. I shoot one of the faster bows out there(bowtech invasion at 83.2 lbs) and I still have all of my pins at ten yard increments starting at 20 yards. I would definetely be shooting low with my 20 yard pin at 40 yards. I just dont see the benefit of the whole one pin thing. Just me.

That phrase is nothing more than marketing hype ..... you could use 1 pin for all distances ... just know where to hold pin ...

one pin to 40 usually means zero a pin at 30 and high for 40 and low for 20

[Bowzone_Mikey]

70# 28" draw 340 spined arrows 9.3 gpi 29" with 100g heads for approx 370 grains weight. 20 yard pin will work from 1-20 yards and still put me within an inch of where I am aiming. But for close range shooting of small game I sure like to have that 10 yard pin as i find my blunts kill best with headshots

I would recheck those poi at all yardages if i were you

[qhergt]

I would recheck those poi at all yardages if i were you

sent you a PM, But I may as well post it here as well...

I went and did just that. with my 100g 1 1/8" Slicktrick broadheads my first pin is shooting dead center out to 20 yards consistently. But with 100g points at 20 yards Im having them hit about 8" low and im having to use my second pin which for my BH's is dead center at 30.

Basically, the way my pins are set now for points its 10,20,30,40,50 and BH 20,30,40,50,60 (although I haven't dialed in the last 2 pins perfectly yet) Im going to be getting some new strings as these are the original ones and they are starting to frey a bit and it seems to be shooting slower then it did a few months ago.


Iv been having major issues getting the bow to group the BH and points together as well. Have had it centered at the local bow shop, and paper tuned with points and it was shooting perfectly straight. But the BH's would be about 10" right. I moved my rest over to the left about a 1/16" and re shot a bh and point. I tried moving the rest over a a bit more but started to see a tail kick when I shot though paper so I backed it off.

BH and points started to shoot closer together, but still shot noticeably separate groups. Its hunting season anyway, so I just adjusted the windage on the sight so they were shooting center. I walked back and shot and pin 1 was good to 20 yards, 2 to 30, and 3 to 40. (again, with points this ended up being 10y, 20y, 30y)


Only thing I can think of is that those 4 blade fixed BH's are stabilizing the arrow flight by acting like a wing.

Im shooting a 2008 Mathews Switchback Solocam.
Draw is 28"@70# (maxed limbs out and they are 70# limbs, not sure of exact weight but its definitely between 65-70)
29" .340 spine, blazer fletched arrows (easton powerflights 9.3gpi)

[Bowzone_Mikey]

OK I sent you a PM back .... Obviously I miss understood what you were saying ..... From what I interpreted .. you stated that your top pin would do all distances from 1 yard to 20 yards ..... That simply isnt true .... At 1 yard i just put my stab on the target 6" below where I wanna hit it 2 yard shot is a 70 ish pin etc.... if I put my 20 yard pin on the X ring of a gator at 2 yards I am lucky to cut an 8 line

Re-reading you post ... you have a 28 draw ... and 29" arrows .... Yep ... I would cut close to an inch off them as I think you are weak spined ... and that is causing you 10" off FP POI issue .... or look at .300 spine ....

The switch back is an aggresive solo cam bow ... it likes stiffer spined arrows ....
... get the shop to cut an inch off one of your arrows and put a FP on it ... zero ... put a BH on it and it should be a ton closer if not the same .... also make certain that the insert is glued in Perfectly square .... That would would cause a world of grief as well with BHs

[mntbowhunter]

Speaking of pin gap did anyone read that article in the Eastmans bowhunting journal about the website where you plug your bow type in, poundage, arrow length/weight etc and it will give you a printout of what your pin gap should be so really you only have to sight your 20 yard pin in and the rest you just line up with the printout? Seems pretty cool actually. I cant remember what the site was called but I am sure with a little bit of google looking it would be easy to find.

[Bowzone_Mikey]

Speaking of pin gap did anyone read that article in the Eastmans bowhunting journal about the website where you plug your bow type in, poundage, arrow length/weight etc and it will give you a printout of what your pin gap should be so really you only have to sight your 20 yard pin in and the rest you just line up with the printout? Seems pretty cool actually. I cant remember what the site was called but I am sure with a little bit of google looking it would be easy to find.

TAP(the Archery Program) Archers Advantage, Pinwheel software ... about 5 or 6 other notable programs out there that will do the same thing .... I believe you are talking Pinwheel ... its good as long you get an accurate measurment on your peep height, and sight bar distance .... if the numbers in the program are good for your particular bow ... I have found that a 20/60 method works better for archery ballistic software ... or just marking my own. I have used alot of programs for sight tapes

[Bow Walker]

The switch back is an aggresive solo cam bow ... it likes stiffer spined arrows ....
... get the shop to cut an inch off one of your arrows and put a FP on it ... zero ... put a BH on it and it should be a ton closer if not the same .... also make certain that the insert is glued in Perfectly square .... That would would cause a world of grief as well with BHs

Great advice for the arrow length/spine problem. Today's arrow rest are almost all mounted in such a way that the actual rest for the arrow can be as much as 2 inches behind the arrow shelf. That fact allows for a slightly weaker spined arrow shaft - BUT - they have to be cut correctly to work properly.

My draw length is right in the 28" to 28.5" area, yet my arrows are cut to 26 3/8" before I add inserts, tips, or nocks.

Another point is to be certain that your broadheads are tuned to your arrow shaft. About the only way to do this is to get an arrow spinner, assemble the arrow with your broadhead (or field tip) and put the arrow in the spinner - give it a few spins and check for any wobble at the point end and the nock end.



If there is any wobble you cn usually correct it by taking the tip off and putting it back on again. Careful not to over-tighten the point onto the insert or you run the risk of loosening the insert - but you do want the heads tight to the shaft.

Slick Tricks are notorious for being a bit finicky to tune to the arrow shaft. Mainly because the little washer can magnify any defects in either the shaft or the insert. So make sure your arrow shafts are square and your inserts are square.

Square up "store cut" arrow shafts at home with a bit of sand paper. Square up the inserts the same way. OR...you could go out and buy G5's Arrow Squaring Device, which will do it for you.

[Bow Walker]

The arrow spinner is made by "Pine Ridge" - it's the inexpensive one, but it works very, very well.