A sporting first grouse hunt

[dutchie]

To add, the time you hunt is just like any big game.

You have to know what times they are the most active.

I have always found that early in the morning and from about 2 o'clock pm to about 5 o'clock pm to be the best time. Same with Rabbits!

I would not discount rabbit hunting because they are actually really fun to hunt and it is pretty easy. I use a .22 for both. Rabbits are great eating too.

Dutchie

[Jedcote50]

I started hunting 'chickens' with a O/U 12 ga. many years ago because that's all I had, I graduated to a 20 ga pump but now I use a 410. My hunting buddies have used 22's because they felt it was more sporting, but I've seen a lot of birds fly away after being hit. If you use a 22 you have to be a GOOD shot, and I suggest aiming only for their head.
Knowing which type of grouse you are likely to come across will also determine the best choice of fire power to use.Grouse are very approachable early in the season, before they get spooked by people shooting them. Each species has their preferred habitat in which they thrive and this will also factor into your gun choice. I have found that Spruce grouse sit the longest , that's why they're known as fool hens. You'll hear stories of people killing them with a stick or rock but a 22 on these guys works well. Ruffies are often the most common bird found here in the interior and are generally quicker to fly then Spruces, but early in the season they can be easy pickin' off the roadside, you can use either your 22 or 12 ga. for these guys. My favorite are the Blues, they are generally bigger and more skidish than their cousins and you generally find these guys up higher in dryer locations. These birds are quick off the draw and your shot gun works the best on them. I'll shoot any of them off the roadside if given a shot, but they are the most fun if you can get them on the wing. When I had a retriever dog I would only wing shoot but now I'm not as die hard because I can't scamper thru the brush to find the downed quarry. Shooting birds out of a tree is no different them taking them off the road (ethically ) but remember that the trajectory of your shot is very different and the likelyhood of ' peppering ' the meat is greater.
I only use size 6 or 7 1/2 shot, anything else just rips the meat up too much. When I was younger I would keep a few slugs ( for the 12 or 20 ga. ) handy just in case I stumbled on a deer, but that didn't happen very often. Now I find that I hunt for deer early in the morning and look for chickens later when it warms up. The afternoon is good for both but by then I've figured out which game I want to concentrate on on that particular day. I've nailed a few birds with the 30:06 but the novelty for that wears out when all you are left with is half a breast and a bunch of feathers.
Last but not least, here's a tip for cleaning your grouse. Usually most people use the old ' stand on the wings and pull the feet ' method, which works wonderfully as long as you remove the head first and do it while the bird is still WARM ( and remember to keep at least one wing attached for ID ).
I found grouse hunting an ideal way to start my hunting experience and gain valuable bush sense. Have fun.

[NorthShoreX]

To add, the time you hunt is just like any big game.

You have to know what times they are the most active.

I have always found that early in the morning and from about 2 o'clock pm to about 5 o'clock pm to be the best time. Same with Rabbits!

I would not discount rabbit hunting because they are actually really fun to hunt and it is pretty easy. I use a .22 for both. Rabbits are great eating too.

Dutchie

I went on my first ever hunt on Monday-Tuesday for Snowshoe Hares. You're right, it is really fun. It was very hot where we were, so they didn't come out until 5:30pm and they stayed out until 10:30am. I got two in a half-hour on Tuesday morning, my buddy got one. We used .22's on them. The only thing we had a problem with was trying to close the gap with out getting spotted, those hares have good sight and hearing.

[Morel]

If you use a 22 you have to be a GOOD shot, and I suggest aiming only for their head.

Jedcote50, I was planning on going for blue/sooty grouse. What, is your criteria for being a good shot with a .22?

I have been practicing basic skills like trigger control from a bench at 25 and 50m aiming at a 3/4" spot using my .22 (Savage Mark II bolt). I have been shooting groups of 6-10 shots and measuring group size, average distance from the centre of the target spot and number of hits on the target. I feel the only measures that really matters for hunting is the number of times I hit the 3/4" target - everything else would be a miss when aiming for the head. The measures of average distance and group size are ways of measuring improvement (right now my average distance from the bull at 50m for 371 individual shots over 4 trips to the range is 2.5cm (1"). I am now working on shooting from a standing position and will also work on kneeling (prone seems unreasonable for grouse but will be useful in the future for deer).

Is this a reasonable choice of practice target for blue grouse (3/4" circles)? I could not find measurements for a grouse head so used the head size of a domestic chicken (1") as a starting point.

In shooting 10 shot groups, what would be a reasonable objective for practicing (5/10, 10/10)? Out of 10, ten shot groups (100 shots in total) what would be a reasonable objective for practicing (i.e. what would qualify as a good shot)? I guy I was talking with at a gun shop basically indicated that he shot 1/2" groups with a Ruger 10/22 at 50m. When I asked if this was 3 shots or 10 he replied that you should be able to shoot as many shots as you want and keep them within 1/2" if you were good. I don't have enough experience to determine if he is being a salesperson or is really a very good shot (my inclination is to take his advice with a grain of salt).

Cheers,

[new hunter]

When it comes to rifle accuracy I have found that it is all dependent on you position and your rest . I shot some subsonics out of my norinco the other day and yes I could group consistintly in under an inch , but I was shooting prone off a sand bag . If i were shooting standing or kneeling I would be challenged to hit a pop can at that range {not really , but close } . I have also found that your choice of ammo affects youre accuracy , my small groups at fifty were with cci sub sonics , then I shot some cans at 125 with american eagle hv hollowpoinst and saw my groups open right up { kneeling and off the bag } . After I shot up the A.E. I found some remington thunder bolts and some winchester super x in my truck , both shot better than the A.E. , and both shot different than each other {remigtons were best } but niether shot as well as the subsonics .
I have two suggestions for you , one is to make a set of shooting sticks out of some thick dowel {improvised bipod , but taller , more suitable for kneeling shots instead of prone } , they have helped my long range accuracy alot . The other is to buy a whole bunch of small bricks of ammo {.22 is cheap } . Take youre 10-22 , youre cleaning kit and some sight in targets to your range and shoot for groups . Take some sand bags with you , it will take the guess work out of youre results .
I just re read youre last post , and it sound like you have a pretty good idea of what youre doing already , with practice and the right ammo I'm sure you'll be a regular grouse sniper . Be patient and shoot those one inch groups like youre shooting a grand , and have fun this season.

[barry6.5x55]

When you are grouse only hunting that is when you will see tons of deer thats just it way it
goes !!! as for your question I say go with a shotgun over .22 for grouse initially.

[Morel]

If you hunting on foot it is unlikely you'll see anything at all until you're fairly seasoned , so I really wouldn't worry about having an unfair advantage.

Ahhhh, harsh reality intrudes. I expect the first couple of seasons to be a bit of a bust in terms of actually catching a grouse so will take every opportunity to learn about their behaviour, habitat etc. I will not discount a bit of driving but am looking forward to walking, if not for the grouse then just for the walking - thinking and observing time. I expect the learning curve to be a bit steep. Grouse are mostly able to avoid far better predators than me.

[Spirit's Master]

Don't be discouraged Morel, I'm entering my third year of hunting and have already taken a few grouse. My lab is 2 1/2 yrs old and has been a great help in scaring up birds. We have found a few spots that have produced birds consistently. Some grouse is better than no grouse.

Put in the miles on foot. Go slow, listen and keep searching. Here on the Island we've seen grouse in all sorts of spots, on stumps, 20' up trees, in ditches, in/under bushes and on the road.

And all of our birds have been taken with a 12g, usually 7.5 shot. No problems with pellets.

[sapper]

Ahhhh, harsh reality intrudes. I expect the first couple of seasons to be a bit of a bust in terms of actually catching a grouse so will take every opportunity to learn about their behaviour, habitat etc. I will not discount a bit of driving but am looking forward to walking, if not for the grouse then just for the walking - thinking and observing time. I expect the learning curve to be a bit steep. Grouse are mostly able to avoid far better predators than me.

I've never had any success in "catching" them. You will likely run into all kinds of game though as you try to hunt and shoot grouse.

[Backcountry archer]

I try to pass on to all new hunters that when hunting Grouse, try not to "clean up" on the entire covey.
If it is a large group with full size young, take one or two and leave the rest. Good management I think.