arrow weight?

[nieves]

heres a noob question about target shooting arrows and the broadheads for hunting...

do they weigh the same?? just wondering if i get used to shooting target/practice arrows, will it feel all wonky when i go for a hunt with broadheads? does it just depend on the type/quality of the arrows i get?

its just something i was thinking about today :P

tx for any help!

nieves

[Jagermeister]

They can be of different weight, but that would be not a good idea. You should shoot the same weight whether target or hunting. Be more concerned about keeping the total arrow weight above the minimum recommended for the bow your shooting. Shooting an arrow with a less than recommended weight has the same effect as dry-firing.

[nieves]

They can be of different weight, but that would be not a good idea. You should shoot the same weight whether target or hunting. Be more concerned about keeping the total arrow weight above the minimum recommended for the bow your shooting. Shooting an arrow with a less than recommended weight has the same effect as dry-firing.

tx jag :P and ill keep that in mind about the minimum weight.. i didnt know that!!

[Jagermeister]

tx jag :P and ill keep that in mind about the minimum weight.. i didnt know that!!

The arrow minimum grains should be indicated on your bow, likely on the lower limb where the bow weight and drawlength are found. Not all bows will have that information for one reason or another.
There are formulas for calculating the minimum grains per arrow, I'm sure an internet search would reveal that.

[seanfalloy]

I was just playing with this last night. Really nice (and seemingly accurate) archery calculator

http://backcountrybowhunting.com/articles/calc/

I have only been shooting for a year but from what i can gather your arrow weight should be geared towards speed if you want to only shoot targets and if your going to hunt maybe go with a bit heavier arrow to retain the energy upon impact. BUT always use the same arrows you practice with otherwise you will not know where they are going to hit

Also get arrows Spined for your draw weight ( I shoot Xweave 300 at 70 lbs and my buddy shoots Xweave 200 at 60lbs ) If they are over-spined you wont get the speed or flex needed on release and if they are under-spined they can flex to much and break. I have heard stories of broken arrows going through the bow hand's wrist due to damage and to light of arrows

[nieves]

BUT always use the same arrows you practice with otherwise you will not know where they are going to hit

that was exactly what i had thought would happen but seeing as i dont even have a bow yet (REAL beginner:P ) and im still trying to read on up on things, i thot id ask :P

tx guys for the info

heres another question!

is it better to just bite the bullet (arrow?? lol) on price and get a new bow or how reliable are used ones? i guess kinda obvious once i typed that one out... hehe

[knockturnal]

I was just playing with this last night. Really nice (and seemingly accurate) archery calculator

http://backcountrybowhunting.com/articles/calc/

I have only been shooting for a year but from what i can gather your arrow weight should be geared towards speed if you want to only shoot targets and if your going to hunt maybe go with a bit heavier arrow to retain the energy upon impact. BUT always use the same arrows you practice with otherwise you will not know where they are going to hit

Also get arrows Spined for your draw weight ( I shoot Xweave 300 at 70 lbs and my buddy shoots Xweave 200 at 60lbs ) If they are over-spined you wont get the speed or flex needed on release and if they are under-spined they can flex to much and break. I have heard stories of broken arrows going through the bow hand's wrist due to damage and to light of arrows

I think you have your numbers mixed up. An arrow with a lower spine number is stiffer then an arrow with a higher spine number. 300 is stiffer then a 400 for example. If your buddy is shooting 200 spine arrows out of a 60lb bow, he's to stiff for his setup. As I stated on another thread somewheres, take your bow poundage and multiply it by 5. That's your lowest arrow grains that you want to shoot. I multiply by 5.5 just to be safe. My bow is set at 70lbs x 5.5 and you get 385. Use that as your base. On your arrow somewhere, it will tell you how many GPI (grains per inch) your arrow is. Mine are 29 1/8 long at 10gpi giving me 290. Add in a 100 gr tip/broadhead and I'm at 390. My lumenocks weigh 26 grains and fletched weigh around 5. That brings me to 421grains if my math is correct. Which is over my 385gr base. Make sense?

[nieves]

I think you have your numbers mixed up. An arrow with a lower spine number is stiffer then an arrow with a higher spine number. 300 is stiffer then a 400 for example. If your buddy is shooting 200 spine arrows out of a 60lb bow, he's to stiff for his setup. As I stated on another thread somewheres, take your bow poundage and multiply it by 5. That's your lowest arrow grains that you want to shoot. I multiply by 5.5 just to be safe. My bow is set at 70lbs x 5.5 and you get 385. Use that as your base. On your arrow somewhere, it will tell you how many GPI (grains per inch) your arrow is. Mine are 29 1/8 long at 10gpi giving me 290. Add in a 100 gr tip/broadhead and I'm at 390. My lumenocks weigh 26 grains and fletched weigh around 5. That brings me to 421grains if my math is correct. Which is over my 385gr base. Make sense?

google-ing furiously...yep.. riiiiight behind ya.. jes gimme a sec for my slow mind to catch up :P

[Vader]

I think you have your numbers mixed up. An arrow with a lower spine number is stiffer then an arrow with a higher spine number. 300 is stiffer then a 400 for example. If your buddy is shooting 200 spine arrows out of a 60lb bow, he's to stiff for his setup. As I stated on another thread somewheres, take your bow poundage and multiply it by 5. That's your lowest arrow grains that you want to shoot. I multiply by 5.5 just to be safe. My bow is set at 70lbs x 5.5 and you get 385. Use that as your base. On your arrow somewhere, it will tell you how many GPI (grains per inch) your arrow is. Mine are 29 1/8 long at 10gpi giving me 290. Add in a 100 gr tip/broadhead and I'm at 390. My lumenocks weigh 26 grains and fletched weigh around 5. That brings me to 421grains if my math is correct. Which is over my 385gr base. Make sense?

I'm thinking that, after referring to the PSE site, a 200 is less spine than a 300. there are some manufacturers that do use a reverse method but not PSE, at least in the xweaves. He is correct in using 300's for 70 lb draw weight.

[seanfalloy]

I haven't bought a new bow yet ( tomorow im buying a used PSE treestand GX ). I know alot of people with used bows as well as new bows. I dont need the "top of the line" speed that they boast every year so ill buy used ones at usually half the cost and still be very happy with it

The most important thing is that the bow "fits" you ( eg draw length, weight, balance ect... ) I would suggest going to an archery shop (not a big box sporting goods store) but a place where they live breath and shoot bows. They usually have good used deals as well as alot of information on form and little tips about things to watch out for that you will never get anywhere else. Personally I go to Boormans Archery in New West they know their stuff.

And dont ever be afraid to ask for tips.. Archers are generally quite friendly people