What is the best way to sight in your bow. I know setting the sights you fallow the arrow. What procrdure do you use and recamend.
HuntingBC Champ
What is the best way to sight in your bow. I know setting the sights you fallow the arrow. What procrdure do you use and recamend.
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Might not be "the" way to do it - but it works for me and for those that I have helped...
I start by looking at the whole sight housing and all the pins in it. I want the pins centered within the sight ring - not all bunched at the top or at the bottom - but equally spaced in the middle of the ring or housing.
I also check that all the pins are in line vertically, for windage. You don't want one pin sticking out beyond the rest, They all need to be perfectly in line.
If the bow is reasonably fast (say between 260 and 290 fps) I'll begin by shooting at 20 yards, using the top pin to aim at the bullseye. Once you've got that pin set, move back to 30 yards and shoot a couple with the next pin down.
As you said, you move the pin to where the arrow is hitting to correct any misses. It's pretty simple really, it just takes a bit of time.
Try to do the shooting on a calm day and on a level field, shooting uphill or downhill will alter your P.O.I., and of course a windy day will put your shots all over the map - especially when you get out to and beyond 30 yards.
Hope that helps you.
HuntingBC Champ
Thanks.
I have a little ten yard range right now set up in my basement. Going to practice there till the weather gets better. I have enough room to set up a 50 yard range out side.
My next question (just thought about it). My bow is set at 45#, so as I incress the poundage my point of impact should rise. So if my arrows are hitting 1 inch low at 45# then at 55# they should be on the bullseye(just an example).
It isn't quite that simple. The basic premise is correct, in that your P.O.I. will change upwardly, but you can't really rely on how much it will change in ratio to how much the poundage increases. For now (inside your basement) you can set a pin for the 10 yards you're shooting and practice your form until you can shoot outdoors.
Is there any reason why the poundage is set low? Why not start off at 50# or 55# (if you can't pull 60#) and leave it there? That's plenty for hunting and target shooting.
lot of places left to see
This seems to make sence. Just make sure your bow is set up right for you. If it isn't, like mine wasn't, it's hard to get a tight group. First set up bow for proper form, then sight in. Then shoot a tonne.
Originally Posted by hunter1947
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Burke , bring it to Salmon Arm on sunday and get you all dialed in
HuntingBC Champ
Is there any reason why the poundage is set low? Why not start off at 50# or 55# (if you can't pull 60#) and leave it there? That's plenty for hunting and target shooting.
I injured my shoulder about 4 years ago, starting out with the low poundage and will add as my shoulder will alow. I hope to be at 60#s by spring.
HuntingBC Champ
Originally Posted by Ruger4
Burke , bring it to Salmon Arm on sunday and get you all dialed in
You might just see me there.
Puttin Dinks in the Dirt
If you are consistantly shooting left or right, you might need to make a change to your rest. Ive also heard of sighting in a bow this way. Start at 7-8 yards, shoot your top pin and get it shooting bang on, move back to 20 and if you are off, move your rest. Repeat as necessary till everythign shoots straight. string, rest and sights all need to be lined up to keep consistant.
Ahh, well ignore my babble about starting out higher. I thought I might save you some re-sighting in the near future. Build up slow and steady. Don't re-injure yourself.
What you're describing, knockturnal, is called Walk Back Tuning. It works great for fine tuning your center shot.
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