Broadhead Point of Impact

[325 wsm]

I'm shooting Montec G5 125 grain broadheads and they consistently group 4 inches high and 4 inches left at 20 yds .At 30 yds they are 6 inches high and 6 inches left. This is compared to when shooting 125 gr target points. I have paper tuned my bow and my arrows are flying straight and spined correctly for the approx. 65 lb. pull I shoot. It was even more erratic before I went to quick spin vanes. Is this normal ....if not how can I make so they have the same POI
Thanks in advance 325 wsm

[Ambush]

It's your centre shot.
Move your arrow rest, in tiny increments, down and to the right. Do the light/right first and then the up/down. This is where micro adjust, on sights and rests, is so handy.
You will have to adjust your sights a little as well.
The best broad head shooters in the world will tell you that it's not always possible to have perfect, matching flight, but you can usually get very close. Bigger fixed blade heads are harder to tune. On the other hand, a bigger hole is a better hole.
Remember that any energy used to spin your arrow is a lose of speed. So, better to be tuned than spun faster to overcome bad flight.

I tried the 4" Quick Spins, but gave up on them because of the velocity drop. I now use Blazers, fletched helical. But I shoot the dreaded mechanicals.

[Bow Walker]

If you use a drop-away arrow rest - are your arrows at 90 degrees tot he string when the rest is in the up position? If not, I'd adjust the nocking point or the rest. I suspect the nocking point.

Are the ends of the arrow shafts square and true? If not the insert is sightly crooked and so is the point when screwed into the insert.

An Arrow Spinner/Inspector is cheap way to check. Pine Ridge makes a really good one, and, it's inexpensive to boot.




G-5 makes a tool called an ASD, or Arrow Squaring Device. I works for both aluminium and carbon (and wood).



These tools are worth the investment if you are into making your own arrows.

[Bowzone_Mikey]

weird ... Are you certain you are shooting 125s for both ... ... I am assuming that you feild points group like a Mo-Fo and that you have done walk back tuning and your center shot is dead on with Feild points ....

You say its all high and left at various yardages ... either you broad heads are lighter than you feild points (accounting for the High) and thus throwing your spine out out a bit making your arrows a bit stiff(accounting for the left) ...or ... your centershot is just off by a C-hair ... as Ambush stated above, Follow his advice ...or... as BW stated ... arrows not cut square, and/or inserts not true ...

there could be other factors as well ... but all things being equal I would weigh your heads and points first