Senior Member
I'm drawing about 31" right now, hoping to find a comfortable place back around 32" as you can really feel the speed build in the bow back there.
Actually I just went by Bucky's (where I buy my shafts) and he made me an offer on some discontinued shafts that I just couldn't pass up, a doz GT Ultralight series 22s. I can afford to munch 2 a day and still pay less then if I smack an Axis.
-Grant
HuntingBC Champ
Grant. Where do you anchor your shot? Typically, the standard anchor is to have your index finger (on the draw hand) touching the corner of your mouth, not where it is in the picture. That is where you will want to measure your draw length from and cut your arrows accordingly.
You are welcome to come over some time and fling a few at my home range.
"When you judge another you don't define them, you define yourself."
Senior Member
The Koreans shoot from an anchor much further back then even the turkish. I'm finding somewhere between the two, like behind my jawbone where I anchor a compound seems to work best.
The only real advantage to one of these little bows is being able to use a longer draw length and the greater speed it gives:
http://www.koreanarchery.org/index.p...d=47&Itemid=76
-Grant
Typically the Korean anchor is behind the ear (somewhere) and it is a floating anchor - in that it is not static against your head/jaw/ear.
Also note that the arrow is on the "wrong" side of the riser. This means that you have to support/cradle the arrow with your thumb, which is why many "horse bow" archers always use a glove when shooting.
A very difficult technique to learn, let alone master.
Senior Member
I've actually found that your bow hand thumb does little to hold the arrow once you start the draw. It's held lightly against the bow with the draw hand index finger, too much pressure will cause some funny arrow flight though.
This is really going to take years to master. Which is both fun and frustrating.
I don't think I'll be taking around the bag course until I get really consistent on my anchor, small draw length changes have a much larger effect on velocity/trajectory.
Oddly enough it sometimes puts and arrow exactly where I want it. Much more precisely then my longbow, but doing to same thing (or what feels like the same thing) again doesn't have the same effect. I also seem to be able to stack arrows in a different spot than I'm aiming.
So it's sometimes precise and sometimes accurate, but so far not both.
I've had some thumb pain so I'm leaving it alone for a little while and also making a better fitting ring.
-Grant
Grant, have you tried shooting without the thumb ring? Oops, when I go back and look at the pic (is that you, btw) I can see that the short A2A will not let you shoot with the traditional finger style.
Maybe a release? There's certainly enough tension on the string, and the serving looks like it'll take an "off-the-string" style of release aid.
Do you hold the arrow on the right or left side of the riser?
Senior Member
A release or fingers would sort of be besides the point.
Arrow goes on the right when using the ring, most of the time anyway. The paradox is opposite to using fingers so it only really works that way.
-Grant
Living the simple life
Your draw looks to be 3 to 4 inches too long
keeping life simple
That's the way those bows are meant to be shot.Originally Posted by triggr31
HuntingBC Champ
Friend of mine got something from Korea too. Said it itched like hell for about 3 weeks then it fell off.
It's only when you see a mosquito land on your testicles that you realize there are other ways to deal with problems than violence.
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