The Ole Copper vs. Lead Debate

[jesse]

So since I started shooting my Tikka T3x 30-06, I have been using Sako’s Super Hammerhead 180 gr. (a bonded soft point). The only reason I started on the Super Hammerhead was because I was told that factory load ammunition from Sako are what are tested in Tikka firearms.

Now, I am no ballistics expert and don’t purport to be, but I find that the Super Hammerhead 180 gr. bullet drop is quite significant past 200 yards (9.6 inch drop at 300 yards with a 200 Zero). Also I realize that the bullet drop is more significant because I am using a 180 gr. bullet, so maybe that is a moot point. Furthermore, I find it increasingly hard to get a hold of these bullets (mind you I know this is a general trend for all ammunition nowadays).

I have been looking at some other bullets, such as the Nosler Trophy Grade and Accubond as well as doing some research on copper bullets such as the Barnes TTSX and Hornady GMX. My question is what other people’s experiences are between lead vs. copper bullets. At the end of the day, I care about dropping an animal as quick as possible with maximum penetration, with less of a bullet drop a bonus (I'm not usually shooting big game past 300 yards anyways). Obviously I understand that there a ton of mitigating factors, but I was just wondering what people’s experiences with different factory loads are etc. Maybe it’s best to move-down bullet grain? Move to a copper bullet? A combination of both?

Let's hear what you are shooting, and what's your experience with such ammunition.

[Sharpish]

I use only Barnes. No spitting out lead fragments at the dinner table, always an exit wound, they are accurate and kill quickly.

[Hugh Mann]

Well, let's put it this way.
The cleanest kills I have ever seen or made have all been with mono bullets. I could not believe the trauma I saw on a whitetail after hitting it with a 6.5CM 120 Ttsx at 220m. Entry and exit looked the same, the entire inside of the hide on both sides was red jelly. Witnessed or been told about large bears dropped in their tracks by 308 monos. Minimal meat damage too. I would highly, highly recommend mono bullets to anyone.

[GreyDog]

Been shooting stuff with cup and core bullets for sixty years and will probably close out the show doing the same. Having said this, I also believe the Barnes bullets are an excellent choice for most hunting applications and, in the unlikely event that I run out of all the conventional bullets I have on the shelf, I'll give them a try. GD

[Weatherby Fan]

I find the best compromise for bullet weight in a 30-06 is the 165gr, the last elk I shot was with a 165gr Nosler Partition from a 30-06.......1 shot dead elk

I would check out the Nosler Trophy Grade 160gr AB or the Federal Terminal Ascent 155gr, Nosler Etips 168gr or Barnes ttsx 150/168gr

[Darksith]

So since I started shooting my Tikka T3x 30-06, I have been using Sako’s Super Hammerhead 180 gr. (a bonded soft point). The only reason I started on the Super Hammerhead was because I was told that factory load ammunition from Sako are what are tested in Tikka firearms.

Now, I am no ballistics expert and don’t purport to be, but I find that the Super Hammerhead 180 gr. bullet drop is quite significant past 200 yards (9.6 inch drop at 300 yards with a 200 Zero). Also I realize that the bullet drop is more significant because I am using a 180 gr. bullet, so maybe that is a moot point. Furthermore, I find it increasingly hard to get a hold of these bullets (mind you I know this is a general trend for all ammunition nowadays).

I have been looking at some other bullets, such as the Nosler Trophy Grade and Accubond as well as doing some research on copper bullets such as the Barnes TTSX and Hornady GMX. My question is what other people’s experiences are between lead vs. copper bullets. At the end of the day, I care about dropping an animal as quick as possible with maximum penetration, with less of a bullet drop a bonus (I'm not usually shooting big game past 300 yards anyways). Obviously I understand that there a ton of mitigating factors, but I was just wondering what people’s experiences with different factory loads are etc. Maybe it’s best to move-down bullet grain? Move to a copper bullet? A combination of both?

Let's hear what you are shooting, and what's your experience with such ammunition.

Bullet drop is just something you have to account for. Each bullet is going to have a different BDC and that combined with velocity will determine how much drop will occur. You're shooting a 06...its not the flat shooter but neither is the .308 and guys were winning 1000 yard shoots with that for a long time. It doesn't have anything to do with lead vs copper. I have several 06's...don't shoot a copper bullet out of it, it simply doesn't have the velocity to allow for proper expansion down range. Stick to lead core bullets that expand easily and stay within 400 yards or spend the time at the range to know your ballistics. Velocity is king and thats why you see a lot of guys shooting a .300wm, they think its the fastest round out there and they feel the need to compensate for something

[835]

Slowing bullet drop is done by speeding up bullets. Which is done by lightening up grain weights. Bullet drop can also be calculated

People who use monos tend to pic a " lighter than normal" weight to speed it up. This helps with tragectory as well as function. Speed helps them open.

What you are looking for, if i have it right is a lazer to 300 yards. I would drop your 180 to 165 or 150 Ttsx

[Darksith]

Slowing bullet drop is done by speeding up bullets. Which is done by lightening up grain weights. Bullet drop can also be calculated

People who use monos tend to pic a " lighter than normal" weight to speed it up. This helps with tragectory as well as function. Speed helps them open.

What you are looking for, if i have it right is a lazer to 300 yards. I would drop your 180 to 165 or 150 Ttsx

or by adding powder behind it. You still won't get a 165g bullet to push past 2800fps out of an 06. Which means past 300 yards you could be shedding 30% of your velocity easily, which will make a mono bullet ineffective and it will act like a FMJ. If your trying to break bones like in a bear shoulder then a mono bullet is decent, but if your trying to hit a moose past 400 yards you might regret not having the expansion to rattle around inside the vitals. granted a lung is a lung, but wierd things can happen and sometimes those lead core bullets make a mediocre shot a solid kill shot still

[GreyDog]

You can drive 180's to 2800 out of a 30/06. !65's can usually do 2900. If I was going to use a Barnes, it would be a 150 TTSX, started out at around 3050fps. This is also easily achievable with a 30/06. If you are using factory loads, they are what they are and going lighter is indeed the only way to go faster. Most '06 factory loads drive 180's around 2600-2650 and 165's to 2750. They are still effective on game. GD

[Fella]

I use the TTSX as well but you have to keep in mind there is a minimum speed they can’t drop below in order to expand properly. If you use them within their effective velocity they are awesome. I’ve killed deer and a elk with those bullets and they are devastating.