The worst part is when the frame is rotten and has to be replaced. Or the snow load has broken the frame in the roof. The way the thin ceiling plywood is attached to the frame rips it all to shreds. Then not only are you fixing the roof membrane, you are replacing the ceiling.
Would I do I again NO. I have done 2. 1 rotten and 1 snow load busted. The finished ceiling ply is expensive.
The challenge of retirement is how to spend time without spending money.
The worst day slinging lead is still better than the best day working.
Look around is there someone you can introduce to shooting because that’s the only way we will buck the anti gun trend sweeping Canada! "tigrr 2006"
I cut out and replaced a 5'x6' piece of the roof where the vent and a tv aerial mount were leaking. It was a lot of pop rivets and sealant to attach the repair. The best then you can do when you buy a trailer is take all the trim off, scrape all the cheap plumbers putty off and seal it with good silicon seal.
Damn I missed again.
Well silicon is likely better than that grey stuff, when they seal a million dollar motorhome , they use Pro-Flex. I've redone our travel trailer. After only a couple of years I found rot. And when I rebuilt a 18 year old camper for hunting.
The wife and I did the travel trailer in two weekends.
I have heard that Proflex is the 'go to' sealent... Over rated? Is it worth the premium?
Did some reading and many recommend Dicor self levelling sealant. Any experience?
I've used both as well as Siktaflex (sp) They are all poly urethane sealants . The Dicor self leveling is for roof repairs. On the camper , the fridge vent had leaked, I think it was Dicor, but it was 18 years old. So on the camper I redid all the roof vents with Dicor. I cut the nozzle back to 3/8" and really puddled it. For side wall trim I used Pro-Flex. It should outlast me.
OP, if you do have aluminum frame, then it's probably a doable job. Rip off old, replace roof and then seal it.
Digging into a wood frame camper is typically not worth the effort as far as I'm concerned. It can be done, but it's a pain. I did it twice, and both times it became apparent I was just kicking the problem down the road. Once RV's start to rot it's damn near impossible to stop it from spreading.
I can't believe RV's cost what they do considering the material and craftsmanship put into them.
I think they are designed to last as long as the payments. Why else would they use that butyl tape?