Srupp...Some suggestions and shared issues from what you described...
1. While I do order stuff from Togens I stopped ordering their tungsten beads. I find for the most part the hole sizes are way to varied and mostly on the too small size. I use 2x wire for most of my c-mids as I find the 1x just bend out too easy with fish. My fave hook is the 1120 Daiichi or the 1760 as described above. You can still obtain a very slim profile with a 2x wire and they will never bend or break. I order almost all of my beads from either canadian llama out of Kamloops or a seller out of Abbotsford on Ebay known as Hardy Deluxe. I have had zero issues with either, although Hardy Deluxe is cheaper and he often throws in free stuff. Both are very fast to ship out. I find the bead quality and color finish from both these places superior to togens. You will not have the problem that you are with the beads from these sellers. Check out the coffee colored beads from either, work very well. My formula is 3/32 on sz 12, 5/64 on sz 14, 5/64 on sz 16, and usually 5/64 on sz 18. I very rarely tie 20's but have about a half dozen in the box, usually something in green or a limey. If I am doing a pattern I tie at minimum 3 different sizes. usually 16-12. I do have some 10's and 8's but find in the cariboo that a 12 is about as big as the cmids get.
2. If using Togen hooks I had a batch where the shape of the hook made it difficult to get any bead on. I forget the model but they were a scud hook. I also found it very difficult to pinch the barb on them. As much as they are cheap I personally don't like the quality. Again llama and hardy deluxe have lots of hook options.
3. As for cutting asb I use one of these:
https://www.amazon.ca/Westcott-Titan.../dp/B00CQ43I0C
As asb is rather stiff to work with you want to get as narrow/straight as a profile as possible. Once you get the hang of it you will get a desired cut. I find if the asb is too wide of a profile it just builds up the body too much. Experiment with your underbodies, like buzzer wrap, green thread, blue thread, etc. Asb cmids were really the ticket for me last year. Just don't overlap the asb too much as you want it to have that dull chromy look with the underbody color coming through when changing angles. I find people get hung up on the usual chromies but if inspected carefully the chromie cmid often has an underbody color that if you can match appropriately will make you the envy of the lake! Obviously a throat pump is a must.
4. For wire options I use extra small gauge or flybox micro wire on all my cmids no matter the size. I find small to be to be too thick and stands out too much...just a me thing perhaps but a cmid rib does not protrude out. I will also use thread as a rib in sz 8/0 as it will blend in very well with the taper and body. 6-8 even spaced wraps and I like to add a couple wraps extra at the bottom for a bloody look (when using red).
5. I tie some with gills and some with none..just depends on what I am tying. My fave bead with gills is black nickel, almost all my hooks cmids with gills are black nickel beads. Antron or uni stretch can be used..although I prefer uni stretch. White beads will often imitate a gill or sometimes a white bead will work better.
6. Not sure what you are coating your cmids with. I used to primarily use Sally Hansen nail polish but found over time it would crack and the cmid would not last all that long. I have switched to uv resin and use bug bond or solarez. Get a good uv torch to cure the resin!. I find it gives the cmid a very nice glass look and it will last a very long time. It will sometimes darken the fly but I have found it makes it look better in most cases.
7. Get some ideas from Youtube on patterns. BC Fly guys, interior fly fishing, John Kent, Chan/Rowley all have clips available.
I am sure you might know a lot of what I typed out but just my 2 cents for things that work for me! Fishing them is a different story...its not just watching a bobber imo.