A Veil 1x42 belt sander and check out Lee Valley for both the sander and belts. It's both cheap and cool grinding.
A Veil 1x42 belt sander and check out Lee Valley for both the sander and belts. It's both cheap and cool grinding.
Here is the link to the one I have. The second stage is actually a steel. It works very well IMHO. Sharpen most of the hunting knives for my partners these days, and all seem rather pleased with the results:
https://chefschoice.com/product/chef...ion-model-130/
I highly recommend finishing with the ceramic rods. They true up the edge as good as a strop IMO.
Cheers,
Nog
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVNNhzkJ-UU&feature=related
Egotistical, Self Centered, Son of a Bitch Killer that Doesn't Play Well With Others.
Guess he got to Know me
I find it easy to get a very sharp edge,you’ll get a rounded edge I find that you can shave hair with.... be careful with the coarse belt ... better to start with the medium belt then onto the fine... continued use with the fine belt ( with a drop of oil )will turn it into a kinda of leather texture and if you stay on top of it you’ll have a sharp knife ,and have had all the other hand sharpeners. Lansky ... Gatco ...Various stones and rod sharpeners .... to me the Worksharp works fast and as you get the hang of using it I doubt you’ll go back to anything else.
Last edited by Ferenc; 11-19-2018 at 03:24 PM.
Knife sharpening is one of the hardest things I've tried to learn and I am convinced most people struggle with it as well. A hair-popping, paper-slicing scary sharp blade is really hard to get. The Ken Onion works to produce a very sharp convex blade, but you have to carefully match the angle on the grinder with the angle of your blade and be sure to sharpen both sides equally (same angle, same time of stroke, same number of strokes, same pressure) or you will end up with a barbed edge that feels really sharp if you rub your thumb against it but the other side of the blade will be rounded and dull.
Is Justin Competent, or just incompetent?
Knife sharpening is easy, you only need 1000grit sharp, it's just flesh you are cutting. I work for 10,000grit sharp with my planes and chisels. Some steel can't be sharpened , early stainless steel was bad for that. Some steels are so hard as to be very time consuming requiring a soft stone so as to get fresh edges. But they will hold an edge. Any damm way to abrade steel.
Albravo2 , that's a burr or a rolled edge depending on how bad it is. You will get that even with hand sharpeners if you spend too much time on one side.
If you make your own paper wheel, I recommend Tormek PA-70 polishing paste.:https://bigbeartools.com/store/Honing-Compound-p8470497
I tried the MDF wheel. It is only as good as the guy holding the knife.
As 270 says, too much time on one side creates a burr. Time per side has to create a near perfect, equal edge, just like the angle of the hone has to be just right (and equal on both sides) or you are making your blade more dull.
Every video I've ever watched of somebody using some redneck sharpening system to sharpen a knife like a scalpel has involved a sharpener that REALLY knew what he was doing. I watched one where the guy used the top of a car window as a stone to create a wicked sharp blade.
Sharpening is a skill, independent of the method used to sharpen.
Is Justin Competent, or just incompetent?
Nothing like a 250, 800 and 1200 sharpening stones and a piece of leather for stropping for sharpening your tools. Sharpening by hand it is not difficult at all, but if you are intimidated by it ... buy a knife sharpening guide.
I picked up the Worksharp Field Guide sharpener to use in the field after seeing/hearing MANY rave reviews. Picked it up after I did two deer this year, so haven't had a chance to use it yet...but will report back when it gets put to the test.