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Thread: Suffield Alberta - The Prairie Elk Experience

  1. #1
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    Cool Suffield Alberta - The Prairie Elk Experience

    Been struggling with this one for a spell so it's taken a while to get my mind wrapped around just how this report should proceed...
    This will not be like most of the hunting reports I have filed, although there will be some of that. Going to be lengthy, and towards the end likely controversial for some. That said, bear with me as I relate the situation as best I am able...

    Background

    Established in 1941, Canadian Forces Base Suffield is the largest Canadian Forces Base and the largest military training base in the commonwealth.
    It encompasses 1,040 square miles of chiefly prairie habitat - grasslands, rolling hills and river breaks along the South Saskatchewan River. It is widely recognized as one of the largest contiguous blocks of natural prairie grassland in the world, a final remnant of North America's Northern Great Plains.
    In 2003 177 square miles along the River were designated as the Suffield National Wildlife Area.




    When the base was fenced, it "captured" herds of wild horses termed Mustangs within it's confines.
    These horses did extremely well, foraging on the rich native grasses and a near complete lack of predators.



    It was their success that eventually lead to their undoing. Upon the recommendation of an Advisory Committee, convened by the Base Commander at the time to review the relationship between the horses and the natural environment, the 1,200+ horses were rounded up and removed from the base completely.

    From the early '60's to the early '80's various forms of grazing leases were let within the base to local cattle producers. In 1982 the last of those leases expired, and the program discontinued citing a 1977 AF&W report that grazing on C.F.B. Suffield had negatively affected vegetation and species dependent on the same..

    It was soon recognized that the grassland ecosystem was now being negatively effected by the lack of grazing animals, a factor well recognized as playing a vital role in grassland ecosystem maintenance. The American Bison (Buffalo) that once dominated the area were not considered a viable option to fill that role. So, in 1997 and 1998 a total of ~ 220 Elk were transplanted to Suffield from Elk Island National Park.



    The introduced Elk started off with superior genetics, and soon made themselves right at home on the vast grasslands now available to them.
    With the rich forage, and lack of predators, their population literally exploded from that initial 220 in 1998 to an estimated 7,000 in 2015. A 3,200 % increase in just 17 years.

    When the elk were originally introduced, local area ranchers operating adjacent to the base were told the herd would be managed so as not to exceed management's understanding of full carrying capacity - 800 Elk.
    No attempts were made regarding active "management" in the years that followed, and with the hugely increasing numbers, conflicts began to arise between the Elk and ranchers / farmers outside the base. As the Elk numbers grew, these conflicts increased almost exponentially as the elk expanded "their" range to encompass the surrounding areas.

    Under increasing pressure from those negatively effected by the elk, consideration now (finally) had to be given towards methods of actually managing the elk towards realistic numbers that the area could support. The concept of a huge round-up, and subsequent mass slaughter as proposed by some local ranchers was quickly dismissed. The next to be considered was capturing and relocating large numbers of the elk to various places within Alberta to either bolster depleted populations, or initiate new ones. This was dismissed by management (a HUGE mistake in this author's opinion) based upon the extremely remote possibility of disease introduction / broadcasting to the areas of introduction (despite the Fact that not a SINGLE incident of CWD, Tuberculosis or Brucellosis had EVER been recorded in any Suffield elk).

    Thus the decision was eventually made in 2012 to allow hunting inside the base. A First Time Ever event that in itself was the subject of controversy.
    Of much greater controversy was the way the hunts were stratified. Initially First Nations were directly invited to participate, with the expectation they would hunt for subsistence, and equally target cows and bulls. The hunts also allowed for non-aboriginal participation - Limited Draw required, and COW ONLY.
    Frustration and resentment were soon forthcoming among Alberta's non-aboriginal hunting community, and it appeared to be with good reason. In their initial hunts, First Nations showed a decided preference for the larger mature bulls over the cows, taking 469 bulls vs 151 cows. It became readily apparent that many viewed these as exclusive Trophy Hunts rather than subsistence meat gathering events.

    Despite the numbers hunting removed, the recruitment rate among the elk remained substantial, in fact surpassing the number killed by hunters for the next few years. Increases in numbers of on-base tags were supplemented with an increase in the number of tags let outside the base over time.

    Again finally, in 2015 changes were made to the hunt stratification which would allow non-aboriginal hunters access to bull tags...
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVNNhzkJ-UU&feature=related

    Egotistical, Self Centered, Son of a Bitch Killer that Doesn't Play Well With Others.

    Guess he got to Know me

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  3. #2
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    Arrow Re: Suffield Alberta - The Prairie Elk Experience

    Against this backdrop, and knowing the area and it's elk, the decision was made to enter the draw for Suffield Bull Elk for the 2015 hunts. Being only a Priority 3, I realized the odds were likely long, but with the prospect of hunting the base itself, it was a no-brainer to enter...
    We did not draw our first request (first hunt) nor our second (first hunt in January 2016) but did manage to draw on our third: the second hunt of January 2016.

    The Scouting Run

    Through the fall our Crew scrutinized the ongoing hunts there in as great as detail as possible. What we were hearing was downright discouraging (more on this later) but we managed to keep our spirits high, and looked greatly forward to the opportunity we were being afforded.

    I visited an area adjacent to the base and managed to be successful on a Fine Muley Buck with my bow.
    That also allowed me a good glimpse at what was occurring off the base (FN and LEH Hunting) and see a handful of rather tremendous bulls those hunts had taken.
    Also got the odd glimpse inside the base, where in some places the elk trails looked like cattle had been run there for 1,000+ years!!



    Also on that run we saw several Great Bulls that really helped to keep the enthusiasm high for the impeding hunt!!

    The last days of hunting here on the Island passed into memory, and I held tight to the thought that my season wasn't over quite yet!
    Lots of calls, lots of discussions, pouring over every little bit of intel I could gather kept me focused on the happenings a Province away until the day I could wander back there...

    Deciding to make the journey in a couple of hops, my regular Island Hunting Partner and I departed home a full 3 days early, and overnighted with a Great Friend in Vancouver we hadn't had the pleasure of visiting with for far too long. Despite the excellent camaraderie and visit, we were up and away well before the first greying of the morning sky.

    The highway was fine, and the miles literally flew by. Before we knew it we were topping out on the continental divide, and sliding downhill eastwards into Alberta. Although we had planned on an evening stop in Calgary, we decided to forgo that and make the final miles to Medicine Hat in one push. Again the weather cooperated with that mission, and we arrived to hearty grins & firm handshakes all round in the mid-evening.

    There is a reason I plan these trips with the Buddy whose place we landed at so as to arrive a tad early. True to form, we "celebrated" well into the wee hours of the next morn (as I simply knew we would) requiring the next day to be a write-off spent recovering! Well worth it every time, and this instance was no different! The tales of Glory (and some not so glorious) kept all entertained, laughing and grinning the whole while. And it was much to my satisfaction that my two hunting buddies - one from BC, the other from Alberta - got along as famously as they did! In fact I do recall thinking that together they might well prove Dangerous to my health!! LOL!

    One of the topics of discussion that night and the next day was the long snow machine run our Alberta Buddy had made - pretty well the entire river adjacent to the base the very day before we arrived. That report wasn't all that "pretty" as far as our aspirations were concerned. Despite temperatures below minus 20, the big river had yet to freeze solid enough to allow an elk to cross (a positive thing in many aspects). But even with fresh snow, the sign and sightings for his run were worse than dismal. Extremely few tracks, and a total of 3 bulls sighted being the only elk he wandered across in that full day run. The only thing that held our spirits up at that point was the somewhat dubious conclusion that "all the elk must still be up deeper on the base...".

    Following the recovery day, and a day before our hunt would commence, we rose before dawn, and set off for a full day's scout of the entire base perimeter.
    A skiff of new snow topped the 4 or so inches already down as we made our approach. Spotting scopes, Binoc's and telescope in hand, we set out to see whatever we could for sign of our quarry...

    The run across the southern boundary produced a couple far off sightings of cows & calves, but little of interest beyond that.
    Making our way northwards along the western boundary was much of the same until we neared the northern boundary intersection.
    Topping a small hill, there was a little herd of elk, and in it the first bull we would see this trip:



    Sure, just a spikey, but a bull nonetheless!

    Their initial reaction appeared to be confusion, but it certainly did not take long before they firmly engaged the afterburners!!



    No other encounters were realized as we turned now to the east, and wandered our way along the northern base boundary.
    However it was but a short time after that turn when we ran into the first of a great many antelope herds we would bump into in the next coming days:



    Although most had shed their horns (the only critter that does that with this type of horn) it was readily apparent that many we saw during this trip would be True Trophy Material. These were outside the base, but soon ducked back inside upon our appearance. Likely that protected area is the reason we saw as many Good Ones as we did methinks...

    Also extremely interesting to be seeking hard for elk in the same areas frequented by these little Speedy Goats!
    Our BC Buddy was entirely fascinated by this, exclaiming Now I understand why you guys shoot such long range rifles, and get so damn good with them! aYup!
    ...
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVNNhzkJ-UU&feature=related

    Egotistical, Self Centered, Son of a Bitch Killer that Doesn't Play Well With Others.

    Guess he got to Know me

  4. #3
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    Arrow Re: Suffield Alberta - The Prairie Elk Experience

    To this point we had seen but little sign of anything beyond Mulies and Antelope wandering off the base. A small herd of perhaps a dozen had wandered westwards just before the herd the spike was in, and to this point, that was it.
    So, when we topped another herd and found a significant crossing - fence completely down and tracks of 40+ elk - we got a little more excited. Unfortunately they were at least a day or two old, and going away from the base. But hey! More signs! They still exist!!

    That was to be it for signs and sightings until we crossed the river.
    Doing that on the highway, we soon wandered back to the river breaks across from the eastern boundary of the base.
    Stopping to take peeks from every available high spot, we checked out numerous Muiles along our way:



    Some had asked on various forums why we did not get out and hunt on foot much. Were these river breaks to be open, we certainly would have!





    But alas, those on this side of the river are either outside the base, or in an area they did not open for us. And on the other side, the Wildlife Sanctuary encompasses all but the flat in the above picture. In that picture, you can see the wide open low flat that is on the base - the only section of river bank not inside the NWR. Walking across such flats, anything certainly sticks out like a sore thumb!! The hills behind - closed of course.

    Continued...
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVNNhzkJ-UU&feature=related

    Egotistical, Self Centered, Son of a Bitch Killer that Doesn't Play Well With Others.

    Guess he got to Know me

  5. #4
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    Re: Suffield Alberta - The Prairie Elk Experience

    Oh shiiiiit another good thread!

  6. #5
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    Arrow Re: Suffield Alberta - The Prairie Elk Experience

    The base does not allow any pictures to be taken while there. We stuck to that religiously, but here is one I sniped off the net. Don't know if it is actually on the base or not, but certainly looks extremely similar to the central portion there. Again, a great indication why a hiking style hunt would largely be a Fool's Effort in most areas:



    Our Scouting Run continued, making stops whenever we could see across into the base, and perhaps see a glimpse of an elk or two...





    And as we wandered south, finally... SUCCESS!!



    You can't make them out in the above picture, but there is ~ 125 elk in there. Scattered over the mid and tops of those far off bluffs.
    And... ALL Bulls! The Bachelor Herd.
    ...
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVNNhzkJ-UU&feature=related

    Egotistical, Self Centered, Son of a Bitch Killer that Doesn't Play Well With Others.

    Guess he got to Know me

  7. #6
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    Arrow Re: Suffield Alberta - The Prairie Elk Experience

    Scrambling to set up our most powerful optics, we zoomed in for a bit of a closer look:





    Excuse the poor quality, this was the first time I have ever tried to take a picture through a bloody telescope! LOL!



    Although we well recognized that herd was within the National Wildlife Sanctuary, our spirits literally SOARED!
    Target Found, Identified, and exact position Plotted! Mission Successful!!!

    We spent a considerable time drooling of course before once again pointing southwards.
    With no other sightings forthcoming, we eventually broke off to visit with a couple area Ranchers where we checked the zero on my rifles (no change) and shared some tall tales with long term Buddies. All noted there were damn near no elk in their areas this winter, with only the odd smaller herd passing through.
    Meant little to us at that point - we now KNEW where the ones we wished to concentrate on were. And we meant fully to do just that the following morning...

    Continued...
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVNNhzkJ-UU&feature=related

    Egotistical, Self Centered, Son of a Bitch Killer that Doesn't Play Well With Others.

    Guess he got to Know me

  8. #7
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    Cool Re: Suffield Alberta - The Prairie Elk Experience

    That same evening, several folks that had been in previous hunts wandered by to have a chat .
    Some expressed encouragement, some helped define strategies, and some were downright full of discouragement.
    Nonetheless, we hashed out The Plan for the following morning - one which I felt was sound and worthy of pursuit.

    Before I get into the "Hunt" itself, I should explain just a little of the background of The Players:

    Myself - semi-retired Biologist with over 4 decades of hunting experience ranging from pretty well all of Western North America, the Arctic, Africa etc.
    Well experienced on elk, having taken 28 before this hunt. A few of those were "fence-line hunts" adjacent to National Parks or otherwise closed areas - similar to what we now were staring down. Practiced Long Range Prairie Shooter.
    Noted among our Crew as the best judge of "score on the hoof" and efficient at spotting game at distance.

    Alberta Partner - Long Term Professional Guide / Outfitter.
    Experience world-wide, and very much so in wide open prairie style hunts.
    Excellent Spotter, even better Strategist.
    One of the Toughest Men I know, and one of the Best Friends I've ever had.

    BC Partner - Wildlife Monitor by trade of late. Very Well Experienced. Not much in the way of elk experience (yet - we're working on that) but a Very Good Sheep Killer. Great eyes for game. Incredible Enthusiasm, Good Head on his shoulders, and another I'd trust my Life to in a heartbeat.

    My Alberta Partner's Lady drew the same tag, same time. I will never understand why he engaged another guide to take her out for the hunt, and chose to accompany me instead (my Lady would KILL me!!). Thankful he did though, and the strategy of two trucks working together made very sound sense.

    At the end of the day, we had put on over 700 kilometers on my BC partners Toyota (Damn Tough & Capable Rig!!). Damn thankful fuel was running around 72 cents a liter! The chattering fringe were booted out early so we could supposedly get "a good night's sleep".

    In my case that wasn't about to happen. After seeing the Big Boys - visions of what if and unbridled Anticipation ran so strongly through my mind sleep was a physical impossibility. Somehow managed to drift off just as I heard someone else start the coffee makings for the day about to unfold...

    Apologies to the reader - at this point I am once again more than Bagged, and have a requirement to make supper for my late working Lady.
    Tomorrow, as is the case at this point in the tale, the "Hunt" commences...

    Cheers,
    Nog
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVNNhzkJ-UU&feature=related

    Egotistical, Self Centered, Son of a Bitch Killer that Doesn't Play Well With Others.

    Guess he got to Know me

  9. #8
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    Re: Suffield Alberta - The Prairie Elk Experience

    Hmmm extremely well done Matt..looking forward to the good..the bad ....and the ugly..
    Cheers Bro

    Steven

  10. #9
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    Re: Suffield Alberta - The Prairie Elk Experience

    epic thread...you rock

  11. #10
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    Re: Suffield Alberta - The Prairie Elk Experience

    awesome stuff Matt

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