new recurve tuning issue

[greybark]

Good morning buddyrip , one of the reasons I recommened at least 45 lb limbs was the tuning nightmare of proper spine problems . Spine tables are fine but do not take in account of extreme sideways string travel during finger release at low poundage . Bigger hands , poor or release varience encourages more sideways string travel at release . Use feathers and remove vane contact , one less thing to worry about .
Cheers

[OutsyderBC]

Good morning buddyrip , one of the reasons I recommened at least 45 lb limbs was the tuning nightmare of proper spine problems . Spine tables are fine but do not take in account of extreme sideways string travel during finger release at low poundage . Bigger hands , poor or release varience encourages more sideways string travel at release . Use feathers and remove vane contact , one less thing to worry about .
Cheers

Right to a point, heavier bows and/or longer draws are way easier to work with, no doubt.

There is much choice for arrows in the 500 and up range too which works for this too which also helps and often eases the finances too without dropping too much $$ on the lighter spined (target specific) shafts. But now there are a few choices, reasonably priced down to 800 spine so you can get what you need without having massively heavy points and those rainbow trajectories.

Over length arrows works sometimes and also helps with aiming.

There is also little point in trying for perfection in your tuning until you have decent consistency especially on the release.

For the longest time I was on .400's and 125gr+standard 21gr inserts up front, shooting full length with a 29.5" draw - slightly weak (good. the weight of the feathers and wraps stiffens them).

I also worked with .500's and 100gr+standard 21gr inserts, full length and there were much weaker (not good)

My target arrows for the 2016 season are full length 500's with 80gr glue in field points and they are like lasers!

Like uncle Ken says, charts etc are a good starting point but you only really know by doing it and I have tuned all my bows over the years and you do get some odd results that should not work which is not surprising if you factor in bow speeds/centre cuts/shelf vs rest etc, etc, etc.

[buddyrip]

Since my last post I have made some changes. I put 3 1/2" feathers ( got them cheap) on my 500 spine full length arrows and changed to shooting off the shelf, 1/8" furniture felt on shelf and some tape with a matchstick on the side. Nock height at 1/4" with bare shaft was getting a nice arrow but with feathers it was bouncing of the shelf. I contacted the local shooting club and they do an 18 meter indoor target twice a week so I joined them on saturday, very casual group shooting 300 rounds and a couple of good old OLY shooters. Well I surprised myself by consistently hitting the target with some three arrow groups all in the yellow, this was with 40 lb limbs and no sight. At an hour and half of shooting I got tired and my groups started to spread. I will be back but with my 30 lb limbs. In all of this I have been trying alot of different things and reading alot of posts. I'm beginning to feel and see what happens to the arrow when I torque or move my bow arm or when I have a poor release by plucking or poor anchor as well as what I did right when I had a bullseye bullit. I now have the 30 lb limbs on and have two 600 spine arrows to play with, one bare shaft and one feather. They seem to be flying well with 100gr. or 125 gr, tips. I just now have my shooting set up in the basement at 17 meters thu a doorway and into the storage room. Hope the wife approves! Anyway, picked up some indoor targets and shot my second ever 300 round, at only 17 meters thou, and scored 227. Am waiting for some more 600 spine arrows so I can continue to shoot with this group and this setup during winter. First 3D shoot for me will be in penticton in late february, maybe see you there. I'll be toting my new stick.