The Code Red is my favourite rest. Consider yourself lucky that you only have to contend with up and down. You must be well tuned otherwise.
Good luck and patience.
The Code Red is my favourite rest. Consider yourself lucky that you only have to contend with up and down. You must be well tuned otherwise.
Good luck and patience.
I harvest carrots. I kill animals.
Broadhead tuning......a good read. http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1606741
I have learned silence from the talkative, toleration from the intolerant, and kindness from the unkind; yet strange, I am ungrateful to those teachers.
More then likely they are just going to shoot higher and re-adjust your sights. As soon as you add blades up front all bets are off and are not likely to hit the same spot, especially the faster the arrows are travelling. I use mechanicals for that reason and speed is an issue for me with normal broad heads.
Definitely weigh them and you might find that your field points or broad heads may not be the weight you thought they were.
How fast are the arrows?
Not sure why broadheads are hitting higher than target points because with my experiences a fixed broadhead will drag and hit lower than field points. If you are shooting consistent groups, getting good arrow flight and not getting any left or right plaining from your broadheads I would be doing back flips. Sounds like you are tuned in pretty good if you are only hitting high at one range. I would be tempted to adjust my sight pins which are concerned and leave it at that for a bit and see if any thing else developes.
A fixed blade broadhead acts much like extra fletching on the front of your arrow steering it much more than field points do. So if your arrow leaves your bow with the broadhead left and nock right then it takes a lot more time for the fletchings to correct the arrow flight than if it was just a field point on it and you would in turn show broadheads hitting left of field points. Same can be said if you are hitting high or low with broad heads. If your arrow is leaving slightly nock low it will show with your broadheads hitting high. By moving your rest down slightly you are actually moving your nock point up as well.
The other thing with that bow is that it is a binary cam system and the 2 cams are slaved together. If you don't have the cams timed properly then you can actually rotate 1 cam slightly more than the other cam which actually can move your nock point slightly causing nock high or low tears.
A Pine needle falls. An Eagle sees it. A Deer hears it. A Bear smells it
Good point Shooter, if the arrows are nock low on release they might not recover in time when they hit at 25 yards but can correct at longer ranges. I guess paper tuning might be in order. I would think if the arrow was nock low and showing 3 inches high at 25 yards you would see bad arrow flight but maybe not with a faster bow.
To have broad heads shoot the same as field points can be frustrating indeed. If the broad heads fly straight and group well then move your sights accordingly.
90 yards? Really?
I can't imagine shooting anything out to 90 yards. Try aiming lower! LOL!!
First off you need a 20 yard pin set that first and work up from there, to a maximum of 60 yards please!!!! Broadheads HAVE to be "tuned"
I did find with the montec that I gain elevation with them as well, I switched to Grim Reaper 100 grains and it the first broad head I can honestly say
you screw them on and your ready to rock!
Don't worry about a pandemic, stupidity is spreading way faster
Exactly, broadheads need to be tuned. Just because your field points hit where you want, doesn't mean your broadheads will. Broadheads will magnify any issues, be it the rest, arrow spine, arrow wobble, or shooter's form. Paper tune, then broad head tune. Mechanicals are a quick fix, and many go that route. If you want to shoot fixed broadheads, you may have to broadhead tune. Two out of my three bows, shot slick tricks with my field points, right after being tuned by my local archery shop. The third bow had to be broadhead tuned. Please read the link in post #12. A good read, with pictures, showing how easy it is to broadhead tune.
I have learned silence from the talkative, toleration from the intolerant, and kindness from the unkind; yet strange, I am ungrateful to those teachers.
A good test to see if your broad heads are tuned well is to start at 10 yards and slowly move back while using the 10 yard pin. As you move back, if the broad heads are tuned right, the arrows should fall in a straight line below your target. If there is much wander to the right or left then more tuning is required.