Sight Advice

[pupper]

right now i shoot with a G-5 LE 5 pins sight and it is set up for field points. I love the sight but it is expensive so I dont know if I should buy another one for hunting. Let me know what you would do...

[Bow Walker]

What broadheads are you going to use? I don't see why you have to either re-adjust or buy another sight. I use the same sight for both 3D and hunting.

I shoot Razorcaps, Slick Tricks, or American Broadheads...all of which are easily tunable.

The broadheads nowadays all usually fly right with your field points - so one sight is perfect.

[J_T]

If you are a hunter, my opinion is you should shoot 3D with your hunting gear. Throw away 3 of 4 pins. Use one and use good judgement. Sorry, don't mean to cast my opinion to far, just that I see some guys shoot 3D with a very different setup than for hunting, and not all of them practise with their hunting set up which might cause grief later. IMHO

[swamper]

I use my same sight, Cobra Sidewinder, for both 3-d and hunting. All it takes is a bit of minor adjustment, not always necessary, and you are ready to go. I use G-5 Montecs and they seem to fly pretty much the same as my field points.
My setup is an AR34, set at 64#, Cavelier Drop-away, Pick-a-peep, and a True Fire release. I use Goldtip 5575's with 100 gr. tips, or broadheads, and the bow is doing 263 fsp.
And as Pupper knows, I can usually put the arrow where I want it to go.

[pupper]

yah exactly, I want my hunting set up to be the same as 3d but when i screw on the montecs, my arrows shoot a little bit lower even though i use 100gr field points and 100 grain broadheads. most people have told me as well that they shoot broadheads out of there bow a little different. as for razor caps I had nothing but trouble with them, could not get them to fly striaght.

So if i am shooting a little different w. broadheads does it make sense to get another site I can swap with instead of fiddling with pins week to week.

[swamper]

The easiest way is to use a sight box that has marked increments. Then all you have to do is change from one known setup to the other.

[pupper]

Yah i was just thinking about that. I have those incriment marks on my site and I could just mark where the site box should be for feild tips and where it should be for broadheads. That would only work if all the pins need to be lowered equally which I think is the case.

here is the link to what my site looks like if any wants to see:

http://g5outdoors.com/#sec_optixle

[bochunk2000]

I used to adjust for Braod heads or field point depending on the time of year. When I was sighted in for Broad heads I would compensate on 3D for any difference. I have found now with my new set up I have both shooting the same and find no need to switch back and forth.
Steve.

[interceptor]

You should be able to tune your setup so that both field points and broad heads have the same point of impact. It can be a real pain in the a$$ to get right but it is well worth the effort.

You need to start with both arrow setups as similar as you can make them ie: same weight, spine, same weight field tip and broad head etc.

At your first pin distance say, 20 mtrs try and shoot as good a group as you can with three field tip arrows (use a fresh target with out holes), now remove your 3 arrows.

After a brief rest (you need to be shooting at your best so take your time) shoot three broad head arrows at the exact same spot on the target.

Now you should have 2 distinct points of impact, lets say that the field tips landed dead on the spot and the BH arrows grouped 50mm low and 50mm to the right.

This is where it gets interesting. you need to make very small adjustments to your rest, the idea is to steer the BH arrows towards the point of impact of the Field Points. To do this you would raise the rest, only by a couple of millimetres (this takes care of the height) now also move the rest to the left, only a millimetre or 2.

Now do the same 3 shot groups, don't woory about where the two groups are in relation to the spot on the target as you rectify this by adjusting the sights when you are finished. Now you should have your BH and FP groups closer together, sometimes it comes good in one go other times you have to play around for quite a while. The end result is very impressive as you will find that you will get excellent arrow flight and you will also get excellent groups with your broadheads.

I will go through my info when I get home in the morning and try and post some pics of the way this works.

It sounds complicated but if you take your time and think about each step before you do it you will find that it is not too bad.

Let me know how you go.

Cheers Noel

[Bow Walker]

yah exactly, I want my hunting set up to be the same as 3d but when i screw on the montecs, my arrows shoot a little bit lower even though i use 100gr field points and 100 grain broadheads. most people have told me as well that they shoot broadheads out of there bow a little different. as for razor caps I had nothing but trouble with them, could not get them to fly striaght.

So if i am shooting a little different w. broadheads does it make sense to get another site I can swap with instead of fiddling with pins week to week.

Do you guys spin test your points? Both broadhead and field? It makes a heckova difference.

There are quite a few things that impact arrow flight - I'm only talking about the arrow here.

Are your shafts cut square on both ends? Do your inserts sit flush? Are the insert ends square?

If everything is not inline how can the arrow fly straight and true? Finally, spin test each arrow so that there is no wobble at all.

I do this and my broadheads and field tips are flying the same. I don't mean in the same hole - I mean they fly straight enough to hit within a 5 inch circle at 40 yards........the rest is up to the shooter.