How far to pull the bow back?

[Bow Walker]

I'm going to wait for you to answer jesse's questions before I post my comments.

[4ptbuck]

It looks like you're overdrawing. The green module is the draw stop isn't it?

[Bigbear]

I think Draw Lenght Is the Big Thing. You should be able to pull to the Hard wall and be At your comfortable Draw Length and anchor point . To long a draw length you can't get a proper Anchor Point. you will find your self moving your release hand around trying to get a solid anchor position. If it is to short You Might get a good anchor point, But your bow arm will have to great a bend. Also if it is to short, your bow arm will be ok , but your release hand will to far forward. It boils down to A slight bend in your Bow Arm, Anchor point the same position every time. an example for an anchor point might be along the jaw. Have fun and dont get frustrated.

[dan_plus_o]

so is the first pic as soon as the cam rolls over??and if so, it then gets easier(letoff) and then you pull to the wall??so when it hits the wall, is that where you stop pulling or are you continuing to pull past the initial wall???? these alpine bows tend to have a long cushy valley, not a dead stop wall like some of the other bows out there.as chris said bows that have a peg draw stop that contacts the limb, makes it better to pull hard to the wall. i dont believe your bow has that and just looking at the pic you may be over drawing the bow abit. just my opinion though. another little tip, try relaxing your grip hand a little try shooting a bit with a relaxed open grip, feels kinda weird to begin with but trust your sling. after you shoot keep that hand open, and keep the bow up until you hit the target. dont get into the habit of dropping you arm as soon as the shot goes off. have fun and enjoy your new obsession

The First and Third pic are right when the cam rolls over. The second and fourth pic are me drawing the bow back farther. I'm not sure what you mean by THE WALL, but as I said before I can continue to draw the bow back after the cam rolls over. Has anyone downloaded the video clip of me drawing the bow back? You can see how much more the cam rotates after the cam rolls over.


I usaly do shot with my hand open but I wasn't shooting then. Just taking some picture out on the deck.

It looks like you're overdrawing. The green module is the draw stop isn't it?

The green module doesn't touch anything. Is the draw stop suposed to touch somthing so the bow is not able to be drawn back anymore?

So should I set up my draw length so my anchor point is right when the cam turns over?

[willyqbc]

Dan...the green portion of the cam acts as the draw stop by having the track contact the string as it rolls over. If the track (groove) contacts the string flush, you are where you need to be.....if it pushes the string enough to bend away from you then you are overrotating. (I hope I explained that clearly) Ideally your draw length should get the cam into this position while being comfortable for you.

Chris

[Bow Walker]

I got this link from Alpine's website. Go to page 6, it shows DL adjustment on different cams. Hope yours is in there.

http://www.alpinearchery.com/downloads.html

The "wall" is at the back of the "valley" of the cam. When your cam rolls over into the letoff - that's the valley. When your cam is finished rolling over and stops - that's the wall. Some walls are soft some are hard. some valleys are shallow (short) some are deep (long).

[dan_plus_o]

Okay, I get it now. So I am suposed to stop at the wall, but the bow can still be drawn back farther then the wall (when the green module pushes on the cable). Is it an easy thing to notice if the green module is pushing on the cable? Will I have to get someone else to look at it, or will I be able to see it when I draw the bow?

So I want to set it so the cam stops right when the green module touches the cable. And a good anchor point would be when the arrow nock is right under the shooters eye, right?

I got this link from Alpine's website. Go to page 6, it shows DL adjustment on different cams. Hope yours is in there.

Yes its in there. Its the one at the bottom of page 6. That just shows how to adjust the draw length, which I already know how to do.

[jessbennett]

so yes in pics 2 and 4 the cam is over rotated.... you can see it. notice how the string is not sitting flush on the green???

[jessbennett]

i dont know about others, but for me a perfect feeling draw length is when my string just touches the tip of my nose and my nock is just at the corner of my mouth. for me anyways. each person is different. some use a kisser button to help with anchor points also

[Bow Walker]

i dont know about others, but for me a perfect feeling draw length is when my string just touches the tip of my nose and my nock is just at the corner of my mouth. for me anyways. each person is different. some use a kisser button to help with anchor points also

Good anchor points jess, seems very repeatable for you. Daw length is something that is very personal. It depends so much on several different variables.

Variables such as anchor points, arm length, and bow A-2-A among others. Axle to axle length dictates the string angle at full draw, which will either let the string just touch you or (on shorter bows) the string will be as much as an inch in front of your nose.

Mine is a 33" A-2-A and the string is about a half inch from my nose, I have to physically lean my head forward a bit to touch the string - but the important thing is that it is in line with my nose.

My new bow (a Diamond Liberty) gives me a solid back wall, which I can pull into and hold against. Many other bows have soft back walls, which are difficult to hold against. For instance my Martin has a mushy back wall.

So many variables.........