Arrow Building for the Do-It-Yourselfer

This is sort of a continuation of the 3 page thread "Arrows - Build vs Buy" that was started by Franko Manini.............

This has to do with actually fletching your own arrows. This also assumes that you have a fletching jig and
are conversant with using it - translation = you have read and understand the instructions:smile:

BASIC FLETCH GLUING GUIDE FOR CARBON SHAFTS

by; Bow Walker (Dan)8-)

Start by removing the old or damaged fletching. Use a fletch removal tool or a utility knife for this step. Be VERY careful not to cut into the arrow shaft itself, as this will weaken the area.

Remove all the old glue. This step is critical, so make sure you get it all off. Many use very fine grit sandpaper for this step – whatever works for you.

Clean the end of the shaft with denatured alcohol. Don’t use “Rubbing Alcohol” as this will leave a tiny oil film on the shaft, which does not promote proper glue adhesion. Wipe clean with a lint free clean cloth. Do not touch the end with you fingers from this point on, as the oils in your fingertips can (and will) inhibit adhesion.

If you are fletching more than just one vane – do all the vanes up to this point and set each one aside as you proceed with the next one. Many people will use a thick piece of styrofoam and insert the shafts point first to let them dry properly. Keep these ready-to-fletch shafts away from your work area so as not to get them dirty or dusty.

At this point many people will again scuff the end of the shaft with a very fine grit sand paper. They do not clean the grit off before gluing. It is believed that the grit acts as a sort of gravel to your cement (glue) and thereby enhancing the adhesion of the vane to the shaft. Sounds OK to me – but I have not tried this method. I am in the habit of wiping the arrow after scuffing, as in step 4, and letting it dry. After the shaft is dry – insert it in to the fletching jig.

Do not touch the base of the vane with your fingers – remember the oils. Insert your vane (I like 2” Blazers with my broadheads and Mini-Blazers foe field points) into the fletching clamp so that you can glue it in the desired spot on the shaft. After checking placement, put a small bead of glue down the center of the vane. It is easy to use too much glue at this point, but resist the urge. The bead will spread out to the edges of the vane base.

Lay the clamp onto the magnet of the jig and slide it carefully down to the arrow shaft. Apply a small amount of pressure to ensure a total vane length fit and leave it alone for a few minutes so that it can set.

After a few minutes, remove the clamp and turn the nock receiver to the next vane placement point. Repeat steps 6 thru 8 until your arrow is fully fletched.

Remove the fletched arrow from the jig and apple a small dab of glue to the front and back ends of the vane base. This will help prevent the vane from tearing off during a pass-thru of either target or animal.

Place each completed arrow point down in the foam and allow to dry thoroughly.