Skull Work

Didn't rightfully know just which category to put this one in? But since it's rather picture heavy, figured here is as good as any...

My Partner and I have accumulated a fair pile of head bones over the years, and with no steelhead in the river to entertain us, decided to finally get around to cleaning a few up...

There are several way to do this of course. Taxidermist is the easiest, but little entertainment value in that for us. Dermestid Beetles are the general preferred route, but neither of us want the hassle (and smell) that goes hand in hand with them. So, we settled on the scrape, simmer, scrape, degrease and whitening process.

Two ways to prep the skull. Easiest is to simply bury the bugger in the yard where your mutt won't dig it up, and fetch it out a few months or so later. The bugs will take care of a LOT of the prep for you. Only caution here is you may have to look hard to find a few teeth should they fall out.

Here's a medium sized Black Bear just out of the ground:

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Sku...irt_Bear_1.jpg

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Sku...irt_Bear_2.jpg

The other was is to cut as much of the meat and cartilage off as you can:

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Sku.../Buffalo_1.jpg

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Sku.../Buffalo_2.jpg

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Sku.../Buffalo_3.jpg

Continued...

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Sku.../Buffalo_4.jpg

Still a fair way to go with the ol' Buffalo, but he needs to thaw a little more before that can happen.

We wash the dirt skulls carefully, and then treat them much the same as the the skinned ones.

Into the big Stainless pot overnight:

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Sku...mer_Tank_1.jpg

Couple Blacktail skulls peaking out of that. We NEVER allow the water to boil, simply get fairly warm and maintain that overnight. Next day, the nitty-gritty stuff starts:

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Sku.../Working_1.jpg

That's a Dall Ram almost ready for the next step, and a non-typical Blacktail my Partner is working on. Carefully remove all the bits that ain't bone. Time consuming and picky work, but eventually worth it.

Then it's back to the simmer pot for another over-nighter. We add a good amount of dish detergent and replace the water at this point to help get rid of some of the grease:

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Sku...mer_Tank_2.jpg

After another cleaning session the next day (spoons, knives, picks and hard-bristle brushes) we let them dry out overnight before degreasing.

To degrease, we put the skulls inside a tough garbage bag, add sufficient sudsy ammonia so that when the bagged skull is lowered in a tub full of water the ammonia drowns the entire skull.

Here's a Polar Bear and a Black Bear in the de-greasing tub:

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Sku...e_Grease_1.jpg

That process can take a couple or even three days before all the grease is out. Ammonia doesn't seem to affect the bones at all, so we've been erring on the side of longer to ensure all the grease is gone. With very oily skulls (Polar Bears!!) we had to change the ammonia a few times for it to do it's job.

Continued...

After de-greasing is complete, we wash the skulls thoroughly with sudsy water & rinse well. Then let them dry once again before going into the whitening tank.

The most common method is to immerse the skull in hydrogen peroxide for this step, and something we have done a fair amount of. But with so many projects, the associated cost was starting to be noticeable, so we are experimenting with non-chlorinated swimming pool Shock Treatment. And once again we use the bag method and submerge in a tank of water.

Here's the elk waiting for the whitening:

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Skull-Work/Elk_1.jpg

And now bagged with the shock treatment to whiten up:

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Sku..._Whitening.jpg

That process can take up to a couple days before it is satisfactory...

Continued...

We only currently have one skull that has basically finished whitening at this point (with several more on the go).

Here's what the Big Polar Bear looking like before the process - the end result of sitting 20 years in the shed:

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Sku...lar_Bear_1.jpg

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Sku...lar_Bear_2.jpg

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Sku...lar_Bear_3.jpg

And what he looked like yesterday having the whitening agent scrubbed away:

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Sku...lar_Bear_4.jpg

Coming along nicely!!

This was a HUGE Old Boar with many cracked / broken teeth and battle scars all over. He will certainly be a pleasant addition to my cave soon!!

Continued...

Couple more of the impending projects:

Fallow Deer & last year's bow Muley:

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Sku...nd_Muley_2.jpg

SlobberNose:

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Skull-Work/Moose_1.jpg

I have gained a fair amount of knowledge of the process from a site someone posted here not too long ago: http://www.taxidermy.net/forum/index.php
Very Useful! :wink:

Some folks like to put a sealant on the finished skull, but I don't know if we'll bother. Jury is still out on that one, so if any of the Pro's can lend some advise, (goes for the whole process as described btw) it would certainly be Right Appreciated!! :-D

I'll update this as we go along so you can see how the finished products turn out...

Cheers,
Nog

looks great. Thanks for the details

Thanks for the tips Iron Noggin, looks great!

Polar Bear 1 is ready for final drying then assembly. Here he is sitting on top of a full sized Rubbermaid Roughneck container:

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Sku...lar_Bear_5.jpg

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Sku...lar_Bear_6.jpg

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Sku...lar_Bear_7.jpg

This is one HUGE Bear! In fact, the largest I saw the entire time we lived in the Arctic. I do have the rest of the teeth, although many are cracked or broken due to the rigors of getting as old as this one did. Will post a couple more once he has been finalized...

Cheers,
Nog

Nice work, looks good!

Handful of the deer are now ready for de-greasing. Just got to get the rest out of their way! http://bigshotsbc.ca/images/smilies/biggrin-new.png

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Skull-Work/Deer_1.jpg

From left to right: Blacktail, Fallow, Bow Muley, Non-Typical Blacktail, Muzzleloader Whitetail.

And on it goes... http://bigshotsbc.ca/images/smilies/cool-new.png

Cheers,
Nog

Hey Nog,
how do you guys deal with the nazal cavities? I have done quite a few skulls but in a much more rudimentary fashion and usually just let the "stuff" up the nose dry out until it stops stinkin'. Also wondering why you dont boil the water, I have always just boiled for about 1-1/2 hours then scraped. I also boil with baking soda in the water, supposedly helps with whitening...?... I have never done the complete process with degreasing and whitening so mine are definitely a bit yellowish but still a good alternative to a $700 head mount! Btw, that polar bear is awesome!
JP

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jim Prawn

Hey Nog,
how do you guys deal with the nazal cavities? I have done quite a few skulls but in a much more rudimentary fashion and usually just let the "stuff" up the nose dry out until it stops stinkin'. Also wondering why you dont boil the water, I have always just boiled for about 1-1/2 hours then scraped. I also boil with baking soda in the water, supposedly helps with whitening...?... I have never done the complete process with degreasing and whitening so mine are definitely a bit yellowish but still a good alternative to a $700 head mount! Btw, that polar bear is awesome!
JP

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Boiling can cause the bones to warp, especially if the connective tissue between the bones is removed from over-cooking. Keep the water at a simmer. It will take a couple more hours to get the job done, but with more consistent results. Plus simmering for longer will help remove the tissues within the nasal cavity.

Just take a few more hours to degrease and whiten if you desire, but do each step separately. Remove tissue, degrease, then whiten. It takes me about 4 hours of actual working time over a couple of days to clean a skull, the rest is letting the pot and solutions do their job.

I use a bit of Soda Ash to help disolve the tissue and degrease, 30% Peroxide to whiten. Costs me about $10 a skull including the gas for the burner....

very cool

can you explain your cleaning process in a step by step process including any and all chemicals you use.

Cool, thx for the pics and info. Looking foreward to seeing the finished skull pics

Great thread very helpful. Thanks!

Thanks a bunch Nog! Yours look way better than my first attempt, so now I have something to improve upon next year.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jim Prawn

Hey Nog,
how do you guys deal with the nazal cavities?

---

As WB suggested, the slow simmer pretty much melts that stuff away over the course of a couple days. We then use stainless picks and forceps to get the last remaining bits out, and a blast of medium pressure water to finish it.

WISH I could get it down to what he suggested though: "takes me about 4 hours of actual working time over a couple of days to clean a skull"... :mrgreen:
We've got a LOT more time that that into each one, but as I said, this is very much a Learning Curve at this point. Eventually we hope to get faster / better...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kgs

... can you explain your cleaning process in a step by step process including any and all chemicals you use.

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Kind of thought I'd done that :confused:

Toss skull in warm water and simmer for a day.
Knife, spoon, picks and stiff bristle brushes to remove what ain't bone.
Back into the simmer pot for another day - water and dish soap.
Another pick & clean job.
Dry for a day or so.
Into Sudsy Ammonia (available at most grocers) for 1 to 3 days.
Rinse well with water and scrub off any surface oil remaining.
Dry for a day.
Into hydrogen peroxide (35% or greater) for 1 to 3 days.
Rinse well again.
Let dry for several days.
Assemble & Mount.

Cheers,
Nog

Sometimes even polar bears get cold in the winter....
http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6ef6c6c7.jpg

LOL!

http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6ef6c6c7.jpg

Likely the Warmest That particular Beast has been in a Very Long Time!! In fact he is still "sweating" at that point!!! :tongue:

Methinks you might have missed the KerFuffle when I was leaving this afternoon...
That Big Ugly which put the run on me the other day was coming for a visit.
Seems while he ain't to worried about me, Boogs put The Fear Of God into him! :twisted:
Now dealing with the rope burns... :wink:

Cheers,
Nog

wow great work

I learned over on the taxidermist site of a sealant called "paraloid b-72" that is mixed with acetone. Dunk the skulls in this and they are permanently sealed to the elements, yet look as if no sealant was ever applied. Looking into this stuff now, and will letcha know how it may work...

In the meantime, the experiments continue...

Polar Bear 1 should be assembled later today or tomorrow - will post a picture once that's accomplished.

Many more on the go:

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Skull-Work/collage.jpg

The sheep & the one whitetail are ready for whitening.

Despite more than 6 days in the pool Shock Treatment (through which we added several containers of the stuff to bring the concentrate up) the elk shows very little progress in the whitening results:

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Skull-Work/Elk_2.jpg

It is now our assumption that this stuff does not work nearly as well as hydrogen peroxide for our purposes. Oh well, lesson learned... Didn't hurt the skull, just ate a little time is all.
So it will be back to the drawing board, and down Island to the supplier of the hydrogen peroxide in the next little while.

Further note on that... One has to be a tad careful what you're mixing!
One of the bags full of hydrogen peroxide ruptured in the tub we were using for whitening. No Worries we thought, and simply removed the skulls, and poured the contents into the water batch surrounding that - effectively diluting the hydrogen peroxide but figuring it might have enough strength left to finish off a bear or two. A small amount of ammonia had also leaked into this brine (unbeknown to us). When we realized the Pool Shock was not too likely to do the job we intended for it, we had about 1/4 of a jug of the stuff left. Why not simply add it to this brine the bears are in - might bump up the strength just a tad we thought. So, I did just that.

The result was an Instantaneous Foaming Madness! I quickly slammed the lid down on the bubbling brew, and stood well back, wondering just what kind of concoction I may have created!

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Skull-Work/Foamy.jpg

We decided to let that sit and die down. Kind of wondering what effect the brew will have on the two skulls swimming in it.
Guess we'll find out a little later today... http://www.taxidermy.net/forum/Smile...lt/shocked.gif

Final Entry for today - an initial shot of the whitetail we named The Hitler Buck before the work commences...

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Sku...ler_Buck_1.jpg

And on it goes...

Cheers,
Nog

I've done a couple skulls myself, but mostly small carnivores and bears which are pretty easy. I've tried simmering my moose skull from last fall, but I can't get the enough heat on the top of the head, which can't be submerged in the water. I've tried covering the pot with tin foil in an effort to steam the meat, but it doesn't seem to help much. Any tips you might have?

Also, do you remove the sheep horns before boiling? If so what's the best method for this?

Thanks and great work!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zubris21

I've done a couple skulls myself, but mostly small carnivores and bears which are pretty easy. I've tried simmering my moose skull from last fall, but I can't get the enough heat on the top of the head, which can't be submerged in the water. I've tried covering the pot with tin foil in an effort to steam the meat, but it doesn't seem to help much. Any tips you might have?

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We have the same issue at this point. Even with a cut-down 45 gallon drum, the top of the moose's skull stays out of the water. To solve this, simply toss a towel over the exposed part of the skull with the ends trailing down into the simmer water. That will wick the hot water up and over the part that wants to act like a periscope. We're doing just that now... Will take a picture of what I am saying later today...

Quote:

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Also, do you remove the sheep horns before boiling? If so what's the best method for this?

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Yes. The horns of sheep, antelope, goats, buffalo etc must be removed before you start the simmer process.

For the sheep, we held them out at arms length, eye height off the floor (plywood in this case) and dropped them so they impact in the same place as if the sheep was bonking head's with another sheep. Had to do this several times in the case of the larger Dall. Can also take a rubber mallet and give the horn a few whacks around the base to loosen them. Their skulls and horns are pretty damn tough, and are built to withstand this type of punishment.

BTW, I would not advise "boiling" as it tends to soften the bones right up. We simply get the water rather warm and maintain that over a period of time (usually 1 day, clean, and repeat for another day).

Hope that helps...

Cheers,
Nog

Quote:

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Originally Posted by IronNoggin

Even with a cut-down 45 gallon drum, the top of the moose's skull stays out of the water. To solve this, simply toss a towel over the exposed part of the skull with the ends trailing down into the simmer water. That will wick the hot water up and over the part that wants to act like a periscope. We're doing just that now...

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Here's the related picture:

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Skull-Work/Moose_2.jpg

The wicking works as described. Will take another picture once it is clean...

Cheers,
Nog

Noggin,

Try using Soda Ash with the inintial simmer. Soda ash helps remove the flesh and fat, literally dissolving it. This might even eliminate one of your steps, as the soda ash will degrease a skull.


Why are you using a bag? I just put the skulls right into a pot with the solution. I only use stainless pots, to avoid rust coloring the skull. Stainless basins can be found cheaply at metal recyclers or used restaurant equiptment suppliers.

Are you using the peroxide undiluted? I use about a cup of peroxide (30%) to a gallon of water. Adjusting how you use the peroxide might save some $.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by IronNoggin

Here's the related picture:

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Skull-Work/Moose_2.jpg

The wicking works as described. Will take another picture once it is clean...

Cheers,
Nog

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That looks like a much better method than trying to steam if it as I was doing. So you described how you get your sheep horns off, what about goats? I'm sure you don't use the same methods as with the sheep!

Walking Buffalo: Great tip on the soda ash! We will definitely have to try that one out! But... Where does one acquire this stuff?

We use the bags to keep the amount of solution we use down to a dull roar. The surrounding water compresses the solution into the bag wrapped skull, and we use a LOT less of whatever it is we're soaking it in.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zubris21

So you described how you get your sheep horns off, what about goats? I'm sure you don't use the same methods as with the sheep!

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Don't really know just how to deal with a goat. We've only tried one, and all I can pass along from that is DO NOT get those horns wet!

Progress has slowed a little while we get around to procuring more hydrogen peroxide.

That said, the Dall Sheep is looking Pretty Good even without the whitening:

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Sku...Dall_Sheep.jpg

And the Polar bear is looking Right Fine these days now that he has all of his broken cavity filled teeth back in place:

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Sku...lar_Bear_8.jpg

Will eventually post one more of him. Just waiting for the beluga whale vertebrae to finish de-greasing to get the mount right...

Cheers,
Nog

Looks great!

I get Soda ash (NAOH, also called Caustic Soda) from http://www.aaasupplyhouse.com/ in Calgary. Your local taxidermist or taxidermy supply should have it, or try at Water Conditioning suppliers or even Homehardware and such.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Walking Buffalo

I get Soda ash (NAOH, also called Caustic Soda) from http://www.aaasupplyhouse.com/ in Calgary. Your local taxidermist or taxidermy supply should have it, or try at Water Conditioning suppliers or even Homehardware and such.

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Just a bit of a Head's Up: Apparently this stuff can be somewhat tricky to work with. Asked about it on the Taxidermist forum, and one of the Pro's came back with the following:

"Soda ash/washing soda/sal soda .. all the same thing and it will destroy the bone you are working with. It can work but more often will ruin what you are working with. The amounts to use are very touchy and just a little bit too much or the temperature to high or too long using this stuff will damage bone beyond repair. With the unique things you are working with, I would very much avoid it."

As much as I do like the idea, i guess we'll stick with what we know for now...

Cheers,
Nog

I started to use Soda ash without any instructions and have now cleaned over 100 deer, bear, elk, moose, bison, antelope, sheep, wolf cougar and bird skulls using it without ever having a problem.

Just practice on something common, like ancient Polar bear skulls. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Walking Buffalo

I started to use Soda ash without any instructions and have now cleaned over 100 deer, bear, elk, moose, bison, antelope, sheep, wolf cougar and bird skulls using it without ever having a problem.

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I don't think the fellow was saying It Can't Be Done, just that a LOT of Caution was required.
From your experiences, I do still believe it is something I will eventually look into... But with something as you suggest: "common".

Certainly Not one that can't easily be replaced if things went south...

Cheers,
Nog

Last update for a spell... Headed off to the briney fairly shortly now, and of course all else gets to wait...

Polar Bear # 1 is finished as far as the skull goes. Turned out pretty good IMHO:

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Iro...lar_Bear_9.jpg

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Iro...ar_Bear_10.jpg

http://gallery.fishbc.com/albums/Iro...ar_Bear_11.jpg

You can see from the number of cracked and broken teeth and the majority not having much (if any) enamel left, this Old Bugger was approaching the end of the line. Was a Giant in his time though.

Have an interesting idea for the right mount to put him on, and will post once I get around to that...

Cheers,
Nog

Hey Nog,
any new advice on the process since last posting? I have a beauty moose skull in the pot as we speak with a little baking soda just simmering away. So far planning to follow your previous instructions unless you've made any new discoveries! If I can make it pretty enough the missus says she might even let me put it over the fireplace!
JP

Nothing new yet Jim. Like to see the picture of it over the bed! :lol:

Cheers,
Nog

Quote:

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Originally Posted by IronNoggin

Nothing new yet Jim. Like to see the picture of it over the bed! :lol:

Cheers,
Nog

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Well not meaning to take mister Srupp's quote ......... but HMMMMMMMMMMmmmmmmmm picture of what over he bed ! I'm sure pics and stories will be coming soon !

Looks like brothers in the cups again....
once I get done scraping the meat off this bloody moose head I'll get some pics going.
JP

Moose in progress;

http://www.huntingbc.ca/photos/data/500/mooseb.JPG?2823

http://www.huntingbc.ca/photos/data/500/moosed.JPG

http://www.huntingbc.ca/photos/data/500/moosec.JPG

http://www.huntingbc.ca/photos/data/500/moosea.JPG

Hmmm wondering what your neighbors are saying..lol..looking forward to the finished results.
Great thred Matt thanks .
Cheers
Srupp

Quote:

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Originally Posted by srupp

Hmmm wondering what your neighbors are saying..lol..looking forward to the finished results.
Great thred Matt thanks .
Cheers
Srupp

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haha funny you should say that... Neighbour knocked on the door about 1:30 the other night; "ummm, do you know you left a pot of something on in the back yard..??" Lol.
JP