Arrow Building 101

Been wanting to build your own arrows? Wondering what equipment you'll need, or have to buy? Maybe I can help.

Equipment necessary to build a complete arrow;

not really necessary - as you could buy pre-cut shafts, but if you're a purist you'll want/need...
1. An arrow shaft cut-off saw. There are quite a few on the market these days - ranging from about $100 to upwards of $400. I recently came across a nice cut-off saw that didn't "cost the earth". It is a Weston saw. It starts at $91.00 USD for a 5000 rpm saw (minimum rpm recommended for cutting carbon shafts), and then there is an 8,000 rpm saw for $99.00 USD. I recommend getting the 8,000 rpm saw - much better cutting.http://www.bowhunterssuperstore.com/...p-1870867.html

2. A G5 Arrow Squaring Device (A.S.D.) $38.00 USD http://www.bowhunterssuperstore.com/...-c-68_390.html. This handy little tool is indispensable for the 'arrow builder'. It works for both Carbon and Aluminum shafts.

3. An arrow Inspector/Spinner. $24.00 USD http://www.bowhunterssuperstore.com/...c-341_441.html Utterly necessary tool for aligning broadheads and for checking on arrow straightness.

4. Fletching of your choice - whether it is feathers or plastic vanes - get what you want. Personally I use 2" Blazer vanes ($12.40 USD per 100) on both my hunting and my target arrows. I have yet to be disappointed with them.

5. Fletching Glue. There are many different brands and types available to choose from. Instant set, 24-hour set, gels, liquids, on and on. I personally believe that - providing the prep work is done correctly - almost any brand will do the job for you. I have had good results with AAE's FastSet Gel and would recommend it if asked. Fletching glues range from $4.00 USD per 3/4 oz tube to almost $10.00 per tube.

6. Fletching Jig. Again, there are many brands to choose from - single fletch (on at a time) models, 3-fletch models (a complete arrow at a time), multi-fletcher jigs, metal and/or plastic jigs, and so on. They start at $24.00 USD and can go as high as $75.00 USD just for the single-fletch jigs. I think that each and every jig does the job - it's just a matter of getting to know how it works. One of the easiest fletching jigs has to be the Arizona Rim Co. EZ-Fletch tool $40.00 USD. http://www.bowhunterssuperstore.com/...-c-43_171.html
It produces a complete arrow just about every 5 - 8 minutes.

7. An Arrow Insert Removal Tool. $5.00 USD http://www.bowhunterssuperstore.com/...c-68_1919.html Indispensable for gluing inserts into the shafts. Best $5.00 you are likely to spend on archery tools.

8. Arrow Shafts. Too many to talk about so I'll assume you've got a dozen that you like. Personally I use Gold Tip shafts - exclusively. They can be had for $51.00 USD per dozen.

Shop supplies that you will also need;
De-natured alcohol for cleaning the shafts - available at any drug store
Q-tip applicators
Cleaning rags or paper towels

All of the above tools and supplies can be had for less than $300.00

Now that you've got you tools and supplies...........AND you have set them up and are familiar with their use and/or operation.....

Start by deciding what arrow shaft length you are wanting. When i build arrows I measure the shaft only - and then add the components afterwards. So when I say my shafts are cut too 26.75" I mean just the shaft only.

My shaft is the GT 5575 Expedition Hunter, which is 32" long. My preferred length of shaft is 26.75", which leaves 5.25" to be cut off.

I take that 5.25" measurement and cut 2" from the nock end of the shaft and the other 3.25" from the tip end of the shaft. This makes that cheap shaft much more straighter than the advertised specs of +/- .006" straightness. In fact it brings that cheap shaft ($51.00/doz) inline with the specs of the more expensive ($100.00) Pro Hunter shaft that advertises a straightness of +/- .001" Not bad, eh? Cutting form both ends of the shaft also balances out any "weight-forward" aspects of some other shafts, keeping that advantage intact.

Take your G5 ASD and use it to ensure that the cut ends of the shaft are square. Now clean the insides of the cut ends with Q-tips soaked in the de-natured alcohol and allow to dry thoroughly.

Take your insert removal tool and screw the insert onto it. Apply a bit of glue onto the insert on opposite sides. While shiving the insert into the tip end of the shaft - rotate it 360 degrees to spread the glue evenly inside the shaft. Pull it back out and re-install - using that same twisting motion to spread the glue around the inside of the shaft. If you are using a fast setting glue you can unscrew the insert from the tool right away and then wipe any excess glue from the outside of the insert and the shaft before it sets. At this point I set the shaft aside - insert end down - and allow the glue to cure for 24 hours. This allows any vapours to escape from the nock end of the shaft tube.

After the insert is glued in, use your ASD on the aluminum insert end to make sure it is square. The ASD comes with a switchable end for carbon and aluminum shafts. Use the aluminum shaft blade to square the inserts to the shaft.

Now you can install your nock and proceed to the fletching jig. Since I use a bushing and a pin nock system I will glue my bushings into the shafts and allow them to dry (nock end down) for another 24 hours before going to the fletching stage.

Buff up the nock end of your shafts for the length that your fletching will come in contact with the shaft. Use a very fine grit emery paper for this step and the clean the area with alcohol - allow to dry.

Install your arrow shaft into your fletching jig and make sure it is held securely with no chance of wiggling around during the fetching process. Place your fletch into the jig clamp and see how it fits against your bare shaft. check for alignment and fit. Everything OK? Now apply a bead of glue to the base of the fletch and "clamp" it into place. Allow at least 3 - 5 minutes for the glue to set before removing the fletching clamp. Put a small bead of glue on the leading edge of your fletching - this helps keep the fletching in place when you have "pass-thrus" or bury your arrow on targets.

Set the completed arrows aside for 24 hours to let the glue cure/set properly. Now you're ready to put a point on the arrow and spin test it for straightness. Put the arrow onto the spinner and give it a good spin. There should be no discernible wobble in either the tip end or the nock end of your arrow. Some shafts are just not straight - no matter what you do. It is rare, but it does happen. Either cut cut the shaft down for a kid's use or discard the shaft. There's nothing that can be done.

Have I forgotten anything?

Very helpful post. Thanks! As a new archer considering building my own arrows, I'm very appreciative of the time you spent to put this together.

I agree, thanks to Bow Walker for the info. I bought most of the equipment suggested including the Weston arrow saw. The switch crapped out after about 6 arrows though. Rats. To their credit, they very promptly sent me a new motor and switch. I have had some issues with my inserts pulling out of the arrow shafts, I used some cold cure epoxy I had kicking around.... didn't work well. Recently I used a newer batch of system 3 ( I think) epoxy that so far works fine. What glues do the more informed used for gluing inserts?
Alan

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Originally Posted by AlanF

What glues do the more informed used for gluing inserts? Alan

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For carbon shafts use Twenty Four hour, two part epoxy. Clean the inside of the shaft with 99% isopropol alcohol on a Q-Tip and wipe the insert with the alcohol as well.

For aluminum shafts use hot melt glue.

I typically use the Easton HIT epoxy that comes with many shafts ... Dealers typically dont use the little packets of it so i scoop them up for the 15-20 or so doz arrows I do a year.

I have used this on the alum shafts as well as the carbon shafts ... havent lost a tip yet

I used to use hot melt ... but its difficult to find the right stuff ... alot of it once cured becomes brittle and breaks away easy ... usually after a good impact you will loose your tip ... so you want a glue with some flex once cured.

Wow.... 15-20 doz arrows per year!! Do you go through that many arrows a year or do you build em for other people? I figured I was all set making myself an even dozen. Anyway, thanks all for the info, it seems that the slow set 2 part epoxy is a good choice for this task. Does anyone worryabout the epoxy flowing (gravity) to one side when the glue sets up? Maybe I should place them vertically instead of horizontal when the insert glue is kicking off.
Alan

I just use a ca glue that I also use for my fusion vanes. I've had good luck with gorilla glue version. The super glue formula not the original polyurethane type. Sets in minutes and I've also never lost a tip with broad heads or into hundreds (some years thousands) of shots into 3d targets every season.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AlanF

Wow.... 15-20 doz arrows per year!! Do you go through that many arrows a year or do you build em for other people? I figured I was all set making myself an even dozen. Anyway, thanks all for the info, it seems that the slow set 2 part epoxy is a good choice for this task. Does anyone worryabout the epoxy flowing (gravity) to one side when the glue sets up? Maybe I should place them vertically instead of horizontal when the insert glue is kicking off.
Alan

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Depending on what i am doing ... I have been known to go through 5 doz arrows personally in a year ... i typically build a doz or more/month for people ... Not including my daughters 2 or 3 doz per year that she goes through

I set the arrows point down when i glue in the points/inserts ... I have a shoe box with 18 arrow holes in it ... I have also been known to use a milk create to hold arrows vertically.

Reality is ... if you glue running then you have used too much .. and be sure to give it a twist as you are installing them you might get a build up outside the shaft just wipe it off ... this is a good thing since you want the tolorance to be pretty tight between insert/point and the shaft